Concrete Foundation Repairs

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   Can pre-cast concrete foundation walls be used to repair/replace a failing foundation?
   My house is 42 years old and the foundation walls are failing, the basement floors are cracking, the living room is sloping. I definitely need to find a solution fast. I would like to know if pre-cast concrete foundation walls can be used to repair or replace an old foundation that is failing. Is this possible?

   • ANSWER:
     As far as fixing the foundation goes they would jack up the house & build a new foundation & walls. I don’t think that they would be able to put in pre-cast walls. A lot of room is need to do that.

     But first you need to know why the building is sinking.

     Is this happening to any other homes close to yours?

     Some times the water table goes down & the land sinks.

2. QUESTION:
   How do I repair nail holes in a concrete foundation?
   I just finished ripping out a really cheesy fake rock wall in our basement.

   There are several places where the furring strips were nailed into the poured concrete foundation.

   I would like to paint the concrete wall, but I would just assume level out the craters that were left behind.

   What is the best way to go about repairing them?

   • ANSWER:
     You can mix some mortar or you can even use plaster of paris. If the holes are not to deep, you can use spackle. All of these will adhere to concrete.

3. QUESTION:
   How long does it take to cure concrete for an interior foundation section 13″ by 35f’?
   A main drain pipe busted and they had to jack hammer the concrete foundation and now the concrete has been repaired. I need to know how long I must wait before the wood flooring can be installed over the new concrete. Thanks!

   • ANSWER:
     approximately 28 days

4. QUESTION:
   How to fix leaky rod holes in foundation?
   I have leaky rod holes in the basement (poured concrete foundation). The builders have not plugged some of the holes and now they are leaking whenever we have lots of rain or water on that side of the house (I live in a townhouse; between the houses, I managed to drain the gutters away from the foundation, but sometimes, when it is windy, the wind pushes the rain towards the house and then it starts leaking). I looked at some solutions like injection, but it quite expensive. A friend of mine fixed the same problem with some silicone in the holes.

   Any other solutions out there?

   • ANSWER:
     The good news is that you know exactly where the problem is. These problem areas were created when the foundation was built. After the forms were set up, metal rods called form ties or snap ties were slipped through small holes in each side and connected to temporary braces on the outside of the forms. After the concrete sets up, the forms are stripped off the walls and the ends of the ties are snapped off just below the surface of the concrete. This leaves a small pock mark in the foundation wall at every tie location, which should be filled with hydraulic cement to protect the ties still in the concrete. If water gets to the ties they’ll rust, and if they rust long enough they’ll let water leak into the basement.
     The repair? This Old House contractorTom Silva says to use a cold chisel and chisel around each tie location to create a hole anout 1/2 in. deep and a couple inches in diameter. Then clean out as much of the deteriorated form tie as possible and fill the area with hydraulic cement. Work quickly–hydraulic cement sets up in a hurry!

     Here’s more on hydraulic cement, as well as other ways to keep water from getting into your basement:

     http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20057861,00.html?xid=yahoo-answers&partner=yes

5. QUESTION:
   What is the future of foundation that has been “repaired”?
   I am looking to buy a home that has had foundation repairs due to settling, common in north texas with the clay soil. I am wondering what further problems are possible with relation to the foundation. There is a lifetime warranty, but are there any problems that can arise that are not covered with the warranty?

   • ANSWER:
     It is good that you have a TRANSFERABLE warranty, right? If so, then that is good. Make sure Before you buy the house that if any foundation repair has been done that the foundation repair company is reputable, registered, and is affirmed as having the warranty that can transfer to ALL new owners that come along…not just you.

     That being said, it is possible that foundation issues to still continue for years to come. Slight changes folks say the house is “settling”, but extensive changes are foundation issues and you can’t just sit on it and do nothing. Foundation problems can be from the expansion and contraction of the clay soils or it can be caused by a plumbing break (even ever so slight), so that may need to be checked, as well. If problems still arise, and the weather has been “balanced”, do check the plumbing for leaks under the foundation.

