Old House Foundation Repair Cost

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   Limestone foundation: is it worth the cost of finishing the basement?
   I have a 90+ year old house with crumbly, limestone foundation. The unfinished basement only leaks in extreme weather (once/year, just enough to stain the floor, but not puddle). I’d like to reclaim some square footage by turning the space into an office/living area. What moisture factors should I be aware of? How can I minimize the threat of water damage? Would finishing the attic be a better idea?

   Thanks in advance.

   • ANSWER:
     An important factor here is your outside drainage. Another no so important is basement ceiling height (your home’s age usually indicates a lower ceiling).

     Hopefully your drainage is such that it can be easily cleaned or updated. If part of the basement is above ground, that is you live on a hill, then you are home free. That is the best way to fix your moisture problem and because this would be a necessary fix to your home anyway, this could be considered a non cost to your project.

     Ceiling height is important for comfort, air quality and resale value. If your ceiling is lower than eight feet, consider “digging down”. Look at costs and feasibility. This would also be a repair needed regardless of the finishing.

     My preference would be to finish the basement and would do so unless either of these improvements show to be cost prohibitive.

2. QUESTION:
   How much would it cost to fix my house?
   My house is pretty old, about 107 years old. The house is a decent size; three bedrooms, living room, kitchen, and a bathroom. The only bad thing is there isn’t central heating and cooling so it gets pretty hot in the summer and super cold in the winter.

   This is what needs to be fixed; windows (8), the whole bathroom (shower, toilet, sink), plumbing in the kitchen and bathroom, electrical wiring, floors, and possibly foundation.

   My questions is, is it possible to fix each room separetly while still living in the house? If so, how much would it cost roughly?

   Thanks!

   • ANSWER:
     Yes you can do each room separately, and you really will need to get a builder’s quote to get an accurate estimate.

     But to give you an idea, we live in a 99 year old house that was in desperate need of renovations when we bought it, it cost us about 60K to fix it. That included cladding and insulation, repairing the roof, building a proper shed, re stumping, new walls etc

3. QUESTION:
   Home owners, what small details should I look for when selecting a home to buy?
   The home inspector should find any major structural faults. But I was wondering what little things I might over look. For example, I rented an old house, that had very few electrical outlets, most of them with out the third prong. That is on my list to avoid with a purchase.
   Are there any little details that you have come across that I might not think to check for?

   • ANSWER:
     Geeez, I could write a book on this question!!

     Along with what the other have suggested…

     Check the slope of the house for drainage. If/when it rains, water should flow away from the house and have somewhere to go. Make sure the house has gutters and the downspouts lead away from the house, and the water doesn’t just dump out at the foundation.

     Look to see how the previous owners have maintained the house. If there are a lot of little things that need repair, chances are good that a lot of big things need repair. Also try to determine if improvements and repairs were done with quality parts and supplies, or if a lot of corners were cut.

     In many cities it’s common for the seller to include a home warranty with the house. Don’t let that cause a false sense of security. Frequently they don’t cover a lot of things and that it can be hard to file a claim against the policy.

     Keep in mind the age of the house and the age of the major systems in it. When was the water heater last replaced? Dishwasher?Furnace? Air conditioning system? Water heaters and dishwashers last about 7 years and will cost 0+ each to purchase and install. Furnaces and air conditioning systems last about 15 years, depending on use. I *think* those are easily 00+ each to purchase and install. Having an idea of how old these things are will give you a better idea of when you might need to replace them and you can plan accordingly.

     Look at the vegetation in your yard and in the adjacent neighbors’ yards. Is the property going to be easy maintain? Are any plants or trees of your neighbors encroaching on your property?

     Speaking of neighbors, how are the neighbors’ yards maintained?

     Lastly, if a home has carpet in it, I’d plan to replace it before you move in. You never know what’s been on it, how often/if it’s been cleaned, etc. One thing you can do is buy a black fluorescent light, turn the lights out, and walk around the carpeted area with the light. Any stains on the carpet will show up in the black light. Be prepared, though. It might creep you out! This happened to me!!

     Hope this helps!

4. QUESTION:
   What can be done for a house foundation which is settling unevenly?
   The foundation of my house seems to be settling unevenly. The garage area is sinking faster than the rest of the house, and it is starting to cause cracks in the walls. What can be done to stop or reverse this before it gets too bad? The house is about 40 years old.

   • ANSWER:
     Call a foundation expert to assess the problem and recommend repairs. You can’t do this yourself.

     There is a new process called hydro-jacking which may be an option for you as an alternative to having new piers placed under the slab. Hydraulic cement is injected in strategic locations under the slab to level out low spots, is less labor-intensive than trenching around the foundation and can be done for a fraction of what a typical repair job will cost. Ask the contractor who comes to see you about this.

     Once the foundation repair is complete you may have to address water problems that caused the slab to sink in the first place. Gutters/downspouts, french drains, etc. are cheap insurance.

5. QUESTION:
   How much will foundation repair on my home cost??
   I have just moved into a hundred year old home that is sagging on one side. I want to know what kind of options I have before I purchase this house. Is there a cost effective way of fixing this problem????

   • ANSWER:
     sounds like you ought to pass it by.
     contractors costs are with out a doubt, going to get expensive.

     Think about, how much dammage has the sag caused to the surrounding structure, and how long has that sag been ignored?

6. QUESTION:
   Is the cost of foundation repair worth it on an older home?

   If you’re not planning (necessarily) to keep it for the duration, is the repair investment going to have a great return if it’s sold?

   • ANSWER:
     Tony H;
     It will be money well spent, besides, what other option is there, other than tearing down the building.
     A leaking foundation will degrade the house value, and cause mold and other health issues.

7. QUESTION:
   How much would it cost to fix loose bricks on a home?
   Located beneath a window maybe about a total of 16-25sq ft. Bricks are sort of popping out about .25inc. House was built is 1965, It’s about to have some minor foundation work done. Just wanted to know about how much it would cost to repair that section of brick. Thanks for your help! =)

   • ANSWER:
     Answer:

     I have done this before. It took about 2 hours and cost about .
     *I took a digital picture of the way it looked
     *pulled the bricks out
     *chipped away some of the old loose mortar
     *went to Home Depot and bought a bag of mortar for , and trowel for
     *mixed the mortar in a bucket until it was as thick as pancake batter
     *put a bit in each space and packed it all back together.
     * I used old plastic CD cases to get the spacing right

     That was about 10 years ago. It still looks perfect!
     If you get right up and stick your nose on the bricks you can tell the difference. But, nobody ever bends down and gets that picky about my brick repair job.

     Good luck.

     P.S. Mortar dries better in warm weather. Make sure it’s not raining or freezing when you do this. Don’t mix more mortar than you are going to use in about 15-20 minutes.

8. QUESTION:
   How serious is a crack in the foundation of a house that is 7 years old?
   Looked at a house for sale. We really like it but it had a long crack across the tiled floor. It has been repaired. New tile and grout where it was cracked. It was quite long. Think it is alright? Is this very common?

   • ANSWER:
     Get a knowledgeable inspector or structural engineer to evaluate the problem.

     Alternatively, you might call a foundation repair company for a free estimate.

     This way you will not only find out what the problem is, but also what needs to be done and how much it will cost to have it done.

     You can then, negotiate down the price of the property, based on that written estimate or demand that the seller fix it before closing the deal.

     If you really like the place, you might be able to get a good deal here.

9. QUESTION:
   How much to charge to paint a foundation?
   A person wants me to paint the outside foundation of their house, and I don’t know how to bid the job…it’s the stuco part at the bottom. I don’t know how long it will take ( their are bush’s part way around. How do they price something like this???

   • ANSWER:
     One option when not familiar with work is time and materials basis: Tell the person that you will do it on a time and materials basis…that is they can supply the paint and materials and you will supply the labor…it will take as long as it takes to paint it. Depending on your relationship with these folks you might paint a section of the job on T&M basis then bid the rest of the job or keep to T&M. Not much to risk on their part…and no risk on your part. Home owners dont like this approach because they feel like you will work slower and more expensively than you would if you bid it as a job.

     Another option is to bid it as a job, whatever you tell them it will cost is what they will pay you and no more. Unless you are careful you will lose on this type of bid – or if really cautious you will over bid it…either way you’ll likely not get the job. This hard bid or job bid is tough as often there will be changed circumstances for example what if you find a section of stucco that is rotten – are you willing and able to explain to them that this is a changed condition and that your original price did not include repair?

     How to bid it:
     1. Calculate the area in square feet of the foundation to be painted.
     2. Figure out how much paint and other materials you need. Paint, drop cloths, brushes , rollers, scaffolding or ladders – do you need to prime the surfaces to be painted?
     3. Specify the type of preparation you will do – ie scraping off old paint or are you only going to pressure wash it? Tell them that minor caulking etc is OK but anything more is considered a repair and not part of your bid.
     4. Figure out how much time it will take to pressure wash, figure out how much time it will take to paint. Once you have the time numbers double the amount of time unless you are really confident in your assessment.
     5. Figure out your wage per hour, multiply by number of hours and add in cost of materials if you are buying those add 15%.

