Cost Of Foundation Repair With Beams

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   Where can I find information to repair my pier and beams on island?
   I live in texas on a coastal island Every rain and my yard floods I need to replace and repair posts beams in silt and sand. If I have to hire it done I still need to know how because most foundation companys around here are less than honest. While at it should I just raise the house up a level?

   • ANSWER:
     Greetings!

     What you really need to do is consult with a structural engineer. Having a contractor without using an engineer, or doing it yourself may void your insurance policy should there be a mishap.
     Also it is not a cheap undertaking. The engineer will also give you an reliable estimate as to what the work would cost.
     Also he would be able to answer questions you have not even thought about yet.

     Good luck

2. QUESTION:
   What is the future of foundation that has been “repaired”?
   I am looking to buy a home that has had foundation repairs due to settling, common in north texas with the clay soil. I am wondering what further problems are possible with relation to the foundation. There is a lifetime warranty, but are there any problems that can arise that are not covered with the warranty?

   • ANSWER:
     It is good that you have a TRANSFERABLE warranty, right? If so, then that is good. Make sure Before you buy the house that if any foundation repair has been done that the foundation repair company is reputable, registered, and is affirmed as having the warranty that can transfer to ALL new owners that come along…not just you.

     That being said, it is possible that foundation issues to still continue for years to come. Slight changes folks say the house is “settling”, but extensive changes are foundation issues and you can’t just sit on it and do nothing. Foundation problems can be from the expansion and contraction of the clay soils or it can be caused by a plumbing break (even ever so slight), so that may need to be checked, as well. If problems still arise, and the weather has been “balanced”, do check the plumbing for leaks under the foundation.

     So, weird very wet and very dry weather (which we just got over a 4 yr drought) can cause foundation issues for slab homes and a break in plumbing can do the same. Sometimes one causes the other, too.

     You mentioned North Texas, well howdy! I’ve lived in Collin County since 1966, and have seen quite a bit when it comes to types of homes built, neighborhoods that have foundation issues up & down the street, and some areas that seem fine.
     We do have strips of soils that are sandy and even shallow of the clay [meaning that rocky limestone is very close to the surface, which helps with foundations, but makes it tough on plants which need deep roots] , which makes for less shifting (Allen). Homes that are on pier & beam actually still have foundation issues, but they are MINOR in cost of repair. The track builders like Fox & Jacobs (Centex today) found that laying concrete slabs for foundations were quick and cheap and that is how all of this started. Other than that, homes were prior to then variations of Pier & Beam. Then other forms of slab came along with tension wires that claimed that were effective in keeping the foundation sound, but they weren’t perfect either.

     KRLD radio – 1080am on your dial has a saturday program that is hosted by an area homebuilder called Tom Tynan, I believe at 2pm. He’s easy to understand and is laid back and seems very honest. You can probably call in and ask him some questions like the one you posted here.

     KRLD can also be found www.krld.com

     Another thing, too. Check with the city building inspector of the town you are interested in. Just for example, the town of Frisco had some mutiple huge issues with foundations a few years ago because it was growing very quickly and many unprofessional builders flew in, built homes with POOR foundations, and they split. Home after home was cracking up, and the city stepped in and put in some very strick building restrictions before that finally cleared up. So, check up on the history of building in the town you are considering. Did they have extreem growth spurts, or was it controlled? Can make a difference! Check around the neighborhoods and look for signs in the yard of foundation work done. If you see a few, its possible that it’s a bad area for homes. This clay was great for the cotton and corn farmers, but it reaks havoc on the slab foundation home. And don’t even think of mobile homes – the old ones were constructed with 2×2’s and are as safe as a matchbox to live in. Even if they are “hurricane tethered” to the ground, and they are constructed with a late model 2×4 beams, and even PLACED on a slab, they will – I repeat WILL blow away with any great gust of wind. Period! So avoid mobile or manufactured homes. Pre-fab may be better, but I wouldn’t put my money there either, even if they do throw in some acerage!

     Be smart. Do your research. Might consider building your own and monitoring the construction. We are in a tornado proned area, so do try to build a reinforced “safety” room in your home for such times that tornado warnings are present.

     Good luck and a TEXAS WELCOME to you!

3. QUESTION:
   How realistic is it to raise a house and redo/repair the foundation? A cost in extremely ball park figures?
   My has a very shallow basement, about 7ft from floor to ceiling, not counting plumping and duct work. There is also a large wooden support beam running half the length of the basement, held up by temporary jacks, that drops that down to around 6ft. Also there are many areas where the previous owner tried to fix the basement ceiling with pieces of sheet rock. I have a mild moisture problem. I will be installing rain gutters. The floor is not well leveled. One wall of the foundation also has a slight bulge to it, and it seems that there may have been cracks or breaks in the walls that they tried to cover up. I may also have a problem with settling, I dont know. The home is built on an extremly narrow lot, 31ft face, with only a couple feet to the property line, and less than 10 feet between my house and the homes to the next. How feasable would it be to redo the entire foundation, raising the house (or lowering the basement floor)?

   • ANSWER:
     I had my house done about 5 years ago they had to put piers in the front of it. And my house was brand new with wood floors throughout the house. It worked wonderful had to make some drywall repairs but it was nice to have it right. The cost was 6000.00 or a little more

4. QUESTION:
   Does anyone know the average cost of repairing the foundation of a 1911 craftsman house (1,549 sqft)?
   The house is located in Los Angeles, CA. and I think the house is being held up by a pier and beam foundation. The floor areas are sinking and some doors and windows are starting to stick. Do we go with a contractor or structural engineer? Has anyone used Servicemagic.com?

   • ANSWER:
     Usually they’ll just put your home up on jacks…it shouldn’t be that much. We got under my house and did it ourselves. The kitchen floor wasn’t even when we moved it and it bothered me!

5. QUESTION:
   how much does it cost to fix the foundation on a house?
   i am looking in to buying a home for 42,000. it is a nice size and has a good amount of yard. however, when i saw it on the inside, i noticed there was some cracks on the cement floor and on some of the walls.i’ve never owned a home and have no clue about the repair costs. im quite sure the foundation is the problem. sounds like hard work and expensive……

   • ANSWER:
     You should get a foundation repair company out there before you make any kind of offer on the house. If the foundation is a slab, they have to jack the house up all along the sides and pour concrete beams or some other type of support. The cost is related to how many supports they have to install. But a badly cracked house can have broken pipes inside the walls and other structural damage from the foundation problems.

     In this housing market, with many homes available for good prices, if I were you I’d keep looking for one in good condition. Foundation problems are usually the problem you can see and any owner who has allowed their home to sag has allowed many other things to deteriorate which you can’t see.

     I say, walk away and keep looking.

6. QUESTION:
   How much does it cost to have a professional pour a 4 or 5 ft foundation (ballpark estimate)?
   I bought a piece of property and I am going to build a 28 ft by 36 ft (1008 sq ft) new home on it. I’m looking for a ballpark amount of how much it would costs to pour a 4 or a 5 ft foundation if all of the digging were already done.

   • ANSWER:
     I don’t want to be a kill joy but your question would be difficult to answer even as a ballpark figure because, 1 you haven’t given us enough information and 2 because a 4 or 5 ft foundation makes little sense, do you mean slab or footing, either way 4 or 5 ft thick is what you’d need for a skyscraper.