     So, weird very wet and very dry weather (which we just got over a 4 yr drought) can cause foundation issues for slab homes and a break in plumbing can do the same. Sometimes one causes the other, too.

     You mentioned North Texas, well howdy! I’ve lived in Collin County since 1966, and have seen quite a bit when it comes to types of homes built, neighborhoods that have foundation issues up & down the street, and some areas that seem fine.
     We do have strips of soils that are sandy and even shallow of the clay [meaning that rocky limestone is very close to the surface, which helps with foundations, but makes it tough on plants which need deep roots] , which makes for less shifting (Allen). Homes that are on pier & beam actually still have foundation issues, but they are MINOR in cost of repair. The track builders like Fox & Jacobs (Centex today) found that laying concrete slabs for foundations were quick and cheap and that is how all of this started. Other than that, homes were prior to then variations of Pier & Beam. Then other forms of slab came along with tension wires that claimed that were effective in keeping the foundation sound, but they weren’t perfect either.

     KRLD radio – 1080am on your dial has a saturday program that is hosted by an area homebuilder called Tom Tynan, I believe at 2pm. He’s easy to understand and is laid back and seems very honest. You can probably call in and ask him some questions like the one you posted here.

     KRLD can also be found www.krld.com

     Another thing, too. Check with the city building inspector of the town you are interested in. Just for example, the town of Frisco had some mutiple huge issues with foundations a few years ago because it was growing very quickly and many unprofessional builders flew in, built homes with POOR foundations, and they split. Home after home was cracking up, and the city stepped in and put in some very strick building restrictions before that finally cleared up. So, check up on the history of building in the town you are considering. Did they have extreem growth spurts, or was it controlled? Can make a difference! Check around the neighborhoods and look for signs in the yard of foundation work done. If you see a few, its possible that it’s a bad area for homes. This clay was great for the cotton and corn farmers, but it reaks havoc on the slab foundation home. And don’t even think of mobile homes – the old ones were constructed with 2×2’s and are as safe as a matchbox to live in. Even if they are “hurricane tethered” to the ground, and they are constructed with a late model 2×4 beams, and even PLACED on a slab, they will – I repeat WILL blow away with any great gust of wind. Period! So avoid mobile or manufactured homes. Pre-fab may be better, but I wouldn’t put my money there either, even if they do throw in some acerage!

     Be smart. Do your research. Might consider building your own and monitoring the construction. We are in a tornado proned area, so do try to build a reinforced “safety” room in your home for such times that tornado warnings are present.

     Good luck and a TEXAS WELCOME to you!

6. QUESTION:
   Cracked Foundation repaired with epoxy cracked again?
   on the inside wall of the garage close to the middle of poured concrete foundation is craked on the inside of the house aproximatley 3 feet long. this foundation has been repaired with epoxy.although the house must still be serttling (4 years old)
   where the foundation has been repaired it is craking in the same spot about 2mm-3mm wide crack.
   what wouuld be the cause of this and what can be done to remedy the situation?if possible how costley would this be to fix.
   this is an inside wall from a 2 car garage.

   • ANSWER:
     twood has hit it, it is a very costly problem. The house would have to be jacked, then the wall removed and replaced, then it needs to set up THEN maybe if all is well your house can be dropped. App. time 4-5 months ( in best scenario). Cost depends on the size. If you have a warranty with your house I would be checking into that. Otherwise the rest is your decision to fix it or leave it. Worst case the wall could slip your house falls in. Best of luck to you.