     Good luck – my recommendation is you go time and materials until you know what you are doing.

10. QUESTION:
    Question about house flipping?
    I love to watch those house flipping shows. They always make an old house look pretty and new. But what about the electric wiring and the plumbing? Shouldnt all that be updated also? They never seem to do anything with wiring.

    • ANSWER:
      Those shows are mostly about decorating from what I’ve seen, and wiring and plumbing aren’t pretty.

      I’ve only flipped a couple of houses but before I bought them, I had the wiring, plumbing, and foundations checked out thoroughly. Those 3 items are the most expensive to repair and will run up the cost of the house more than anything else.

11. QUESTION:
    Can a proper home(roof) inspection be done when the roof is covered with snow?
    Does the exterior of the roof have to be thoroughly inspected as well to verify the actual condition of the roof, or will an interior inspection be sufficient? If it’s not possible to inspect the exterior because of the snow on the roof, then what can the buyer do to ensure that he is buying a house which has a good roof? How can the buyer’s interest be protected when buying a home in the winter?

    • ANSWER:
      The exterior roof inspection is a relatively small part of the overall home inspection. The inspection contract will generally say the inspection will only cover what is visible. If you want to make sure the exterior of the roof is inspected, you can arrange to have the snow cleaned off. But the inspector can tell a lot about the roof by inspecting it from the inside. Some inspectors will clean off enough snow to at least inspect parts of the outside. Most won’t.

      The most important things to get inspected before buying a house usually aren’t, because the inspection would cost more. If it’s a slab foundation with no basement, it’s very important to get the plumbing inspected extensively. That’s because plumbing work can be very costly with a slab foundation. A typical inspection only tests the functionality of the plumbing, but not the actual condition of the pipes under the slab, nor the condition of the sewer line. Compared to those, a roof is relatively cheap to repair. Something that typically happens with moderately old houses on slab foundations is that tree roots grow into the sewer line, causing frequent sewer backups. The only permanent way to fix that is to replace the sewer line with a more modern one. Otherwise you have to get rid of the tree roots on an ongoing basis, year after year. Replacing the sewer line requires breaking the foundation slab with a jackhammer. But if the roof leaks, you usually only have to replace some shingles.

      The important point of all this is to be aware of the risks and costs. The inspection costs money and helps reduce your risks. But you will still have risks. And each risk can be measured by how likely an incident is to happen, combined with how much it would cost if it did happen. So don’t just inspect what seems obvious. Analyze the risks and find the most cost effective way to minimize them, with a very sophisticated inspection that takes such risks and costs into account.

12. QUESTION:
    My husband and I are thinking about making an offer on an old 1912 Colonial. What questions should we ask?
    I’ve never bought a house before so I’m not sure what I need to ask or the things I need to look for.
    Forgot to say before. The wiring has just been inspected and the house looks like someone has already done a lot of work to it. It’s got those great old fireplaces. The dining area has bay window. The kitchen and pantry is huge. There’s an office on ground floor with room at the back for another one if need be. Nice parlor. Two bedrooms second floor–only thing is the closets are REALLY small. Original chandelier. Full deck out back. Nice drive with plenty of room to build a garage. Huge front, back and side yards. Could even have a garden. All they want for it is 135k. My father-in-law is going to come up and inspect it and we’re just trying to figure out what else we need to ask the realtor and the owner about.

    • ANSWER:
      Foundations are the biggest issue. If the foudation isn’t sound the house is nearly worthless. Replacing foundations can cost upwards of fifty to a hundred thousand dollars. Bring a marble into the house a see if it rolls to one side of a room. Chances are if you can’t beat the marble to the other side the foundations have settled and the house will need to be jacked up and the foundations replaced. This will also mean gutting the interior and pretty much replacing everything. By this time it would have been cheaper to level the house and start over. Another thing to check on is insulation. Over time insulation settles and r-value is lost. Replacing insulation means stripping walls down to studs and re surfacing (drywall). You may want to check that lead pipes aren’t present in the plumbing system. And check to see if any asbestos is present. It is often used in insulation, to seal duct work, on roofs, and in siding. Don’t let me discourage though. I love old homes and if repairs aren’t too overwhelming the woodwork and overall craftmanship can easily make up the difference.

13. QUESTION:
    buying a house on a slope higher than the road?
    I am first time home buyer and looking to buy a house on the slope.Hill extending above behind the backyard and road below the house in the front. Will we get a flooding issues as water can come from behind due to gravity. There was one known incident of a puddle in the basement. What should I worry about or ask? Will it be difficult to fix such leakages> How much they cost typically? How us 60 years old.
    The house don’t have a sump pump. The current owners are second and they had it only once. There is no river above so there is path to water. almost all houses in the area are 50-70 years old. can’t afford the new house as in this town anything less than 10 year old goes for atleast a million and this one will be in 600K
    thanks for all those responded.
    I am going to have a pro check anyway but wondering if it is even worth considering buying the house if there is a problem which can’t be fixed below 20 grand

    • ANSWER:
      the puddle in the basement could mean you have a cracked foundation, this could be a small issue or a large one depending on how bad it is cracked, to fix such a leak could cost as little as 0.00 up to 000.00 depending if they have to dig out foundation and install weeping tile and proper drainage, get a pro to check your basement out first before you buy.
      Flooding will not be an issue if proper drainage is already existing or can be installed.
      A 60 year old house is not old at all, have a electrician check out wiring, a plumber to check plumbing and have a house inspector check out the rest of the house, the house will be settled so once the leak is repaired you will be OK.
      You did not mention if you had a sump pump or what type of drain is in basement, the water on the floor could be as easy as a burnt out pump.
      Like I suggested have it professionally checked out.
      Good luck

14. QUESTION:
    How much should we offer on the home of our dreams?
    The house is listed for a quick sale at right below 200,000-too much for us. Home will go to auction in August. Home is in Putnam County IN, has 10 acres, 3 bedrooms, 3.5 bathrooms, 3 car attached garage, bonus room. There is no central air, all flooring needs to be replaced, kitchen is outdated, roof appears to need some work, needs painted on inside and out, some holes in siding, missing light fixtures on garage and the ones that are there do not match, outside and inside trim missing, no railing on staircase, no dishwasher, appliances included are very outdated, behind house is old boat, lots of trash, old motors and a very rundown shed, and the kitchen floor has a mysterious bump in it(possible foundation issue). All these things were noticed during an informal 5 minute tour of the property. Any help anyone can give us in coming up with a reasonable offer will be greatly appreciated. Our realtor is the listing agent on the property so we aren’t expecting much help from him.

    • ANSWER:
      Hard to answer, but here is how I would approach it.

      Try to figure out what a comparable house in the Indianapolis area would go for on a standard lot. Pick a house in decent condition. I might used Greencastle or Danville area. Then try to add to that what you feel the extra 9 or more acres is worth. Then discount from that total what the repair and upgrades for things like A/C are going to cost (k-k ???).

      Also, consider that the housing market is not real great right now. And not a lot of people want to live that far out in the country. It’s just too far to drive to work!

      It doesn’t really hurt that much to low-ball in this market. The worst they can do is say no and it will likely result in a counteroffer that will give you a better idea of their rock bottom price.

      Everyone says to get another realtor. I don’t know that I necessarily agree with that. Realtors can represent both sides in Indiana, it is legal. Yes, he will not give you much help on an offer price, but if you can figure that out yourself, then no big deal. Your offer may be more indicative of what you can afford rather than what the house is worth anyway! And trust me, any realtor is going to have a hard time appraising that property.

      A realtor can charge the seller anything he wants. If he knows that he will not be having to split a commission with your realtor, he can charge the seller less overall for the services, even if he is representing you also (because he keeps both sides). This means the owner keeps more of the sale proceeds and therefore might be willing to take a lower price for the home.

15. QUESTION:
    Will using astroturf or a similar product extend the life of a worn deck?
    My deck is 27 years old. Built well with pressure treated wood and never cleaned or had sealer put on. Now the foundation of the deck is still good, but some boards have rotted parts and nails popping out. A good contractor agreed to replace the decking, railings and stairs for 00. That seems really steep to me despite this being a high cost labor area. My neighbor fixed his by turning over the boards and replacing some. He did this himself, but said the work was extremely difficult and does not recommend it.
    My idea is to pound in the nails and then cover the whole deck with with thick astroturf. I hope that I can afford to sell the house in two to 10 years, when sales are better, so that big 00 bill is not something I want to spend if there is a less expensive way. What do you think of my idea and can I do it myself? (I am pretty old and not too clever with a hammer, although willing to try)
    Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      Placing astroturf, or outdoor carpeting, could actually make your deck boards rot faster, if moisture (not just water) gets trapped between the boards and the ‘turf, or outdoor carpet.

