Home Foundation Repair Methods

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   What are the different types of home foundations?
   We are in the process of trying to sell a house that was built in the late 1960s. A potential buyer commented on the way the foundation was built. There is a space of about 1″ between the floor and walls. I was built this way and isn’t a crack. Is this normal? The buyer is complaining about potential water damage. Thanks!

   • ANSWER:
     Well, I’d have to ask for more details first, before commenting on this particular problem. For example… where is the gap? What is the floor made of? Are there any cracks in the foundation?

     During the 1960’s, here in the US, you began to see more and more houses built on concrete slabs. There are 2 ways to approach a slab home. The first is to pour a complete slab, usually 4 to 6 inches thick, and build everything on top of it. With this method, the floor actually runs under the walls, so there should be NO gap, unless you are measuring a gap between the wall covering, and the floor surface.

     The second method, is the way many ‘post and beam’ buildings, such as barns, are put up. Garages are often done this way too. Whether for a home, garage, barn, whatever, if the grade is sloped, or the pour is below grade, then the walls will be poured concrete to at least above the grade level. Once the footers (and if necessary, the walls) are poured, then the slab is poured INSIDE the perimeter of the foundation. A lot of basement floors are done this way too.
     Ive never seen a 1″ gap between a poured floor and perimeter foundation, or poured wall, though, if you mean the floor stops about 1″ away from the wall, horizontally.

     If the gap you are talking about is between the wall covering, and the floor surface (that is, you would measure the 1″ gap by holding a tape measure up and down), then there may have been some settling, or the wall covering was built with that much gap for a reason (maybe they intended to tile it later?)

     One important question… Have you HAD any water damage, or know about any in the past, if you have not owned the home since it was built?

     And, Its still your house, if you don’t want to deal with this individual, tell them to go find another house to buy.

     Your best option is probably to hire a foundation/concrete repair specialist to come in and look at the situation. They can tell you if there has been any settling, and how to correct it. They can also, if necessary, eliminate that gap for you. In the long run, if you really need to sell the home, this is probably your best option. (They can also tell you if your situation is common for your area)

     Your other choice is to give the buyer such a good price, they’ll buy it knowing they’ll have to correct any problems themselves. Be sure, if you choose that option, to get it spelled out very explicitly in a contract.

     I’d say call in that concrete foundation expert… if nothing is wrong, they can put that in writing for you. If there is a problem, they can tell you how to best go about fixing it.

     Good Luck

2. QUESTION:
   How do you get rid of pesky squirrels?
   Help, we have squirrels with identity crisis, they think they are beavers and moles, they are chewing, making holes in our back pouch and eating the flowers and digging holes in the garden.

   Are there any true, tried and tested home remedies against the squirrels.

   • ANSWER:
     ·Non-toxic squirrel removal begins with figuring out how the squirrels got into your building in the first place.
     ·For successful squirrel control, repairs have to be done to keep them out of your home permanently.
     ·Remove the food supply.
     oIf it is a bird feeder, move it twenty or more feet from the house.
     oClose or cover garbage cans, and if possible make them inaccessible.
     oIf you have a barbecue near the house, keep it clean and covered.
     §Squirrels have been know to eat the drippings and sometimes build a nest if they can get inside.
     §It doesn’t take very long, sometimes just hours.
     ·Maybe the squirrels are digging in your garden, or flower pots.
     oYou can’t stop a squirrel from digging, you can discourage it
     oUse hardware cloth, a heavy metal screening with a half inch square grid
     oCut it to fit around the stem of the plant, and extend it to the edges of the pot.
     oPlace it just below the soil.
     oPut some small rocks near the edge to hold it in place.
     ·If the squirrels are eating your fruit as it ripens, about the only way to stop them is to cage the entire plant.
     oAllowing them to have a little may be a small price to pay.
     oThey can be wasteful, try to accept it as food tasting.
     ·Other devices, such as high frequency sound emitters and animal scents may be effective for a short period of time.
     oThey become ineffective, and you’re out a lot of money.
     oThe use of ” Squirrel Away” or ” Hot Pepper Spray” are also ineffective as deterrents.
     oThey can actually do harm to both squirrels, and other animals, especially when these products get into their eyes.
     §How do you deal with a blind squirrel?
     oThe use of ” moth balls” as a deterrent does work.
     §Temporarily
     §A determined squirrel will get used to the smell, or simply push the ” smelly stuff” out of its way.
     §So if you do try this method, wrap them in a piece of metal screening to form a bag.
     §Then tie the bag to a solid object, make it as difficult as possible for the squirrel to move.
     §You will have to replace the contents every few days for it to be truly effective.
     ·Another problem area can be exposed wires or rubber hose’s.
     oMost common are those on gas grills, and stored motor vehicles.
     oBut, low voltage lighting can be a tempting target for squirrels.
     oWhat most squirrels are trying to do, is clean and sharpen their teeth.
     oThey do this by biting through some material, (normally wood) then they pull their head back so the fibers slide between the teeth.
     oIts the squirrel version of dental floss.
     oMost squirrels stick with small tree branches, but some have found the plastic coated wire or rubber hose does a much better job.
     oThe only way to stop this problem is to trap and relocate the offending squirrel.
     oOnce the squirrel is removed, the problem should end.
     ·Once a squirrel has chewed its way into an attic or crawl space, again the only practical way to remove it is by trapping.
     oOf course repairs should be made immediately to close the entrance hole.
     oIt is also important to cut off the access route to the attic or crawl space.
     oThis may require trimming tree branches that overhang the roof.
     oRemove firewood that may be stacked against the building.
     oFill cracks in foundation walls.
     oEven a one inch hole or crack can make a suitable entrance hole for a determined squirrel.
     oWhen patching wood, use metal plates or flashing where ever possible.
     oOn foundation walls use concrete.
     oAvoid plastic or PVC vents when ever possible.
     ·If your only alternative is to trap, and remove an unwanted squirrel, you should first check with your local government agency.
     oYour City, County, or State may require you to obtain a permit.
     oThere may be certain circumstances when a professional trapper is needed to capture and relocate the animal.
     ·The other very important part of trapping concerns the time of year.
     oThe female squirrel will give birth to a litter of three or four, in the early spring and possibly again in the fall.
     oIf you trap and relocate the mother squirrel, you will surely kill her babies since they can not leave the nest on their own.
     oWhile this alone would be heart breaking, consider what will become of those baby squirrels.
     oThey can cause quite a smell.
     oPlease give this some careful thought before you proceed.
     oIf you’re not sure, please ask for help.
     ·If you are allowed to trap, your next step will be to find a suitable trap.
     oBe sure to find one that is the proper size for the squirrel you wish to trap.
     oToo small of a trap may not completely enclose the squirrel and one too large may not be sensitive enough for a one pound squirrel.
     oTraps should come with instructions to bait and set them, be sure you under- stand and follow the directions.
     §Peanut butter (Skippy crunchy) is considered the best bait for a squirrel.
     §Placing a spoonful on the trip lever usually does the t

3. QUESTION:
   I have a large crack in the concrete foundation wall of my one storey house. How can I repair it meaningfully?
   I want to avoid making it look like a sleazy coverup! It’s visible from the ground about three feet up to the wood siding. Thanks in advance!

   • ANSWER:
     I guess I don’t seee where you said “block wall” Other than that if it is concrete there are a couple of fixes that can be used. They are called out below as quik crete, foam and or caulk.
     I am more inclined to tell you to use an epoxy material to “glue” the crack back together. The crack should be cleaned to remove dirt, dust and insects. Then after it dries put duct tape over both side of the crack to form a dam. Leave access holes about 1′ apart.
     Go to Home depot and buy Set 22 epoxy cartridge and gun and shoot the epoxy into the crack. Patch each hole with a wood plug as yyou work up the crack.
     After 24 hours you can pull the tape and apply a slurry of cement creme over the exposed epoxy to get it to blend.
     NOTE instead of Duct tape to seal the crack a superficial patch about 1/2 inch deep on each side of the crack will work better.
     If the crack is not still moving you can fill the crack with mortar or concrete depending on the width and depth. Mortar will fill a small crack and concrete mix for a wide crack . Quikcrete does make patching mortars that should match good. Same method of damn and fill only one side placing material full depth.

4. QUESTION:
   how do i get rid of caterpillars/centipedes in my bathroom?
   i’ve never really had caterpillars in my bathroom, EVER. how do i get rid of ’em! HELP!

   • ANSWER:
     If you want to get rid of the caterpillars/centipedes , you should follow these steps:

     Tolerate caterpillars and centipedes when possible. If these arthropods are numerous enough to warrant action, first attempt management with one or more of the following nonchemical methods. If these steps are not sufficient, then use insecticides as a last resort.

     Nonchemical Management

     Outdoors: It is very important to make the outside of your home as unfavorable as possible to sowbugs, millipedes, and centipedes to reduce their numbers.

     Caulk or seal cracks and other openings in exterior foundation walls and around doors and ground-level windows by late summer.

     Remove leaf litter and decaying vegetation from around the foundation which provide food and shelter for sowbugs and millipedes. A border of bare soil around the building next to the foundation also helps to make the area a less favorable habitat.

     Trim and thin foundation planting so that ventilation permits the soil to dry more quickly near the foundation.

     Allow the soil near the house to dry between waterings. Roughening the soil surface will speed drying and will work plant materials into the soil where it is unavailable to sowbugs or millipedes.

     Reduce thatch in your lawn to discourage sowbugs and millipedes. This is best done by dethatching in early fall.
     Indoors: Within homes, sowbugs and millipedes often die quickly because the encrionment is usually too dry. When soebugs or millipedes are frequently dound alive, it indicates excessive moisture is present. Use a method to dry the room as a long-term solution. Reduce favorable places for centipedes to hide.

     Remove sowbugs and millipedes with a broom or vacuum cleaner. Kill and remove centipedes as they are seen. Also set out sticky traps (e.g., Roach Motel) on floors where centipedes are often seen to capture them.

     Remove unnecessary boxes, bags, and other clutter that gives centipedes favorable places to hide.

     Caulk or seal behind baseboards and in cracks and crevices where centupedes like to hide.

     Place a dehumidifier in damp areas to sufficiently dry the air. Structural repairs may be necessary to the home and/or yard if a dehumidifier does not keep a room sufficiently dry.
     The continued presence of house centipedes suggests that insects are abundant enough to serve as a food supply. Management of insects, spiders, or other prey may be the best treatment for centipedes. Because centipedes feed on a variety or prey, there may not be a single obvious source of food. Reduction of moisture can also help reduce centipede numbers.

     Chemical Management
     Outdoors: If sowbug or millipede numbers are still higher than you can tolerate despite these nonchemical steps, supplement your efforts with an insecticide application. Apply a liquid insecticide around the building’s foundation and the adjacent ground in a band to help keep pests out. Common insecticides available to the general public for treating building foundations include: bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, and permathrin. You may also choose to apply a granular insecticide to the perimeter, such as deltamethrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, or permethrin. Be sure the specific insecticide you purchase is labeled for outdoor use around buildings. Chemical treatment will be less effective if food and shelter exist near the foundation and there are available cracks and spaces for pests to enter the building. Apply an outdoor insecticide in late summer or early fall when sowbugs and millipedes are first noticed indoors.

     Indoors: Sowbugs and millipedes often die soon after entering homes because it is too dry, making an insecticide application unnecessary. To treat for centipedes, apply an appropriate insecticide where they hide indoors, especially behind baseboards and in cracks and spaces. Select an insecticide that is labeled for indoor use. Common examples of available insecticides include: bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, esfenvalerate, and permethrin. These insecticides normally are purchased in ready-to-use aerosol or liquid forms. Insecticides will provide only temporary management if excessive moisture and a food supply exists.

     Caution: Handle all insecticides with care. Avoid spilling. Wash with soap and water if they are spilled on your skin and after using them. Carefully read follow label directions. Store chemicals in a safe place where children cannot reach them.

     I guess following these steps will help you.

5. QUESTION:
   I found a vertical crack on the outside of my house foundation. What do I do?
   It is a split level house, built in 1962 in a rainy city.

   • ANSWER:
     The caulking could work, unless water is causing the foundation to settle and crack.

     This site describes the cheap “quick fix” way to deal with it, or as my dad would say, the “Mickey Mouse” way:

     http://www.ehow.com/how_5690581_fix-foundation-leaks.html

     If it works, then great. But you’ll probably be repeating this a couple times at least!

     Here are a couple other options. One involves repairing the crack from INSIDE w/low-pressure urethane foam. That’s also a quick and temporary fix.

     A “French drain” is another. It keeps our 100+ y.o. basement dry, but does NOT stop cracking due to frost or water damage on the OUTSIDE (we’ve been lucky there, but ONLY there–the rest of the house is like a seive!). ANyway, here’s a link for those 2 options:

     http://www.repair-concrete.com/foundation-crack-repair.html

     For a more permanent solution

     THEN you need to dig out all round the foundation, down to the bottom, put in a layer of rocks and gravel, then a perforated drain pipe or tile (or replace the one that is not working). THEN you coat the foundation with tar or other waterproofing, like A-tech masonry and brick repair-a Low-VOC sealant, then backfill. Make sure to have your surface slope away from the house for added drainage.

     There is a system called “Drainguard” which replaces the traditional tile, and has strips that run vertically, funneling water down to the drain strip:

     For a picture and description, go here:

     http://www.appliedtechnologies.com/home/drainguard_modular_groundwater.html

     Here’s a brief description of the urethane method (inside or out) vs. excavation:

     “Urethane injections are okay if the crack is small, but if the crack has been ignored and has become large and gaping, it is better to repair it using a drainage tile. For larger leaks outside the house, a more extensive method is employed. A trench is dug at the affected place and the drainage tile is replaced if necessary. The trench is then filled – first with coarse gravel to make it more waterproof and then with the soil. This method is used even when dams spring a leak in their foundation.”

     http://ezinearticles.com/?Foundation-Leak-Repair&id=119864

6. QUESTION:
   How do you fix a crack in cement?
   A tree fell during a storm a couple of weeks ago and left a huge crack on the back patio. Is there any way to fill the crack or cover it? Thanks!

   • ANSWER:
     For serious or exceptionally large concrete crack repairs, you may want to call in a professional, especially if the cracks are appearing around the foundation of your home. A professional can conduct a risk assessment survey to find out if there is structural damage that needs to be addressed.

     Otherwise, fixing the crack itself is not difficult for handy do-it-yourself types.

     For small concrete cracks, 1/8″ (3mm) or less:

     * Use a screwdriver to chip away any flakes or loose concrete.
     * Scour the crack with a wire brush to remove any dirt and debris.
     * Rinse the cracked area using the garden hose.
     * Mix up a small batch of concrete patching compound, available at most hardware stores. Adding a latex additive will allow for the natural expansion of concrete through cold and hot weather.
     * Trowel the compound into the crack using a small putty knife.
     * Smooth the surface while the compound is still moist; concrete compounds begin to set up very quickly.
     * Allow the crack repair to dry thoroughly before walking or driving on the surface.

     While the beginning steps are the same for repairing larger cracks as for small cracks, larger cracks in concrete require the use of a couple of more advanced techniques – caulking or sand packing.

     For large cement cracks, ¼” (6mm) or more:

     * Use a screwdriver to chip away any flakes or loose concrete.
     * Scour the crack with a wire brush to remove any dirt and debris.
     * Rinse the cracked area using a garden hose.
     * If you choose to employ the caulking method, purchase siliconized latex concrete caulk from your local hardware store. Using a caulking gun, force the caulk deep into the crack along the length and breadth of the crack. The caulk will expand to fill the crack, and the nature of the substance will allow for expansion and contraction during weather extremes, cutting down on the frequency of future repairs. The caulking compound will self level so there is no need to smooth the surface, but for large cracks, multiple applications may be needed.
     * If you choose to use the sand packing method, you will need to buy some sand and concrete patching compound, preferably with a latex additive for flexibility. Pour in a layer of sand to help fill the crack, and then apply the patching compound with a trowel. Smooth the surface quickly, and feather the new surface into the existing edges for a finished look.

7. QUESTION:
   What is the preferred method to repair cracks in poured concrete basement walls.?

   • ANSWER:
     you can use an masonary caulk that will move with expansion, available at home depot. Or a hydrolic cement will work just as well depending on the age of the foundation, and the size of the crack. If its a new foundation they used too much water(cause they are lazy) and I feel sorry for you. I would use the masonary caulk if its new, cause its not done settling yet, i can guarantee that. if its old you cna use a hydrolic cement, just clean out the hold with garden hose sprayer, then mix small amount and press in gap, this hardens pretty fast, so about after a minute or 2 brush it down with a medium stiff brush. should look good

8. QUESTION:
   How can I get rid of my acne fast or overnight and keep it away?
   i have had acne ever since the 4th grade and i;ve tried everything but the problem is, i don’t like sticking to a routine and i always forget to put on any any treatment twice a day each day. i need some sort of remedy or something like getting an ice cube and sticking it on a pimple. don’t answer a product like proactive cause i want some sort of remedy made with regular kitchen items or a prcedure to make acne go away.

   • ANSWER:
     Avoid washes or soaps as these strip away natural oils which actually causes skin to produce more oil as your skin realises that it needs to make more oil to make up for what the washes/soaps have taken away, this excess oil is what clogs pores. Instead cleanse with what’s known as the Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) http://www.moogoo.com.au/category13_1.htm which maintains natural oils keeping skin healthy so prevents excess oil being produced by your skin, this prevents acne and blackheads while also keeping skin healthy and moisturised. For OCM mix half extra virgin olive oil to moisturize and half castor oil to cleanse, also try adding a little tea tree oil which is antibacterial. Massage into your face then put a hot face cloth over your face for a minute to open pores, then wipe off oil, any trace amounts are absorbed into skin so won’t be greasy. As strange as it might seems oil is actually good for your skin as it helps prevent water loss and restores barriers, providing essential nutrition to skin that it needs to renew, maintain and repair. Oil is only bad for your skin when it lingers on the surface of your skin where it will collect bacteria and dirt near to your skin where it can get into your pores. Really this works, I love this method but I also know so many other people who had tried every product out there then tried this to find it was the only thing that worked for them.