7. QUESTION:
   How to fix rotting Wooden Garden Shed?
   I have one of those premade wooden Garden Sheds that people buy pre-constructed and move into their yard. Mine is the type that looks like a mini barn, with barn-style doors and gambrel roof. The side panels are made of partcleboard and they have begun to rot and disintegrate from the bottom (ground) up. The previous owners probably should’ve put the shed on something, but it sits right on the ground. If I can repair the shed, I will probably have a concrete foundation poured for it. I need to know if anyone’s ever tried to repair / rebuild one of these sheds and how hard it is and whether it’s worth it? New ones cost a few thousand dollars and I can’t afford to replace, but since the frame and roof are in such good shape, I’d really like to repair before it gets worse. Do you have any suggestions on how to do this? Books? Website sources?

   Thanks for your help!
   This shed is not made of a frame that has siding over it. It is actually panels of 4 by 8 foot plywood that are inside the frame and outside trim. I am concerned as to whether the shed will collapse if I attempt to remove the plywood panels, since they seem like they are adding strength and stability to the structure. How would I take it apart down to the frame and keep it from collapsing / sagging? Thanks!

   • ANSWER:
     It sounds like you just need to replace the siding used on the shed. Probably just attached with nails, remove old siding and replace with a new piece.

8. QUESTION:
   Approximately how many piers are beneath a 1541 square foot home?
   We are needing some foundation repair and the neighbors told us that they company they use charges 200$/pier that needs repaired. I am curious as to how many piers are beneath our home, so that I can determine the worse case scenario.

   • ANSWER:
     It depends on the type of soil your house sits on. A pier is a round concrete column that can vary in depth. If your house is built on sandy or otherwise poor soil you probably wouldnt have any more than 10 piers but all of them may not need repair. You may not have any piers if your house is on good soil. You should have someone come out and give you an estimate.

9. QUESTION:
   Have you ever had your houses concrete foundation repaired…….???
   I am getting several estimates and I know their are several factor to factor in like soil, environment and the house itself, But I am just curious if anyone else on here has had concrete foundation repair in TEXAS and ABOUT how much it cost. I know it is expensive but how expensive????? Will I have to mortgage my first born?? he he =))

   • ANSWER:
     First, take your time and don’t be rushed into anything by anybody. The house has stood all this time, and it’s not going to collapse any time soon. Some companies will take advantage of your fears and concerns just like a good lawyer will when you go to them sometimes. The problem with depending on the contractors themselves to tell you what you need is that they have “an axe to grind” meaning that they only care because they stand to make good money on the job. If you could make further inquiries to find other homeowners in your immediate area that had the same problem and also seek the advice of your local county government building code authority, it may help.

10. QUESTION:
    What is better a static test or camera?
    A foundation repair company thinks we might have a leak because outside the house he saw the soil moist in one little area and most of the house is elevated except the front were it needs the peers because it dropped. Anyways he suggested a static test but won’t placing a camera to look at all the plumbing be better? The home is on concrete slab.

    • ANSWER:
      Cameras may or may not see the problem. A pressure test will always show if there is a leak, but it wont show where. Cameras are great for finding roots, blockages, and sags. A pressure test is great for verifying if the pipe is leaking. It is not easy to do a pressure test once the pipe is buried, as it has to be plugged before it enters the main sewer.

11. QUESTION:
    We have two cracks in our poured concrete foundation – is it better to repair from the inside or outside?
    Repairing from the outside is twice the price, but repairing from the inside would require that we remove and patch some drywall. I’ve heard that the inside method isn’t as effective because water can still get into the crack from the exterior. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
    By the way, the cracks are leaking and the plan is to have a professional repair them. We just have people pitching both methods to us.

    • ANSWER:
      out side clean the crack first apply hydralic cement then tar then test before backfilling should be permant

12. QUESTION:
    On average how much does foundation repair cost?
    We have one corner of our house that has already been repaired by the previous owner, but now the grout outside is getting cracks in it again. That’s the only area of the house that has problems. We are going to get professional estimates, but I’d like to hear input from others.
    My husband has looked at the foundation from where he can and the slab is NOT cracked, so perhaps it is just cosmetic.

    We live on that black land soil which cracks during the summer.