      I would seriously advise that you put some work into the deck. Reseal it after repairs.
      The boards that are rotted, need to be replaced. You can ‘blend’ a repair somewhat, by using older boards – literally pull them up from one location, to use at another, and then replace a whole section with new boards… perhaps even creating a new design with them — then it’s a remodel, not just replacing bad boards, hehehe…

      I always recommend using screws, rather than nails. They do not ‘back out’ like nails do.

      You might consider this… try contacting your local vo-tech school, to see if they have a ‘construction’ class – one that teaches carpentry/framing skills, etc… perhaps, if you purchase the materials, they would like the opportunity to have the students work on your deck. Doesnt hurt to check into it, and may save you the cost of labor. 🙂

      Another option might be to contact your local community action agencies, they may be able to help, or know of some group in your area that could. Last but not least, check with your local churches, and community groups (Lions, JC’s, Rotary, etc) – they also may have help available, or some energetic young people who would be willing to help out.

      Good Luck

16. QUESTION:
    what causes plaster to crack between the wall and the ceiling?
    there are lots of big cracks appearing between the ceiling and the tops of the walls. There are cracks in the plaster on the ceiling and the joins between the wall and the ceiling itself. Im worried that something is happening- its in every room in the house
    the house is a 2 storey, built around 1983/85 ish. the cracks are only on the ceiling not on the walls. we havent had a leak in any of the upstairs rooms. and i dont think its because the roof is leaking because its happening to the downstairs rooms too

    • ANSWER:
      I saw other good answers here but thought these extra points may be valuable…

      YES, normal expansion and contraction of building-materials CAN and WILL cause cracks. However, those forms of cracking happen over long periods of time; typically decades.

      If you are noticing a sudden appearance of new cracks, especially large ones, then there are probably other mechanical causes.

      Such causes could include:
      Stresses from increased wind or storm activity,
      Mechanical load-shifting, such as moving a piano, pool table or heavy machines within a home.
      Failure of insulation systems so that drastic invasion of moisture causes severe expansion.
      Seismic activity… Do you live in an Earthquake zone? or Near a busy highway? Heavy truck traffic can cause some of the same foundation-shifting damage that minor Earthquakes do!
      Tree roots. Do you have several large trees on your property? If so, then roots can damage a foundation in just one summer.

      If you rule out all those potential causes, I suggest you hire a licensed building inspector. Only a personal inspection from a trained engineer can determine the cause. It may be something simple and easily fixed.

      But no matter what, buildings do not fix themselves!

      If YOU own the property, you should make a small investment in an inspection soon, before problems become more expensive later. If you are renting, then the owner should be made aware of the problem. He will have to fix it.

      It is conceivable that minor structural problems could accumulate over time so that several new cracks might appear within a few months. However, if the building was designed and built to code, that is unlikely. All modern structures have redundant systems to insure structural integrity. If you see many new cracks or see old cracks getting worse, the most likely cause is foundation damage.

      The most likely cause of foundation damage is free-flowing water or frost-heaving. Free flowing water can come from springs, poor drainage or broken water pipes. If you live in a place that has cold winters, certain types of foundations are prone to “heaving” from the freeze and thaw cycles.

      During the building boom of 1980’s ( when your house was built) there was a rash of contractors who hastily poured or stacked prefab foundations to cash in on the boom. Those foundations are now a time-bomb for homeowners, since 30 to 40 years is about their maximum lifespan.

      Again, only a building inspector can determine of any that is the case. Hire one soon. It’s a small investment for a service that could protect you, your family and your property. Depending on your ownership status and how the home was financed, you may have special legal rights that will help you recover some repair costs, although that is remote. Again, you cannot determine anything until a building inspector examines the house.

      If you are strapped for cash, and you rent, then a local building-code inspector will provide service for free to you but at the expense of the owner.

      No matter what, get this inspected immediately. The news might be bad, but I guarantee it will be worse if you wait.

17. QUESTION:
    How much should I spend redoing my deck for it to be worth it?
    I have a small house with a small deck that is old and needs to either be sanded down 3’4″ or completely rebuilt to repair the damage it has sustained. We bought the house for 720,000 a year ago and zillow right now says it is worth 746,000. How much will the repair to the deck cost and how much would it bring back? We live in Marin County, CA.

    • ANSWER:
      You know, people ask these kind of questions all the time and they are so broad. It really depends on the ACTUAL size of the deck (small doesn’t tell us much), the type of wood now there, or what type you would replace it with, etc. You need to consult those who build decks and get estimates, then compare to the materials and labor YOU would put in to refurbish your existing deck. In other words, YOU will need to do some legwork here. Also, the type of foundation under the deck is important, as some counties and towns require a more elaborate foundation than do others. Ask a realtor what adding a new deck would add to your home value-wise. And, unless you are selling the home immediately AFTER putting on a new deck, their answer won’t be valid forever. Prices change, and decks go in and out of favor. A deck is NOT considered a permanent structure, either. It’s actually of LESS value than you probably think and if it’s small, then even more so, Also, homes usually don’t go up in value quite as much as you are stating (26,000 in one year) even in California, but perhaps yours is a special case or something. With the depressed RE market, that seems a little off.

18. QUESTION:
    How much lower should you offer from a seller’s asking price?
    We’re looking at a home listed for 130,000 in a very rural community. We would really love to get the house of a little less. We also want the sellers to pay some or all of the closing cost. The house is unoccupied at the time. Is there a percent that you can go by. The real state market in the area is overwhelmed with listings and not many people looking to relocate to the area.

    • ANSWER:
      There is no general percentage. There is a chance this house is already listed below market to draw interest, with the idea that that is the final number.

      Getting the seller to pay closing costs is something you can put in the offer, but you need to be specific with an amount – they vary wildly. And a lot of sellers just want as clean of a deal as possible, so adding 10 requirements could just bog down the offer.

      So look at what similar homes are going for in the area. Since it’s rural you may need to look at old data, then reduce that price by the average that real estate is down in your county (which will compensate for the state of the real estate market). Then subtract large immediately necessary repairs (roof, a/c, foundation bracing, septic/well), and you’ll come to a good number.

      If you are cash strapped and want them to cover closing costs, add the amount of closing costs to your “good number” from above (so you will be paying “more” for the house).

      Keep in mind if this house has been sitting vacant the sellers may have been paying 2 mortgage payments for some time and are even more broke than you. Selling the house may not net them any cash to hand over to you. So it’s possible that any offer with such terms will be immediately turned down.

      Hope this helps.

19. QUESTION:
    what could go wrong with a mobile home?
    so I’m thinking about purchasing a mobile home (no it’s not a trailer but a modular home)…and its about 30 years old. i was wondering what types of things could go wrong with it? is it same as a house or are there other things to consider? It looks really well taken care of and the roof was just reshingled 3 years ago
    any advice for me?

    • ANSWER:
      A mobile home is very different than a “modular” in the eyes of the lenders. You will not be able to get financing for a mobile home UNLESS it is on a permanent foundation. Neither of them appreciate in value like a stick built home. I believe it is a bad investment, unless it is all you can afford. If the home is 30 years old it is probably not as well insulated as today’s requirements, therefore it is probably not energy efficient and will cost more to heat and cool. The other negative is that after 20 – 30 years even stick built house need updates, and I wouldn’t imagine pulling the trailer apart to repair would be easy to find parts for as it is a “manufactured” home and everything, other than maybe the appliances, are usually non-standard sizes. The doors and windows are definitely non- standard in size. You can’t upgrade by installing storm windows or even replacements, so again bad investment.

      If you can afford to buy this outright, only the land will be the “good investment” if it even comes with land. I would suggest you pick a lender and ask ahead of time before they pull your credit about purchasing a mobile or a modular compared to a stick built home. There are mortgage brokers that can advice you on this. If you can only afford a Small mortgage maybe you could look around for a cheaper home and get a “cost to cure” loan for a stick built house that is not in perfect condition. A “cost to cure” loan allows you to buy the not-so-perfect house for an affordable price and then monies are put aside to pay the licensed contractors to do the repairs. As an example let’s say you bought a house that need the central a/c heat system replaced, about 5000.00, you would get the loan for the full amount of the sales price plus the 5000.00 and the lender pays out the 5000.00 to the contractor as needed until complete.

20. QUESTION:
    how to fix it a crack on the outside wall?
    hiring the crack team it costs me a lot of money..I would like to know if I can fix it myself and how to do it? Any advice please.

    • ANSWER:
      Stuco or block? Is the block cracked or just the joints?…..
      There are plenty of scenarios and plenty of fixes that won’t ost you an arm and a leg. But, make sure the cracking isn’t due to unresolved foundation issues. Some cracking is expected as houses get old and settel, but if it’s major cracking get a contractor or structural engineer out to properly diagnose the problem.