     If you meant footings the dimension would be something like this 1 foot wide by 1 1/2 deep depending on your soil type, (reactive soils need heavier footing than the ones I just stated) and then you haven’t given us the internal walls, just the external, so you need to know how many of them you need under load bearing walls?

     And if you meant a slab, you need an edge beam of the same size as for the footings more or less then a 6″ slab on top of that and again you need beams running under any load bearing walls, plus you need again to know what type of soil it’s going onto so to make sure that the foundation won’t fail on you, which would cost a small fortune to repair.

     In short without a drawing and a knowledge of what type of soil you have how could anyone give you an answer.

7. QUESTION:
   how do insurance companies estimate the amount of coverage for your home?
   That is, how do they estimate the amount of living area of your home (sq foot), the cost to repair, etc.

   • ANSWER:
     We have a computer program put out by Marshall Swift/Boeckh. We put in the zip code, year built (yes that matters), # of families, length x width (outside measurements), # of stories, additions with size, foundation type (slab, crawl, basement, walkout, finished, etc), framing type (studs, post & beam, steel, etc), ceiling height (8, 9 or 10 ft), general shape. Also, siding type, roof type (asphalt, metal, slate, etc – whether it is elaborate), any cathedral ceilings, attached structures like garages, porches, balconies & decks (with size). As for the inside we put in quality of kitchen & baths (basic, builders grade, semicustom, custom or designer), # of full, 3/4 & half baths, flooring, wall coverings, ceilings, fireplaces, heat type (hot air, hot water, radiant, including fuel type), any hot tubs or jacuzzis, spiral staircases, elevators, chair lifts, built in bookshelves, special millwork, decorative beams. That is all I can think of off the top of my head. It is a pretty comprehensive program.
     We can also add in architect fees and contractor overhead. It is pretty accurate for most houses. When you start getting up towards 0,000 to ,000,000 plus, it is still best to get a builder that specializes in custom homes to do real appraisal on the rebuilding cost. It may also estimate low if you have an old victorian with turrets, fancy siding & gingerbread & lots of custom woodwork inside. You would want a builders estimate in that case too.
     I hope this helps.

8. QUESTION:
   Which type of foundation is better for a home, a concrete slab or crawlspace? Why?

   • ANSWER:
     Slab foundations depending on the area if you are far south the ground temperatures may not effect you that much. I do prefer the pier and beam or crawl space as worded here because in the imperfect world in which we live there is ground shifting, some areas worst than others. It is more costly to have a foundation repair company go out and level a slab foundation.
     With the pier and beam they can go in with a jack to level the home.
     I would say the pier and beam is the best choice because of future repair and accessibility of plumbing and HVAC lines. but it normally cost more.
     hope this helps

9. QUESTION:
   Trouble with concrete pillars foundation? Should I buy?
   Ok there is this house that I really want to buy. The trouble is that the floors slope and the doors wont shut because they arent lined up correctly. There is obviously some trouble with the foundation. The owner told me of a beam that is broken along the back of the house and you can see where one side of the house slopes. But in other areas in front of the house and in other rooms it slopes then goes back up, its not all local to that beam that is broken. Any idea what could be the cause? Any idea on the costs to repair it? I am guessing it will be a big expense but I really want this house.

   • ANSWER:
     hire a structural inspector to check it out. Sounds like major repairs Big $. thousands of dollars

10. QUESTION:
    Can we build a larger house on a 50-year old foundation?
    We got a 50-year old house. There is evidence that there was foundation shifting. The house itself is in a pretty bad condition so it is possibility that we will tear the one floor house down and build a two-floor house. Now I wonder, if it is possible/desirable to preserve or fix the foundation so we can save some building cost. The house is in Dallas, TX and the old foundation is pier and beam

    • ANSWER:
      Funny you should ask … that is our situation exactly. We bought a new, two-story home that was built on the foundation of a 1950s ranch. We are getting a LOT of settling and buckling of floors. The builder used all the original beams and floor joists and they’re just groaning under all of the additional wait. Plus there was a lot of termite damage that they “repaired” but I’m not sure they did a thorough and strong enough job. As far as I know, the cinder block walls are holding up ok, but the builder finished the basement so there may be some shifting that I can’t see. If I were you I just would not proceed without a competent structural engineer at your side. Best of luck!

11. QUESTION:
    Repairing Foundation help. How much?
    We live in a 800 square foot home and it has had additions put onto it. We realized that our bedroom (about 12×12) does not have any foundation under it. We have our crawlspace but it seems there is no foundation. This has cause half of our house to sink nearly 6 inches. We are planning on gutting the place and redoing the drywall in the spring and we want to pour foundation for that area and fix the floor.

    How much would it cost to jack the corner of the house and pour a new foundation?

    • ANSWER:
      It’s going to take more than that to correct the problem, the addition more than likely will have to be razed and rebuilt. Apparently no thought was given by the dangerous user who did this that a slab or pier-&-beam substructure needed to be built first, and truss/buttresses to support the additional load being placed on the existing structure were needed as well.

      Find a general services contrator to provide you with an estimate, sight unseen you aren’t going to get accurate information on Yahoo Answers. Of course get references and permits before you do anything.

12. QUESTION:
    Why are houses built on cinder blocks?
    I was just curious about this, but how come builders build houses on cinder blocks? If a bank we have doesn’t give us a loan for a home to buy, why do builders build homes on cinder blocks if no one will be able to buy this home because of the bank not letting us? Please reply with the most accurate response!:) Thanks in advance! :))

    • ANSWER:
      I don’t think the cinder block is the problem as much as how they are used and the quality of construction.
      Basement walls and foundations use cinder blocks all the time. At the bottom of the wall is a wider concrete foundation that is below the frost line and wide to spread the load of the home above over a larger area. Much older cheaper homes used posts made of cement or cinder blocks to support the floor beams. That wouldn’t be approved today nor would the home qualify for a new mortgage.
      The foundation under the posts were relatively shallow depending on the heat in the home from allowing the soil to freeze under the house. Frost will lift frozen soil several inches depending on how deep the frost goes. Around here you can see metal fence posts pushed upward out of the ground as much as a foot from the frost pushing up against the collar of concrete attached to the soil line of the post.
      When you buy a house and apply for a mortgage an inspector examines the house to see if it is a worthwhile investment. You don’t own the house until it is paid off. The mortgage company does. They need to make sure the house will last in good repair long enough for you to pay for it. If the house collapses, you leave and they have the mess.
      So if they turn down your app. It not only protects them but you as well. Find another house that will pass the inspection or if you can buy the house on a land contract with the seller and have the deficiencies fixed over time, then buy the house that way. Deduct what it would cost you to bring the house up to a point where it qualifies for a mortgage. If the seller doesn’t agree, find something else.
      Don’t fall in love with the house. It is a business decision more than a love affair.