    • ANSWER:
      It is not uncommon in Texas for houses to have concrete slab foundations with cracks at the corners. This is not generally associated with an actual cracked slab but is due to stress at the corners. This can be cosmetically repaired if you like for 0 or so per corner but may not last long. You can even make the repairs yourself.

      If the foundations is truly cracked and you have walls that are also cracked and/or doors which will not close properly, then might you have more serious problems and need professional help. The average foundation repairs are in the range of ,000 to ,000 depending upon the type of repairs required, how deep they have to dig around your house, the number of pilings they have to place into the ground, etc.

13. QUESTION:
    Can a concrete slab/foundation with crack be repaired without repouring a complete new foundation?
    The concrete slab has a crack accross and I want to repair the crack area and lay a thin layer over whole to lev el and clean up complete floor. Is this possible ? any suggestions on how to do this ?

    • ANSWER:
      If the crack is not active (getting larger) you can fill it with various materials, including masonry caulk. repair would be similar to this:

      http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,20177880,00.html?xid=yahoo-answers&partner=yes

      As for laying a thin layer of material over the floor to level it, consider something like self-leveling underlayment. This is a cement or gypsum-based product that is mixed into a slurry and then poured over a floor and then spread with a squeegy. The material is liquid enough to level itself out and form a smooth surface, then dries very hard. Various companies make such products; one is noted below. Always check with the manufacturer to see what surface prep they recommend for filling cracks.

14. QUESTION:
    How much should I pay a builder to knock down my half of an adjoining garage?
    I live in a modern semi detached house and my garage adjoins the neighbours (neither touching the houses). How much is a guideline cost for a builder to a) knock it down, b) Build a new outer wall for the neighbour (i.e. what was the center), and c) take up the concrete foundations?

    • ANSWER:
      First you need to get a permit from your local building & zoning department to do this type of work.
      Once you have the approval & permit in hand, then you can start getting estimates from licensed contractors. You will also need written permission of the other owner to access their side of the property to do the needed repairs to bring their side up to current code.
      I don’t know the cost of removal & structural repairs. I do know that having a concrete slab removed is almost as costly as having one installed! I just received estimates ranging from -9,000 to have a 2 &1/2 car garage sized cement patio removed from my place. Most garages have steel re-bar in the foundations & that means more work to remove them. So, yours will most likely cost over grand to remove if you live in California!

15. QUESTION:
    How long before you can install carpet on a freshly poured concrete foundation?
    Pipe was repaired under the foundation in our home. The concrete was poured at appox. 4 p.m. yesterday. When can the pad and carpet be re-installed?

    • ANSWER:
      If is just a patch about 48 hrs, the existing concrete will draw the moisture out of that patch pretty quick, if it is wider than 18″ you might want wait a little longer and if you are worried about put a piece of visqueen (plastic) over the patch and put the carpet back down

16. QUESTION:
    Who do you call to fix a leaky pipe in the wall?
    I have a pipe in an exterior wall of the house that is leaking every time I run the clothes washer. I believe it must be the drain. I know it is leaking because water runs out under the siding and down the foundation. The house has T-111 siding and a concrete slab foundation. I don’t know if it would be better to cut through the drywall on the inside of the wall or the siding on the outside of the wall to access the pipe, and I’m not sure if I want a plumber, contractor, or someone else entirely to do it.

    • ANSWER:
      Call a plumber. There should be a clean-out access already installed that looks like a pipe plug behind the washer. If not, he will probably cut through the drywall and install one since that is easier to repair than an external access. Sounds like the drain to me also, but it may just be a sock or something plugging the standpipe that can be fished out with a tape.