     If your skin isn’t too bad at the moment try a steam to open pores, do this by putting your head over hot water with a towel over it, another suggestions would be to exfoliate to scrub off dead skin, you could use a sugar or salt scrub which you could make yourself at home (salt or sugar in oil being the most simple method I can think of off the top of my head). Or you could try cosmetic vinegar to exfoliate which will also promote circulation, regulate skins pH and is antiseptic so should leave your skin in better condition – Mix 500ml of apple cider vinegar, 3ml lavender essential oil, 3ml rosemary essential oil, 2ml rosewood essential oil, and 2 tablespoons glycerine (or hell, just the vinegar will do if you don’t have essential oils at home) use as cleanser by adding 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup of water. Try masks too, there are many easy recipes online, see Make Your Own Cosmetics http://www.makeyourcosmetics.com or Pioneer Thinking http://www.pioneerthinking.com try this strawberry acne mask; mix together ½ cup fresh strawberries, 1 egg white, and 2 teaspoons of honey until smooth. To use spread over face and leave for 15 minutes, rinse off with cool water and pat dry. This one is good as strawberries are rich in salicylic acid which is commonly used in acne treatments, honey is also antibacterial.

     Keep yourself healthy, even with only a few days to get your skin ready it will help to eat plenty of fruit, vegetables and drink lots of water, but also avoid salty foods as iodine aggravates acne. Get plenty of exercise, sleep and stay stress-free, also use sunscreen at all times. Make-up isn’t a problem if you use mineral foundation which has great coverage but doesn’t clog pores, also keep your make-up clean as dirty sponges or hands in make-up will cause bacteria which in turn causes spots. Avoid products like hairsprays with synthetic polymers such as vinyl or other plastics, that is because if it gets onto the skin on your face, as it does if spraying all over your head even if aiming for your hair, it will clog pores particularly where there are larger pores such as on the chin or mouth.

9. QUESTION:
   Have you put a 10×10 storage shed 2gether? What all is needed?
   I recently purchased an Arrow Storage shed (10×10). I did not get the floor or foundation kit. Neither come w/the plywood. My boyfriend said I could go to a local home repair store & get the items needed to raise it from the ground & put a floor in it. If anyone has actually put together one of these sheds & made their own floor, please tell me what all I need to buy. And the sizes (of plywood, etc..) would be helpful as well. Thank you!

   • ANSWER:
     Material needed :
     4 bags mix concrete
     Concrete tube 6 feet long or four 18″x6″
     4 anker bolt 5/8″
     2 lumber 4″X4″X10′
     6 lumber 2″X4″X10′
     3 sheet 4’X10’X5/8″plywood
     Nail 6d and 8d
     Install method:
     1-in each corner of 10X10 square deck a hole 18″ depth and 7″to 8″ wide put tub inside of hole and fill with concrete.
     2- Till concrete is wet install anker bolts right in the middle of foundation 6″ upper than top of concrete.
     3- in two side of 4×4 make a 3/4″ hole and install them parallel in foundation .
     4- tied the anker bolts and make sure both side of 4×4 are level.
     5- connect 4×4 with 2×4 each 24″ (4″side vertical between 4×4).
     6- put ply wood on top of frame and nailed .
     7- put storage on floor and secure by screw.

10. QUESTION:
    Any tips to reduce under-eye dark circles using natural methods?

    • ANSWER:
      I’m sure you’ll find a solution here –

      Remedies For Dark Circles

      * An instant dark circles remedy is to use the correct concealer. The shade should be lighter than your foundation. If circles are very dark, choose 2 shades lighter. Great choices can be Revlon New Complexion Concealer, Estee Lauder Smoothing Skin Concealer, Cover Girl Smoothers Concealer, or Neutrogena Smoothing Skin Stick.

      * Apply a good Vitamin K cream. Vita-K Solution gel or Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue help strengthen capillary walls around the dark circles to make them less visible.

      * One should go for laser treatment only if the case is chronic. Lasers can increase production of collagen thereby thickening skin to make dark circles less visible.

      * Home remedies for dark circles can include the following:
      1. Drink plenty of water to combat dehydration.
      2. Wear at least SPF 30 sunscreen to prevent more sun damage.
      3. Get enough sleep.
      4. Leave cold teabags, cucumber or potato slices, or washcloths with ice cubes on eyes for 15 minutes regularly.
      5. Take iron supplements if anemic, but consult your doctor first.
      6. Identify the allergens and avoid them. Whether it be pollen, food, whatever, avoidance is the best solution to this. And avoid rubbing your eyes.

      * Hylexin is the first dark circles eye cream developed for serious dark circles. Featured in several magazines such as Marie Claire, FashionWeekDaily, The Wall Street Journal , Star and Luck.

      * One of the greatest remedies for dark circles is Arbonne’s NutriMinC® RE9 Repair. It’s a corrective puffiness and dark circles eye cream that does additional benefits – firming, moisturizing and repairing the delicate tissue around the eye.

11. QUESTION:
    Floors are slanting away from central fireplace. Settling or Foundation?
    We purchased a home last year. It was built in 1926. The inspector said that the planed doors and minor cracks in the plaster were from normal settling. However, the upstairs floors are slanting away on all sides from the brick that forms the centrally located fireplace. It is very noticable. Plus, the two doors closest to the fireplace wall won’t close because they appear to need another 3/4 in planed away, on top of the 1/2 inch that’s gone already. Also, after some work on the sewer line, the contractor stated that there are no footers. They just leveled the ground and started laying brick. The basement is panelled and I don’t have complete access to the brick to check for cracks. Where I have checked, there are none. Wondering what others thought.

    • ANSWER:
      Sounds like your house has sunk over the years. All houses settle but should not sink because of a footing or other method pertaining to soil condition. With your fireplace, it has a large enough surface area of solid material to act as a footing whereas the outside walls do not have enough surface area to keep from sinking. Thats what footings are for after all. There are companies that can jack up the house and pour new foundations and footings. This is about the only way to do it the correct way. Lay a 4′ level on the floor and measure how far one end is sticking up when its level. Divide the number of feet for the length by 4′ and multiply that by how far the level stuck up to see how much of a drop it is. If your room is 20 feet long and the level is 1″ from being level then your house drops 5″. I’d definately look into some foundation repair and house jacking.

12. QUESTION:
    How to become a better poet?
    I strive to become a better poet, but it seems difficult. I don’t know where to start, what to write about. I have written some poems, but they’re not that good. They’re all right, I suppose. How can I get better? and practice, because I honestly have no clue how I can improve! Please give me methods of how I can practice my poetry?
    Also, I want to touch on more themes than just love, seasons, etc.. XD But I don’t know how I can go about doing that.
    I’ve been inspired by so many poets, yet I can’t improve my poems.

    • ANSWER:
      Be patient. Poetry does not have to rhyme, but rhythm is important.

      You must read as much as you can and as many different styles as you can, classic and contemporary; free verse and structured forms. Two good anthologies: Staying Alive, Real poems for Unreal Times edited by Neil Astley and Garrison Keillor’s Good Poems. Two books on writing that will help guide you are Mary Oliver’s A Poetry Handbook and The Poetry Home Repair Kit from Ted Kooser.

      There are many good sites on line where you can read poetry daily or browse the archives:

      Academy of Americans Poets
      Poetry Daily
      Verse Daily
      The Writer’s Almanac
      Ploughshares
      Rattle
      Poetry 180
      Poetry Foundation

      And if you’re looking for more poets, here’s a very short list. Have fun!

      William Stafford
      Li-Young Lee
      Gary Snyder
      Dorianne Laux
      Lucille Clifton
      Mahmoud Darwish
      Seamus Heaney
      Anna Akhmatova
      Stanley Kunitz
      Yusef Komunyakaa
      Kay Ryan
      Jane Kenyon
      Yehuda Amichai
      Tony Hoagland
      William Matthews
      Emily Dickinson
      Grace Paley
      Wislawa Szymborska
      Donald Hall
      Jimmy Santiago Baca
      Bob Hicok
      Floyd Skloot
      Mary Oliver
      Ruth Stone
      Jane Mead
      Countee Cullen
      WCW
      Robert Frost
      Brendan Galvin
      Linda McCarriston
      AE Stallings
      Dylan Thomas
      Richard Wilbur
      Naomi Shihab Nye
      Ted Kooser
      Galway Kinnell
      Rita Dove
      Mary Jo Bang
      Gjertrud Schnackenberg
      Rhina Espaillat
      Allen Ginsberg
      Charles Simic
      Czeslaw Milosz
      Joy Harjo
      Eavan Boland
      Elizabeth Bishop
      Les Murray
      Federico García Lorca
      Pablo Neruda
      Robert Wrigley
      John Ashbery
      Dean Young
      Major Jackson
      Terrance Hayes
      Patricia Smith

13. QUESTION:
    I want to invest in real estate?
    I have no money what-so-ever and I wanted to know that if I get financing for a mortgage loan for lets say ,000 and I find a house that I want to rehab and it cost ,000, and it needs ,000 in repairs, Am I able to get the whole ,000 for the house and for the repairs and keep the remaining ,000 in reserve for the mortgage payments until I am able to find a buyer for the house? Please no, Yes or No answers. Please explain in detail if there is anything else I can do if this is not an option. Thanks in advance.

    • ANSWER:
      You’re really asking two questions that are important when you are thinking about beginning real estate investing. First, can you get a mortgage for the whole cost of the house plus fix-up costs. Second, do you have any other options? The answers are “No” and “Yes”. Here are the details:

      First, traditional mortgage lenders will not loan you 100% of the value of the home, and they typically will not loan you money for repairs. There are lenders, known as hard-money lenders, that will do this, but the cost of borrowing their money is very high and, unless you have a lot of rehabbing experience, I do not recommend hard money.

      Second, you DO have other options for beginning real estate investing, and you should seriously consider them. Learn how to easily tie up the deal and then wholesale it to another investor, at least for your first few deals. You can earn really good money finding and wholesaling property to experienced investors, and often they will teach you what they know while you’re building up your credit and bank account.

      There are other methods of investing without using any of your own money or credit, like lease-option and subject-to, but by far the best way of beginning real estate investing, in my opinion, is wholesaling. This will give you a foundation in property values and repair costs in your area before you risk any of your own money.

      All the best,
      Tom Dunn

14. QUESTION:
    How can I become a better poet?
    strive to become a better poet, but it seems difficult. I don’t know where to start and what to write . I mean, I’ve written some poems, but they’re not that good. They’re all right, I suppose. How can I get better? and practice, because I honestly have no clue how I can improve! Please give me methods of how I can practice my poetry?

    Also, I want to touch on more themes than just love, seasons, etc.. XD But I don’t know how I can go about doing that.
    I’ve been inspired by so many poets, yet I can’t improve my poems.

    • ANSWER:
      Poetry does not have to rhyme, but rhythm is important.

      You must read as much as you can and as many different styles as you can, classic and contemporary; free verse and structured forms. Two good anthologies: Staying Alive, Real poems for Unreal Times edited by Neil Astley and Garrison Keillor’s Good Poems. Two books on writing that will help guide you are Mary Oliver’s A Poetry Handbook and The Poetry Home Repair Kit from Ted Kooser.

      There are many good sites on line where you can read poetry daily or browse the archives:

      Academy of Americans Poets
      Poetry Daily
      Verse Daily
      The Writer’s Almanac
      Ploughshares
      Rattle
      Poetry 180
      Poetry Foundation

      And if you’re looking for more poets, here’s a very short list. Have fun!

      William Stafford
      Li-Young Lee
      Gary Snyder
      Dorianne Laux
      Lucille Clifton
      Mahmoud Darwish
      Seamus Heaney
      Anna Akhmatova
      Stanley Kunitz
      Yusef Komunyakaa
      Kay Ryan
      Jane Kenyon
      Yehuda Amichai
      Tony Hoagland
      William Matthews
      Emily Dickinson
      Grace Paley
      Wislawa Szymborska
      Donald Hall
      Jimmy Santiago Baca
      Bob Hicok
      Floyd Skloot
      Mary Oliver
      Ruth Stone
      Jane Mead
      Countee Cullen
      WCW
      Robert Frost
      Brendan Galvin
      Linda McCarriston
      AE Stallings
      Dylan Thomas
      Richard Wilbur
      Naomi Shihab Nye
      Ted Kooser
      Galway Kinnell
      Rita Dove
      Mary Jo Bang
      Gjertrud Schnackenberg
      Rhina Espaillat
      Allen Ginsberg
      Charles Simic
      Czeslaw Milosz
      Joy Harjo
      Eavan Boland
      Elizabeth Bishop
      Les Murray
      Federico García Lorca
      Pablo Neruda
      Robert Wrigley
      John Ashbery
      Dean Young
      Major Jackson
      Terrance Hayes
      Patricia Smith

15. QUESTION:
    Renting Houses out–how many before i Can Be Full time Landlord?
    how many homes or units do I have to rent out do make enough profit where I can be a full-time landlord?
    I have seed money of 200,000
    landlord—how in the world did you pay off 30 houses to rent out?!

    • ANSWER:
      Your question would only be answered by you determining what it would take for you to earn enough per month to be able to live the kind of lifestyle you are currently living or aspire to live. Therefore no one on this forum would be able to answer that question.

      It appears as if you would want to educate yourself about the responsibility of being a landlord, and what it take to become a landlord.

      Having 0,000 to invest is not a requirement, it is intelligent in how you invest this 0,000 and be able to start your real estate investment on solid ground. You just don’t go out with a certain amount of money and instantly buy properties and become a landlord.

      Therefore you would, before you part with any of the 0,000 become educated on the purchase of rental properties. In order to become familiar with the purchase of rental properties you should purchase several books from your local bookstore about the subject. While you are there see if you might find a few books on being a landlord.

      You should consider joining the local National Apartment association. This is a group for landlords that would assist you with the local customs about renting units as for the amount of rent you would or could charge. They would also have many rental forms available for your use at a cost, I am sure a discount is available for members. The would also know about the eviction laws along with how to legally evict someone. There might be vanilla legal services available for you.

      Consider joining the local real estate investment group. There are lots of local information about investing you would learn from this group.

      You might would want to crawl before you start running toward the finish line. Therefore you might consider a 4 unit complex as your first rental adventure. You could live in one and rent out the other 3. This would be very educational to you and most beneficial as you grow your properties and hopefully your monthly rental income.

      A 1-4 unit is consider the same as a single family house in the eyes of FHA, therefore you might would want to apply for an FHA mortgage loan. The down payment could be as low as 3.5%. Since you would be residing in one unit this real estate purchase would be considered an owner occupied property, thus the interest rate would be at what a home owner would be. Therefore your monthly payment would be lower. In order to be successful you would want the lowest overhead as possible.

      Once you have resided in the unit for a total of 2 years you have then full filled the FHA requirement and may then move on to another 4 unit with the same set up. You now would have 7 units as rentals while living in the other.

      2 years later do the same thing once again, this would give you a total of 11 rental units and once again you would reside in one.

      After this you would make a decision as to if you would want to duplicate this again or simply purchase you a house and additional rentals to include moving up to what are called commercial rentals those that are above 4 units.

      You would have laid a solid foundation, worked your you know what off, know the business from having hands on by living in your units for at least 6 years.

      You would want to keep as much of the 0,000 in the bank as possible. This is called a reserve for any unforeseen repair situation.In becoming a landlord you will need this reserve.

      Most investors invest for leverage, tax advantages and future appreciation in the property. Therefore in most cases you would want to invest as little of your money as possible, then there are those make sense deals where the norm does not work, you would have to approach these type investments on a case by case basis, so stay alert and be knowledgeable about each investment.

      This is one method you might consider.

      I hope this has been of some benefit to you, good luck.

      “FIGHT ON”

16. QUESTION:
    How to get rid of Spiders in my house!?
    I have had loads of spiders in my house. House spiders. I hate them. Does anyone know a good way to get rid of them?

    • ANSWER:
      Heya,
      Firstly get to the route cause of the problem..why do you have do many spiders in your house? Do you leave the windows open at night, is your house pritty cluttered with places for them to hide, see this question here for good advice http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081106222956AALZHvP which also discusses vacuuming..it’s a good idea that once you get rid of all the spiders you currently have in the house that you repeat this of clearing the spiders out and then make sure that you thoroughly vacuum all of your house so that you can get rid of the sacks that the spiders have laid their eggs in, continue to repeat this process until you can’t see any more spiders after about a month. If you still have lots of spiders in your house here are a few more reasons why: (unfortunately I don’t have the time to summarise this for you but here are some websites that maybe helpful)
      http://www.ehow.com/info_8311699_do-spiders-come-inside-house.html
      http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/ipm/msg0814001314108.html
      http://www.washington.edu/burkemuseum/spidermyth/
      How to prevent them:
      http://www.ehow.com/how_16646_rid-home-spiders.html
      1
      Practice good sanitation for control. Vacuum and clear away all webs, being sure to remove any egg cases. Move and dust frequently behind furniture, stored boxes and appliances.

      2
      Eliminate the spiders’ food sources – including flies, cockroaches and moths – and they will be less likely to return. Check and repair all screens, and seal cracks.

      3
      Remove piles of wood, trash and debris from around the foundation of your home. Be sure to wear protective clothing: long-sleeved shirts, long pants, gloves and boots.

      4
      Hose off the outside of your home to destroy webs and egg cases.

      5
      Replace outdoor lights with yellow or sodium-vapor lightbulbs, which are less likely to attract insects and then spiders.

      6
      Shake out clothing that has been stored before putting it on.
      http://howtogetridofspiders.blogspot.com/
      Hope this helps =)
      And remember that if you do decide to use any kind of pesticide e.t.c these can be poisonous to pets. Best to thoroughly try all natural methods first.
      Oh and this might help lol
      http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/spider-catcher/
      Good luck, and remember that spiders are just living their lives like us and they don’t mean to scare people and I’m sure that if they knew that they were scaring/annoying us they’d go to avoid being killed, so please don’t kill them- try all natural ways first.