13. QUESTION:
    roughly how much would it cost to build a small 3 bedroom pier and beam home in texas?

    • ANSWER:
      While I am not sure of the price here is a company that can tell you a huge amount of information.
      http://www.bedrockfoundation.com/pier-and-beam-foundation-repair-dallas-tx.html
      These people repair pier and beam houses. They can tell you what to build and how to build it. Based on what repairs they do, it seems that houses fail later on because they build with cheaper products in the beginning. By this I mean they use small timber supports where larger ones are recommended. This company has good answers on repairing and based on that they sound like they can offer you great information on building.
      I live in Australia and until I read this question didn’t know anything about the company I am telling you about.

14. QUESTION:
    how much does it cost to build a 10 by 12 foot ground deck?
    i want to build a deck 10 by 12 but i want it close to the ground like 2 feet off the ground and i want to know a rough estimate of how much it will cost.

    • ANSWER:
      depends on the type of wood. figure about 120 for sonic tubes and concrete for the foundation, and then about 0-0 for wood (pressure treated), considering you will have to get large planks and also some large cross beams and 4×4 or 8×8 for corners. Same for bannisters, horizontal rails will cost less. Figure another couple hundred for flashing and any repairs where you connect to the house (if it’s not done right you ruin the siding and can let water leak in. Hardware (nails,screws, lag bolts will run about 80 or so at Home Depot.)

      If you are going with cedar or mahogany triple or quadruple that at least. You can’t go with regular pine because it will rot quickly.

15. QUESTION:
    My home shakes daily, to the similarities of an earthquake tremor, due to explosions from a nearby quarry.?
    Would anyone know if these daily tremors would affect the standard wood & sheetrock construction, after 10, 20, 30 or so years? Should a home in such a “non-earthquake zone” be earthquake proofed?

    • ANSWER:
      yes, its possible a house could suffer damages after even one month of these tremors. it depends on the quality and type of products you chose (or the home builder chose) to put into the foundation, and support beams, mainly. the rock quarry might or might not be liable for any damage that may come to your home.

      even if it were something you could tame them to court for, you would need before and after photos, or something similar to show that your home has truly sustained damages due to the rock quarry’s activity. if you have close up photos of small hairline fractures in your foundation (around the base of your house) especially from a couple years ago, compare them to what you see now. if you do not have photos, take some now, and compare them at least a year and a half, to two years later. if you notice a great difference, contact the quarry, and tell them about the problem you are having. they might try and say your problems might have been because of faulty workmanship, but they might also just agree to split the cost of repairs. if you really work on proof, and are able to install a seismograph machine in or around your property, and can photograph a measurable difference between tremors of the cracks in your property (with a lawyers help) you may or may not be able to make them pay the full cost of repairs.

      earthquake proofing your home is an excelent idea, if you truly wish to prolong the life of your home.

16. QUESTION:
    what are some economic activities of virginia?
    what are some economic activities that they have in virginia.
    what are some stuff they grow, manufacter, or any service they mainly do in virginia. it is for a project im doin

    • ANSWER:
      The main activities of Virginia are:
      Agriculture: Cattle, poultry, dairy products, tobacco, hogs, soybeans.
      Industry: Transportation equipment, textiles, food processing, printing, electric equipment, chemicals.

      Notes: Virginia’s gross state product was 6.6 billion. The per capita personal income was ,477 in 2004.
      In 2006 and 2007, Forbes Magazine voted Virginia as having the [ best climate for business] in the United States citing economic growth, business costs/incentives and quality of life. CNBC ranked Virginia as the top state for business in 2007 as well.
      Richmond is one of 12 cities in the country having a Federal Reserve bank. It, along with the New York and San Francisco Federal Reserve banks are the only ones that cover a non-state (Washington, D.C.).
      There are seven Fortune 500 companies headquartered in Northern Virginia, and nine in the Richmond area (most of which are within the city itself.) Only five metro areas in the country have more Fortune 500 companies than the Richmond area. Virginia, arguably the wealthiest southern state before the Civil War, recovered from the Civil War and the Great Depression much faster than the rest of the South. Today, Virginia is still one of the wealthiest states in the South.
      The state’s biotechnology industry is not centralized, but growing, highlighted by the building of the Virginia BioTechnology Research Park biotech incubator in Richmond and the opening of the Howard Hughes Medical Institute’s Janelia Farm in Northern Virginia.

      Virginia’s nanotechnology industry, centered in Hampton Roads and Northern Virginia, accounted for billion in manufactured goods in 2006. Researchers in Hampton Roads, many of whom hold patents in the field, believe the region has an advantage in the commercialization of nanotechnology due to the amount of research, much of it spearheaded by NASA’s Langley Research Center
      Virginians provide a vast array of services and manufactured goods to customers throughout the world. Our manufacturing base continues to be strong, producing everything from steel beams, wood flooring and trucks to semiconductors, robots and rocket engines. As the birthplace of the Internet and one of the leading centers of software development, Virginia’s high-technology economy continues to expand. And as one of four U.S. states currently licensed and capable of launching communications satellites and other commercial payloads into space, Virginia has all the right assets to continue our economic leadership throughout the 21st century.

      Fast Fact

      AeA, the nation’s largest trade association representing all segments of the high-tech industry, has ranked Virginia as the national leader for its concentration of high-tech workers according to their recent report, Cyberstates 2007: A Complete State-by-State Overview of the High-Technology Industry.

      More than 11,500 high-tech companies operate in Virginia.
      Nearly 60 firms with annual revenue over 0 million are headquartered in Virginia.
      Virginia is headquarters to 29 Fortune 1000 firms.
      More than 770 foreign-affiliated firms are located in the Commonwealth.
      Virginia ranks third among the 50 states as a recipient of federal R&D funds.
      Virginia ranks 10th in terms of venture capital deals and 11th for total venture dollars invested.
      Virginia ranks among the top 10 states best adapting to recent changes in the U.S. economy, according to “The 2007 State New Economy Index” published by the Information Technology and Innovation Foundation and the Ewing Marion Kauffman Foundation.
      Virginia exported .1 billion of merchandise in 2006.
      Among top 25 industries invirginia are Cigarettes, Ship building and repair, commercial printing, paper and paper boards, automobile parts, plastic products, plumbing products, pharmaceuticals and medicine, Organic fibres, automobiles and light trucks, brewaries, pachaging material, semi conductor devices, navigation instruments, tires, saw mills, wooden furnitures/ doors/ windows, poer bioler and heat exchanger, heavy duty trucks, ready-mix concrete.
      Virginia has or plans industrial clusters in the following areas:
      Aerospace
      Automotive
      Biosciences
      Distribution
      Electronics
      Financial Services
      Food Processing
      Motorsports
      Plastics

17. QUESTION:
    Load Bearing Wall?
    Does anyone please have and idea of how much it would roughly cost to removed a load bearing wall, which is between the kitchen and dining room, to make it a kitchen dinner? The wall is 114 inches wide.

    Many thanks

    • ANSWER:
      Since this wall is less than 10′, the new members will fit withing the 3 1/2 space of the existing wall, plus 1.

      First step will be to remove the wall covering (drywall probably) and determine whats gotta happen with any mechanicals in the wall. Step two is to build a temporary support wall on both sides of the existing wall. These two steps should take a lead and a helper 1 day Budget = 0, plus disposal.