17. QUESTION:
    how do you elevate a house?
    i want to do a home addition but since my house is in a flood zone(AE), i have to raise my home elvation which right now is 7.11ft to 9ft. how do i elevate my house, it has a concrete foundation with footers?, is that even possible?

    would it be possible to do the addition but only have the addition raised to 9ft or do i have to do the whole house?

    thanks

    • ANSWER:
      Professional house movers could very simply (but not very cheaply) raise the frame structure off the existing foundation and add several courses of block to it, simultaneously you could build the foundation for the new addition. Once the foundation work has been completed, set the house back down. Not unlike lifting a house to repair a failed foundation.

18. QUESTION:
    Can you cover damaged concrete under layers of dirt and brick?
    If i have a severely cracked concrete patio (beyond repair) can I just cover it with a thick layer of dirt or sand and add a brick patio on top? (Obviously I would add brick around the perimeter to hold everything in place.) If so, what would be the best way to go about doing it?

    • ANSWER:
      To install a brick patio correctly,
      you should start with a solid foundation.
      If your concrete is cracking and shifting,
      the bricks will shift also.
      You could compact sand over the concrete,
      then add your bricks,
      then vibrate sand in between the bricks,
      but like I said,
      any kind of masonry is only as good as it’s foundation.
      It might last a while,
      it might not.
      The correct way to go about it is to remove the old and start fresh.
      All the best..

19. QUESTION:
    Does mudjacking concrete work, or is it more cost effective to re-pave?
    I have some slopped concrete that I would one day like to get fixed. I’m wondering if mudjacking works, or if I’d be better off just re-paving the concrete instead. One contractor told me that mud jacking is very expensive and just a short-term fix.

    • ANSWER:
      Mudjacking would be used for foundation repair. If that is what you need, go for it. If not, tear it and repave it, make sure your base is compacted firm and not too wet, use a low water cement ratio, and utilize rebar for extra reinforcement.

20. QUESTION:
    We need to know if our foundation around the house which is conrcret nneds repairs?
    concrete around our brick house (foundation) shows some cracks. Should it be repaired called parging or resufaced. What are the usual costs.

    • ANSWER:
      Since the foundation is the main support for the house you need to know what is causing the cracks; i.e. settling or deterioration of the concrete. You may need a professional home inspection to be sure what is necessary before you proceed, as maybe nothing needs to be done

21. QUESTION:
    What can I use to patch cracked concrete foundations between each cinder block?
    We have the motar in the foundation of our house that is slowly falling out. What can we used to fill the small gaps? They are for cinder blocks that are in good condition, however the cement in between is decaying. We’ve never had to replace or repair something like this. Any recommendation?

    • ANSWER:
      if you are going to go through the trouble to fix it , do it right…grind out the bad joints …dampen joints and tuck with fresh mortar…mix it in a bucket 2 1/2 sand to one mortar by volume…keep it as stiff as you can and still work with it…tuck it in with a tucking tool from the hardware store…when almost set joint it with a striking iron…

22. QUESTION:
    Exposed rebar on foundation. What kind of concrete do I fill in hole?
    Hi all. I was walking around my house the other day and noticed some discoloration on my foundation (almost a mildew color). So I started picking at it with a screwdriver and to my surprise, it start falling apart…almost in a wet powdery form. It resulted in a hole about 3″ in diameter with rebar dead center sticking out to the edge of the foundation.

    My question is. I know the exposed cavity needs to be filled in with some concrete, but with what kind? The concrete on the actual foundation is very solid, so I am not sure if these holes (rebar) need to be accessible in case there needs to be foundation repairs in the future.

    Here is a link to a photo I took of it:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/robo-rob/545185613/
    p.s. Is it ok to re-fill over rusted rebar too?

    • ANSWER:
      Looking at the photo, I would not get too excited about this one. There is no failure of the concrete. For some reason, a hole was either formed in the wall when it was poured or core drilled in after the fact. I would venture to guess it was drilled and stopped when they hit the rebar. The hole was filled, and whatever they used to fill it has failed. Also, looks like it is above grade, so you should not have any water issues.