17. QUESTION:
    what can i use to get rid of my acne for good?
    ive already used pro active neutrogena clean&clear acnefree lorel and even mary kay wat else could possibly work? thanks
    i have given each time to work

    • ANSWER:
      Avoid washes or soaps as these strip away natural oils which actually causes skin to produce more oil as your skin realises that it needs to make more oil to make up for what the washes/soaps have taken away, this excess oil is what clogs pores. Instead cleanse with what’s known as the Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) http://www.moogoo.com.au/category13_1.htm which maintains natural oils keeping skin healthy so prevents excess oil being produced by your skin, this prevents acne and blackheads while also keeping skin healthy and moisturised. For OCM mix half extra virgin olive oil to moisturize and half castor oil to cleanse, also try adding a little tea tree oil which is antibacterial. Massage into your face then put a hot face cloth over your face for a minute to open pores, then wipe off oil, any trace amounts are absorbed into skin so won’t be greasy. As strange as it might seems oil is actually good for your skin as it helps prevent water loss and restores barriers, providing essential nutrition to skin that it needs to renew, maintain and repair. Oil is only bad for your skin when it lingers on the surface of your skin where it will collect bacteria and dirt near to your skin where it can get into your pores. Really this works, I love this method but I also know so many other people who had tried every product out there then tried this to find it was the only thing that worked for them.

      If your skin isn’t too bad at the moment try a steam to open pores, do this by putting your head over hot water with a towel over it, another suggestions would be to exfoliate to scrub off dead skin, you could use a sugar or salt scrub which you could make yourself at home (salt or sugar in oil being the most simple method I can think of off the top of my head). Or you could try cosmetic vinegar to exfoliate which will also promote circulation, regulate skins pH and is antiseptic so should leave your skin in better condition – Mix 500ml of apple cider vinegar, 3ml lavender essential oil, 3ml rosemary essential oil, 2ml rosewood essential oil, and 2 tablespoons glycerine (or hell, just the vinegar will do if you don’t have essential oils at home) use as cleanser by adding 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup of water. Try masks too, there are many easy recipes online, see Make Your Own Cosmetics http://www.makeyourcosmetics.com or Pioneer Thinking http://www.pioneerthinking.com try this strawberry acne mask; mix together ½ cup fresh strawberries, 1 egg white, and 2 teaspoons of honey until smooth. To use spread over face and leave for 15 minutes, rinse off with cool water and pat dry. This one is good as strawberries are rich in salicylic acid which is commonly used in acne treatments, honey is also antibacterial.

      Keep yourself healthy, even with only a few days to get your skin ready it will help to eat plenty of fruit, vegetables and drink lots of water, but also avoid salty foods as iodine aggravates acne. Get plenty of exercise, sleep and stay stress-free, also use sunscreen at all times. Make-up isn’t a problem if you use mineral foundation which has great coverage but doesn’t clog pores, also keep your make-up clean as dirty sponges or hands in make-up will cause bacteria which in turn causes spots. Avoid products like hairsprays with synthetic polymers such as vinyl or other plastics, that is because if it gets onto the skin on your face, as it does if spraying all over your head even if aiming for your hair, it will clog pores particularly where there are larger pores such as on the chin or mouth.

18. QUESTION:
    tell me a quick method to get fair and get rid of dark circles bcoz i have a big party at home?
    na

    • ANSWER:
      I’m sure you’ll find a solution here –

      Remedies For Dark Circles

      * An instant dark circles remedy is to use the correct concealer. The shade should be lighter than your foundation. If circles are very dark, choose 2 shades lighter. Great choices can be Revlon New Complexion Concealer, Estee Lauder Smoothing Skin Concealer, Cover Girl Smoothers Concealer, or Neutrogena Smoothing Skin Stick.

      * Apply a good Vitamin K cream. Vita-K Solution gel or Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue help strengthen capillary walls around the dark circles to make them less visible.

      * One should go for laser treatment only if the case is chronic. Lasers can increase production of collagen thereby thickening skin to make dark circles less visible.

      * Home remedies for dark circles can include the following:
      1. Drink plenty of water to combat dehydration.
      2. Wear at least SPF 30 sunscreen to prevent more sun damage.
      3. Get enough sleep.
      4. Leave cold teabags, cucumber or potato slices, or washcloths with ice cubes on eyes for 15 minutes regularly.
      5. Take iron supplements if anemic, but consult your doctor first.
      6. Identify the allergens and avoid them. Whether it be pollen, food, whatever, avoidance is the best solution to this. And avoid rubbing your eyes.

      * Hylexin is the first dark circles eye cream developed for serious dark circles. Featured in several magazines such as Marie Claire, FashionWeekDaily, The Wall Street Journal , Star and Luck.

      * One of the greatest remedies for dark circles is Arbonne’s NutriMinC® RE9 Repair. It’s a corrective puffiness and dark circles eye cream that does additional benefits – firming, moisturizing and repairing the delicate tissue around the eye.

19. QUESTION:
    Home Remidies For Ance And Stretch Marks?
    Ance:
    Ive heard of toothpaste and baby powder, any others?? i just want to wipe it out and get my face cleaned naturally.
    Stretch Marks:
    Ive tried expensive creams like Strivectin SD But it only worked alittle. Does anyone have an amazing Secret ingredient?

    • ANSWER:
      With acne best thing is firstly to avoid washes or soaps as these strip away natural oils which actually causes skin to produce more oil as your skin realises that it needs to make more oil to make up for what the washes/soaps have taken away, this excess oil is what clogs pores. Instead cleanse with what’s known as the Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) http://www.moogoo.com.au/category13_1.htm which maintains natural oils keeping skin healthy so prevents excess oil being produced by your skin, this prevents acne and blackheads while also keeping skin healthy and moisturised. For OCM mix half extra virgin olive oil to moisturize and half castor oil to cleanse, also try adding a little tea tree oil which is antibacterial. Massage into your face then put a hot face cloth over your face for a minute to open pores, then wipe off oil, any trace amounts are absorbed into skin so won’t be greasy. As strange as it might seems oil is actually good for your skin as it helps prevent water loss and restores barriers, providing essential nutrition to skin that it needs to renew, maintain and repair. Oil is only bad for your skin when it lingers on the surface of your skin where it will collect bacteria and dirt near to your skin where it can get into your pores. Really this works, I love this method but I also know so many other people who had tried every product out there then tried this to find it was the only thing that worked for them.

      If your skin isn’t too bad at the moment try a steam to open pores, do this by putting your head over hot water with a towel over it, another suggestions would be to exfoliate to scrub off dead skin, you could use a sugar or salt scrub which you could make yourself at home (salt or sugar in oil being the most simple method I can think of off the top of my head). Or you could try cosmetic vinegar to exfoliate which will also promote circulation, regulate skins pH and is antiseptic so should leave your skin in better condition – Mix 500ml of apple cider vinegar, 3ml lavender essential oil, 3ml rosemary essential oil, 2ml rosewood essential oil, and 2 tablespoons glycerine (or hell, just the vinegar will do if you don’t have essential oils at home) use as cleanser by adding 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup of water. Try masks too, there are many easy recipes online, see Make Your Own Cosmetics http://www.makeyourcosmetics.com or Pioneer Thinking http://www.pioneerthinking.com try this strawberry acne mask; mix together ½ cup fresh strawberries, 1 egg white, and 2 teaspoons of honey until smooth. To use spread over face and leave for 15 minutes, rinse off with cool water and pat dry. This one is good as strawberries are rich in salicylic acid which is commonly used in acne treatments, honey is also antibacterial.

      Keep yourself healthy, even with only a few days to get your skin ready it will help to eat plenty of fruit, vegetables and drink lots of water, but also avoid salty foods as iodine aggravates acne. Get plenty of exercise, sleep and stay stress-free, also use sunscreen at all times. Make-up isn’t a problem if you use mineral foundation which has great coverage but doesn’t clog pores, also keep your make-up clean as dirty sponges or hands in make-up will cause bacteria which in turn causes spots. Avoid products like hairsprays with synthetic polymers such as vinyl or other plastics, that is because if it gets onto the skin on your face, as it does if spraying all over your head even if aiming for your hair, it will clog pores particularly where there are larger pores such as on the chin or mouth.

      As for stretch marks commonly used for stretch marks are vitamin E oil and cocoa butter, a lot of products are available for pregnant women to avoid stretch marks, and most body moisturizers contain these ingredients too but watch out for products with more cocoa butter – I recommend The Body Shop’s body butter, they smell nice and cost less than some products. In raw form vitamin E oil and cocoa butter can be found in health or specialist stores, however vitamin E oil tends to be sticky and cocoa butter can take a while to melt down to body temperature to rub in. Bio oil is a good choice too for stretch marks as well as for general skincare, it can be bought from most pharmacies but is expensive so I recommend trying in discount stores which sometimes sell a cheaper version that works just as well. Plain old olive oil rubbed into your skin daily is great and cheap, this is less to heal stretch marks and more of a way to prevent any more stretch marks appearing as it moisturizes your skin and leaves it in totally wonderful condition. Chamomile is supposed to be good, it breaks up scar tissue so it can help the swelling and depressions level out, I’ve not tried it myself, but it may be worth trying along with some vitamin E oil or rosa mosqueta oil. Comfrey root is known for breaking down scar tissue too, the sooner you apply it the better and apply it a few times a day, you should notice a difference from within a few days to a few months, Burt’s Bees make a good comfrey salve. Pure rose hip seed oil is also supposed to be good on fresh scars but also useful on older scars too, although it’s heavy so best to apply at night.

20. QUESTION:
    can anyone name ALL of the santa anita racetrack horse vets?
    i want to know of the names can someone fill me in????

    • ANSWER:
      As far as I know all Southern California racetrack vets have access to Santa Anita’s hospital.

      quoting source

      Track Veterinarians have access to unique Southern California Equine Foundation with hospitals at Santa Anita and Hollywood Park
      By Tracy Gantz

      As Dr. Jeff Blea monitored the chestnut gelding’s breathing under anesthesia, Dr. Rick Arthur drilled a screw into the horse’s right front cannon bone to repair a fracture. They finished the procedure without complications, and expect the gelding to be able to successfully return to racing.

      The two veterinarians were working in the surgery of the Southern California Equine Foundation hospital at Santa Anita, a facility that stands ready for scheduled surgeries such as this one and emergency procedures when necessary. Because the hospital lies at one end of the racetrack’s barn area, the gelding could go to the surgical prep area directly from his stall.

      “Horses need to be operated on in their natural environments, in their homes,” said Dr. Ted Simpson, another Southern California equine veterinarian who often performs surgeries. “When we can take them right out of their stalls into the hospital, there is less stress and less trauma than having to move the horse.”

      Once the horse recovers enough to travel, he can be moved to a nearby lay-up farm.

      Arthur, Blea, and Simpson are just three of the racetrack vets who regularly use the SCEF facilities. Not only do all racetrack vets have access to Santa Anita’s hospital, which includes an X-ray room, they can get nuclear scintigraphy scans at the SCEF Nuclear Imaging Facility, located in a separate building on the Santa Anita backstretch. The SCEF also has a hospital across town at Hollywood Park, where vets can perform surgeries and order X-rays. The Hollywood Park setup includes a lab for blood work, with a daily courier to Santa Anita.

      Racetracks around the country have varied methods of taking care of injuries. Nearby privately owned equine hospitals often perform the task, but Southern California vets, racetrack management, and horsemen took the lead in the mid-1970s to establish not-for-profit hospitals right on the backstretch.

      “We provided a cooperative hospital that anyone on the racetrack can use,” said Arthur, who served as the SCEF’s president during the early 1990s. “It can provide services to owners at a very, very reasonable cost. For example, we can nuke scan for about two-thirds the cost at normal equine hospitals.”

      Arthur currently serves on the board of the Oak Tree Racing Association and is also involved with developing the Medication and Testing Consortium’s national medication policy. He was instrumental in establishing the SCEF’s Nuclear Imaging Facility in 1993.

      “The SCEF enables us to have facilities here that all of us individually would never have been able to have,” said Dr. Helmuth Von Bluecher, another former SCEF president and a longtime racetrack veterinarian. “We’ve also been able to keep ahead of diagnostic developments in such things as radiology, nuclear scintigraphy, and surgery.”

      As a not-for-profit organization, the SCEF can dedicate all of its efforts to its mission of helping the racehorse. For a fee, veterinarians can use the foundation’s surgery and diagnostic equipment for their clients’ horses.

      “We try to keep our fees as reasonable as possible,” said Karen Klawitter, the SCEF’s hospital administrator. “That way veterinarians can keep prices down for owners and trainers as well.”

      The SCEF most recently has purchased a state-of-the-art digital radiography system, the first of its kind available for equine veterinarians featuring mammography-quality images.

      “We’re still streamlining it,” said Blea, the current president of the SCEF. “Eventually, we’ll be able to e-mail the images anywhere in the world.”

      Another recent development has been Simpson’s use of Acutrak headless titanium compression screws in surgery, building on the laboratory studies of Dr. Larry Galuppo at the University of California at Davis. The SCEF and its research arm, the Dolly Green Research Foundation, funded Galuppo’s study, and Simpson joined Southern California vets Dr. Sylvia Greenman and Dr. Joseph Dowd in helping with the research.

      “Horses heal well with these screws,” Simpson said. “I actually find them preferable in slab fractures and short condylar fractures. They seem to provide more stability. They’re titanium, so they aren’t as irritating as stainless steel. They pull two pieces of bone together as they tighten, and they don’t need to come out. There is no head to irritate the soft tissue, and they don’t seem to break as easily.”

      That cooperation with U.C. Davis is even easier these days because Dr. Gregory Ferraro, the director of Davis’ Center for Equine Health, was one of the SCEF’s founders.

      continued at:
      http://www.calracing.com/press_releases.php?f=WhereHorsesBenefittheMost.html

21. QUESTION:
    A crack in my ceiling…Is this anything to worry about?
    I have a home that is 8 years old in fairly good condition. This past week we noticed a crack in the ceiling about 18 inches long. It isn’t wide and might be directly over the taping that was done for the sheetrock. I don’t see anything unusual outside on the walls and roof, nor under in the crawl space under the room with the crack.

    Could this be caused by normal settling of the ground?

    • ANSWER:
      All homes settle to some extent, even after a period of years, if there has been some kind of change in ground recently, such as a major freeze, or thaw. If your home is a mobile home, it is even more likely to settle, depending on which type of foundation method you chose for it.

      If the crack is in a straight line, then yes, it is most likely along a tape joint. Cracks will appear there when the sheet rock shift in either direction, lenthwise, or apart. The critical question is how wide is the crack? If it is only a hairline crack, you can run a little Dap Tub & Tile caulk into the crack with your finger (comes in white, or almond, and I find the white blends in with most white ceilings pretty well). If it is wider than that, up to 1/8th inch wide, then you can simply apply a little drywall compound (also called joint compound), which you can purchase in a small tub, already mixed. You will want to prime over the new joint compound, before painting. If it is wider than 1/8th inch, then you want to put a new piece of mesh tape over the crack, and then apply the joint compound. You may need a couple of applications of joint compound, if it shrinks as it dries (very likely)

      This type of repair should take less than 15 minutes to fix.

      Now, something to consider along with the crack in the ceiling, to help you determine if more needs to be done on the house – have you noticed any doors or windows sticking lately, that did not stick before?
      Do you notice any humps in the floor, or can you tell if you are walking ‘uphill’ in any portion of the home? (Ive walked through enough mobile homes, I can usually tell if a home is out of level very much, just by walking through it).

      You can check a home’s level very easily, using a water level, or a laser level. Laser is more accurate, but if you have obstructions, its more hassle. A water level, built properly, will be accurate to within 16″ over 100ft length.

      Feel free to email me with more details, if you’d like to discuss this further.

      Have Fun

22. QUESTION:
    what is arthritis and how to cure it or live with it ?
    want to know how you get it and while you got it how do you live with it ?

    • ANSWER:
      Arthritis is an illness that can cause pain and swelling in your joints. Joints are places where two bones meet, such as your elbow or knee. Some kinds of arthritis can cause problems in other organs, such as your eyes, or in your chest. It can affect your skin, too.
      Problems may be caused by inflammation , a swelling that can include pain or redness. They are telling you that something is wrong.Genetics
      Exactly how much heredity or genetics contributes to the cause of arthritis is not well understood. However, there are likely genetic variations that can contribute to the cause of arthritis.
      Age
      Cartilage becomes more brittle with age and has less of a capacity to repair itself. As people grow older they are more likely to develop arthritis.
      Weight
      Because joint damage is partly dependent on the load the joint has to support, excess body weight can lead to arthritis. This is especially true of the hips and knees that can be worn quickly in heavier patients.
      Previous Injury
      Joint damage can cause irregularities in the normal smooth joint surface.
      Some people may worry that arthritis means they won’t be able to work or take care of their children and their family. Others think that you just have to accept things like arthritis.
      It’s true that arthritis can be painful. But there are things you can do to feel better.
      There are several kinds of arthritis. The two most common ones are rheumatoid arthritis and osteoarthritis .
      The earlier an accurate diagnosis is made and treatment started, the better. Early treatment can often mean less joint damage and less pain. Your doctor may recommend a combination of treatments that may include medication, weight management, exercise, use of heat or cold, and methods to protect your joints from further damage. See your doctor for an early diagnosis and immediate treatment plan!
      Protect your joints
      Avoid excess stress on your joints. Use larger or stronger joints to carry things. Assistive devices can make tasks at home and work easier. Staying close to your recommended weight also helps relieve damaging pressure on hips and knees.
      Get moving
      Exercise helps lessen pain, increases range of movement, reduces fatigue and helps you feel better overall. Your doctor, a physical therapist, or other specially trained health professionals can show you range-of-motion exercises and strengthening exercises that are good for arthritis. The Arthritis Foundation also offers water exercise and other classes. Contact your local office for details.
      Pick, pour or peel
      If you are looking for a tasty healthy treat, reach for an orange – or a tall glass of orange juice. Why? Recent research has shown the importance of vitamin C and other antioxidants in reducing the risk of osteoarthritis and its progression. Another bonus: oranges and other citrus fruits are good sources of folic acid, which can help alleviate the side effects of the arthritis drug methotrexate and reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease in women who have lupus.
      Check out your options
      In the past two years, the FDA has approved several drugs for rheumatoid arthritis, osteoarthritis and other arthritis-related diseases. If your current medication isn’t working as well as you’d like – or if it’s causing unacceptable side effects – ask your doctor about these new treatment options.