      AFTER the mechanicals have been dealt with(cost = at least 0), remove the existing wall studs and elements, manufacture and install a beam (I would think 3 – 2 x 10’s laminated would carry the load, the dicey and hard to price part of the job comes now. You (or the builder) have to determine the how to get the bearing points (the ends) structured as to transfer that load to the foundation. I would budget 0-1000 for this phase. Cutting the floor joists above and installing a header is possible, But I would think it would at least double (probably triple) the cost of the beam method

      Then the finishing. Drywalling around the beam would be cheapest. But there are alternatives to this but the cost will rise. Other factors to consider in costing this job will include floor repair/replacement, re-trimming, removal of debris, repairs to adjoining walls, clean up etc.

      This, as any job is, nearly impossible to estimate with out seeing the home. Because there are so variables, such as: are the walls drywall or plaster and lathe; 8′ foot ceilings?, any existing kitchen cabinets to deal with etc etc. . . .

      Hope this helps . . . .

18. QUESTION:
    is there anything that can cover stretchmarks?
    Is there anything that can cover stretchmarks and not make them noticable? eg. make up foundation. If you have any idea please name the product brand. Thanks guys

    • ANSWER:
      Start early. Once they pass the initial stage (when they are red, purple, pink, or brown, depending on the color of your skin) and become white or silver (usually with deep indentation), it’s far more difficult to minimize them.[1]
      Massage the area with stretch marks three or four times a day with moisturizers that contain cocoa butter or shea butter as a prime ingredient. This hydrates the skin, making it more pliant. Again, this is most effective in the initial stage.[1]
      Apply self-tanner. It will help minimize the appearance of stretch marks. Exfoliate beforehand for best results.[2]
      Educate yourself about topical treatments. Many are advertised to “repair” stretch marks, but few have actually been proven to be effective. Here’s the scoop on what’s available:

      Wheat germ oil – may help improve stretch marks in their early phase.[1]
      Glycolic acid – increases collagen production; can be administered in higher doses by a dermatologist (costs about 0 USD and requires three or four office visits before you see results); has not been fully studied by itself[1]
      Vitamin C – certain formulations might increase collagen production, but they’ll only help with early-stage stretch marks; for best results, combine with glycolic acid; taking 500 mg of Vitamin C supplements three times a day may also help.[1]
      Relastin – the effectiveness of this product is unknown and unverified[1]
      Peptide-containing products – these “repair” creams are ineffective; there’s no evidence that they work.[1]
      Retinoids – they’re fairly effective in increasing collagen and elastic production in the early stages, but they should be avoided if you’re pregnant or nursing; they’re more effective when used in combination with glycolic acid.[1]
      Topical tretinoin can lighten stretch marks and reduce their size if applied in the earlier stages.[3] Specifically, tretinoin cream is effective against stretch marks that are less than 6 weeks old, and are still pink or red, but it should not be used during pregnancy. It works by helping to rebuild collagen, but it’s not effective against older stretch marks.[4]
      Consider laser treatment. It’s used to treat both red/purple and white stretch marks, and generally it works by promoting the formation of collagen. It can be expensive, however, and effectiveness is limited.

      vascular lasers – won’t remove superficial skin, but are effective against redness by treating the blood vessels behind it; E.g. V-Beam, requires three to six sessions, about 0 per session[1]
      fractionated laser – minimizes older, more entrenched stretch marks in a process comparable to “smudging”; expect to pay around 00 USD per session, and you’ll need at least three sessions; yields about a 30% improvement.[1] new generation fractional lasers can improve depressed skin, whiteness, and redness in one to three sessions[5]
      pulsed dye laser therapy “remodels” the underlying layers of skin and trigger the production of collagen and elastin; it’s most effective on new stretch marks, but might be effective on older ones.[4] The light heats blood vessels and makes them collapse so that the color is reduced, but it doesn’t affect texture. Five treatments, one month apart, 0-800 per treatment.[2] It is not recommended for anyone with a dark skin tone (Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV, V or VI) because of the potential for skin discoloration, and it should not be used while pregnant or nursing.[6]
      fractional photothermolysis also targets the underlying layers of skin; it damages small dot-like areas, not the entire area.[4]
      the excimer laser triggers melanin production so that stretch marks take on the same color as the surrounding skin. This can be effective against older stretch marks.[4] Excimer laser is for older marks. 10-20 treatments, two weeks apart, 0-700 per treatment.[2]
      Look into microdermabrasion. Microdermabrasion works by blowing crystals onto the skin to “polish” the surface; it’s followed by a vacuum tube that removes the crystals and skin cells, stimulating new skin growth. This is effective against older stretch marks.[4]

      Stretch mark removal is usually not covered by insurance because it’s a cosmetic procedure.
      Other alternative therapies do exist (castor or olive oil, seaweed wraps, or combinations of botanicals, vitamins and fruit acids) but have not been proven effective.[4]
      Surgical procedures that involve the removal of skin (eg. a tummy tuck) can result in the removal of stretch marks.

      Always check the ingredients list before applying a new skin care product. This is especially important when you are pregnant or nursing.
      Most treatments are partially effective, at best. Keep your expectations realistic.

      x0x0_LEi

19. QUESTION:
    House Foundation Cost?
    I’m going to have my brick Foundation replaced. It’s only the back half of the house that really needs it but I’ve been told that any brick foundation should be replaced. How much should I expect to pay for a new foundation? I will also need to have the house & foundation seimic retrofitted. I’m the the Bay Area (northern California). Also, one contractor that I spoke with said that they would put a new foundation down in two sessions, the back first then the front. I thought I read somewhere that all the concrete should be poured at one time.

    • ANSWER:
      Foundations are usually concrete, even pier an beam, or crawl space homes. If your home is brick and built above the ground with brick around the perimeter of the house it is often called foundation, but a true foundation supports the house, not hides it, even in San Francisco.

      A home built with a covering of brick hiding the underside of the home is pier and beam or crawl space foundation so the brick doesn’t really support it, it just covers up what’s hidden underneath.

      The type of problem you describe is common for many homes built on piers. The mortar holding the bricks together will deteriorate over time and gradually the bricks hiding the underpinnings of your house will fall apart exposing the underside of your home to anyone who cares to look.

      This can be repaired or it can be replaced and you can do the work yourself if you don’t mind learning a new skill. If the missing brick is still around you can clean it up and get yourself some mortar mix or mix up your own with a little cement, sand and water. All it takes is time and you’ll learn how to do it best as you go.

      If the brick on your home’s foundation is all that concerns you, it can be done in stages or all at once. But, if it truly is concrete being poured, it should all be done at once to avoid weakness in the finished product and seams where it should be smooth.

      If it’s brick work and you’re willing to do it yourself, the cost can be as little as with you doing all the brick cleaning and re-mortaring, but if you hire it done this can cost several thousands of dollars, depending on the honesty and integrity of who you hire.

      No one can put a price on someone else’s work and without dimensions, height and perimeter or length of distance to cover, it would be impossible for anyone to give you an exact figure, and then only if they were doing the work.