      The challenge of filling something like this is actually getting the fill material to stay in the hole. Best thing to use is a product called concrete grout. You may have to go to a specialty concrete products store to get it, a ready mix plant may stock it as well. I would not expect a home center to stock it, but they might be willing to get it. Sakrete and Quikcrete both manufacture or distribute something that would work. This is not the same kind of grout you would use for tile.

      The directions will give a range of the amount of water to add depending upon what you are doing. Mix as thick as you can — use the very least amount of water. Clean the hole first, then trowel the grout in, packing it as best you can. You will probably need to trowel a few times before it is set as it will still tend to ooze out even mixed thick.

      Technically, the rusty rebar should be cleaned and coated with epoxy before you grout. I have never seen this done for a residential repair, and I certainly would not go to the trouble in this case. The rebar is deep in the foundation, so it should not cause a problem.

23. QUESTION:
    I have a vent pipe leaking on to carpet & flooring behind wall at concrete foundation. Rain?
    This only happens when it rains heavily. I have had all of the vent pipe collars replaced and tarred. Still having the same problem. It is possible that rain water is getting inside the pipe and there is a leak or bad fitting in the wall that is causing leakage on to the foundation? I am having no sewage oder or other leaking problems & this only happens when it rains. How can I find out if that is the problem and if so, how can that be repaired?

    • ANSWER:
      If you have pipe under the floor, which i am guessing that you do in order for this to be a vent pipe, it could be cause by water sepping through a hole in your concrete floor. As the water table raises durning heavly rains, it is coming up along your vent or drain pipe. My suggestion is to apply concrete around your drain line, really pack it in there. this should stop the leak.’Good luck

24. QUESTION:
    I have a vent pipe leaking on to carpet & flooring behind wall at concrete foundation. Rain?
    This only happens when it rains heavily. I have had all of the vent pipe collars replaced and tarred. Still having the same problem. Is it possible that rain water is getting inside the pipe and there is a leak or bad fitting in the wall that is causing leakage on to the foundation? I am having no sewage oder or other leaking problems & this only happens when it rains. How can I find out if that is the problem and if so, how can that be repaired?

    • ANSWER:
      Make sure your roof isnt leaking at the base of the pipe. Also if you have a gutter near the foundation leak make sure it isnt being overwhelmed. Try to have water diverted away from the area where your problem is. Most leaks are best repaired by an expert in the trade.

25. QUESTION:
    What Are The Best Concrete Crack Repair Kits To Repair Basement Wall Cracks?
    We have an 8 ft crack in our basement foundation wall. The crack is approximately 1/16 of an inch and water is coming in through the crack.

    What is the best concrete crack repair kit that will stop water that is currently coming in and to completely seal out water in the future.

    • ANSWER:
      I would definitely recommend FoundationArmor.com . They have the best concrete crack repair kits that activate with water to stop leaks and to seal out water. We used their kit and it worked great! Very easy and if you need help their customer service is excellent.

26. QUESTION:
    Can/how you repair expansion gaps in the seam of a manufactured home?
    We are thinking about buying a manufactured home set on a foundation. When looking at the house for the first time the owner showed us these gaps (max 1/4in) in the interior walls and ceilings of the home. He says they completely seal up in the summer time and are unnoticeable. Do I need to be worried about this when buying the home, and is there some sort of permanant fix?

    • ANSWER:
      Not that I like manufacture homes myself but the owner is correct expansion is required for these homes and should not be wider than 1/4″ for natrual expansion and contraction Concrete, wood, cmu block all these houses or buildings have expansion controll. I do inspection for commercial buildings and if there not in its a problem. This allows for the material to breath. If you look in your lowes or home depot or any expose block building you will see a cap between wall expansion for this very reason. Concrete floor will be section out or saw cut for natrual expansion and contraction to prevent any structural damge. And the reason you dont see this in other homes is they are built onsite and are concealed at that point buy siding etc.