23. QUESTION:
    Theres a rat in my kitchen what am I gunna do?

    • ANSWER:
      Traps:
      There are a few different types of traps that can be used, but they aren’t always the most effective or humane way to get rid of rats. They are however one of the most effective and safest methods when kept out of the reach of pets and kids.

      So rats don’t become wary of spring-loaded traps, begin by baiting a number of traps without actually setting them. Place food on the triggers, and bait the traps for two or three night in a row. Once the vermin are comfortable coming in contact with the traps, add bait as directed, and carefully set them.

      Wooden spring-loaded traps can be baited with foods such as peanut butter, bread soaked in bacon grease, or raisins. Sticky foods are the best choice since it takes effort to remove them, but harder morsels can be tied to triggers with small pieces of thread.

      Rats are intelligent and have a keen sense of smell. They are naturally suspicious of the human scent, so wash and rinse your hands well, or consider wearing latex gloves before handling and baiting traps. It may be necessary to bait spring-loaded traps several times before achieving success.

      Glue traps don’t require baiting, and they are easy to use. Protective backing is peeled away to expose strong-holding adhesive. Rats that become trapped in the glue usually die within two or three days.

      Glue traps are considered a cruel method of eradication since death isn’t instant, but adhesive traps are by far the safest method in homes and buildings with pets and kids. Although they don’t require dangerous poisons or spring-loaded metal wires that can inadvertently snap shut and inflict injury to people and pets, consider using instantaneous methods of eradication or live methods rather than ways that cause prolonged suffering.

      Live traps work very well for trapping rats in homes and storage buildings. They are baited with the same foods as spring-loaded traps, but live traps don’t inflict injury. Trapped rats can be relocated to areas where they won’t find their way back into homes and other locations occupied by people.

      Place traps along walls in back of stored items, along ledges, and other places where rats have left their calling cards. Place them well out of reach of kids and pets, and check them often. Pest control requires persistence, and with a little ingenuity and perseverance, you can get rid of rats once and for all.

      Poison:

      Just like glue traps, poisons are one of the least desirable methods of rat eradication and control. Poisons pose a danger to pets and children when improperly placed. Besides coming in direct contact with dangerous toxins, pets that ingest poisoned vermin also become poisoned. Poison kills rats and other rodents by causing internal bleeding over a period of time, and poisoned rats bleed to death while searching for water outside the nest.

      Prevention:

      The best method of controlling rats is preventing them in the first place. Examine the foundations of your home and storage buildings. Look for openings where rats could gain entry, and repair any cracks or gaps. Fill in areas around pipes and plumbing with steel wool and caulking.

      Don’t provide rats with food and shelter by letting trash accumulate on your property. Store trash in covered containers, and remove it on a regular basis. Haul away old appliances, and keep grass and weeds mowed. Make your property and yard less accommodating to rats, and they won’t make themselves at home in your home.

24. QUESTION:
    definitions for the following terms that relate to industrialization?
    1. commercial expansion
    2. subsistence farming
    3. mass production
    4. cottage industry
    5. laissez-faire economics
    6. division of labor
    7. enclosure movement
    8. socialism
    9. labor union
    10. factory system
    11. utilitarianism
    12. consumerism
    13. social reform
    14. interchangeable parts

    • ANSWER:
      Too many questions for an attempt to earn 2 0r 12 points. Anyways, I give definitions and some cases a little more for better understanding..
      1. commercial expansion
      is the expansion of an economic activity (like agriculture or home-knit sweaters) so that extra output over the subsistence requirement can be sold in the market with a view to earn income in the form of profit.
      2. subsistence farming
      is Farming that provides enough food for the farmer and his family but not enough for sale. By comparison, commercial farming is farming that provides products for sale.
      Form of farming in which nearly all the crops or livestock raised are used to maintain the farmer and his family, leaving little surplus for sale or trade. Preindustrial agricultural peoples throughout the world practiced subsistence farming. As urban centers grew, agricultural production became more specialized and commercial farming developed, with farmers producing a sizable surplus of certain crops, which they traded for manufactured goods or sold for cash. Subsistence farming persists today in sub-Saharan Africa and other developing areas.
      3. mass production
      Manufacturing or processing of uniform products in large quantities using interchangeable parts and machinery. Mass production is either a wholly automated process or a series of short, repetitive procedures i.e., manufacture of goods in large quantities by machinery and by use of techniques such as the assembly line and division of labor.
      Application of the principles of specialization, division of labour, and standardization of parts to the manufacturing of goods on a large scale. Modern mass-production methods have led to such improvements in the cost, quality, quantity, and variety of goods available that the largest global population in history is now sustained at the highest general standard of living ever. The requirements for mass production of a particular product include the existence of a market large enough to justify a large investment; a product design that can use standardized parts (see interchangeable parts) and processes; a physical layout that minimizes materials handling; division of labour into simple, short, repetitive steps (see time-and-motion study); continuous flow of work; and tools designed specifically for the tasks to be performed. See also assembly line.
      4. cottage industry
      A usually small-scale industry carried on at home by family members using their own equipment.
      A small, loosely organized, yet flourishing complex of activity or industry: “The study of Gandhi has become a virtual cottage industry in the last 30 years, producing schools, museums, foundations and more than 400 biographies”
      “Cottage industries” is a term that was used prevalently during the eighteenth and nineteenth and centuries to describe the home-based system of manufacturing. This term is also used today to refer to goods or services that are produced at home. Sewing, craft production, sales and marketing, typing, bookkeeping, and auto repair are just a fewexamples of home-based employment.
      5. laissez-faire economics
      An economic doctrine that opposes governmental regulation of or interference in commerce beyond the minimum necessary for a free-enterprise system to operate according to its own economic laws.
      Noninterference in the affairs of others.
      [French : laissez, second person pl. imperative of laisser, to let, allow + faire, to do.]
      Laissez-faire (IPA: [lɛse fɛr]) is a French phrase meaning “let do” or “hands off”. From the French diction first used by the 18th century physiocrats as an injunction against government interference with trade, it became used as a synonym for strict free market economics during the early and mid-19th century. It is generally understood to be a doctrine that maintains that private initiative and production are best allowed to roam free, opposing economic interventionism and taxation by the state beyond that which is perceived to be necessary to maintain peace, security, and property rights.[1] In this view, it is not the job of the state to intervene in the economy in an attempt to reduce inequality, poverty or protect worker’s rights (except to the extent that they are covered under property rights). Free-market anarchists take the idea to its full length by opposing all taxation. Laissez-faire also embodies free trade, namely that a state should not use protectionist measures, such as tariffs, in order to curtail trade through national frontiers. In the early stages of European and American economic theory, laissez-faire economic policy was contrasted with mercantilist economic policy, which had been the dominant system of the United Kingdom, Spain, France and other European countries, during their rise to power.The term laissez-faire is often used interchangeably with the term “free market.” Some use the term laissez-faire to refer to “let do, let pass” attitude for matters outside of economics. Laissez-faire is associated with classical liberalism, libertarianism, and Objectivism.[citation needed] It was originally introduced in the English-language world in 1774, by George Whatley, in the book Principles of Trade, which was co-authored with Benjamin Franklin. Classical economists, such as Thomas Malthus, Adam Smith and David Ricardo did not use the term—Bentham did, but only with the advent of the Anti-Corn Law League did the term receive much of its (English) meaning.
      The laissez-faire means that the neoclassical school of economic thought holds a pure or economically liberal market view: that the free market is best left to its own devices, and that it will dispense with inefficiencies in a more deliberate and quick manner than any legislating body could. The basic idea is that less government interference in private economic decisions such as pricing, production, consumption, and distribution of goods and services makes for a better (more efficient) economy. Economist Adam Smith in his book ‘Wealth of Nations’ argued that the invisible hand of the market would guide people to act in the public interest by following their own self-interest, since the only way to make money would be through voluntary exchange, and thus the only way to get the people’s money was to give the people what they want. Smith pointed out that one does not get one’s dinner by appealing to the brother-love of the butcher, the farmer or the baker. Rather one appeals to their self interest, and pays them for their labour.
      6. division of labor
      is Separation of the work force into different categories of labor; dividing the work required to produce a product into a number of different tasks that are performed by different workers. ie, Dividing a job into many specialized parts, with a single worker or a few workers assigned to each part. Division of labor is important to mass production.
      Division of labour is the specialisation of cooperative labour in specific, circumscribed tasks and roles, intended to increase efficiency of output. Historically the growth of a more and more complex division of labour is closely associated with the growth of trade, the rise of capitalism, and of the complexity of industrialisation processes. Later, the division of labour reached the level of a scientifically-based management practice with the time and motion studies associated with Taylorism. For specialisation to be productive, it requires: Enough demand on accounted mass production of A standard product.
      7. enclosure movement
      Division or consolidation of communal lands in Western Europe into the carefully delineated and individually owned farm plots of modern times. Before enclosure, farmland was under the control of individual cultivators only during the growing season; after harvest and before the next growing season, the land was used by the community for the grazing of livestock and other purposes. In England the movement for enclosure began in the 12th century and proceeded rapidly from 1450 to 1640; the process was virtually complete by the end of the 19th century. In the rest of Europe, enclosure made little progress until the 19th century. Common rights over arable land have now been largely eliminated.
      8. socialism
      Any of various theories or systems of social organization in which the means of producing and distributing goods is owned collectively or by a centralized government that often plans and controls the economy. or,
      The stage in Marxist-Leninist theory intermediate between capitalism and communism, in which collective ownership of the economy under the dictatorship of the proletariat has not yet been successfully achieved.
      9. labor union
      is An organization of wage earners formed for the purpose of serving the members’ interests with respect to wages and working conditions. or, An organization of workers formed to promote collective bargaining with employers over wages, hours, fringe benefits, job security, and working conditions.
      labor union, association of workers for the purpose of improving their economic status and working conditions through collective bargaining with employers. Historically there have been two chief types of unions: the horizontal, or craft, union, in which all the members are skilled in a certain craft (e.g., the International Brotherhood of Carpenters and Joiners of America); and the vertical, or industrial, union, composed of workers in the same industry or industries regardless of their particular skills (e.g., the United Automobile, Aerospace, and Agricultural Implement Workers of America). A company union is an employer-controlled union having no affiliation with other labor organizations.
      10. factory system
      is A concentration of the processes of manufacturing—fixed capital, raw material, and labour—under one roof, in order to provide the mass production of a standardized product or products. The factory system superseded cottage industry because it made possible economies of scale, a standardized product, and the deskilling of labour, which increased efficiency and increased the power of the employer. Mass production also meant that specialized machines could be used to their maximum effect.
      The Factory system was a method of manufacturing first adopted in England at the beginning of the Industrial Revolution and later spreading abroad. Fundamentally, each worker created a separate part of the total assembly of a product, thus increasing the efficiency of factories. Workers, paid by wage, and machines were brought together in a central factory. All the processes of production would be carried out under one roof, and would continue as long as it was practical. Inconclusively, Richard Arkwright is the person credited with being the brains behind the growth of factories. After he patented his spinning frame in 1769, he created the first true factory at Cromford, near Derby, England. The factory system was a new way of organizing labor made necessary by the development of machines which were too large to house in a worker’s cottage. Working hours were as long as they had been for the farmer, that is, from dawn to dusk, six days per week. The factory system first spread outside of England when Samuel Slater brought the secret of the water frame to the United States.
      11. utilitarianism
      The belief that the value of a thing or an action is determined by its utility. or,
      The ethical theory proposed by Jeremy Bentham and James Mill that all action should be directed toward achieving the greatest happiness for the greatest number of people. or,
      The quality of being utilitarian: housing of bleak utilitarianism.
      Utilitarianism is the ethical doctrine that the moral worth of an action is determined solely by its contribution to overall utility. It is thus a form of consequentialism, meaning that the moral worth of an action is determined by its outcome. Utility — the good to be maximized — has been defined by various thinkers as happiness or pleasure (versus suffering or pain), though preference utilitarians like Peter Singer define it as the satisfaction of preferences. Utilitarians tend to consider the interests of any entity capable of experiencing pleasure or pain.
      The most famous definition of utilitarianism equates it with the belief that, ‘That action is best which procures the greatest happiness of the greatest number’. Although generally associated with Bentham, who quoted it with approval, the statement was first made by Francis Hutcheson in his Inquiry into the Original of our Ideas of Beauty and Virtue (1725). The doctrine that actions should be judged on their capacity to produce happiness is an ancient one, recognizable as the classical Greek eudaemonism. However, it was only in the secular and commercial milieu of eighteenth-century Britain that it became an important and respectable philosophy, if not yet a dominant one.
      12. consumerism
      is The movement seeking to protect and inform consumers by requiring such practices as honest packaging and advertising, product guarantees, and improved safety standards. or,
      The theory that a progressively greater consumption of goods is economically beneficial. or
      Attachment to materialistic values or possessions: deplored the rampant consumerism of contemporary society.
      Consumerism is a term used to describe the effects of equating personal happiness with purchasing material possessions and consumption. It is often associated with criticisms of consumption starting with Karl Marx and Thorstein Veblen.In economics, consumerism can also refer to economic policies that place an emphasis on consumption, and, in an abstract sense, the belief that the free choice of consumers should dictate the economic structure of a society.
      Often, consumerism also means Public concern over the rights of consumers, the quality of consumer goods, and the honesty of advertising. The ideology came into full focus in the 1960s after President John F. Kennedy introduced the Consumer Bill of Rights, which stated that the consuming public has a right to be safe, to be informed, to choose, and to be heard. The primary concern of this force is to fulfill and protect the rights of consumers articulated by President Kennedy more than three decades ago.
      13. social reform
      is a movement intended to bring about social and humanitarian reforms. Social reform is a reform that aims to make gradual change, or change in certain aspects of society rather than rapid or fundamental changes. Reformists’ ideas are often grounded in liberalism, although they may be rooted in utopian, socialist or religious concepts. Some rely on personal transformation; others rely on small collectives, such as Mahatma Gandhi’s spinning wheel and the self sustaining village economy, as a mode of social change. A reform movement is distinguished from more radical social movements such as revolutionary movements. Reactionary movements, which can arise against any of these, attempt to put things back the way they were before whatever successes of the new movement(s), or prevent any such successes in the first place.
      14. interchangeable parts
      are… Identical components that can substitute one for another, particularly important in manufacturing. Mass production, which transformed the organization of work, came about by the development of the machine-tool industry by a series of 19th-century innovators. With precision equipment, large numbers of identical parts could be produced at low cost and with a small workforce.
      Interchangeable parts are components of any device designed to specifications which insure that they will fit within any device of the same type. This streamlines the manufacturing process, since all pieces are guaranteed to fit with all others, and it similarly creates the opportunity for replacement parts.
      Prior to the 18th century, devices such as guns were made one at a time by gunsmiths, and each gun was unique. If one single component of a weapon needed a replacement, the entire weapon either had to be sent back to an expert gunsmith to make custom repairs or discarded and replaced by another weapon. Around 1778, Honoré Blanc began producing some of the first firearms with interchangeable parts. Blanc demonstrated in front of a committee of scientists that his muskets could be assembled from a pile of parts selected at random. Other inventors to implement the principle included Henry Maudslay, John Hall, and Simeon North.
      In the U.S., Eli Whitney saw the potential benefit of developing “interchangeable parts” for the firearms of the United States military, and thus, around 1798, he built ten guns, all containing the same exact parts and mechanisms, and disassembled them before the United States Congress. He placed the parts in a large mixed pile and, with help, reassembled all of the weapons right in front of Congress, much like Blanc had done some years before.
      The US Congress was immensely impressed and ordered a standard for all United States equipment. With interchangeable parts, the problems that had plagued the era of unique weapons and equipment passed, and if one mechanism in a weapon failed, a new piece could be ordered and the weapon would not have to be discarded.
      The principle of interchangeable parts quickly made mass production in all sorts of industries relatively easy. It was based on the use of templates, applied by semi-skilled labor using machine tools instead of the traditional hand tools. With the introduction of the assembly line at the beginning of the 20th century, interchangeable parts became ubiquitous elements of manufacturing.

25. QUESTION:
    Load Bearing Wall?
    Does anyone please have and idea of how much it would roughly cost to removed a load bearing wall, which is between the kitchen and dining room, to make it a kitchen dinner? The wall is 114 inches wide.

    Many thanks

    • ANSWER:
      Since this wall is less than 10′, the new members will fit withing the 3 1/2 space of the existing wall, plus 1.

      First step will be to remove the wall covering (drywall probably) and determine whats gotta happen with any mechanicals in the wall. Step two is to build a temporary support wall on both sides of the existing wall. These two steps should take a lead and a helper 1 day Budget = 0, plus disposal.

      AFTER the mechanicals have been dealt with(cost = at least 0), remove the existing wall studs and elements, manufacture and install a beam (I would think 3 – 2 x 10’s laminated would carry the load, the dicey and hard to price part of the job comes now. You (or the builder) have to determine the how to get the bearing points (the ends) structured as to transfer that load to the foundation. I would budget 0-1000 for this phase. Cutting the floor joists above and installing a header is possible, But I would think it would at least double (probably triple) the cost of the beam method

      Then the finishing. Drywalling around the beam would be cheapest. But there are alternatives to this but the cost will rise. Other factors to consider in costing this job will include floor repair/replacement, re-trimming, removal of debris, repairs to adjoining walls, clean up etc.

      This, as any job is, nearly impossible to estimate with out seeing the home. Because there are so variables, such as: are the walls drywall or plaster and lathe; 8′ foot ceilings?, any existing kitchen cabinets to deal with etc etc. . . .