20. QUESTION:
    Repairing my front porch?
    i Just bought my home and attached to the front of the house is a concrete porch that is the same height of the house on its pier and beam foundation but its slowly moving away from the front of the house. there is a 1 inch gap in between the porch and the house and the front right corner is badly sloping towards the ground, the previous owners attached an additional 3 support beams to the existing two that connect the porch to the roofthat extends out over the porch for more support. anyhow is there a way i can repair this and how much it would cost? any ideas? thanks in advance.

    PS – should i rip it out and replace it or repair it? PRICES PRICES

    • ANSWER:
      The ground is sinking on the end not at the house from the weight. The entire thing would sink a little but the end towards the house is sitting on the footers of the house so it will not sink. The only things you can do is leave it alone, replace it, or put some quikcrete in the gap.
      You can not just lift the porch up if it off the ground and has steps because it is filled. But if it is a slab that is on the ground. it is possible to use a bottle jack and raise it up. But then you have the daunting task of getting more concrete under the slab which is a real big pain in the azz.

      Personally, I would replace it with a wood porch.

      Pictures would help explain if it could be fixed or not.

21. QUESTION:
    I need law advice in texas about if I am able to sue the previous owner of my home regarding foundation?
    So my husband and I purchased our home about 4 months ago. We knew the home had foundation issues going into it but it came with a lifetime waranty on the majority of the piers inside the home and a 2 year warranty on the piers on the extension at the back of the home so we werent concerned. We specifically asked if the waranty on both would be transferable and valid via email and the sellers realtor said it was (I have this email). Now we had some cracking in the walls at the back of the house near where the extension was and we called the repair company. They come out and say that it is because the extension is sinking however (all the piers in question should of been covered), so I think its fine because we still have a year left on the waranty with the other company. However the foundation guy says that if we have the other company do the repair it will Null the waranty on the house, and that in fact there is very good chance since the foundation work done on the extension happend after the original work was done on the house that our waranty may already be nulled. So essentially I have two options to keep my house fully covered under waranty, both places offer the option to absorb the others waranty for a large price per beam, but in order to get the house fixed I have to pick one, and either pay to absorb the whole house warranty and have the repairs for free under my warranty or pay to have the repairs done from scratch (which would actually be cheaper) and the company will overlook the previous error on the part of the previous owner. This all being said my house needs to be fixed, Can I go back to the original owner for the cost based on the fact that he sold me the home when the warranty was no good because of how he did the repairs? He never lived there and does these home renovations for a liveing, so I am assumeing he knew that by getting the repairs from some one else instead of the original foundation guy he would void the warranty. The fact that I specifically asked if all my warrantys were good- and purchased the home based on this, do I have a case to sue him? And should I take the cheapest route to just redo the repair, when my whole basis for the lawsuit would be that he nulled the other waranty? PLEASE HELP! Either way Im looking to be spending in the thousands which I dont think is fair since this part of the home was promised to be covered when we purchased.
    I did have a home inspection, includeing a specific founcdation inspection. At the time there were no ongoing issues. As for prooveing the owner knew that it would void the waranty it is stipulated on the back of the waranty that if any work is done that it would void it. So by this right he should have known
    I also have an email confirming (as stated above) from my realtor to his asking that all warrantys are valid. And they confirmed, I wouldnt have been allowed to confirm with the companys as the warrantys werent in my name until the house was sold. That being said the first company didnt know about the second pier repair until I mentioned it not knowing myself that this would void the first.

    • ANSWER:
      A couple of points and neither of them are in your favor as far as a successful suit goes.

      You should have had a home inspection done prior to purchase.

      You should have confirmed with what every company was providing a warranty that it was in good standing and that nothing had been done that might void that warranty. An email from the realtor isn’t proper due diligence.

22. QUESTION:
    Repair or replace outside deck?
    I don’t know anything about decks and would like some advice from those that do. I’ve got a deck outside (12x12ft) that the previous owners of our home apparently painted with regular paint. Now, 2 yrs later we’ve got a very rotten support beam and two rotten side boards that are just outer and dont hold anything up but they look very bad due to black rotting and algae (also paint starting to peel all over). I spoke with some companies and was told that it may not be possible to get the regular paint off of it all in order to put an appropriate stain on it and if they could get it all off it may damage the wood, look bad, or just not last more than a few yrs since they said getting the paint off can damage the wood more. We got an est to only replace the two rotten boards and the support beam as well as stain those replaced pieces for 0. The other wood which looks decent now would not be touched. They said the cost to try and strip all the paint off and replace all bottom boards and steps to make it easier would be 00. The odd part is they told us to completely take down this deck, haul it away & build a new one and put a stain on it would be 00, so obviously it is either fix bad parts or replace it entirely. This expense is a surprise to us as the inspector of the house said the deck should last 5 to 10 yrs more, but he didnt know that the owners used regular paint.

    For those that know about decking. Is it better to spend the 0 now and just wait it out and see if the other decking holds up better since there isnt any other rot except what i said above? Or, should you grin and bear it and replace the deck now. I’m guessing a new deck would last 20 + yrs right? I dont know how we’d scoop up the money for a new deck right now, yet i dont want to waste 0 to fix bad parts and then more spots start to rot a few more yrs later and we’d be back at the same place again. Also, since one piece is a support beam that is really starting to rot, the deck i guess will become unsafe if u just let it set as is. We don’t use the deck much, yet its nice to have & its a split level house so there has to be something there in its place.
    Thanks for the current suggestions everyone. One user said that we should wait to make it larger in the future.
    The deck has to stay the same size it is now, no bigger as we have a large sewer pipe right where the deck ends now.
    Also, we spoke with another company and they said that a new deck typically ranges around 00 +. He hasn’t given us an actual quote yet though as he’s still working on it.
    This is why I thought 00 for a new deck wasn’t too terrible.
    NOTE: I just realized that our deck has one lading also. I was told that this increases the costs. It has i’m guessing a typical 4x4ft landing.

    • ANSWER:
      TeraByte, I really think that you are in a situation in which–that without even having the advantage of looking at the deck in person–the deck needs to be totally replaced. Suffice it to say, with the probability of further damaging the wood in the process of removing the paint means that you are very likely throwing money away in attempting to salvage the deck as a whole. I think you’d sleep better at night knowing that the deck has been totally replaced. (Otherwise, you know, it just came to me, what if the rotting deck has other hidden dangers, like termites, since the rotting is indicative of the fact that mositure got through, which termites love.) Starting from scratch–building on “a solid foundation” seems best.

      For your convenience, in considering the replacement of the deck, if you have not been told of all the considerations involved in building a new deck, here’s an informative handyman article that provides you with a list of new-deck-installation considerations:

      http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Home_Improvement_Zone_Decks_Porches_Some_Things_To_Consider_In_Planning_For_Deck_Installation.htm

      As to the price estimate you got–seemingly from ONLY one contractor–it seems outrageous. You know, as to your deck project, you should get a few more written estimates, especially since I see that you are uncomfortable with the pricing as well. With that said, many local decking contractors are willing to provide free estimates with no obligation, and you should utilize this to answer your cost question. Relying on guesses found here on Yah is not recommended, as many factors–including that material and labor costs vary by location–affect the cost of what you are intending to do. (So, in a nutshell, the price quotes you are showing on here, asking whether they are reasonable, is really an apples-to-oranges comparison you do not want to make–you’ll only compound the confusion for yourself.)