      For repair options though, I have had great luck with Gel-Patch. It is a structural rated mortar and o.k. for moisture prone areas. Thuro Seal Plaster is a good product too and is rated for moisture.

      For a basic tuck point or minor poured foundation repair….this is a simple way I have done it. (I have done two major foundation repairs this season (interior and exterior) in conjunction with home remodels I have done.)

      You’ll want to thuroughly clean out all loose material from the crack. use a chisel to get the bulk of loose stuff out. Use a stiff wire brush then to get all particles out. if you have a compresser clean out the crack with air after the brushing. If it is reachable I use a strong shop vac to clean it.
      Carefully read the manufacturer’s specs. Some areas need to be primed with a latex type liquid first. Others want a sponge wet surface.
      Mix per directions, let slough.
      If the crack is bigger than the material is rated to fill in one application, fill it as much as you can, let it cure, then add additional courses untill you’re flush.
      You can use a joint tool if neccesary to match the existing, or use a piece of copper pipe.
      Ussually when it is curing I’ll go back with a wire brush to rough up the finish.
      This is a super generic overview!

      Take a peak at this link for ideas.
      http://homerepair.about.com/od/exteriorhomerepair/ss/sbs_tuckpoint_3.htm

21. QUESTION:
    what is some advice with my house that is falling apart?
    I tried to sell it. The foundation must be falling apart & its really old & needs so much repairing/updating that I absolutley cant afford. I could have a structural engineer give his opinion? & if possible could I have homeowners insurance help cover some costs? I dont think its sellable without losing lots of $. Even if it did get sold it may be torn down anyway. Its become a thorn in my side.

    • ANSWER:
      Lower the price, fix it or walk away from it.

22. QUESTION:
    If a foundations is sinking, is it a repairable problem, or is the home done for?
    I suspect my foundation is sinking, but that has not been verified yet….One of my floors slopes towards an outside wall, and there is a hairline diagonal crack going from the doorframe to the roof pointing towards the outer wall…there is also a weak floor area directly under the hairline crack.

    is a sinking foundation something that is worth repairing? what should I look for?

    • ANSWER:
      this question isn’t so easily answerable as you didn’t provide needed information. however, almost all houses settle and their foundations shift/sink/rise. this can be because of a number of reasons from anything to a sinkhole opening up under the house to hydrostatic pressure building from the rainy season.
      when a part of the foundation sinks or moves, a large enough degree, it will change the square of the home, and this will crack plaster, make doors and windows stick and not be able to open and shut normally/etc.
      to actually know what is what you almost need a foundation engineer to look at things and make a assessment. from your description no one can really tell you if it is worth it (we do not the value of your home, it’s age or the circumstances involved.) but I can tell you usually it can in fact be fixed, or even ignored. if your house for instance in brand new, and you just moved in and your foundation shifted 6 inches out of norm already…then I’d say you have something seriously to be worried about…if it’s 100+ years old and all you have is that crack, I’d say you probably have nothing to do worry about at all.
      a foundation engineer will know specifically though and it shouldn’t cost a lot just to get them to look….although if you have one come from a company, I would outright tell them your policy is to never have the person’s company doing the assessment do the work involved, so it won’t do him any good to alarm you if it isn’t something that needs alarming over. (course even if you tell them that, you can then still have his company do the work anyways. not like they’d turn it down.)

23. QUESTION:
    Cracked Foundation repaired with epoxy cracked again?
    on the inside wall of the garage close to the middle of poured concrete foundation is craked on the inside of the house aproximatley 3 feet long. this foundation has been repaired with epoxy.although the house must still be serttling (4 years old)
    where the foundation has been repaired it is craking in the same spot about 2mm-3mm wide crack.
    what wouuld be the cause of this and what can be done to remedy the situation?if possible how costley would this be to fix.
    this is an inside wall from a 2 car garage.

    • ANSWER:
      twood has hit it, it is a very costly problem. The house would have to be jacked, then the wall removed and replaced, then it needs to set up THEN maybe if all is well your house can be dropped. App. time 4-5 months ( in best scenario). Cost depends on the size. If you have a warranty with your house I would be checking into that. Otherwise the rest is your decision to fix it or leave it. Worst case the wall could slip your house falls in. Best of luck to you.

24. QUESTION:
    I am buying a house of what things should be alert?
    I am buying a 465 000 house I want to know some things that I must know from my agent or things that i should expect i dont want ot get rip off in other words I want to be alert.

    • ANSWER:
      Things you should know before buying a house.

      Look for a developer first. Whether you find one through referrals or through your own research, investigate a developer’s reputation carefully:

      1. Visit other projects (especially older projects) that the same developer built.
      2. Look for durability of construction.
      3. Talk to homeowners in these developments and in the one you’re considering.
      4. Find out how well the builder responds to complaints and follows up on repairs. Some developers have a person or department right on site to handle repairs.
      5. Talk to authorities.
      6. Contact the Better Business Bureau, the state’s regulatory agency for builders, and the county courthouse. Find out if there have been any complaints, disciplinary actions or lawsuits against the builder.
      7. Talk to vendors.
      8. Contact suppliers, subcontractors and lenders. Find out if the builder pays bills on time.
      9. Approve the Location
      10. Evaluate the location, just as you would for a resale home. New-home communities are often built on the developing edge of a metropolitan area, so make sure that a freeway isn’t planned to come through in 20 years. Check with the local zoning and/or planning department and look at their master development plan (if they have one) for any future development activity that might affect you.

      TIP: Heavy demand and short supply drive up prices in booming areas. If you’re buying in a rapid-growth area, try not to overpay for a new home. The market will inevitably correct itself and may leave you with a house that’s worth less than what you paid for it.

      11. Negotiate Your Purchase
      Most new-home developers want you to use their sales agents to purchase a home in the project, rather than bringing in your own representative, and most contracts favor builders. For example, a typical contract may not provide escrow funds to handle repairs after closing. In theory, the sales price, contract terms, upgrades and options are all negotiable. In reality, most builders would rather give upgrades to avoid lowering the price, which lowers the comparative market value of other homes in the development.

      Before you sign the purchase contract, find out exactly what the price includes in addition to the house, such as window coverings or landscaping. Ask about quality. Are the carpets, light fixtures, doors and windows you saw in the model the same grade that you will get in your home? Make sure your purchase agreement includes an itemized list of finishing details and who pays for them, which both you and the builder should sign.

      TIP: Plan for delays. Don’t leave your present home until you’re certain when you can occupy your new home. The builder may be willing to pay the cost of an interim rental or hotel room if construction is delayed.

      12. Inspect Construction
      When you buy a home before it’s built, you can follow its construction from foundation to roof. Consider doing three inspections:

      1. When the foundation is poured

      2. When the framing is up but not yet covered.

      3. When construction is complete.

      Not all builders will agree to this condition (even though you pay for inspections), but if you can negotiate it into your contract, it gives you one way to exercise some quality control. If you buy the house before it’s completed, use the final walk-through to make a list (called a “punch list”) of finishing details that the builder still needs to complete. Have the builder sign a copy of the punch list.

      Other inspection tips:

      Make sure that your right to an inspection is covered in the purchase agreement.
      Ask for copies of any previous inspection reports, including the soils report, so your inspector can review them.
      Get copies of any blueprints, construction documents or surveys so your inspector can review them.
      Understand your builder’s warranty policy. A typical 10-year warranty covers structural defects for 10 years, as well as construction materials and defects for the first year and major mechanical systems for the second.

25. QUESTION:
    how do insurance companies estimate the amount of coverage for your home?
    That is, how do they estimate the amount of living area of your home (sq foot), the cost to repair, etc.

    • ANSWER:
      We have a computer program put out by Marshall Swift/Boeckh. We put in the zip code, year built (yes that matters), # of families, length x width (outside measurements), # of stories, additions with size, foundation type (slab, crawl, basement, walkout, finished, etc), framing type (studs, post & beam, steel, etc), ceiling height (8, 9 or 10 ft), general shape. Also, siding type, roof type (asphalt, metal, slate, etc – whether it is elaborate), any cathedral ceilings, attached structures like garages, porches, balconies & decks (with size). As for the inside we put in quality of kitchen & baths (basic, builders grade, semicustom, custom or designer), # of full, 3/4 & half baths, flooring, wall coverings, ceilings, fireplaces, heat type (hot air, hot water, radiant, including fuel type), any hot tubs or jacuzzis, spiral staircases, elevators, chair lifts, built in bookshelves, special millwork, decorative beams. That is all I can think of off the top of my head. It is a pretty comprehensive program.
      We can also add in architect fees and contractor overhead. It is pretty accurate for most houses. When you start getting up towards 0,000 to ,000,000 plus, it is still best to get a builder that specializes in custom homes to do real appraisal on the rebuilding cost. It may also estimate low if you have an old victorian with turrets, fancy siding & gingerbread & lots of custom woodwork inside. You would want a builders estimate in that case too.
      I hope this helps.