      Hope this helps . . . .

26. QUESTION:
    Is it foundation trouble?
    I am looking at homes and need to know if this is foundation trouble because I have an FHA loan, and I have heard they are pretty picky about the house. The home I like may have foundation problems. The dirt has come away from the back of the home and the small porch has separated from the back door, but the house itself is still on its slab, unmoved. You can see under the house because of this, and the concrete slab is fine. The home is on a hill and the back yard has retaining walls so it makes me think the backyard is eroding. There are no cracks inside or outside the home. Is it a major problem? I will try to get pictures soon.

    • ANSWER:
      This sounds more like the porch has settled, and not a foundation problem with the home itself. Still you can insist on its being repaired before you purchase the home.

      The most likely repair for this type of settling, would be what is called ‘mudjacking’, or ‘helical pier’ repairs. With the mudjacking, a foundation repair company would pump a cement slurry (a thick mud, made of cement) under the porch, bringing it back up to the level it was originally at. This is also a good method to re-level concrete patios, and floors (such as a garage floor). With a ‘helical pier’ type of repair, the company would literally, dig a small hole, 2 or more feet deep, next to the porch (or foundation, if that was what had settled), and they would install a ‘jack’ that is operated by filling it with cement.

      These types of repair are usually done by the same business, and this is much more common than it was, say 30 years ago. You can easily find a contractor close to your home by searching for “mudjacking”, or using a site like ServiceMagic their link is here – http://www.servicemagic.com/

      Again, this sounds more like a problem with the porch itself, and not the foundation – but a foundation repair company is who you would call to fix it.

      The other option would be to tear off the porch, and rebuild it – if it is a small porch, this might be cheaper than repairing.

      Good Luck

      Oh, just an afterthought here – If you have an FHA loan, then the FHA will send an inspector out to look at the home before you buy it, and they would flag something like this for repairs before they would approve the purchase. If you can see under the foundation of the home itself, then it is likely they would require that to be filled in too.

      Good Luck and Best Wishes

27. QUESTION:
    whats the beauty secret tip to get rid of acne?

    • ANSWER:
      Avoid washes or soaps as these strip away natural oils which actually causes skin to produce more oil as your skin realises that it needs to make more oil to make up for what the washes/soaps have taken away, this excess oil is what clogs pores. Instead cleanse with what’s known as the Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) http://www.moogoo.com.au/category13_1.htm which maintains natural oils keeping skin healthy so prevents excess oil being produced by your skin, this prevents acne and blackheads while also keeping skin healthy and moisturised. For OCM mix half extra virgin olive oil to moisturize and half castor oil to cleanse, also try adding a little tea tree oil which is antibacterial. Massage into your face then put a hot face cloth over your face for a minute to open pores, then wipe off oil, any trace amounts are absorbed into skin so won’t be greasy. As strange as it might seems oil is actually good for your skin as it helps prevent water loss and restores barriers, providing essential nutrition to skin that it needs to renew, maintain and repair. Oil is only bad for your skin when it lingers on the surface of your skin where it will collect bacteria and dirt near to your skin where it can get into your pores.

      I love this method but I also know so many other people who had tried every product out there then tried this to find it was the only thing that worked for them, since switching to OCM my skin has been totally clear, not at all greasy or dry and looks great.

      If your skin isn’t too bad at the moment try a steam to open pores, do this by putting your head over hot water with a towel over it, another suggestions would be to exfoliate to scrub off dead skin, you could use a sugar or salt scrub which you could make yourself at home (salt or sugar in oil being the most simple method I can think of off the top of my head). Or you could try cosmetic vinegar to exfoliate which will also promote circulation, regulate skins pH and is antiseptic so should leave your skin in better condition – Mix 500ml of apple cider vinegar, 3ml lavender essential oil, 3ml rosemary essential oil, 2ml rosewood essential oil, and 2 tablespoons glycerine (or hell, just the vinegar will do if you don’t have essential oils at home) use as cleanser by adding 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup of water. Try masks too, there are many easy recipes online, see Make Your Own Cosmetics http://www.makeyourcosmetics.com or Pioneer Thinking http://www.pioneerthinking.com try this strawberry acne mask; mix together ½ cup fresh strawberries, 1 egg white, and 2 teaspoons of honey until smooth. To use spread over face and leave for 15 minutes, rinse off with cool water and pat dry. This one is good as strawberries are rich in salicylic acid which is commonly used in acne treatments, honey is also antibacterial.

      Keep yourself healthy, even with only a few days to get your skin ready it will help to eat plenty of fruit, vegetables and drink lots of water, but also avoid salty foods as iodine aggravates acne. Get plenty of exercise, sleep and stay stress-free, also use sunscreen at all times. Make-up isn’t a problem if you use mineral foundation which has great coverage but doesn’t clog pores, also keep your make-up clean as dirty sponges or hands in make-up will cause bacteria which in turn causes spots. Avoid products like hairsprays with synthetic polymers such as vinyl or other plastics, that is because if it gets onto the skin on your face, as it does if spraying all over your head even if aiming for your hair, it will clog pores particularly where there are larger pores such as on the chin or mouth.

28. QUESTION:
    Do I need to repair foundation?
    I had a foundation repair company come out and they told me I needed to get it fixed because the front of the house was .5 to 1.7 inches dropped in some areas. I do have many hairline cracks on the sheet rock and 2 big ones on the ceiling and one one the wall. My home is 12 years old. The strange thing is he told me if we don’t normally water the foundation consistently it is better to not water at all. (you got me) . I have a feeling all repair companies will say I need to fix it. Is the drop really that significant to have to fix?

    • ANSWER:
      By reducing and defining the amount of settlement from your previous question it would appear that although you have an issue it is not a catastrophe. Since you have big cracks in the wall and ceiling corrective work would appear appropriate. The cracks will not get better without repair work. You may want to follow the suggestions I made previously about how to proceed.
      If your house was a slab-on-grade foundation it would be possible to have a mud jacking company come in and lift the slab back into position and then proceed with the wall and ceiling repairs. But as I remember you noted the foundation contractor had suggested the use of piers to correct the settlement. This would indicate that either you have a cast in place concrete or concrete block perimeter foundation with probably a crawl space under your floor. By jacking up the floor to its proper elevation and installing piers for support the settlement can be corrected. That from what we know from the info provided that would probably be the most economical solution.
      By watering the foundation consistently you would have been trying to take over for mother natures responsibilities in keeping the soil at a consistent moisture content to keep the moisture under your footings at a consistent level. I have no idea how you could do this successfully since you would have to adjust your amount of watering on the weather conditions and the soil moisture content below the footings. The surface moisture content is not indicative of the moisture under the footings in that they are a foot or two under the surface. The moisture at that level is also effected by the ground water level that rises and falls. Don’t try to mess with mother nature you have no idea how much or how little water is needed under the footings.
      It would appear with that much settlement in only one area of your house, that area of your house was built on top of a clay seam that was not isolated by use of a good granular fill which would have minimized any settlement due to clay shrinkage if the clay should dry out more than its condition when the footing was placed. It is understood that when clay drys out it can shrink in volume and its load bearing capacity will actually increase in its new lower position under the footing. So when it drys out the footing will settle and move to a lower position. The footing and support wall will both crack to allow the settlement. Now lets say you add enough water to saturate the clay under the footing. Although the clay will have a tendency to expand, with the footing load on the clay, the path of least resistance for the clay to expand is to the sides and down from the footing. It will not raise the footing. (This is different from the mud jacking method where adequate pressure is applied to the mud jacking material to push to the sides and down with adequate pressure until adequate resistance is achieved that it is easier to lift the footing than to go out the sides or down.) To continue, now you have wetter clay under the footing than is normally there and the water dissipates to the surrounding soil. With the water leaching out the clay drys out. What happens when clay drys? It shrinks and your house’s footing drops again. This is why once you get settlement on a clay soil it will continue to settle unless the problem is corrected, mud jacking or additional support such as a pier / piers on a stable base, not clay. If the clay is down deep enough under the foundations or the piers its poor foundation support qualities are neutralized for all intents and purposes.
      The repair companies will tell you it needs repaired because if all is factual information that you provided the problem will not fix itself and can get worse. If you have the foundation issues fixed, I would wait for at least a couple weeks before I started any interior wall and ceiling repairs until the house stabilizes. It will take a little time, winds rain, temp changes etc. until the house settles into position.

29. QUESTION:
    How do I approach legal remedy for a failed dry basement system? What is the best approach? ?
    I have a newly constructed home in Ohio (2008). During the construction a contractor for Tuff and Dry was used. Part way through construction we noticed the basement walls and floor were wet. The contractor agreed that their system failed. They sated that the repair method was their choice. I wanted the foundation dug around but they felt it would be too complicated and costly. They chose to resolve the problem from the inside. So weep holes were drilled into my block. The basement floor was dug up along the edge of half my basement and panels were attached to the walls. There have been two instances this year that my basement has flooded. The contractor believes it to be my issue. My walls are wet and the flood comes up from the floor.

    • ANSWER:

30. QUESTION:
    Structural engineering question?
    First the background: I want to build a house using CEBs, Compressed Earth Blocks. (If you want to know more about the CEBs check out thes link: http://www.adobemachine.com)

    They are considerably heavier than conventional building materials. Each block is 10″wide x 14″long x 4″ thick. They will be stacked with the 10″ side facing out and thus will make a 14″ thick wall course. The exterior walls will be two courses thick with a small chase between them to allow for electrical and plumbing. The interior walls will be one course.

    Each of the blocks weighs about 40 pounds. Stacked as stated above that will create a wall that weighs 14,400 pounds per 10′ x 10′ section for each course and thus a 28,800 pound 10′ x 10′ section for the double course.

    My main question is: what is the formula to determine the thickness of the of footings and slab given the width of the walls and the weight?

    Once the floor plan is finalized and the interior walls laid out and the lengths of the exterior walls determined I want to be able to estimate what the foundation work and materials are going to run me.

    I would also like to build this with a flat top roof (a little slope for rain runoff of course,) and I would like the roof to be make of concrete. How do I do that? Do you pour it in forms in place or do you precast it in sections and then crane it into place? How thick can/should it be (I want it to be tornado proof?) What sort of support is required during construction and afterwards. The interior walls will provide some support but the rooms will be large and I am wondering if I will have to have support beams from the floor up or will I need support beams spanning from wall to wall at the ceiling (I-beams?)

    Also should I use foundation support piers (like the foundation repair guys drive down to bedrock when they repair a broken or cracked foundation?) I was wondering if that would help support something as heavy as this house is going to be.

    • ANSWER:
      These are all great questions! I really do enjoy designing the structures for all kinds of buildings, especially custom residential homes. This seems like it will be a great project by the way you describe it.

      First of all I want to suggest that you have a licensed structural engineer to work along side you during your design process. The questions you have posed here have fairly complex answers and you may not have thought of all the implications of your design materials yet.

      I would also like to suggest that you employ a geotechnical engineer to investigate the soil on your property. They will be able to determine just what types of loads can be supported and by what types of foundation. They can also help with suggested procedures for preparing the sub grade soil prior to laying a foundation if it needs any type of enhancement or modification to best serve your home’s needs.

      Lastly, I would suggest having an architect review your final design, they are aware of building codes for your area that you may have missed in your initial layout. They might even offer some good suggestions for details on how to waterproof the exterior of your building.

      Anyway, your initial calculation about wall weight is off by a lot, a 10′ x 10′ section of brick should only weigh 4,200 lbs based on your weights and brick sizes. Plus you didn’t account for the weight of your roof, nor for snow, construction, or wind loads. And it seems you are only concerned about the roof being tornado proof… that kind of a design needs to be a whole system approach (walls, foundation, roof, doors, windows, etc.). FEMA puts out some documents to recommend how to create a safe-room, but they don’t make for very pretty homes. I would instead suggest a single safe room made to FEMA standards or better and let the rest of the house blow away. Tornado force winds are too strong for typical construction methods.

      My guess is you would rather not pay the fees for design professionals to come along side and help… but if the building falls down a concrete roof will be devastating. Besides, your local jurisdiction likely requires that you adhere to a building code like the International Building Code. Rather than learn it on your own, along with all the structural design equations, I suggest building a design team to help your dream become a reality.

      Please contact me directly (check my profile for email link) and I’ll help walk you through some of the basics to help get your basic design off the ground before you go to talk to a local professional.

31. QUESTION:
    Finding the right grant?
    Hi, I am a college student with an assignment to present a grant proposal. I would like to find a grant that would help to fund the Van Duyne Cider Mill. Here is a link that explains more about its situation: http://montville.patch.com/articles/apple-mill-a-montville-tradition

    It is basically the oldest cider mill in the United States that has remained in the family of its original owners. It makes cider using the same machinery and method that it did over 100 years ago. It is something that gives my otherwise typical rich, snooty town some charm and culture. And their cider is delicious.

    The thing is, it is NOT a non-profit organization, the 2 operators of the mill do not live in it (it is not their home), and they are in need of funding to physically repair the building and keep the mill running. I have yet to find a grant that would fit this situation…

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I am continuing to scour the internet for any possible grants that this project can apply for.

    • ANSWER:
      That’s going to be a tough one. Best shot at it is a private foundation.

      Good luck to you. 🙂

      Josh

32. QUESTION:
    A concrete answer (front stoop)?
    Our 20-year-old front stoop is surrounded by brick (like the
    crust in a pie). The concrete center of the stoop (5’x5′) has
    gradually settled front to back by about 1 1/2″ to 2.” Can
    fresh cement bring the stoop up to snuff? If not, is there
    a concrete-like material loaded with plasticisers that would
    grip the surface of the old concrete and look attractive? In
    the end, will the old cement have to be broken up and be
    carried away only to be replaced entirely? I do not intend this
    to be a DIY project.

    • ANSWER:
      I would recommend a contractor that deals specifically in ‘mud jacking’.

      A contractor that does this type of concrete repair will come to your home, and pump a cement slurry under your existing concrete, to bring it up to the proper level.

      This method is used to repair foundations, or slabs.

      You can probably find someone in your area that does this type of work, it has become quite common.

      Good Luck

33. QUESTION:
    how to troubleshoot air quality problems in your home?
    I’m trying to find out how to improve the air quality in my home

    What steps should I take? How do I troubleshoot problems if I have any?

    I have a gas/co2 meter – and it usually measures 213 or 215 – I don’t know if that is a problem or if that is standard – I’ve spoken to people about it they think that’s the standard that it comes with. I don’t know

    I’ve done a radon test but I don’t have the results back. The last time it was 2.5 – and I’m not sure if that is something I should do anything about.

    I try to vacuum regularly

    I have considered having the ducts cleaned

    I have had people work on the furnace and hot water heater and supposedly that is all fixed now

    I don’t have any plants but I’ve considered getting them

    I try to keep things clean but that has been a problem for me – I am considering hiring someone to help me

    any more ideas?

    thanks so much

    • ANSWER:
      “Air Quality” can be a pretty broad item to define. My original answer was too long, so I’m trimming it down – my apologies if it seems terse, or not enough details – there’s a lot of info to cover.

      Add/change your furnace filter to a HEPA filter (it will require changing more often)

      Use a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter on it

      Use ‘dust trapping’ tools, like the Swiffer product line, or attachments on your vacuum to do regular dusting.
      Items that absolutely must be blown out with air, should be done outside.

      For those that do not have a central air system, purchasing one or more air filtration units will help. Ionization filters CAN cause problems with computers or other sensitive electronics, and they will leave a black residue on the walls, especially near electrical outlets, which will have to be wiped off. Ionization purifiers cost less in the long run to operate – but with more and more things that have complex electronics inside them it may be necessary to stick with filtration units – again, use HEPA filters whenever possible.

      Steam cleaning your central air system’s ducts can remove the dust, AND help kill any germs hiding in there.

      Avoid using candles, incense, and wood or gas burning fireplaces on a regular basis. They’re fine for special occasions, just don’t use them everyday – they do add smoke particulates as well as a small amount of carbon monoxide to the air.

      ANYTHING that has an open flame creates carbon monoxide. This includes candles, gas appliances, kerosene heaters, oil lamps, and of course, things that use engines, like a generator. Portable electric generators, and kerosene heaters put out a LOT of carbon monoxide, and these items CAN be deadly. You cannot smell carbon monoxide, so it is important to have monitors/alarms in place.

      NEVER use a generator inside an enclosed space.

      All mobile home manufacturers that I am familiar with will VOID your home’s warranty, if they discover you are using a kerosene heater. Kerosene heaters put out carbon monoxide, AND add moisture to the air, which can lead to other long term problems such as mold.

      IF you have a gas water heater, a gas/wood burning fireplace, there should be a fresh air supply to those units, bringing air in from an area outside the living space. Many new gas central air furnaces will bring combustible air down from the attic space. The purpose of bringing in the ‘fresh’ air to the appliance is a safety factor, it brings in fresh oxygen for the unit to burn, as opposed to taking it out of the air you breathe in the living space. This technology has been adopted in many areas as part of the building codes, but older homes often do not have them.

      As for Radon – Radon gas is naturally occurring in any kind of underground space. The best and simplest solution is to exchange the air on a regular basis. This can be done with a fresh air intake similar to those found on central air furnaces, or those supplying gas appliances, and fire places. You need an ‘exchange’ of air, bring fresh air in, old air out. In large factories, this is done with heat exchangers, to help minimize temperature differences between the outside and inside air. Another option is to bring air down from the attic space, like the modern furnace units do, and vent the old air to the outside. This method is a good choice if you live in a cold climate area.

      Exchanging the air in the basement has an added benefit, in that it also helps reduce the moisture there, which, in turn helps eliminate, or at least slow down, mold growth. Mold thrives on moisture – the more moisture there is, the faster it will spread.
      If your basement walls are always damp, check into ways to help stop water penetration, or condensation. Sometimes this is as simple as painting the walls with a moisture blocking paint, or as complex as excavating around the foundation to repair/install drainage, or sealers. At the very least, add a dehumidifier to the basement to help reduce the moisture content in the basement’s air.
      Pipes and ducts that tend to collect condensation (cold water lines, or central air ducts when running the air conditioner) should be insulated and wrapped with a moisture barrier to help prevent condensation. Any leaks, even slow drips, should be repaired as soon as possible.