      Plus, keep in mind that if you negotiate well with the decking contractor and he buys the materials (i.e, the wood, etc.) for you, you may try to have him pass the discounted cost of the materials to you, as usually contractors get discounts (called “contractor’s discounts” / “contractor’s price”) when buying from home improvement stores because of the many purchases they make as required by their jobs.

      So, to help you out, here is a great link to a handyman site that offers free very resourceful information to assist you in determining the cost of your project, and, eventually, finding local decking contractors with intention of getting a good deal for you:

      INFO ON LOCAL DECKING CONTRACTORS:

      http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_Free_Estimates_Decks.htm

      I’m hopeful the above will provide you with the information that is necessary to make a wise consumer choice, including helpful guidance in obtaining free written estimates from the local contractors in your area so that you can make an informed decision about your project.
      .

      .
      Source(s):
      Online sources, as noted. Being informed is critical in making right deicisions; I have found the Internet helps in this area. Some are not as effective in navigating the Internet to get the information they need, so with the intention of helping, I rely on my knowledge, including from my development of sites, such as the one cited above, to help those who need, hoping they will, in turn, help others.

23. QUESTION:
    help with foundation of house?
    Hi, I am looking to fix the foundation of my house. Im pretty sure its in bad shape. My house kind of sinks in the middle. I have a crawlspace and have a bunch of money (10,000) saved up to fix it. any more info or if you are a pro please email me. WHat should i do first? how much will this cost? how long will it take? im getting this house from my mom
    live in ohio 20 mins from cleveland
    like who should i call? do i look up engineer in the phone book?
    bob looks like the clear winner so far!

    • ANSWER:
      When you say “my house kind of sinks in the middle” and you are accurate, the problems could be a carrying beam down the middle of the house is weak or indeed the foundation for posts support this beam are settling and thus allowing the middle to sink. If the outside walls that carry the floor and roof loads are sound, fixing the interior supports may be a simpler undertaking. If the floor is supported by joints that run from one side of the house to the other and they are sagging, you may be able to add a mid-span support beam after first jacking the floor up to level. What you don’t want your Mom to hand you is a house with exterior bearing walls failing to hold up their loads. This condition can be fixed but it would break your bank by multiples, by exponential factors if the house had a basement.

      In my experience the most common cause of sagging is rotted wood and a far second is termite damage. Both of these conditions are aggravated by moisture, either poor drainage with standing water under or around the house or roof leaks rendering some support members eternally wet. This of course assumes the house originally was built level, plumb and capable of carrying intended loads. In your part of the country there are building codes that dictate some minimum construction criteria that should address those conditions.

      The house rehab business is a bit slow now that the housing market has slowed so you may be able to round up a contractor willing to assess the problem and work up a repair estimate. Try the yellow pages or local advertisements for home repair contractors. I suggest you not mention the funds you have socked away because that will either get you a no response or a higher than needed price.

      Good luck.

24. QUESTION:
    Need to know what maintenance is needed for FHA loan?
    I’m looking at an older home that needs A LOT of little tiny things. Before we get the assessment done, our seller did agree to 0 in maintenance, but no more – so, I need to know what of these little things we need to get him to do before we get the assessment. I know it will cost a lot more than 0, and we’ll need to repair some things afterwords to qualify, I’m sure, but what of the following (and I’m not even going to list everything) should we do before we order the appraisal?

    1. Tree branches resting on service wires.
    2. needs gutters
    3. decayed wood on windows/ door trim – needs protective finish – these are older, and there are not that many spots that are bad, just a few here and there.
    4. foundation – cracks along mortar joints
    5. Chimney – cracked cap. Deteriorated bricks/ mortar, loose/ missing bricks, needs cap and screen on top – fireplace missing damper door.
    6. garage – decayed and deteriorated sill plate (only one wall, only small area)
    7. Garage Electrical – connections not made in junction box, lacks ground, altered wiring
    8. Basement Electrical – disconnected wires not removed
    9. Main Electrical – open knockouts on service panel, lack separation of grounds/ neutrals, disconnected wiring/ outlets not removed, lacks ground in 3 prong outlet at beam.
    10. Plumbing water leak at service entry – copper and galvanized piping are touching, open waste lines
    11. Kitchen – recommended GFCI outlets
    12. Bathroom – GFCI didn’t trip, sink has s-trap
    13. Bedroom doors – only half stained

    Those are the bigger things – like I said there are a lot of tiny things wrong, but that’s going to happen in my price range. The reason I am asking is because we want to get into this house – we will do almost every single one of these repairs as soon as our stimulus money comes in – but that won’t be until after the sale is finalized, and we’d like to work towards that first, and wasting 0 on something major that the FHA doesn’t care about is not a good idea in our circumstances! If you are knowledgeable about these things, just listing the numbers of the most important thing the assessor will look at would be very helpful. Thank you.
    the foundation isn’t bad – it’s minor, easy repair that just takes time – the floors and heater are practically new, nothing wrong with them at all.

    • ANSWER:
      The foundation is the only thing on your list FHA will care about. It depends on how bad it is. minor cracks mean nothing, there is steel inside the concrete.

      The other things they will look at that you did not mention is a heater and flooring, you have to have floor covering of some sort.

      None of this other stuff would prevent a loan.

25. QUESTION:
    A real estate agent gave me a mls listing that was by owner. Do I have to pay my real estate agent?
    My real estate agent gave me a mls listing. She did not go with me to see this house or even contact the owner. I luv the house and Im thinking of buying it. The guy selling the house said, forget about the realestate agent and I could get the house reduced by the amount it would cost to pay my agent. My agent has shown me about 10 different house and has been looking for house that meet my criteria. So I feel guilty if I do this. BUt then again its alot of money i could save. Could the agent go after me or the owner in a lawsuit.

    • ANSWER:
      Typically, the seller pays commissions & not the buyer, unless you are in some sort of Buyer Brokerage Agreement where you agreed to pay an agent. If this home is listed in the MLS, why is it allowed to be a FSBO? An “exclusion” may render certain known parties to be able to purchase this home from the seller without the seller paying a commission to the listing office.

      Unless you are a seasoned home buyer & have been through this process many, many times, I’d highly advise you take the assistance of a licensed professional.

      It is true you may save some by buying the house at a lower price, but you also will have no representation or assistance in the process. To whom will you make out your earnest money check? The seller? What if he cashes it & spends it & you have no means of him refunding it to you should you decide the house is in too bad of condition after it is inspected because there is a bunch of dry rot in the foundation beams?

      What if he decides a week later that someone else is willing to offer more than you did & he now tells you he is voiding your contract? Do you know your legal rights? Chances are if he’s willing to cut agent’s out of it today, he’d cut you out as well, if the right motivation came his way.

      Who will handle your escrow? Order inspections and in what order do you have them done? Appraisal first or home inspection?

      What if your structural inspection yields problems with the house, but you find yourself frustrated in getting the seller to agree to make any repairs or corrections?

      What if moving day comes & you open the door to your new home, only to find the seller has removed all the lighting & plumbing fixtures? Or the seller never made any of the repairs he agreed to? Left the house with a bunch of garbage inside?

      There are many horror stories. Also as many good, but it’s a risk going through this process on your own without representation from a professional.