26. QUESTION:
    Can almost any house foundation problems be fixed?
    It has wood peirs and 2 of them are broken, the house has some cracks and crack in the brick, can this be fixed? does it cost a ton of money? are wood piers good or should they be replaced? can you fix wood piers easily? any info would be very helpful thanks!!

    • ANSWER:
      I have to disagree with Mike M. Any problem can be repaired, It’s just a matter of how much it will cost. Older foundations, such as the one your describing, can be under pinned. This is done by digging next to your foundation, pouring a footing under it, and strengthening the walls you have. It can get costly.

27. QUESTION:
    I would like to know what will happen to the victims in the flooding in Iowa?
    I’ve seen the houses go down the river, will they be compensated for the great lost?

    • ANSWER:
      Sadly, if it’s anything like what is happening here, in Indiana that was hit hard as well, the victims don’t even know the answer to your question.

      Here’s an example of what is going on here. Houses were flooded that were not in flood zones, so no flood insurance was offered. The state made agrreements (LONG ago) w/ FEMA that certain rebuilding requirements would be met in order for FEMA to step in during an emergency. No one bothered to tell the homeowners. So, they have spent weeks, barely sleeping to rip their houses down to the studs, if they are lucky enough to have a house left. Then they were told they can’t even repair their homes until they fill in the basement if they had one or raise the entire house up and put a new and higher foundation under it. In a lot of cases, most actually, the homeowners can’t afford to do that. That costs as much as some of the houses! Even worse, some of the 50 year old and up homes couldn’t withstand being lifted and would just crumble, but FEMA doesn’t care about that either. If they don’t agree to raise/ fill, they will be arressted for moving back into their home- even if they make it like it was before the flood. These are 100-500 year flood planes, meaning that’s how often they are expected to flood. The government and esp. FEMA are destroying lives in those cases, as much as the flood did. The governments weak excuse for this treatment of those that have already lost so much? IF, IF, in 100-500 years the homes were to flood again, it would cost tax payer money to have emergency personel so in and rescue them! I see a small point there, but not something drastic enough to remove someone from their home and make them homeless and a financial ruin of their lives. Everyone seems to think FEMA is amking it all better- they are not anymore than they did during Katrina.

28. QUESTION:
    How do you repair a stone foundation on a 150 yr. old house?

    • ANSWER:
      This is not an easy task, but, it can be done and save you a lot on labor costs. You may need some 12 Ton Hydraulic Jacks. Maybe about 4. First, I would find my level I need and mark with Sticks all around. Then you have to lift the house using the jacks and do the Concrete repair and any leveling required either with concrete or treated wood. After the Concrete has set then lower that section and move to the next. This way you can replace Rocks/Bricks and re-level the house. Remember, this has to be done on the Piers under the house also. Actually this is a fun project that may require time depending on your work schedule. BUT, you can save much money and say you did this yourself. Heck, if, we were close enough, I could come show you some of what you need to do. I never charge for this stuff, just Room and Board while I around. I make my money, not have to do it off others, just help. Makes life a Blast and make many friends this way.

29. QUESTION:
    structural engineer costs to stabilize old house?
    How much might a structural engineer charge to raise several (3-4?)sagging areas of an 80-year-old house, including the center of the structure? It’s a wood frame house, with no basement, of about 1500 square feet. Also, how much might an evaluation cost? The house is in Central Florida.

    • ANSWER:
      I believe Ernie A is on the right track about contractors, but he may misunderstand the roll that a qualified structural engineer will play in this type of renovation. A licensed structural engineer familiar with residential repairs should be either your first or second call. Absolutely no work should begin on structural portions of the home before an engineer has had a chance to evaluate the original condition. Prices will vary, but I doubt anyone will come out for less than 0 and it is more likely to be 0-350 for an observation and recommendation for repairs depending on how many problems and repairs are required.

      Number one, it will keep the contractor focused on fixing the actual problem, not just the symptoms of the problem. Secondly, and just as important, the jurisdiction where your home is will require that structural changes or improvements are approved (and possibly designed by) a licensed Florida engineer.

      The engineer will take on the liability of the repair, which means that he or she will do their best to give you a repair that meets or exceeds current building codes approved by your jurisdiction in Florida (such as the 2006 International Residential Code).

      The structural engineer will be one cost, several hundred for observation and stamped report (and possibly drawn repair details as well). From the date of observation I would expect to have a report back to you in about five to ten business days, depending on how busy and how complex etc.

      The contractor will be a much larger cost. Several thousand for foundation repairs and more for framing repairs or improvements is not uncommon. Getting several quotes is good, but making sure they are quoting for the exact same amount of work is also important. That’s why having the structural engineer come out first makes a lot of sense. You can also have the engineer come back during the progress of the construction to observe the repairs and check to see if the work appears to conform to his repair recommendations.

      It would be rare to find an engineer and a contractor to work for the same company, it would be even more rare to find them to be the same person, but it does happen on occasion. It is almost a conflict of interest to have the engineer also be the contractor, it depends on how much you trust the engineer.

30. QUESTION:
    Can we build a larger house on a 50-year old foundation?
    We got a 50-year old house. There is evidence that there was foundation shifting. The house itself is in a pretty bad condition so it is possibility that we will tear the one floor house down and build a two-floor house. Now I wonder, if it is possible/desirable to preserve or fix the foundation so we can save some building cost. The house is in Dallas, TX and the old foundation is pier and beam

    • ANSWER:
      Funny you should ask … that is our situation exactly. We bought a new, two-story home that was built on the foundation of a 1950s ranch. We are getting a LOT of settling and buckling of floors. The builder used all the original beams and floor joists and they’re just groaning under all of the additional wait. Plus there was a lot of termite damage that they “repaired” but I’m not sure they did a thorough and strong enough job. As far as I know, the cinder block walls are holding up ok, but the builder finished the basement so there may be some shifting that I can’t see. If I were you I just would not proceed without a competent structural engineer at your side. Best of luck!

31. QUESTION:
    Does anyone have any suggestions of how to use these walls? They are part of the original farmhouse.?
    I hired a landscaper to do yard work. He asked me what my plans were for my back yard then told me one day he had a mason coming over to give me an estimate. What I have is the stone foundation of a barn that used to be attached to my house. The stone frame varies from 2’ – 7 high and consistently about 3 ‘ wide. The total length of all the walls comes to 80 ‘.

    I love the looks of these stone walls and would like to have a two tier patio made by filling in the lowest levels with crushed stone then make kind of top.

    The mason came to my home and said this is a mess. The reason the wall last 200 years was because the barn held it in place, but now that I tore the barn down, and because I live on a sloped property (this area is level though) the wall will inevitably cave. He said the only thing I can do is have the wall taken apart and rebuilt that will cost ,000.00. Once done, the slope of my property and the roof of my house dripping rain water will cause it to fall eventually. He said “You have about 0.00 in materials here, but getting rid of it will cost more than 0.00.”

    I do not have ,000.00 to make a patio and I do not want to pay for him to take my stones away- I really like the way they look.
    There is no slope where the stone all is, the slope is in the front of my proprty (70′ before the wall) and 30′ after the wall my proprty drops off again.
    I have a problem with the info given to me. I see stone walls retaining bank walls and I see stone walls on properties above other properties and the walls seem stable.
    I am going to get a few estimates from masons I select.

    • ANSWER:
      If you have water dripping from your roof, redirect it away from the stone walls. this way it should not do any damage to the old walls or the house foundation.

      One thing you may want to do is cap the tops of the wall. This is done by building a wooden form along the top of the wall so it can hold about 4 inches of concrete. You mix the concrete so it is not too wet but is a little stiff. Over fill the forms slighty and trowel the concrete so it is higher in the center (make it appear to be a low roof running the length of the wall). This will help to prevent water from penetrating the top of the wall and causing it to deteriorate. If you are ina n area where the winter goes below freezing, this is very important. Water that pentrates into the wall will freeze and cause the motar to crumble. This will eventually make the wall unstable and unsafe.

      If you do decide to have another contractor look at it, try a masonary contractor that works with stone and does repairs to old stone walls instead of landscape contractors Read below about selecting contractors..

      Selecting contractors:

      1/ Look up local contractors first. work out form the closest
      to your location. If some you trust has had work done
      similar to yours, ask them about the contractor they
      used. If they were completely satisfied with their
      contractor(s), ask for their telephone number.

      2/ Select at least 5 your are interested

      3/ Do a google/yahoo search on each of the contractors
      you are interested in; look for praises (check who is
      writing the praises to see if they have any connection to
      the contractor google/yahoo search the people giving
      the praise or references)

      4/ When you are satisfied with at least 3 contractors per job,
      have the give you written estimates with details of work
      to be done, terms, guarantee(s), cost of extras (how
      much do they charge if they find something not covered
      by the contract), paymant schedules if necessary and
      whatever else you can think of to protect yourself.