27. QUESTION:
    What does efflorescence on the inside of your poured concrete foundation mean?
    I know it is mineral and salt deposits from water, but does it mean you have a serious water problem or just something you should expect in an older foundation. There are no significant cracks or water leaks and since I have re done the grading and landscaping there are no “wet looking” spots on the walls. Did this fix my problem or do I need to do more? Drylok perhaps?

    • ANSWER:
      There could be a number of reasons for this, it’s hard to say if the regrading completly fixed the problem. Were there wet spots on the wall before the grading??

      Sounds like the waterproofing barrier has been comprimised on the outside of the foundation whether it was applied using the black tar/rubber compound or the rubber membrane. Having the efflorescence present is a sure sign that a water problem exists/existed but it’s hard to say if it’s ‘seriouse’. It can be very common in older foundations where the slope of the grade coming off the home is poor and it actually slopes towards the home but it sounds like you addresed this.

      IMHO using Drylock is kinda like a band aid repair. If you havent fixed the breech in the waterproof barrior then the water will find it’s way around the drylok and become present in another location. Possibly an unknown area that could turn into a problem later down the road.

      Do you have gutters? if so make sure the water that comes down the down spout is carried far away from the foundation. Water from downspouts will travel towards dry soil, unfortunatly that usually ends up being towards foundations with an improper grade. Make sure it’s carried far away from the home.

      This is kinda of a wait and see situation. Wait to see if your grading did the trick, if you notice that it didnt; the next appropriate step is to remove all the earth from the foundation wall and re apply the waterproof membrane but be warned; that this isnt cheap and usually will take a contractor with machinery to perform the work.

28. QUESTION:
    I have a question about concrete/foundation…I have a little porch in the front of my house about 3 steps?
    high & about 5’x6′. It is solid concrete & the front was starting to crumble so we bought some concrete in a buchket type stuff to patch the front only to discover that there was a huge crack running through it and water , I guess, has been seeping in and destroying it. My husband wants to rip it all down & put up a wood porch. I want to re-do the concrete. Does anyone have any suggestions of effective yet inexpensive ways to fix my porch? Also there is a roof over it so I imagine it’s important to have something to hold it up.
    We do have a basement and we do have slight water problems, but the water that occasionaly seeps in down their is coming from the back of the house, not the front.
    it’s not the steps that are crumbling, ….maybe I will take a phot & repost my question.

    • ANSWER:
      If this porch is required to hold the weight of the roof over it, filling in the crack is only a temporary solution. It is cracking for a reason! Either the weight isn’t distributed evenly or the ground has shifted. Too, the area under the porch where the crack is has been affected by the water as well so you would need to be concerned about just how bad it is under there.

      As a property specialist, I suggest you remove the damaged porch and replace it with either wood or the new “plastics” porches. Maintenance wise these new composite porches are a breeze. They cost more but will last five life times.

      I have repaired many porches in the temorary manner, with crack fill from Menards. Then, painted the porch. It is for cosmetics only! I always tell the buyer about the crack so they can watch for what needs corrected.

      PS…I do so hope you don’t have a basement!!! If so…remove the porch NOW! The water damage may not show in the basement yet..YET… but it will and boy will you have some costs over that one~

      If it is a crawl space, just know that the joists under the house in that area are subject to termites, carpenter ants, rot and mold. As you can see…a small crack is just the start of the problem!!!!!

29. QUESTION:
    How much can repairing a concrete crack in a pool (1/4 inch thick, up the whole side) typically cost?
    There is a sizable crack in a pool at a home I am considering purchasing. It runs almost the entire depth of the pool up unto the concrete ledge. I am sure it can not just be patched. I have heard the structure must be stabilized. I am trying to determine what the typical cost of this report would be?