26. QUESTION:
    Is it worth buying a property to demolish the house for salvage and resell the land?
    I am in the process of buying a property in a residential area with a recently condemned house on it.
    It was listed for ,000 but I’ve talked the price down to ,000 and put down earnest money but have not signed the contract yet.

    It’s a pier & beam 1/5 acre lot with a 1265sf timber/wood plank siding (no brick) home built in 1960. The city does not require asbestos abatement for residential properties and it’s definitely beyond repair.

    The whole back of the house is starting to collapse and it has no wiring, limited plumbing, mold, water damage, half destroyed interior, falling ceiling and sagging roof line as well as a faulty unleveled foundation.

    The house is scheduled for a hearing with the city in March (for demolition review…city demo would be 30 days after the review at the soonest) and the only taxes due on the property are last years (00) which I worked into the final price.

    Land in this area seems to go for around k-k for similar sized lots (1/5 acres) and homes sell for anywhere from -0k depending on the condition and size.

    I’ve never done this before and would like to hear from someone who has experience with similar situations – either flipping condemned properties or demolition or salvage.

    Are there common pitfalls involved in buying a condemned property and knocking it down?
    Does it seem like a good deal?
    Is there any money in attempting to salvage the lumber?
    Is there anything else I should be aware of when dealing with condemned properties?

    • ANSWER:
      Well since you know the front and back end of the deals (k to buy and k to sell, the only question is the economics of the demo.

      Unless there is a market for used wood in your area, and if there is sufficient space around the area, have you considered donating the BUILDING to the fire department for training? You can condition the donation to a complete ‘burn’ and possibly even the cleanup.

      That would cover a bunch of permits and reduce your demolition costs significantly…

      PLUS.. you prob. could write off the cost of the building on your taxes against your profit since it is a donation.

27. QUESTION:
    home owner total loss?
    Hi, we recently had a small tornado the insurance adjuster listed the damage as “wind damage”, anyway a huge tree fell through our home breaking floor beams, cracking the foundation. The fireplace was totally destroyedSufficeice it to say that one half of the house was ruined the kitchen and dinning room were left unharmed. The insurance adjuster said there was 94,000 dollars in damage. We had 3 different contractors give us estimatranginging from 166,000- 180,000. The adjuster did not list in his adjustment the damage to the floor joists or cracked foundation. I failed to mention that our policy limit is 134,000. How do we get the insurance company to give us a total loss on this home. We have been at this for nearly 2 months and the adjusthasn’tsnt been back out to talk to the contractor yet? As a matter of fact he stood us up and did not reschedule. He is a catastrophe adjuster and has gone back Louisiananna. We are in Arkansas. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Dana
    Thank you for the answer, however I don’t think you understand my situation. I realize a home is not like a car, however we have a 134,000 with coverage A, then 56,000 for overage. We have 97,000 in personal property. Having said that we received 85,000 for what the adjuster thought was damaged however he did not go under the house to see the damage to the floor joists and told us he showed pictures to a structural engineer and he said there was no structural damage. haha what a joke you can see the house pushed off the foundation a bit and cracks in the foundation blocks. The check we received was enough to pay off our mortgage. We bought a foreclosed house and fixed it up ourselves. Our contractor said it will cost more to fix this mess than to build a new one so this is the cross road we are at. FYI it is a 2000 sq.ft house. We are’nt under insured we are in Arkansas…… We can can build a new brick home with 2089 sq ft for 168,900 here. thanks again.

    • ANSWER:
      Homeowners insurance isn’t like car insurance. You don’t “total out” a house.

      Most policies, are based on a cost to rebuild.

      So. unless your house is about a total of 700 square feet, you are seriously underinsured. Now that it’s claim time, you’re going to pay the price for that – literally.

      Your adjuster should be sending you paperwork. Included in that, will be a “coinsurance calculation” and a “coinsurance penalty”.

      If your policy has a 100% coinsurance requirement – meaning, you have to insure the house, for 100% of the cost to rebuild, AND, the actual cost to replace your house is about 0,000 (rounding to make it easier), then you only insured your house for HALF of what you should have. That means, you only get HALF of the claim – you SELF INSURED the other half.

      Your agent needs to sit down with you and explain this.

      If your claim has a 50% coinsurance PENALTY, that means the company pays half the cost to repair, and you pay half the cost to repair. Sounds like you WILL have SOME coinsurance penalty on this house, but it might not be that high.

      Now, when the insurance company pays, they pay depreciated value, until after the repairs are done – and THEN, they give you the difference between depreciated value and replacement cost. Oh, and the check gets made out jointly to you and your mortgage company, if you have one – so you can’t cash it.

      You’ve got a HUGE mess on your hands, if you’re actually underinsured – which is what it sounds like to me. Time to call your agent, and put them to work. They can tell you the coinsurance penalty on this, and you can figure out if you can come up with the extra repair money you’re going to need, to get the house fixed.

28. QUESTION:
    Giiiaaannnt cracks in ceiling, getting bigger (uneven too) and now big crack in the wall, whats up with this?
    … house isn’t even 9 years old yet X_X

    The foundation is maintained (kept moist/we live in texas). I haven’t been home much over the summer but this huge crack has been forming in the celing since not long after we moved here (and its been 3 years) Part of the celing is actually now lower then the other in that spot. Another crack is forming near it, and now theres a crack in the wall, I can also spot a small crack in the corner of this room (the big cracks are in the living area).

    The doors still close normally.

    I don’t think the ceiling is properly supported, its a large expansion of space with nothing really holding it up. But then the wall crack appeared. Theres also a leak from the ceiling along that same wall, but down a little ways.

    I know this is going to cost an arm and a leg to fix X__X Has anyone seen anything like this before, got an idea of what might be causing it? Is it the foundation or is there something wrong with the ceiling itself?

    My mom REALLY needs to call someone to fix it (but currently can’t afford it)

    I’m afraid of it possibly collapsing on itself one day (it doesnt look like it will happen anytime soon though), and well, it is an eyesore.
    There’s no damage to the outside of the house.

    • ANSWER:
      Dear Arei,

      The foundation, of the inner bearing walls, of a garden apartment, I once lived in, settled nearly two inches, over time. The roof, was a trussed roof, supported by the outer walls, which were not sinking. The sinking walls, pulled down the ceiling sheetrock, from the overhead rafters of the trussed roof. The trussed roof, solely supported by the outer wall, was not moving.

      Does this describe, what is going on in your home? Is the ceiling sheetrock, curved, near one or more inner walls. Have you checked the floors, to see if they are level? Possibly, there is a center wall in your basement, or a row of steel poles, supporting a long hefty beam, that may be sagging. Something you could check with a level.

      If the problem is caused by settling, the repairs may not be as bad as you may think. The beams, can be repositioned with jacks, and appropriately shimmed. Fixing the cracks, is a little more than cosmetic.

      I recommend, you get written estimates from several different contractors. Also, check if the home has a warranty. A new home can have a ten year warranty, that stays with the home when it is sold. Also, sellers and realtors, are responsible to disclose preexisting conditions; you may have legal recourse. Lastly, you may be able to hold the builder responsible, for poor design, or failure to comply with applicable building codes.