      5/ If the contractor tries to pressure you into signing the
      contract immediately with a high deposit (more than
      15%) reject that contractor. Be careful, high pressure
      can be someone who sounds very convincing, but has
      many reasons why you should sign on the dotted line
      NOW.

      6/ It is always good to have another adult with you when a
      contractor inspects the work to be done.

      7/ If you do not get at least 3 written estimates signed by the

      contractor – not you (do not sign yet) , go back to 1. repeat until you

      get written estimates signed by the contractor – not you (do not sign

      yet).

      Read the estimates over with some who has some knowledge of the work

      that has to be done.

      This may take longer than you thought; do not rush into it. Research,

      resaerch research, helps.

      When you are ready choose by being informed.

      Good Luck

32. QUESTION:
    what are the draw backs to buying an old house to be moved?
    built in 50s ceder wood and ceder strip walls with plaster over them
    old solid doors roof looks ok but sure it will need hurricane clips?
    I am i Galveston county TX
    up on blocks seems sturdy but need a contractor to look at it for me

    • ANSWER:
      Whenever you move a building, there will be damage. Plaster is not forgiving, and you will end up with cracks in the walls from moving and when it settles on the new foundation. The cost of moving a home is going to depend on the distance, the size of the home, and the route that has to be traveled to move the home. If utility lines have to be moved or raised to allow the home clearance, the cost will be more

      You will need a new foundation, and utility (water, septic / sewer, power) at the new location, and most likely you will need to upgrade some of the wiring in the 60 year old house.

      Compare the total cost of moving and repairing the home with the cost of building from scratch with modern (more efficient) windows, doors, insulation and heating A/C

33. QUESTION:
    replacing seal plate on home?
    older home. bug damage. need to replace sealplate. any advice or a good web site would be helpful. Don’t even know where to start as to how to fix this problem and the cost. thank you.

    • ANSWER:
      This is a major repair. The “SILL” plate is the first piece of wood above the foundation. The entire weight of the structure is supported by the sill plate.In order to replace it, you must first raise the house slightly to remove the load from the sill plate, then remove the rotten sill, and then install the replacement. This is a pretty expensive repair that should only be performed by an experienced and competent contractor. Check the “THIS OLD HOUSE” website for more details on sill plate replaceemnt.

34. QUESTION:
    Why are houses built on cinder blocks?
    I was just curious about this, but how come builders build houses on cinder blocks? If a bank we have doesn’t give us a loan for a home to buy, why do builders build homes on cinder blocks if no one will be able to buy this home because of the bank not letting us? Please reply with the most accurate response!:) Thanks in advance! :))

    • ANSWER:
      I don’t think the cinder block is the problem as much as how they are used and the quality of construction.
      Basement walls and foundations use cinder blocks all the time. At the bottom of the wall is a wider concrete foundation that is below the frost line and wide to spread the load of the home above over a larger area. Much older cheaper homes used posts made of cement or cinder blocks to support the floor beams. That wouldn’t be approved today nor would the home qualify for a new mortgage.
      The foundation under the posts were relatively shallow depending on the heat in the home from allowing the soil to freeze under the house. Frost will lift frozen soil several inches depending on how deep the frost goes. Around here you can see metal fence posts pushed upward out of the ground as much as a foot from the frost pushing up against the collar of concrete attached to the soil line of the post.
      When you buy a house and apply for a mortgage an inspector examines the house to see if it is a worthwhile investment. You don’t own the house until it is paid off. The mortgage company does. They need to make sure the house will last in good repair long enough for you to pay for it. If the house collapses, you leave and they have the mess.
      So if they turn down your app. It not only protects them but you as well. Find another house that will pass the inspection or if you can buy the house on a land contract with the seller and have the deficiencies fixed over time, then buy the house that way. Deduct what it would cost you to bring the house up to a point where it qualifies for a mortgage. If the seller doesn’t agree, find something else.
      Don’t fall in love with the house. It is a business decision more than a love affair.

35. QUESTION:
    If I am going to grad school in Dallas is it better deal to rent for 2 years or to buy a house?
    I heard its cheap there.

    • ANSWER:
      On the national average, to rent in Dallas is cheap. On the other hand, property values in and around Dallas tend to get a bit pricy unless you’re willing to purchase a home in an “undesirable” location. Another drawback to purchasing a home in the DFW area is many of the newer homes’ foundations tend to shift causing cracks and expensive repair costs. If you have a little money to invest, buying an older house with the intention of renting out the house later can be quite a lucrative investment for your future no matter where you live.

      I would rent first, shop around, and then make up my mind.

36. QUESTION:
    Waste Water Plumbing Question?
    I want to know if I’m being charged fairly. I have a plumber scheduled for tomorrow to replace the waste water lines from the kitchen & laundry area. He’s running these under our house which sits on a raised foundation (crawl space). He’ll be tying into the existing main line about 20 to 30 feet away. He’s also going to provide a new clean-out and change the waste line on one shower. I’m told this job is going to cost between 3,500. & 4,000 dollars. It sounds expensive to me but I don’t know. Any help would be appreciated.

    • ANSWER:
      Get estimates. I find it unusual that all these lines need replacing. Even in 100 year old houses with cast iron pipes this is unnecessary. I do historic restoration in Michigan and it would be a strange thing indeed to replace all the waste line just to do it. I can see replacing a section if there was an immovable obstruction but barring that all drains are snake-able. If you live in the north where work is slow you may want to ask yourself why is the plumber so keen on replacing all the waste lines as versus just repairing them.

37. QUESTION:
    Legal Questions regarding neighbors retaining wall?
    My parents are neighbors with a young couple that purchased the home at a discounted rate due to the retaining wall that is starting to fall. My parents home sits above their house, thus affecting the foundation of my parents home. The neighbor refuses to fix the wall… Is there anything that my parents can do to protect their property?

    • ANSWER:
      That’s an interesting question. In summary, the integrity of your parents’ home is based upon a structure on the neighbor’s property. Are you absolutely sure it’s the neighbor’s wall and not one owned by the municipality?
      Here’s an extreme scenario: If the neighbor’s wished to tear down their home, level their lot and build a new home, it is doubtful that your parents could stop them, but they might have to build a new wall. I am guessing that your parents home is older than the neighbors and when that house was built, the wall was placed to secure the original home.
      The neighbors do not have an obligation to maintain the other property, however they are prohibited from “creating waste” to another’s property. If your dad got really mad about this and re-directed their downspouts onto the neighbor’s property and it damaged their home, that is “creating waste”. Perhaps your mom and dad could offer to split the cost of the wall repairs or even pay for all of it, to insure that their property stays where it belongs. A look at both deeds may make mention of the wall and the obligation to maintain it.

38. QUESTION:
    Is anyone familiar with FHA inspections and the cost of repairing the below items
    We are purchasing a home with an FHA loan. The home is only 4 years old and passed a seperate inspection wonderfully.

    First, I’ll say I’m not that familiar with these types of things! But if someone can give me an idea of how easy it would be for my husband/relatives to fix, and a price range (0 or less, etc.)

    SO, the FHA inspector found 2 “problems”. We need to add a gutter extension(s) and we need to fill in dirt on one side of the house (1205 sq. ft house) because there is potential for a wet crawlspace.

    If you need more info, let me know. These aren’t major problems, but our loan requires these repairs to be made. We are hoping the seller will fix these minor repairs, but we are willing to fix them ourselves if the seller does not.

    If anyone is familiar with these types of repair, it would help us plan and budget if we knew how easy and costly it would be for us to make the repairs or how costly and effective it would be to just hire someone.

    And thanks in advance!!!

    • ANSWER:
      Well, a ‘gutter extension’ is just an extra length of gutter pipe to help take the rainwater a little further away from the foundation. You can find them at any hardware or building supply store, usually in at least a couple of colors. They’re simply attached by using a sheet metal screw. You can even find them with curves to help redirect the flow, if need be.
      Here is a video on how to install them
      http://www.expertvillage.com/video/54433_winterize-home-gutter-extensions.htm?utm_source=yahoo&utm_medium=yssp&utm_campaign=yssp_mainvids

      As to the dirt that needs to be filled in… that really depends on how big the depression, or ‘hole’ is that needs to be filled. Ideally, you want to bring the surface up so that the ground slopes away from the foundation wall.

      Typically, when FHA does an inspection like this, it is the sellers responsibility to correct anything they point out… not the buyers.
      Gutter extensions are easy, so the only real question is how much fill do you need to bring the slope to where it should be. You can call a landscaper for estimates on this. (By the way, the depressions are probably from the ‘backfill’ settling, perfectly normal in a new construction home, but it does need to be taken care of to prevent future damage)

      By the way, there is also a video on checking the grade around the home, in the selections below that video on how to add gutter extensions. It will give you a good idea of what it should look like when done.