      You may want to consider using pillow and mattress covers on your beds too, such as those used by asthmatics, to prevent dust build up in them, dead skin cells, and even dust mites. I know this is a simple step that helps asthmatics sleep better.

      I’m sure there are some things I’ve missed here, or situations which could call for particular solutions, but this should give you a good point from which to start looking at your home’s air quality.

      Good Luck

34. QUESTION:
    Replace or repair brick foundation?
    Looking to buy a home. Needs a lot of work including a repair or replacement of brick foundation in the center of an 8 foot wall. This foundation is part of a home addition. A tree (about 5 inch diameter) is now growing right against the house. This is causing the brick foundation to bow in about 3-4 inches inward in about a 3′ area on the wall. I have the manpower and tools available to separate the addition and lift it if needed. The house is getting gutted anyway. House has partial dirt basement the size of the addition. I do not possess the know-how to repair or replace foundation. The other foundation walls are excellent so if possible I would only like to repair or replace that one wall. Is it possible to repair a brick foundation to save money or is it going to cost me 10k in replacement block foundation for the entire addition?
    Peter W….Yes to all. sounds promising then….fingers crossed.

    • ANSWER:
      OK – a few questions:

      The foundation wall is neither settling nor shows any sign of damage other than from the tree roots, correct?

      There are no sags or tilts within the addition that are attributable to foundation settlement past or ongoing, correct?

      You have no intention of adding additional load to the repaired foundation after you are done – other than conventional household loads and conventional household furniture – no water beds, concert grand pianos, 1,000 gallon aquariums, hot-tubs and so forth?

      If all of the above are true and correct, it is likely that the footings are intact. If the footings are intact, you are perfectly able to replace the damaged section of the foundation (after suitably supporting the addition) using conventional mean-and-methods and similar materials.

      If not, or if you have any doubts, call in a structural engineer familiar with your area and the soils and structures around you. For a relatively small fee you can have peace-of-mind.

35. QUESTION:
    Moved into older home June 2007 in Ontario, Canada just found out previous owner hid water issues in basement?
    We bought a home in April to 2007 in Ontario, Canada and moved in June 2007. We recently had alot of wet spots on our basement floor and had our insurance company come out. They found that the previous owners had placed a thick rubber liner between the carpet and cement in a 15×15 ft. area where we are now aware that there is a water issue due to a foundation wall. This method of hiding this from us worked for them however we are now in a situation where there is some mold under the rubber they placed in the basement. In Ontario, Canada title insurance is almost mandatory when you by a home, does title insurance cover anything like this? If not, what other recourse do I have? Thanks for your help.

    • ANSWER:
      title insurance is to protect you from paperwork hiccups, not this sort of thing
      but if you went through a realator, there will be a property disclosure that would have any known defects listed… if its not listed and you can prove they knew, you have recourse you can take with the law. you would probably have to have an estimate for repairs but not renovations and go after them for that amount only or any depreciation that it caused if you just sell it to be rid of the house. it’s not like the us where you can sue for hurt feelings or anything more

36. QUESTION:
    Lotsa questions about the new older home we recently purchased.?
    Purchased an older home (1930’s era) that was brought in, in 3 pieces and put together like a puzzle over the years. The floors in some areas are slightly slanted where the home was put together. Rock foundation looks decent though we had to have the basement/garage professionally waterproofed due to water seepage. I want the worst part of the floor fixed, which is the kitchen. I have had many suggestions from people from removing the floor and redoing it to buying floor leveler in a can and using that to building a new floor on top of the existing floor, so it would be a step up floor to jacking the floor up. Now jacking the floor up was my first thought but then I was told we can’t do it because the walls would crack, but that’s not an issue since we are actually redoing the plaster walls with sheetrock anyway. It was an Amish contractor that said he could do the floor by jacking. Any suggestions? The slant is maybe 3-5 inches from one side to the other.

    Mary in Camden, MI. USA
    The floor jacking makes the most sense to me and would be the least expensive option.
    The 3 main parts of the home were brought in and put together but there are actually 2 small additions (both porches).

    I have had he Amish contractor do work for me already, just yesterday actually, and he came highly recommended by quite a few of the locals in this small town (population under 550).

    • ANSWER:
      A few things to think about here.

      First, you make a point of noting that you have talked to an Amish contractor. Do not fall into to trap of thinking that just because the contractor is Amish he is competent and/or reputable. There are some very good Amish contractors, but there are bad ones as well. Sometimes the bad ones seem to get by because they are able to flash the “Amish card”. Ask for references, ideally from a similar project, from any contractor you consider. You will also want to make sure that your contractor is properly insured, especially for this type of project. Check both workers compensation and liability.

      From your description I’m not sure if you are saying this house was built on another location and moved or if you are saying it was added on to over the years (maybe both?). Either way, you have some of the same problems.

      The slant that you have is probably due to settling of the foundation, structural failure of the joists or carrying beams, or a combination. In any case, this probably happed within ten years or so after the original part of the house was built. Both of these conditions are due to construction methods of the time and were accepted as normal settling. As a result, there was probably not any effort to correct the situation before adding to a house in this condition.

      Now comes problem #1 — the newer parts of the house are likely tied to the older part with some compensation for the settling of the older part. The result is that as you raise the older parts, the newer parts will raise as well. This may cause reasonably level floors in the newer parts to become a problem.

      Problem #2 is the plaster. This one is probably already a problem — it should have cracked considerably years ago as the house settled. It may have been repaired or maybe you have paneling. Either way, the walls will have to be fixed. It sounds like you are planning this anyway — just be prepared as there will be no turning back. Ideally you should strip the walls before you start to jack the floors as this will reduce the resistance to the movement, reduce the weight you are lifting, and most important allow you to see the framing to make sure nothing is pulling apart.

      #3 is the framing connections. Everyone talks about plaster cracking, but as I alluded to in #2, the framing connections can pull apart or become loose as you move the stucture, especially if you have 3 – 5″ to go. Going very slow (1/4″ every two weeks or so) would help reduce these problems, but it is best to have the walls and ceiling open so you can spot any potential problems.

      #4 — wiring and plumbing. If you have original wiring in the house, it is most certainly knob and tube (another problem of its own). This type of wiring does not tolerate sudden movement of the structure well. If you have it, it should be replaced anyway, but it is a particular hazard with this type of project. Plumbing in the walls can be a similar problem — pipes just don’t stretch. Again, open the walls first to monitor the situation. Electric and water off, if possible.

      You may not have any of these problems, or you may have all. The most important thing is to make sure that your contractor is ready for any of them and that you have a sufficient budget to deal with them as they come along.

      Finally, regardless of the problems I think you will be better of long term to raise the existing floor rather than band aid it. Do make certain that the cause (foundation or framing) is corrected as well so you don’t have to do it all again in a few years.

37. QUESTION:
    Does anyone have any natural home remedies for dark under-eye circles?
    I’m healthy but since having my daughter 2 years ago, I have developed bags under my eyes, which I never used to have.

    I know I don’t get enough sleep, but reality is, I have a very hectic schedule, so I have somewhat adapted to getting by on 5 hrs a night.

    I drink lots of water, eat a well-balanced diet and am fairly active (I work out at least a few times per week).

    Does anyone have any tips on other ways to reduce the dark circles? I have heard of the “cucumber” method, but does that actually work? Any tips would be helpful.

    Thanks in advance!
    Just to add, the rest of my complexion is fine, I actually have very nice skin because I take care of it. The only problem is the bags….

    • ANSWER:
      I’m sure you’ll find a solution here –

      Remedies For Dark Circles

      * An instant dark circles remedy is to use the correct concealer. The shade should be lighter than your foundation. If circles are very dark, choose 2 shades lighter. Great choices can be Revlon New Complexion Concealer, Estee Lauder Smoothing Skin Concealer, Cover Girl Smoothers Concealer, or Neutrogena Smoothing Skin Stick.

      * Apply a good Vitamin K cream. Vita-K Solution gel or Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue help strengthen capillary walls around the dark circles to make them less visible.

      * One should go for laser treatment only if the case is chronic. Lasers can increase production of collagen thereby thickening skin to make dark circles less visible.

      * Home remedies for dark circles can include the following:
      1. Drink plenty of water to combat dehydration.
      2. Wear at least SPF 30 sunscreen to prevent more sun damage.
      3. Get enough sleep.
      4. Leave cold teabags, cucumber or potato slices, or washcloths with ice cubes on eyes for 15 minutes regularly.
      5. Take iron supplements if anemic, but consult your doctor first.
      6. Identify the allergens and avoid them. Whether it be pollen, food, whatever, avoidance is the best solution to this. And avoid rubbing your eyes.

      * Hylexin is the first dark circles eye cream developed for serious dark circles. Featured in several magazines such as Marie Claire, FashionWeekDaily, The Wall Street Journal , Star and Luck.

      * One of the greatest remedies for dark circles is Arbonne’s NutriMinC® RE9 Repair. It’s a corrective puffiness and dark circles eye cream that does additional benefits – firming, moisturizing and repairing the delicate tissue around the eye.

38. QUESTION:
    Can this wood be painted over?
    I’m a first time home owner.
    There’s a lot of wood: there’s the fence, there’s a deck (the part you stand on is fine, but the railings are the issue) also there’s borders of wood around garden areas.

    There is one small area of dry rot (I think that’s what it’s called) its not termites, had inspection on whole house already.

    But all that wood is a bit dirty… The painted color is faded… It’s drab… I want to paint everything, but is there more to it than just painting it? I am guessing I would have to clean it first, right? How would I?

    I just want to know if there’s anything I might not realize before I go painting everything.

    And how’s about wood that is on ground level that is dirtied by rain pummeling the dirt? Any way to remedy this?

    • ANSWER:
      You might need to clean first, depending how dirty it is. No tricks there. You either use a scrub brush and a garden hose, or a pressure washer. There are various cleaning products that can be used with either method to speed up or to make the cleaning more effective. You can buy them at any hardware/building supply place. Once you have cleaned you have to wait for the wood to dry very thoroughly before painting or staining, so that’s usually a job for summer in many places.

      Whether you need to prime first depends on the surface you want to paint. If it’s in good shape you might not need to prime. If it’s in poor shape or has bare wood showing, or if you aren’t sure if what’s already on it is compatible with what you want to paint it with, priming is a really good idea after removing any loose or peeling paint. The fence might be stained rather than painted, and if it’s a transparent stain you can stain right over it. Take a few photos and take them to a paint store and ask what’s the best way to do what you want.

      About the wood getting splashed with dirt, why is water falling that close to the house? It shouldn’t be. Do you have gutters? If not, maybe you should. One of their functions is to stop water from falling close to the house and to keep it draining away from the house and away from the foundation or basement and away from the walls too. If you have them, they aren’t doing their job and may need cleaning, repair, or replacement. If lack of gutters has nothing to do with this problem for some reason, it can help to have gravel on the ground where the water lands, deep enough that the water can’t hit bare dirt but only gravel. That will reduce the amount of water that splashes around and pretty much eliminate dirt getting splashed around.

39. QUESTION:
    Finding an Exclusive Buyer Agent in San Jose, CA.?
    Hi,

    I am a first time home buyer in San Jose, CA. I have read few books and researched conclusion leads me to getting an Exclusive Buyer Agent is the best way to go.

    I have asked my friends and colleagues about it, and no one I know have used such agents, so I am stuck finding one on my own.

    I have looked at NAEBA (www.naeba.com), but here are my questions:

    1. Are there other sites and or resources besides NAEBA that is good to search for an agent?

    2. What usually are the pay structure? Is it a fixed fee? Are they negotiable?

    3. Since NAEBA was founded in 1995, its only been around for 10 yrs or so, are there many around who is experienced enough?

    Thanks for you help in advanced.

    • ANSWER:
      Real estate agents and REALTORS are very poorly trained.

      I recommend that instead of a buyers agent, you hire an attorney who sepcializes in real estate law to write the language of your offfer and that you hire a real estate appraiser to give you a second opinion on the price of the house.

      Your real estate appraiser should be a Member of The Appraisal Institute. (MAI designation)

      Virtually all of the houses that are for sale are on the internet. You do not need an agent to find the house for you.

      What you do with the attorney and the appraiser is that you tell them upfront that you are hiring them to protect your interests and to protect you from paying too much for the house.

      Direct yur attorney to include language in your offer that makes it contingent on the appraised value as determined by your appraiser not the lender’s appraiser.

      The lender’s appraiser will appraise high to ingratiate himself with the real estate agents so they will continue to send business to the bank and the appraiser.

      When your appraiser determines that the fair market value of the house is less than the amount that you offered, you are to give the seller two choices:

      1. Reduce the contract price to the fair market value as determined by your appraiser or…:

      Note: Since you are represented by an attorney and not a real estate agent, the seller is saving the 3% of the purchase price that would have been paid to the real estate agent. I recommend that you also direct the seller to reduce the contract price by the additional 3% that he would have paid to your agent.

      After all that 3% is your money. You are saving the seller that money by not using a real estate agent. Thereofre you should get that money in the form of anadditional price reduction of 3% less than the amount of the fair market value as determined by your appraiser.

      2. Agree to cancel the contract and direct the escrow company to return your deposit.

      Also have your attorney include language in the contract that makes the contract contingent on your approval of inspection reports.by your inspectors, not the seller’s inspectors.

      The inspection should be at least 21 days to give your inspectors ample time to inspect the property and write their reports. Do not let the listing agent try to shorten this period. Listing agents often try to shorten this period to 10 days or less. That does not giveyou adequate time to get your inspectors out to the property, make the inspectins, write the reports, give you time to review the reports and make decisons ablut what repairs are needed.

      The inspections should include at a minimum an inspection of the roof, the chimney, the structure itself, the foundation the plumbing, heating and the electrical system. Also you need a termite report and an inspection for water damage and dry rot.

      In San Jose and all over that area you need and inspection of the chimney by a masonry contractor because in San Jose many chimneys were broken in the 1989 earthquake and have never been repaired.

      A broken chimney can permit hot gases from the fire to enter the attic and start a fire in the attic.

      When the reports come back indiccating that repairs are needed again give the seller two choices:

      1. Agree to hire a licensed contractor to make the repairs or further reduce the price of the house to compensate for the cost of the repairs. or…

      2. Agree to cancel the contract and direct the escrow company to return your deposit to you.

      I see the responder below does not agree with me and that is fine, I understand. Many people disagree with me. I have been very successful following the method that I have outlined for you.

      I challenge those who disagree with me to show that they have been more successful than I have at purchasing pieces of property at true fair market value and not the inflated prices that the real estate agents think that you should pay.

      I never use real estate agents to purchase property. I only use appraisers and attorneys.

      I also know San Jose very well. I grew up there and purchased most of the property that I own in Cupertino, which is a town very close to San Jose. The method that I have developed works very well in San Jose.

      You will find that the attorney and the appraiser will cost much less than the 3% the seller will pay the buyer’s agent. Remember that I said to reduce the contract price to fair market value less the 3% the seller would have paid your agent.

      On even a 0,000 house, that is ,000. Your attorney and your appraiser will not charge you anywhere near that amount and your attorney and your appraiser will do a much better job of representing your interests than a buyer’s real estate agent will.

      For one thing a real estate agent, even if he is a buyer’s agent will become very unhappy with you after you have cancelled several transactions because the seller would not agree to reduce his price to fair market value or would not agree to make needed repairs.

      You will not have that problem with your attorney or your appraiser.

      I realize that real estate agents think they know how to determine fair market value of a house, but they do not.

      An appraiser who is a Member of The Appraisal Institute has far more rigorous training standards to meet than a real estate agent. There is extensive classroom training that the appraiser must complete and pass and then he must work for several years in a firm that is owned by a Member of The Appraisal Institute before he is even eligible to apply for the MAI designation.

      A real estate appraiser who is a Member of The Appraisal Institute has far more expertise than any real estate agent with respect to determining the true fair market value of a piece of property.

      Your attorney has far more training than a real estate agent with respect to the law and the language that a contract must contain to protect your interests.

      The attorney must go to law school for at least 3 years after graduating from college and must pass a very rigorous bar exam.

      A real estate agent only has to take a few classes online. The classes only take a few weeks. Then the real estate agent takes a relatively easy exam which really does not test his knowledge of law or valuation of a piece of property.

      You get much better representation with the attorney and the real estate appraiser and they cost less if you follow my instructions and deduct the 3% fee that the seller would have paid youir real estate agent from the fair market value as determined by your appraiser that you pay for the property.
      .

40. QUESTION:
    Insomnia and dysania?
    So, yeah, I’ve been struggling with insomnia for years now, and don’t necessarily know what to do about it. I’m even more baffled and affected daily by the constant dysania I feel in the morning, not wanting to get out of bed when my alarm goes off, and then I end up sleeping through classes and waking up between 2 and 4 in the afternoon. I’d like methods of getting to sleep effectively, but, more importantly, is there any way to get me out of bed on my own? And, trust me, I put my alarm in a far away corner of the room so that I have to leave my bed to turn it off, but I still end up going back to sleep, anyway, and proceed to sleep for most of the day. Even my boyfriend tries waking me up and he’s told me he’s tried for 45 minutes straight at one point and had to give up because I just would not get up… So, simply put, what is wrong with me and is there any way to fix it on my own?

    • ANSWER:
      Hi Michael,

      While some call it the most wonderful time of the year, for others the holiday season is a time of undue stress. Office and cocktail parties, school concerts, family gatherings… these are all meant to be happy festive occasions, a time to celebrate the best of the season. But add holiday shopping, home decorating and meal preparation to the mix and the already time-crunched individual may be just about ready to crack. When there are only 24 hours in a day, something’s got to give. And too often, that something is sleep.