      I wish you the best,

      Larry

29. QUESTION:
    Another question about termites… >>?
    I have dry wood termites in my house, and my neighbors are also infested, they live very close, like 15 feet away. I was going to have the house tented, but I worry about them coming right back and the exterminators have raised their prices again. From 1200 they quoted me now it is up to 00 and I would have to pay for a motel and throw out all my food, etc.So I was thinking, I want to reside my house anyhow, and I was wondering would it be better to put that money towards residing my house, and checking the sheathing for damage and treating the sheathing with termaticide and replacing the damaged sheathing? My boyfriend said he knows how to reside houses and right now this house has metal siding, and two people have told me it is sheathed with yellow pine. The metal siding is pretty old and has holes and some pieces missing… and it has parts where they used two different types of metal siding. Also, we would save up money to replace the roof, which my boyfriend knows how to do as well, and replace any damaged 2×4’s and treat the whole thing with termaticide? Would that be a better option? I am told that drywood termites work slowly when they are in your house, but who knows how long they have really been here, the house is 65 years old. Also, my boyfriend said he would crawl under the house and spray the cross beams and floors with termaticide. There is now way we would be able to replace them because the house is on blocks to keep it off the ground, there is no foundation and part of it is build right on cement with boards laid over it for the floor. I want to replce the floors in that area anyhow, would it be an option to rip up the peel and stick lenolium they laid right over the sub floor and treat/replace any damaged wood? Thanks!!
    That is my point about the tenting, if the neighbors wont tent, and they rent so they wont pay for it, and their landlord doesn’t seem too concerned, and I am positive the squatters behind me have termtes, what is the point of fumigating right now when my house is so suceptable to reinfestation? To buy another house would cost a hell of alot more than to do extensive rennovations here and another house would probobly have the same problems if not more problems than this one. I paid only 23,000 for this house and it was appraised at 100k. I do not have alot of money I paid cash for this house and I would have to save the money over the next year to do all of this work. Sorry I wasn’t clear. I have fallen in love with this house and the location is really prime for Orlando. HELP!!

    • ANSWER:
      You’ve obviously put a lot of thought into this one. To really exclude drywood termites from a house you have to poison the entirety of each and every bit of timber they might use. That’s a massive job.

      Some people like to inject boron salts, others like to use orange oil (though it is a bit like turpentine: http://drdons.net/what-about-orange-oil-drywood-termites ). Either way, that’s a lot of work. A normal insecticide like permethrin might also work but boron also prevents decay and it doesn’t break down over time.

      The ideal thing for you to do would be to rip it apart, replacing the siding, the roof and all damaged timbers before treating everything else against re-infestation. Really, it might well turn out to be better to move.

      One of the problems with drywood termites is that a house can have hundreds of little colonies. They don’t come in via soil tunnels, they just fly in and take up residence. When these are gassed, the hollows they made are open and waiting for others to move in. That’s why remedial wood preservatives can help. So can a good coat of paint, just as long as they don’t think your timber is food BUT you need to cover every single kick hole they made and to make sure than every timber is well coated. They can get in via a hole about as big as this: o If you miss any such holes, they job is a bust and they’ll be back and harder to find.

      The floor frame and beams can be sprayed, but if at all hollowed or showing any sign of split or rot, they should be drilled and injected.

      The best thing you could do is to get a proper inspection done with a written report detailing every infested bit and all the risk factors. It will be necessary to let your inspector remove bits to get a good look. That way you can get an idea of the total cost and chances of success.

      My advice is that you should fumigate and then begin the repairs you can afford. Fumigation kills all that are there right away. Food can usually be triple-bagged and left. Check with the fumigator. Maybe put it in another house for the time? Neighbors often have furniture they’d like to have fumigated and are be happy to help.

      If the fumigation company can do two houses next to each other at the same time, their costs are way down and you should get a much better price. Check with your neighbor or ask along the street. Don’t be afraid to get lots of quotes for the job. Business isn’t great and they really need your money.

      For your repairs, buy timber that is already preserved and be sure to re-treat any cut ends or holes as the treatment doesn’t go all the way through. The boron salt (http://www.nisuscorp.com/portal/page/portal/Nisus/categories/homeowners/products/boraCare ) is probably the best option since termiticides don’t last as long these days, particularly when they get hot, or wet or touch metals.

30. QUESTION:
    How can you tell if your house extension is sturdy?
    I just purchased a house with a brick house extension which is approx 40 years old and is about 3 feet off the ground (crawl space under the house). I believe the floor is made of cement and on the inside, the floor has a layer of plywood, a rug pad, and a wall-to-wall carpet. When anyone walks across the floor, you can feel it vibrating and footsteps make a different sound at the center of the floor as opposed to the parts closest to the walls. I am replacing the wall-to-wall carpet with an oak floor on top of the plywood. Does it sound like the floor may not be sturdy enough to handle the weight of the extra wood or a lot of people, etc.? The engineer who did the inspection did not indicate any issue, but I am not sure. Does anyone have any thoughts on or experience with this? I initially thought the extension would be great for entertaining/parties, but am having second thoughts. Appreciate any advice.
    Thank you both for your responses. One thing I’m not sure I understood, do you mean that there is nothing beneath the plywood except for an open crawl space? I’m assuming that joists are some sort of support structures, so you’re suggesting that those may need repair.

    I called the engineer who did the inspection and he claims the extension (about 300 sq ft) has a concrete foundation. Just to provide more info, the floor of the extension is about 3 feet off the ground. I could take a flash light to try to check underneath the structure. The floor person is also coming tomorrow, but I’m not sure if there is any plan to remove the current plywood.

    As per your advice, I think I’ll have to find a structural engineer to take another look.

    • ANSWER:
      When you remove the carpeting and pad and get to the plywood..lift it and inspect underneath. If it has a crawl space under that – It’s not cement. Check the joists or have someone do it that’s qualified. It may be as simple as putting in a few more supports between the beams. They may not have been leveled correctly. They may not have supported it correctly.

      Or hire a 500 pound gorilla to jump on it.

      ****Added 11/15 Yes get your flash light and go look. Your foundation is concrete the floor is a wood frame. It’s great if you have access. You want to see if the joists are 16″ apart. You want to see that they are level to the sub floor.

      Ok floors are built like this. A wood frame that rests on a sill. Then a sub floor normally thick plywood sheets layed on top of that. sometimes another thinner layer of wood is put over that, then your surface. Things settle over time it may not be a fault of the original person constructing.

      If the wood frame (Joists) is not 100% level even one peice then the additional sheeting will eventually pull and the floor will feel wobbly. Dosen’t mean your going to fall though just feels scary and it is corrected by leveling those peices with wood shims and/or attaching it to the other peices ..this is called sistering.

      If the ends of the joists on the sill get rotted that’s a whole other animal.

      They take a laser line to see what is not level.. Then they Shim or Sister or in some cases a simple horizontal board cut between the joists that spans the 2 resolves it and strengthens the floor.

      But yes you have to get under there or have someone do it and since the current floor is coming up if there are repairs to be had it is far easier and more cost efficient to wait on the new flooring until this is sorted. If repairs are needed then going from the top down is easier (and cheaper) then from the crawl up.

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