      Congrats and Have Fun

39. QUESTION:
    To level or not to level?
    My home has been refurbished since Katrina left her stripes and sunken soils. However I realize now that the “re”setting of the concrete block foundation was an important process that was overlooked in the refurbishing phase to my home. The blocks (2 high) now look as though they want to calaspe on one side of the house. I inquired into the cost of leveling and setting additional blocks to support the house which is a small stucco 650 sq ft home and found that the price was way out of range. Now I am considering simply setting additional blocks close to the pre-existing blocks without the “leveling” process. I think this is someting that can be done by less than the usual experts and at minimal cost. The house seems level enough at this time. I need some opinions and suggestions from those of you who know. Is it wise to place reinforcement blocks close to the exisitng blocks for a fix or do I need to have the entire house leveled and reinforced? Thanks for your input.

    • ANSWER:
      I would recommend leveling the house now. This is something that you can accomplish yourself, since your house is on the small side. Work on one pier at a time, by placing temporary shoring (Blocks) under each side of the sunken pier. Use a bottle jack to lift that section of your house off of the old blocks and use the temporary shoring to hold the house. Remove the old blocks and make whatever repairs are necessary to the footer that the blocks sit on. This may range from no repairs, to breaking up the footer and replacing it. Once the footer is repaired, set the blocks back up and allow them to carry the load of the house. Once all of your piers and footers have been repaired, you can start to jack up sections of your home to get them leveled off. Use a 6′ level on the floors of your home to know when you are level. Once it is level, use steel shims or concrete blocks to build up your piers to the new height. Don’t go crazy on lifting the house, go with small lifts. You may have to go back and adjust as you go.
      Even if this is something that you don’t want to take on, I would recommend fixing the level issue now. The next hurricane will only double your troubles if it is left as is.
      Good Luck

40. QUESTION:
    Pouring concrete fouondation in Parma Ohio?
    I have a slanting foundation in my basement in the back of my house .. The wall is 40 ft long and 7 feet high .. It is made out of cinder block .. I was wondering how much would it cost to replace the foundation with new cinder blocks or would it be cheaper and the price if I poured a foundation instead of cinder block .. What would be better and how much am I looking at

    • ANSWER:
      The foundation is NOT of cinder blocks. Below the cinder blocks is the FOOTER foundation and that should be poured concrete with reinforcing rods about 18 inch wide and 8 thick.

      Atop of that are the cinder blocks. You will need to dig around the foundation and blocks to expose the entire 40 feet with a backhoe. Then remove the old footer and have a new level footer installed.

      Atop of that new and level footer you will need a new row of cement blocks, poured concrete would require forms and be more expensive.

      Why not call a company that jacks up houses and have them jack the entire thing to a level position. They dig holes and install permanent jacks in the ground to hold the house level..This is what is commonly done. They are listed in the yellow pages under foundation repairs. You are talking in the realm of around ,000 or more to do even this.

41. QUESTION:
    Is It Bad That I Plan On Being A Working Mother?
    I live in the Northeast. The cost of living here is crazy. My Fi and I have started looking at houses. The cheapest we could find in a “decent” middle class town was 0,000 for a 3 bedroom. That’s for 1300 sq ft too. So, no mini mansion for us. Our mortgage will be well over $ 1,300 by the time we add taxes

    We are discussing having children. I plan on being a teacher and I do plan on working when I have children.

    However, I’m just amazed at the negativity that surronds working mothers.

    In my case, my Fi will not make enough to pay a ,300 mortgage-plus groceries, utilities, our student loan payments and his car payment and car insurance. Plus, basic needs like household repairs (the house we are buying is in need of a new bathroom/kitchen ASAP-it’s very old)

    I can’t see how anyone would call my decision to work wrong, based on our financial situation. We are already moving to a town almost an hour away from where I grew up, b/c it’s a cheaper area.

    • ANSWER:
      No, it is not bad. I am a working mother. I think it’s great that you are willing to put the needs of your family before your own. Good luck to you. Being a stay at home mom doesn’t make you a better parent. there are good working parents & there are bad. there are good SAHM’s & there are bad. it’s the quality of the time you spend with your child. The morals & values you instill in them. if your child comes from a good, loving home, you’re giving him or her the proper foundation.

42. QUESTION:
    Crack in the foundation in our home?
    We have noticed that our 3 year old house has a crack through the middle of the slab its only a hair line wide but i think it goes from one side of the house to the other right through the middle. Our home has a 25 year structural warranty. My question is what will the builders do to fix it when i contact them.?

    • ANSWER:
      USA If the hairline crack is in the floor slab, the contractor probably will do nothing. Concrete cracks. Period. You cannot prevent it. Hairline cracks are common and do not impinge upon the structural integrity of the slab. They are common and expected. There is no fix for them.

      If the crack is more than 1/8″ wide, then there is a more serious problem, which might have been caused by settling or other problems. The contractor will try to get out of any type of repair because if the crack is a wide one, there are serious problems that will cost quite a bit to correct. If the cracks are more than 1/8″ wide, have an inspection done by a structural engineer. Use the engineer’s report to force the contractor to repair the problem ( if it is a contractor problem )

43. QUESTION:
    Cost of Plumbing and Cracks?
    I’m thinking about buying an older house. There are foundation problems and the owner said he will pay to get it leveled, but then we have to take care of the problems that come after being leveled like the cracks in the walls and plumbing. Its a 4 bedroom, 2 bath, 2,546 sq. ft. home. How much do you think it would cost to get the cracks in the walls and plumbing fixed?
    just to do redo the cracks on the house and redo the plumbing after it is leveled, is all..

    • ANSWER:
      The cracks in the walls will be the cheapest fix you can repair very easy with joint compound , puddy knife, sandpaper and paint. I would worry about messing up roof when they start raising foundation to level it. I do not know what area you live in but I am going to make guess of 00 to hire painter come in to paint and repair cracks. You could do it yourself including buying paint for under 0.00 Unless you are getting it for a steal, you need to pass on this house. If you do buy it you need to hire a professional inspector to inspect it. I do plumbing, and I would be afraid of the house the way you described it. To replace the roof on 2546 sq, ft house will cost about ,000, heat & cooling aprox 00 Water heater 0 and the list goes on.

      Good Luck

44. QUESTION:
    Which is a better choice to buy?
    A condo or a multi-family house, for a family of 5.
    Why?

    • ANSWER:
      Condos often have H.O.A.’s–home owners associations. You are required to pay dues to the H.O.A. so they can cover repairs and improvements to the exterior of the property. Some of these repairs can cost quite a large sum of money and have nothing to do with your unit. The group that selects projects has the power to select how the pool of money is spent, you have to attend the meetings to vioce your concerns and objections.

      As far as the multi-family house goes, I would suspect that there are some costs that need to be shared between the owners. Maybe fences between yards, or maintenance on the shared driveway if it needs to have potholes fixed.

      You need to look into the shared expenses that will come along with each type of property. Other than that, I would look at the quality of the roofing, when will it need to be replaced? Look at the foundation, is it cracking, or is the floor not level in either structure. How is the siding and the paint? How long before the exterior will require a new coat of paint? How are each unit heated, how old is the furnace?

      Roofing
      Siding
      Foundation
      HOA’s and dues
      Furnace/heating and cooling

      The associations will collect money for work to your exterior only. It can be problematic if a unit, say above yours, has a pipe burst and floods your unit. You need to figure out who is responsible for the cost of repairs. neighbors never want to pay.

      Be very careful to read and ask questions during your contract signing, maybe even talk to the current residents and ask them how they feel about living there. Collect as much information as you can prior to making any real estate transaction.

      Is the environment a good fit for your family of 5?

      Good luck, I hope you get what you want.

45. QUESTION:
    do you know how much it cost to repair a sinking floor in a old house?

    • ANSWER:
      That depends on what’s causing the floor to sink. If you have a cracked floor joist or two, you might be able to jack the floor up and put a couple of 2 by 10s on either side of the damaged joists. Then you may have just 0 or so into the cost of wood, renting a jack, etc. But if the foundation under a load-bearing wall is damaged, you may have to add a couple of zeroes to the end of that cost.

      You need an experienced builder to look at the problem, and figure out WHY the floor is sinking, before you can work out a cost.

46. QUESTION:
    Rehabbing and wholesaling junkers???
    Just got into wholesaling and rehabbing junkers. Are there any experienced rehabbers who can break down the approx cost of repairs i.e replacing a kitchen, bathroom, electric, siding, furnace, water heater, carpet paint, windows, plumbing etc. We are getting good deals, but our repair costs have been off and we need help???

    • ANSWER:
      A lot of times it is quicker and easier and no more costly to just tear it down and build new. The water, sewer, electric and maybe even a good foundation already there. You can spend a lot of money renovating an old house and still have an old house. Especially if it wasn’t built to modern standards.