      Who decided that sleep is expendable? Somehow those of us who admit they “need to sleep” are considered wimps. There’s a social pressure associated with staying up late and doing it all. Research published by the National Sleep Foundation shows that 30% of those surveyed sleep six hours or less per night. Yet sleep scientists agree that a minimum of 7 1/2 to 8 hours of sleep are required to reap the benefits of a restorative night’s sleep.

      When we sleep our cells rejuvenate, which is crucial for the growth and repair of muscles and tissues. Why do you think babies and teens (and athletes) need more sleep than the average adult? Insufficient sleep can lead to premature aging, decreased immunity and an increased risk of degenerative chronic illness. For the athlete, it can also translate to slower recovery times, poor performance and higher risk of injury.

      We’ve all experienced the mental fog that accompanies sleep deprivation. Mood, alertness, reaction times and our immune system are all affected by even one night of insufficient sleep. It’s time to stop neglecting ourselves and to recognize that getting enough sleep will ultimately make us more productive, more energetic and, most importantly, healthier and happier.

      What do many of us do when we wake up feeling lethargic and fuzzy headed? We look for comfort as well as stimulants, usually in the form of foods we really shouldn’t be eating: coffee and a muffin for breakfast; pizza for lunch; more coffee, maybe some chocolate later in the day. It’s not all in your head. A 2008 study published in the Journal of Sleep Research reported that even one night of sleep deprivation can increase the levels of ghrelin (the hunger-stimulating hormone) and decrease the levels of leptin (the hunger-suppressing hormone). It also negatively impacts insulin sensitivity, which explains why you’re looking for high fat or sugar-laden snacks like potato chips or cookies.

      Refined carbs and sugar may make you feel good in that moment, but in the long run they add hormonal and digestive burdens to an already stressed body. Those carbs will give you a short-term boost, but will also cause your blood sugar to crash an hour later and set you up for more cravings as your physiological need for nutrients hasn’t been met. By wreaking havoc with your insulin levels, desserts and sugary drinks can interfere with a good night’s rest, especially when consumed later in the day. It becomes a vicious cycle, as sleep deprivation can spike your cortisol (a stress hormone), which further fuels that desire for comfort food. Result: weight gain and further interrupted sleep.

      Holiday time might affect the number of hours you sleep, and you can’t always control that, but what you can control is what you eat. Nutrition can enhance the quality of your sleep as well as your energy levels throughout the day. Here are a few tips to help you get through this busy season and enjoy a restorative night’s sleep.

      You can read more from the given source:

41. QUESTION:
    how to get rid of raccoons?

    • ANSWER:
      put ammonia in you trash cans it will keep them away from them.
      Problem Prevention

      Raccoons are attracted to urban areas by the easy accessibility of food, water and shelter. Reducing or eliminating the availability of all of these factors will encourage raccoons to leave. Tight fitting lids should be kept on garbage cans; pets should be fed during daylight hours and any leftovers removed immediately; water bowls should be emptied or taken inside at night; gardens should be frequently harvested and windfall fruit picked up. Food should never be intentionally left out for wild mammals.

      Raccoons can be excluded from buildings by covering foundation vents with slotted metal vent covers and by using 1/4 inch grid screening to cover attic vents and chimneys. They have been known to enter homes through pet doors; be sure these are locked at night. Raccoons sometimes take up residence under a low deck. Front Foot and Hind Foot Raccoon TracksThey may be excluded by using 1/4 inch grid screening or solid metal flashing. Trench around the perimeter of the deck a minimum of 12 inches deep, insert screening in trench and backfill. Attach top of screening to facade of deck with nails or fence post staples. Before completing final seal on the last entry point, it is wise to make sure no animals are trapped inside. On the night before completing repairs sprinkle flour in the entrance hole and check for tracks the following morning. If no tracks are evident for 3 consecutive nights, no animals are likely to be present. You may wish to make a temporary one way exit using 1/4 inch grid screening. Form the screening into a cone or funnel shape that will permit animals to leave but not to re-enter. The large end should be sized to encircle the entry hole and be attached over the hole to the facade of the deck or building with nails or fence post staples. The small end should face away from the house and be 4 – 6 inches in diameter.

      Raccoons may be kept away from roof areas by trimming tree branches 10 feet from roof and by keeping climbing plants trimmed away from root and eave areas.

      Exclusion of raccoons from coops and poultry yards is usually the most practical and effective method to prevent losses. At night, poultry should be kept in raccoon-proof sheds or houses. Ideally, poultry should be confined day and night in a sturdy house combined with a predator-proof outdoor run area. This also provides protection from many other types of predators. Often, with a few simple tools and a little material, even somewhat dilapidated coops can be rejuvenated into raccoon-proof condition. Keep in mind that raccoons are good climbers. Moreover, they are strong animals capable of seizing and pushing or pulling objects with considerable force. Usually raccoons are not inclined to break through walls or fences that are intact and in reasonably good condition. Entry is usually made through open, weak, or loose places. Following is a list of measures you can use to protect poultry from raccoons.

      1.

      Cover tops of outdoor runs with wire mesh and/or suitable paneling material and fasten securely. If this is not practical, shut poultry indoors at night.
      2.

      Patch or repair all holes or weak places in existing wire or wood (house or run).
      3.

      Check all edges of overlapping or stapled chicken wire for tightness and tie or staple securely.
      4.

      Check ground edges of coop for tightness. Raccoons may dig under fencing or enlarge existing spaces.
      5.

      Coop doors should be close fitting and sturdy. Beware of plywood doors which may have substantial warp at corners.
      6.

      Simple door fasteners, such as plain hooks, should be replaced with more sophisticated devices such as safety hooks or locking hasps. Raccoons can manipulate and open elementary door latches.
      7.

      To prevent raccoons from reaching in and grabbing poultry, night roosting or standing areas should be at least 12 inches away from cracks or wire mesh of more than 3/4 inch sq. spacing. Smaller size wire can be installed near roosting areas.
      8.

      Birds housed in wire or plastic cages should be kept within the confines of raccoon-proof buildings at night. An alternative solution is to hang or suspend cages from ceilings at least 4 feet above the floor and 5 feet away from walls.

      The use of a watch dog may prove advantageous in preventing damage in some situations. However, this is not recommended due to the fact that raccoons can be extremely vicious.

      Raccoons causing lawn and turf damage may be encouraged to leave by controlling the grub worms or other subsoil insects that raccoons eat.

42. QUESTION:
    Should I replace or fix my cracked fiberglass tub?
    Ok, my fiberglass tub cracked a year ago. I had been using it since 2006 and it was used before that by the previous owners. Anyways, it cracked finally in 2010, I believe, due to a imperfect support structure placed underneath and due to the fact that my new roommate weighs over 400 lbs.

    I had the crack repaired a year ago by a professional for 0 (he used injectable foam insulation, bondo, glue, adhesive mat). It recracked last month and since it has a 5 year warranty he came to fix it again but said he would not come again despite the warranty since he feels the tub’s foundation was installed poorly (whatever, I’m over that he’s backing out of his warranty).

    It recracked a month later after his second repair. And so then I just temporarily patched it up (to prevent leaks, as it had been leaking water everywhere underneath and into the rest of the bathroom) with some more foam insulation, and it is not leaking anymore so it has bought me some time to decide what to do.

    Ok, I am wondering if I should attempt to repair it or replace it with another tub. I will be doing the repair/replacement myself so no labor fees:) I believe the proper way to repair a fiberglass tub with large cracks is to use a fiberglass inlay (don’t know the cost of that yet), or possibly find a tub shell to slide into the existing tub, and/or injecting more material underneath to give it support. Should I repair it with one of these options? Do you know which one is cheapest and/or easiest that actually works?

    Or should I replace the tub with a steel tub for 0 from Lowes. Pretty inexpensive, and steel will bend and not crack under my roommate’s weight (it should not do either if I lay a solid foundation), thus not causing any water leaking issues. I know people say fiberglass is recommended but with my situation, with weight being an issue, I think it may be possible that fiberglass could crack again if the foundation isn’t perfect. I would think steel tubs would “give” a little under an improper foundation but not crack functionally. I don’t want a cast iron tub because they are tooooo darn heavy and not worth the trouble of moving them.

    In summary my Q’s are:

    1) Should I repair my tub? If yes, what method should I use and why?
    2)Should I replace my tub with a new one? If yes, which type should I buy?
    3)Can anyone describe to me how to install a good support structure for the tub if I do install a new one? If not, any sites that give good details on doing this?

    Thanks so much, this is a big job for me to do. I’ve worked on small home repair projects, but this one is the biggest I’ve ever done. I need all the help I can get

    • ANSWER:
      Given all the issues with the current tub, I’d go for replacing with a steel tub. As you say, they don’t cost much, and they are sturdy. They’re also less fussy when it comes to cleaning. If the support under the current tub is as bad as you suspect, I think the current tub will continue to have issues. Repairing a fiberglass tub from the top is going to be very time consuming if you want to get it looking even close to finished, and if it continues to flex due to poor support then the patch could let go eventually. I think tearing out what you have, fixing what’s underneath it(if it’s been leaking, there may be rot) and installing a new steel tub is the long-term fix. Maybe a little more trouble, but if it’s done right you should never have issues with it.

43. QUESTION:
    what is Human Social Welfare Foundation in the U.S.A.?

    • ANSWER:
      Human Social Welfare Foundation (HSWF) is an established recruiting non-profit organization dedicated
      to providing quality recruitment and other cost effective placement services to companies of all sizes in United
      States, United Kingdom, Canada and Germany. Over the years, we have proven that a professionally
      conducted search is the most time-efficient and cost-effective method for successfully meeting staffing
      requirements.

      The human Social Welfare Foundation with its head office in United States of American and international
      office in United Kingdom, Canada and Germany is committed to addressing issues of unemployment,
      homelessness, education, community development, home ownership, and developing innovative solutions to
      joblessness which in turn leads to the self-reliance and the economic independence of those served.

      We have staffs and volunteers who have devoted their lives to a study of the fundamentals of human behavior
      and personal motivation that affect professional performance. Staff that can awaken the unlimited power of
      achievement within you! International management Strategists who have the dynamic gifts and abilities to
      teach, train, motivate, and inspire, these messages are a power-packed adventure that are filled with practical
      illustrations.

      Our Strategy–The Human Social Welfare Foundations strategy is to develop both
      transitional and affordable permanent housing that integrates comprehensive social support and employment
      services within a supportive community to ensure that individuals and families remain stable, are safely
      housed, stay independent and maintain their employment status.

      The Human Social Welfare Foundation develops partnerships and linkages with local community-based
      agencies and nationally recognized non-profit organizations. The Human Social Welfare Foundation utilizes
      government programs, grants, bequests, private funds, and contributions from private sector funding and
      donations from the general public to accomplish its mission.

      The Human Social Welfare Foundation believes in the fundamental principle that housing alone is not enough
      to end homelessness or poverty. Many working poor and homeless families across America, especially those
      who depend on our services, need more than just a roof over their heads. In the spirit of this principle, HSWF
      offers a comprehensive array of supportive services within each of its programs designed to help families and
      individuals move toward independence and self-sufficiency.

      All HSWF’s programs are linked to appropriate on- and off-site supportive services, including: crisis case
      management services, parenting skills training, child and infant care services, mental health counseling
      services, housing placement services, job readiness training, employment placement services, safety/security,
      men and women’s support groups, and family support services. Additional supportive services include: a
      continuum of rich recreational, vocational, cultural and social activities for children of all ages — preschoolers
      through teens. HSWF also offers services and support to parents who help their children learn and grow
      intellectually, emotionally, and physically.
      HSWF manages all the buildings it owns and/or has renovated. All HSWF’s transitional housing projects are
      designed to be convertible to permanent supportive housing. In addition to providing community-based
      property management which is sensitive and responsive to the neighborhood, HSWF offers additional services
      to tenants through the Tenant Advocacy Department. Property Managers, Residence Managers, and
      Community Organizers assist tenants in establishing active tenant associations, combat crime, and secure
      building repairs.

44. QUESTION:
    How do I make my self look decent?
    I’m very ugly. I do my best to look pretty, but it doesn’t work. I still look absolutely disgusting. Here are all my faults, and what I do to try and correct them:

    1. I have a large overbite – Braces are out of the question, I don’t have dental insurance or enough money to cover them.

    2. My teethe are stained from medication I took when I was 7 or eight – Every morning I rinse with Listerine whitening rinse, floss, brush for five minutes with Colgate Optic White tooth paste, and use a whitening tray. I brush again when I get home from school. I do the same routine at night, but with Colgate 360 degrees whitening tooth paste rather than the optic white tooth paste. Despite all the whitening methods and precautions I take, I still look as though I don’t brush my teeth. It’s disgusting and I hate it.

    2. I have mild acne. – Mostly black heads, especially around my nose and in my ears (ew). I wash my face twice a day with Clean and Clear’s black head eraser. I also use Noxzema’s Salycic acid cleansing pads. They don’t go away.

    3. My hair is damaged – I get it trimmed as often as I can, 1 to 2 inches each time. I use Aussie’s 3 minute miracle for 10 minutes in the shower, or other damage repair or prevention conditioners. I can’t always do this because of finances.

    4. Body hair – I have very dark brown hair that grows VERY fast. When I shave my arm pits, you can still see the hair follicle because my skin is sort of translucent (if that makes sense). It also grows back noticeably on my legs, underarms, and bikini area in a day, or sometimes less than a day if it’s cold out or if there is very strong AC on somewhere. I’m not sure that my mother would let me bleach it.

    5. Bushy Eyebrows – I don’t have a uni brow, but my eyebrows are very long and bushy. My mom won’t let me wax them because she says it will grow back even darker and even more bushy, she also insists that they aren’t that bad; but I know they are. It makes me look like I don’t care about my appearance, and it is very unattractive.

    6. Freckles – I have no problem with freckles on other people. On other people, freckles are cute and pretty. But on me they are ugly. I don’t have a ton of them, but they are pretty noticeable. There isn’t much I can do about them, sadly.

    So as you can see, I am hideous. Literally every one I’ve ever seen or known is beautiful, pretty, cute, or all of the above, but I’m just gross. I don’t like smiling in public because of my teeth and overbite. I’m NOT photogenic, every photo taken of me looks stupid. I know that this question is shallow, but I’m so tired of looking atrocious. I hate it.
    I wear make up to cover up my gross skin, and I’m not horrible at using makeup. People can’t tell I’m wearing foundation. But even with the make up, you can still see the zits and impurities.
    Can some of you maybe suggest some things I can do to improve myself?

    • ANSWER:
      Everything can be treated within a month, don’t worry. Go to the hair salon get a haircut that suits you and if you ask they’ll probably reccomend some products. You should buy super smile for your teeth, I use to drink wine a lot so my teeth were stained kind of yellowy-ish grey and the first time I used it my teeth were seriously blinding to look at. You can buy eyebrow stencils for your eyebrows, fill in the stencil then pluck the unwanted hair from the bottom only, never the top. If your mom won’t let you pluck them, use some petroleum jelly or chap-stick, only a little and put it over your eyebrows which will make them less bushy and you can define your shape a little better. You can buy clay masks, etc that will get rid of the blackheads after 1-2 uses.

45. QUESTION:
    Skin probs PLEASE HELP ME?
    OK when i get pimbles they stay for a really long time and then they kinda turn into scabs or something. i also have a lot of blackheads. Please tell me how to get rid of them because we r traveling in two days and i really don’t want my face to look bad. if possible please give homemade stuff cause i can’t go anywhere right now.

    • ANSWER:
      Avoid washes and soaps as these strip away natural oils which actually causes skin to produce more oil as your skin realises that it needs to make more oil to make up for what the washes/soaps have taken away, this excess oil is what clogs pores because it sits on the surface of the skin and collects dirt and bacteria that causes spots and blackheads. Oil is good for your skin as it helps prevent water loss and restores barriers, providing essential nutrition to skin that it needs to renew, maintain and repair – this is exactly why our skin has oils to begin with!

      Instead of washes or soaps try cleansing with Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) which maintains natural oils keeping skin healthy so prevents excess oil being produced by your skin, this prevents acne and blackheads while also keeping skin healthy and moisturised. For OCM mix half extra virgin olive oil to moisturize and half castor oil to cleanse, also try adding a little tea tree oil which is antibacterial. Massage into your face then put a hot face cloth over your face for a minute to open pores, then wipe off oil, any trace amounts are absorbed into skin so won’t be greasy. http://www.moogoo.com.au/category13_1.htm – really, try it, I love this since using it I don’t get spots, my skin is never oily and always well moisturised. I’ve known so many people with acne who have tried every product under the sun but nothing worked until they tried this method, it leaves your skin wonderful and healthy.

      If your skin isn’t too bad at the moment try a steam to open pores, do this by putting your head over hot water with a towel over it, another suggestions would be to exfoliate to scrub off dead skin, you could use a sugar or salt scrub which you could make yourself at home (salt or sugar in oil being the most simple method I can think of off the top of my head). Or you could try cosmetic vinegar to exfoliate which will also promote circulation, regulate skins pH and is antiseptic so should leave your skin in better condition – Mix 500ml of apple cider vinegar, 3ml lavender essential oil, 3ml rosemary essential oil, 2ml rosewood essential oil, and 2 tablespoons glycerine (or hell, just the vinegar will do if you don’t have essential oils at home) use as cleanser by adding 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup of water. Try masks too, there are many easy recipes online, see Make Your Own Cosmetics http://www.makeyourcosmetics.com or Pioneer Thinking http://www.pioneerthinking.com try this strawberry acne mask; mix together ½ cup fresh strawberries, 1 egg white, and 2 teaspoons of honey until smooth. To use spread over face and leave for 15 minutes, rinse off with cool water and pat dry. This one is good as strawberries are rich in salicylic acid which is commonly used in acne treatments, honey is also antibacterial.

      Keep yourself healthy, even with only a few days to get your skin ready it will help to eat plenty of fruit, vegetables and drink lots of water, but also avoid salty foods as iodine aggravates acne. Get plenty of exercise, sleep and stay stress-free, also use sunscreen at all times. Make-up isn’t a problem if you use mineral foundation which has great coverage but doesn’t clog pores, also keep your make-up clean as dirty sponges or hands in make-up will cause bacteria which in turn causes spots. Avoid products like hairsprays with synthetic polymers such as vinyl or other plastics, that is because if it gets onto the skin on your face, as it does if spraying all over your head even if aiming for your hair, it will clog pores particularly where there are larger pores such as on the chin or mouth.

46. QUESTION:
    will the smell of a cat drive out a mouse?
    ok i have completely cleaned my house from top to bottom and i still don’t fell comfortable. This morning i saw a mouse run from my couch to the computer desk. I have swept, moped and vacuumed every room in the house. I have cleaned every dish in the house again just in case it might have been dirty, and double sealed everything in plastic containers and still don’t feel its enough. I cant lay poison because i have two small children and two puppy’s im afraid will get into it. I don’t want mouse parts, so traps are out. When we bought the house just this winter there was rat poison in the kitchen, just 3 weeks ago a dead mouse was on the sidewalk outside of our home. And today i finally saw a live mouse. So i want to barrow my mothers cat for a few weeks to see if that will keep the mice away. Do you think it would work?

    • ANSWER:
      I don’t think that “cat smell” will keep mice away. The cat might catch a few, so that could be a good thing. I live in a older home that has had previous termite damage and repairs to the damage. There are small openings that I just can’t find, even after years of trying to. Our problem is that siding was placed over clapboard and there are spaces that I can’t see to seal off in between. The only effective method here was to buy traps and bait them with peanut butter. They are set every 10 feet or so on the sill plate. That is the board that sits on top of the concrete block foundation. Every so often one gets killed in a trap. I hate to have to live this way but it does stop them where they come in so that they can’t cause damage or breed in the home. Best of luck to you.

47. QUESTION:
    How Can I Get Rid Off All Of My Spots!? :-(?
    I am 16 years old, 17 this month i am white an suppose i have pale skin. I wash my face in the morning and at night, first i rinse my face with hot water, then apply soap, rub it on my face then wash it off, i then dab my face with a towel and apply Tea Tree face scrub to my face, rub it in and rinse off, then i rinse my face with cold water and dry it.
    I am active, i have a horse an not often sat around all day doing nothing(just sometimes haha)
    I eat fruit now an then and i dont drink water(i hate it) i can drink flavoured water, or i will have like blackcurrent through out the day – adding water too it.
    Im not a very healthy person, i dont eat sweets and chocolate all day everyday, just now an then, i sometimes i have a packet of crisp a day and eat yoghurts and also have my tea, dinner and breakfast.
    I just want to know how can i get rid of my spots! i always have them, i dont think ive had a day in the past 1-2 years where ive had no spots!!
    I wear dream satin liquid foundation(cameo) then put dream matte mouse foundation(cameo) over the top, then some mascara.
    PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME!! AND NO STUPID ANSWERS PLEASE 🙁

    • ANSWER:
      You’re washing your face too much, you’re using soap and washes on your face, and you’re using too much foundation particularly foundation which will cause more spots – stop all of that!

      Avoid washes or soaps as these strip away natural oils which actually causes skin to produce more oil as your skin realises that it needs to make more oil to make up for what the washes/soaps have taken away, this excess oil is what clogs pores. Instead cleanse with what’s known as the Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) http://www.moogoo.com.au/category13_1.htm which maintains natural oils keeping skin healthy so prevents excess oil being produced by your skin, this prevents acne and blackheads while also keeping skin healthy and moisturised. For OCM mix half extra virgin olive oil to moisturize and half castor oil to cleanse, also try adding a little tea tree oil which is antibacterial. Massage into your face then put a hot face cloth over your face for a minute to open pores, then wipe off oil, any trace amounts are absorbed into skin so won’t be greasy. As strange as it might seems oil is actually good for your skin as it helps prevent water loss and restores barriers, providing essential nutrition to skin that it needs to renew, maintain and repair. Oil is only bad for your skin when it lingers on the surface of your skin where it will collect bacteria and dirt near to your skin where it can get into your pores. Really this works, I love this method but I also know so many other people who had tried every product out there then tried this to find it was the only thing that worked for them.

      If your skin isn’t too bad at the moment try a steam to open pores, do this by putting your head over hot water with a towel over it, another suggestions would be to exfoliate to scrub off dead skin, you could use a sugar or salt scrub which you could make yourself at home (salt or sugar in oil being the most simple method I can think of off the top of my head). Or you could try cosmetic vinegar to exfoliate which will also promote circulation, regulate skins pH and is antiseptic so should leave your skin in better condition – Mix 500ml of apple cider vinegar, 3ml lavender essential oil, 3ml rosemary essential oil, 2ml rosewood essential oil, and 2 tablespoons glycerine (or hell, just the vinegar will do if you don’t have essential oils at home) use as cleanser by adding 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup of water. Try masks too, there are many easy recipes online, see Make Your Own Cosmetics http://www.makeyourcosmetics.com or Pioneer Thinking http://www.pioneerthinking.com try this strawberry acne mask; mix together ½ cup fresh strawberries, 1 egg white, and 2 teaspoons of honey until smooth. To use spread over face and leave for 15 minutes, rinse off with cool water and pat dry. This one is good as strawberries are rich in salicylic acid which is commonly used in acne treatments, honey is also antibacterial.

      Keep yourself healthy, even with only a few days to get your skin ready it will help to eat plenty of fruit, vegetables and drink lots of water, but also avoid salty foods as iodine aggravates acne. Get plenty of exercise, sleep and stay stress-free, also use sunscreen at all times. Make-up isn’t a problem if you use mineral foundation which has great coverage but doesn’t clog pores, also keep your make-up clean as dirty sponges or hands in make-up will cause bacteria which in turn causes spots. Avoid products like hairsprays with synthetic polymers such as vinyl or other plastics, that is because if it gets onto the skin on your face, as it does if spraying all over your head even if aiming for your hair, it will clog pores particularly where there are larger pores such as on the chin or mouth.

48. QUESTION:
    Plumbing and cold weather (Re-post)?
    I posted the following a couple of days ago but I think everyone took advantage of the wk’nd. 🙂
    Thanks.

    Plumbing and cold weather?
    We’re rehabbing an old brick school house (circa 1908) in central Mn. Many years ago a large addition was added to one side with a block foundation crawl space and 2×6 floors and the plan is install a 1/2 bath and laundry room into a portion of the addition.

    Currently there is no heat, never was, (we’ve got a hvac people coming out to analyze this and several other issues) and we don’t know yet if we’ll be using forced air, baseboard heat, or another method. I finally convinced my partners that the sink and washer will go on interior walls.

    Because the crawlspace has no entrance once the floor is put back in it’ll be basically sealed.

    Since I’m the amateur plumber that has to make this work and I’m starting to get hammered about getting started I thought I’d get some opinions about my concerns.

    My main concern is how avoid freezing pipes. (It gets cold (-20) up here) I can route through a 14″ foundation into the crawl space or possibly go thru the main building at a higher level with minor modification to the kitchen plan. Would it be recommended to run the pipes down from the ceiling or under the floor? (Only 2×6 floor so I don’t trust the insulation to keep warm) Heat tape? Run lines thru the cold air return? I keep hearing … “they do to mobile homes all the time!” to the point I’m ready to snap.:)

    Should any special attention be paid to the drain lines?

    I’m ready to listen even to unconventional ideas.

    Thanks
    Yes, this has a basement and we could go either straight thru to the crawl space or by going up to main floor and then over into the addition. The number and size of the holes needed at this time are not a concern. thanks

    • ANSWER:
      I have a suggestion but first let me shoot down some of the other idea’s with the fact that in cold weather you ALWAYS need access to pipes and fittings.

      Heat tape-no, the electrical in heat tape goes bad and you will have no easy way to repair.
      Crawlspace- even if heated, you said there will be no access
      Ceiling running down- no, there is no heat in the ceiling and the lines would need to be exposed in the bathroom.

      Cold air return-maybe but again, no access

      I’m assuming this schoolhouse has a basement, most do, and your best option would be to build a secondary partition wall on the same wall as the addition to hide the plumbing and run it into from the basement.
      Essentially just poking through the now exterior wall and the new addition wall from inside the new “fake” exterior wall . It sounds like you need a H & C for the washer, a H & C for a vanity sink and a C for the toilet?
      Obviously the best thing would be to make as few penetrations as possible so use 3/4 copper for the sink, run flex hose or tubing for toilet and run two exposed lines from the vanity THROUGH(vanity) the side onto the wall(exposed) for the washer.

      I’m kind of guessing here as I’m not able to see the layout. If you’re willing to make 4 penetrations…go for it. The toilet only needs to be hose or tubing, make sure you put a separate valve in for it.

      The drains shouldn’t matter, they are drains. As long as the traps are in a warm area and the lines are pitched well. Old houses suck.
      ADDITION
      —————————————————————————-
      existing exterior wall
      ————————————————————
      Plumbing ( H 0 C 0 H 0 C 0 ) from basement
      __newwall_______________________________________

49. QUESTION:
    Beauty tip’s that help the skin!?!?!?
    My face is always greesy, wich make’s me break out!! any cool tips that could help me stop this from hapening?!!?

    • ANSWER:
      Avoid washes or soaps as these strip away natural oils which actually causes skin to produce more oil as your skin realises that it needs to make more oil to make up for what the washes/soaps have taken away, this excess oil is what clogs pores. Instead cleanse with what’s known as the Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) http://www.moogoo.com.au/category13_1.htm which maintains natural oils keeping skin healthy so prevents excess oil being produced by your skin, this prevents acne and blackheads while also keeping skin healthy and moisturised. For OCM mix half extra virgin olive oil to moisturize and half castor oil to cleanse, also try adding a little tea tree oil which is antibacterial. Massage into your face then put a hot face cloth over your face for a minute to open pores, then wipe off oil, any trace amounts are absorbed into skin so won’t be greasy. As strange as it might seems oil is actually good for your skin as it helps prevent water loss and restores barriers, providing essential nutrition to skin that it needs to renew, maintain and repair. Oil is only bad for your skin when it lingers on the surface of your skin where it will collect bacteria and dirt near to your skin where it can get into your pores. Really this works, I love this method but I also know so many other people who had tried every product out there then tried this to find it was the only thing that worked for them.

      If your skin isn’t too bad at the moment try a steam to open pores, do this by putting your head over hot water with a towel over it, another suggestions would be to exfoliate to scrub off dead skin, you could use a sugar or salt scrub which you could make yourself at home (salt or sugar in oil being the most simple method I can think of off the top of my head). Or you could try cosmetic vinegar to exfoliate which will also promote circulation, regulate skins pH and is antiseptic so should leave your skin in better condition – Mix 500ml of apple cider vinegar, 3ml lavender essential oil, 3ml rosemary essential oil, 2ml rosewood essential oil, and 2 tablespoons glycerine (or hell, just the vinegar will do if you don’t have essential oils at home) use as cleanser by adding 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup of water. Try masks too, there are many easy recipes online, see Make Your Own Cosmetics http://www.makeyourcosmetics.com or Pioneer Thinking http://www.pioneerthinking.com try this strawberry acne mask; mix together ½ cup fresh strawberries, 1 egg white, and 2 teaspoons of honey until smooth. To use spread over face and leave for 15 minutes, rinse off with cool water and pat dry. This one is good as strawberries are rich in salicylic acid which is commonly used in acne treatments, honey is also antibacterial.

      Keep yourself healthy, even with only a few days to get your skin ready it will help to eat plenty of fruit, vegetables and drink lots of water, but also avoid salty foods as iodine aggravates acne. Get plenty of exercise, sleep and stay stress-free, also use sunscreen at all times. Make-up isn’t a problem if you use mineral foundation which has great coverage but doesn’t clog pores, also keep your make-up clean as dirty sponges or hands in make-up will cause bacteria which in turn causes spots. Avoid products like hairsprays with synthetic polymers such as vinyl or other plastics, that is because if it gets onto the skin on your face, as it does if spraying all over your head even if aiming for your hair, it will clog pores particularly where there are larger pores such as on the chin or mouth.

50. QUESTION:
    Half-Life Question.?
    All of the isotopes of radon have half-lives shorter than four days, yet radon is still found in nature. Explain why all the radon has not yet already decayed.

    • ANSWER:
      radon is formed from the decay of other materials see th attached link: * The risk of environmental radon levels is not higher now than in the past, when residential exposures were not considered to be a significant health hazard. It has now been raised from a nominal natural background contributor to human exposures to the prime contributor based on a new way of calculating dose, and not on increased exposures in the home due to tighter more energy efficient houses, or new information on radiation dose and/or biologic risk.
      * The great majority of the radiation dose is not from radon itself, but from the short-lived alpha particle-emitting radon daughters, most notably Po-218 (radioactive T1/2=3 minutes), and Po-214 (radioactive T1/2=0.164 milliseconds), along with beta particles from Bi-214 (T1/2=19.7 minutes). [T1/2 is physical half-life].
      * Measurement of radon in homes is simple and relatively inexpensive and may be accomplished by various means. Cannisters remain the method of choice for use by the average homeowner.
      * There is no way to avoid radiation exposures completely, much of which comes from the natural environment as well as from radioactivity in our own bodies.
      * Radon gas can penetrate houses from many sources in many fashions. It is not possible to radon-proof a home, but it is possible to reduce its level. The most important contributor to indoor radon is the soil from which radon can be drawn through large and small subsurface gaps in the house foundation. Houses that are in direct contact with the ground will have higher radon levels than houses with an air space under the dwelling. Radon levels in the upper floors of a multi-story building are lower than on the ground floor. If one lives in a high radon area, it is prudent to determine the level in the home and to take appropriate action if the level is found to be high, i.e. greater than 4-8 pCi/liter (NCRP recommended level is 8 pCi/liter, the EPA recommended level is 4 pCi/liter). [pCi is the activity of the substance and is equal to 10-12 Ci or 2.2 radioacitve emission per minute].
      * The shape of the dose response curves for miners exposed to alpha-emitting particles in the work-place is consistent with current biologic knowledge. It is linear in the low dose range and saturates in the high dose range. No detectable increase in lung cancer frequency is seen in the lowest exposed US miners, i.e. those with exposures <120 wlm, the relevant dose interval for most homes. in most cases, however, it is not possible to exclude a positive correlation due to wide uncertainty ranges on both the dose (x) and effect (y) axes. [wlm is a unit of expsoure to radon, working level month and is defined below]
      * Evidence for a health effect from radon exposure is based upon data gathered from epidemiologic studies of miners, and animal studies. Extensive radiobiologic data predict a linear dose response curve in the low dose region due to poor biological repair mechanisms for the high density of ionizing events that alpha particles create. If this is the mechanism that underlies lung cancer induction, there is reason to believe that there will be some degree of increased lung cancer risk even from low level environmental radon exposures. However, no compelling evidence for increased lung cancer risk has yet been demonstrated from "acceptable" levels (<4-8 pci/liter). increased lung cancer risk is primarily in cigarette smokers, and abatement of that risk can best be accomplished by changes in smoking status.
      * Mitigation of radon in the home can be accomplished by a variety of means. The level to which remediation should be directed is under dispute, to the extent that some groups even suggest the level should be maintained at less than or equal to 0.2 pCi/liter (the average outdoor level). The societal cost of testing and mitigation at the EPA recommended level (4 pCi/liter) is 44.5 billion dollars (1991 dollars), and rises to 101.2 billion dollars if the action level is set at 2 pCi/liter. At the NCRP action level, 8 pCi/liter, the cost is estimated at approx. 15 billion dollars.

      Radon, Rn-222 (T 1/2= 3.82 days), is a daughter product of radium, Ra-226, which in turn is derived from the longer-lived antecedent, U-238. Thoron, Rn-220 (T 1/2 = 56 seconds) is a daughter of thorium, Th-232, which is present in larger amount in the earth's crust than radon. Because of thoron's short half-life, it is essentially all gone before it leaves the ground, and is of no significant radiobiologic consequence. These radionuclide series are present in slowly decreasing amounts in the environment (geologic time scale), due to radioactive decay of their parents, which has been known and understood since the end of the last century.

      Widely varying radon levels exist in different regions related to geological circumstances. New concern regarding radon exposures is traceable to the discovery that there are more houses with high radon levels than previously realized and to the use of a new method of expressing and summing doses from partial body exposures, such as the lung dose from radon daughters (7-16). This method of expressing dose was promulgated by the ICRP and the NCRP based on defined weighting factors which make it possible to sum partial body doses and thereby estimate a total body dose which would have a quantifiable risk. This quantity is defined as the Effective Dose (ED) (16). Thus, the previously estimated partial body environmental radon dose to the tracheobronchial epithelium (TBE) (2500 mrem/year.) was not included in whole body dose calculations because that exposure was limited to a small fraction of the body.

      The new method of calculation multiplies the 2500 mrem/year. dose to the TBE by a weighting factor (WF) which allows the dose to the TBE to be included in the ED from environmental radiation exposure Different WFs have been proposed, including 0.12 (EPA), 0.08 ( NCRP) and (NAS-NRC BEIR V), and 0.06 (ICRP). These WFs raise the radon contribution to the whole body from 0 mrem to 300, 200, and 150 mrem respectively. NCRP quotes an uncertainty of +/- 50% in these numbers. Based on these estimates, radon in equilibrium with its daughters delivers 2 times more dose than previously accepted as the total dose received from all sources of natural background exposure (approx. 100 mrem/year on the average in the United States). Thus, it is not surprising that adoption of the effective dose notion by many radiation protection groups (including the NCRP and the EPA in the United States), has led to increased concern regarding the potential health effects of radon. It should be noted that lung cancer risk coefficients from radon are not increased. There are no new cases of lung cancer that led to the increased dose estimate. In fact, the new estimates of radiation dose, imply a lower risk coefficient. That is, when the same number of lung cancer cases that occur are attributed to the higher doses (ED), the risk per unit exposure is decreased. The effective dose concept is discussed at greater length in NCRP Reports #93 (17) and #100 (18) , and ICRP #60 (7).
      TABLE 1

• Posted in: Uncategorized ♦ home foundation repair methods