47. QUESTION:
    Looking at buying a house built in 1870.?
    I am looking at buying a house in Rhode Island built in 1870. This would be my first home with my fiancee. I didn’t ‘see’ anything wrong, just needed cleaning and paint, the people who lived there has hooked up central AC and had installed brand new windows. But I was wondering what would be some things to look out for? I’m new to Rhode Island, and really like this house, and my fiancee liked it too. So any thoughts are most welcomed. Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Really a wonderful idea, but don’t let love blind you.
      A good home appraiser might be worth a call.
      Basically, like any other house: roof, foundation, mechanical systems like electrical, plumbing, HVAC.

      With such an old house, note that a wood shingled or tiled roof will take extra skill and experience to assess or repair, ditto whatever current heating system is in there if a boiler system, converted coal burner “octopus”, etc, ditto the electrical system if you find a fuse box, ungrounded receptacles (2-hole wall plugs), and a plumbing system that can be a patchwork quilt of galvanized steel, copper, plastic, and so forth. Then there’s the question of whether or not there’s insulation in the walls, attic, and any crawl spaces (Your realtor and/or local utility company can get info or what’s been spent to heat/cool the place, hopefully while occupied.

      Personally, if I found an oil-fired heating system, a 2-wire ungrounded fuse-protected electrical maxed at say 50 amps, and an all-steel plumbing system, I would have to see one heck of a good price, then finance about 20 thousand over it, for the cost of upgrades.

48. QUESTION:
    Cost to fix a slab leak?
    Southern California, concrete slab foundation house 22 years old.
    I have a leak detector coming in on Monday to find the leak with the plumber right behind him.
    My question – since this might be the first of many leaks to follow would it be better to re-pipe the house? How costly is that?
    The leak detector will be about 0. How expensive might the plumber be to repair the leak independent of the flooring costs?
    Thank you.
    Proprenor – I will close the question out tomorrow after I get the estimate from the plumber as an FYI.
    Thank you.
    (File under irony – Last week I had scheduled an appt with a contractor to do some remodeling & now this. Now I’ll just leave the floor a mess & add it to the remodeling bill!

    • ANSWER:
      Your copper pipes are run under your slab, aren’t they..
      I’ve come across this problem many times.
      Only once did the client wish to reroute the pipes.
      You have to find out WHY the pipe broke in the first place.
      They should be buried in sand.
      Not rocky dirt.
      The vibrations of the pipes will eventually wear a hole in it if there’s sharp rocks around.
      Once, I came across a pipe that was obviously run over by a tractor!
      It must have been leaking for years..
      Another few times, there was copper making contact with galvanized metal.
      This causes electrolysis and could be your problem.
      Whatever it is, try to figure out why it broke.
      This will tell you if you should reroute the pipes.
      Also, it’s a big messy job to jack into the slab.
      Also, the price of copper is ridiculous right now.
      You might consider using Pex piping.
      I’m from the old school and I never believed in plastic pipes,
      but after an installer friend and I put it through a series of tests,
      tests that made me believe the pipes were trashed,
      I’ve become a believer.
      Really is amazing stuff..
      Oh, about the price,
      it’s hard to give you an estimate without seeing it,
      and your plumber will probably give you an hourly rate due to all the unknowns,
      I’m thinking 0 would be about the least amount he would charge to go into the slab.
      Good luck to you.

      Edit-
      That’s great!
      It’ll work out fine,
      you’ll see.
      Keep me informed…

49. QUESTION:
    ok this is a long one?
    my hubby and i live with my mom in her parents old house. my brother also lives here. the house is still in my grandads name and i think there is a lein on it. the problem is the house needs foundation repair( going to cost around 11,000) the house has no insurance so forget that idea. anyway my hubby and i have the money to fix it but we dont want to put all of that money into a home that may never be ours. my mom and brother never have any money so its a little unfair for us to pay the whole bill. we have thought about using the money for a down payment for a new home so we can have our own place but the foundation work needs to be done for safety reasons ( it is really bad) so i hate to see my mom or brother get hurt physically by the structure falling. what to do ??? please any advice??

    • ANSWER:
      If you have that kind of money then you need to consider getting your own place and leave the foundation for them to fix.

      You do not need to be living with them anyway. You are married now and both of you need to have your own place.

      Seriously, why would you want to put that much money into fixing something that is not yours and may never be. And why would you want it to be? If the foundation is in that much of a need of repair I bet there is a lot more that needs to be updated as well.

      Get your own place.

50. QUESTION:
    Karma is it a lie or not?
    I’m a good person, i never hurt anyone’s feeling. Never steal, rarely cuss, am honest induvidual.

    Well i do believe in Karma, but its not always true.

    Example, yesterday I found and 40gb flashdrive, it probably cost 100$, i thought about keeping it, but decided to hand it in. Today, I lost my itouch, thats 0. Why is Karma treating me like this. I did good and bad happened to me.

    • ANSWER:
      It is ABSOLUTELY true! I got a demo of it this week. The thing is, I have had it demonstrated before, and have even pointed out to people that the more you are aware of it, the more likely it is to get you. The universe is a big equalizer. Why I still fall into the trap I have no idea.

      Here’s the example of how Universal Law (commonly called karma) will always make you pay for AT LEAST the value of the deception, if not more:

      I called a handyman company to have someone come out to repair my soffits. The estimate was 0, way more than I thought it would cost. I told the guy I had to think about it because I was already ordering a back door that I needed to find out what would cost to install because Home Depot cost too much. He said, “I shouldn’t do this, but if we go around the company, I will do the soffit repair and install the door for 0 total.”

      I went for it, and I should have known better! He did the soffit repair, which was fine, except that he brought his 5-year-old kid with him who drove me batty. I asked him if he could install these retractable screen doors I wanted to get when he came to do the door, and he said it shouldn’t cost much; he bases his fee on hourly. I suggested he look at the display at Home Depot to see how they work, but he said he could do anything.

      When he came to do the door, he said he had materials, but what he didn’t say beforehand was that it was used wood he pulled from another job. His helper didn’t know what he was doing, and the whole thing was just hard to watch, so I played on the computer. It wasn’t like I could stop him, he already tore out the old door.

      He apparently finished the door and had started with the screen doors when he yelled for me. He said he opened both boxes and one of them is missing the rails. I should call the company to get a replacement, but he’ll only be able to do the back door that day. That’s okay. I called, they were sorry, new set on the way. Then he proceeded to *totally* screw up the screen door. He couldn’t figure out the instructions, did it the way he thought it should work (but didn’t), and then had to chip into the door frame he just installed to make it work right. He charged me 0 because it took him two hours (I had to pay for his learning curve and error correction).

      The next day I realized the back door wasn’t closing right, and took out my level and found that it was installed crooked. I emailed him and asked if he checked the level, and he said no. He went by the “reveal” of the previous door. The thing is, I was replacing the door because I had my house foundation adjusted. It’s completely DUH that you would check the level. Even *I* know that (but then my dad was a builder). He said he’d come back and check, but I never replied. I don’t want him here again.

      Beyond that, the jerk left his pile of debris in my garage, and while I was putting it into my trash can, I found the other set of rails at the bottom of the pile. He had cut them too short and lied to me, making me lie to the company to get free ones! But set that aside for just a moment…

      I called Home Depot and said I learned my lesson, and now I need them to fix the door. They said now they can’t do it. It’s considered a repair and they only do new installs. I found another company that will do it, and they said they don’t normally do just one and weren’t sure what to charge, so they were going to charge me what Home Depot charges–9 plus extra materials. But about the screen door, once they take it off, they won’t be able to put it back because the rails will be too short.

      Great! I’m getting a set of rails free from the company having blamed them for not doing it in the first place, and now I have to call and order a set? What it that going to look like, and what is it going to cost me?

      I decided to come completely clean. I wrote a long email to the screen door company explaining that the first call was unwittingly a lie, told them the whole story of the door install, and I wanted to pay for the set they were already sending, and buy another set for the fix. Karma smiles! They wrote back saying they were sorry to hear my tale of woe, but it’s kind of funny. (I wrote it intentionally with some humor.) They were just going to just send me the rails. No charge.

      See how that works?

      Then I called the handyman company that sent me the loser. I told them I was a horrible person and had gone around them at the suggestion of their guy just trying to save some money. She thanked me for calling, but said, “Your biggest problem with doing that is you don’t have our guarantee.” I replied, “Hence the reason I decided to call! The work was crap and I have to have someone else fix it. I learned my lesson. I’m happy to use you in the future, as long as you don’t send Joe.” She said, “Oh, we won’t be sending Joe anywhere anymore.”

      So, while karma was gearing up to slam me with more than I ever would have paid, by coming clean, she only made me pay what I would have if I had been honest and straightforward to begin with. I essentially paid 0 for the soffit job (the total amount paid to the loser for everything and the amount of the company estimate), and the Home Depot price for the back door installation. But I additionally paid a heavy price in anxiety, embarrassment, and misery.

      They say it’s “character building.”

      I suspect that your initial thought, and probably something else, prompted your little tweak there. There isn’t an expiration on past deeds. Sometimes she takes her time, although in my case she brought it down hard and fast over about a week.

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