    • ANSWER:
      I worked on a pool crew for the past couple of summers. Most of teh repairs I saw were not that bad and ended up costing at least 5,000. If there is that much of a crack then there will need to be intensive digging just to get to the problem, then you have to fix the foundation. Then you need to fill the hole then you need to worry about actually fixxing the pool. Like mentioned this could easily cost 20,000 and take weeks to fix.

30. QUESTION:
    Is my foundation in trouble because of too much pressure or is it sagging?
    I have a home in Texas. It’s on a slab foundation, heavy clay deposits in the area. My drywall is starting to crack, signs of foundation problems. I also have a stuck door.

    The door is stuck at the bottom, with a sizeable gap at the top. The drywall that is cracking is separating from the top of the wall, and angling down.

    Based on that information, would you suppose my foundation troubles are a result of the ground settling too much? Or is there pressure building underneath my house?

    • ANSWER:
      Clay, as you know, owes a large part of its’ mass to water. During periods of drought, or simply dry times, these clay deposits are going to lose mass. The result, if this clay is under your slab, might be differential settling of your slab and/or footings. Here in Florida we have a similar problem when the aquifer lowers and the pourous, formerly hydrated material collapses on itself and creates a “sinkhole”.

      There is a technique that will elevate your slab to its former condition, in spite of unstable conditions below. Pressure-Grouting is a system of jetting a concrete slurry along the peremeter of the footing until iit fills up the voids created by loose or dehydrated soil, then surges back up to the top under pressure, elevating the slab in the process. This is often used in Florida for homes built over muck. Here is a Texas-based company that specializes in foundation repair, including pressure-grouting:

      http://www.dallasfoundationrepairs.com/index.html

      Good luck. Hope this information helps.

31. QUESTION:
    What is an average cost for repairing a front porch. It is composed of 2 sandstone slabs & supports a railing?
    The concrete connecting the railing has deteriorated as has the concrete sealing it to the house. The slab now shifts when stepped on. The cinder blocks underneath also appear to have sunk.

    • ANSWER:
      You shouldn’t pay more than – sqft (demolition your previous concrete is included) to pour the porch. Usually we charge 0 to install 100 blocks. To pour foundation it’s about for liner foot. So if your perimeter is 12′ by 22′ it should be about 0.

32. QUESTION:
    I want to relocate my washing machine and dryer. Any good plumbers or experienced remodelers have a solution?
    I want to move the washer/dryer from the living area to a large linen closet. Would be less noise, more convenient; but it’s not adjacent to plumbing. The guest bath is across the hall.

    My husband says the only way to run pipes is to bust out the concrete sub floor…or use a water pump to drain the water away if we used hoses or pipes in/above the ceiling.
    He said if we had pier and beam, he could just crawl under the house. But we have a concrete slab foundation.

    He can really do all electrical/plumbing, but he says he doesn’t want to pay to have the sub floor busted out nor does he want to do that kind of heavy labor himself. He’s afraid it would crack the foundation, as this house had some problems (that were repaired) before he bought it.

    So my questions are
    1) will busting out the floor crack the foundation?
    2) is there some new alternative?

    • ANSWER:
      The waterlines will be no problem since they can be run overhead. The drain can be ethier run across the floor and boxed in or the floor can be cut, cement removed and drain run under the floor. The other option is to put a drain sump in the floor and pump the drain water into the main.

33. QUESTION:
    Leaking crack in foundation. What is the best sealant to use when you can’t keep the area dry?
    There is a crack in the flooring of my house. It’s about 10 inches long and not more than a finger-nail thick. Unfortunately, water is coming up from below the foundation. We’ve already talked to a plumber, and he says it’s not a pipe. (We can’t stop the leak long enough to apply any sort of dry-only sealant to it. It’s also leaking pretty badly; roughly 10 minutes worth of mopping every hour.) It’s not so bad that we can see it gushing out, but it is nevertheless leaking a lot of water.

    What do I need to do to stop this leak? Do you guys recommend any water-resistant sealants that can be applied to wet cement?

    Any additional information I need to know would help a lot. Thanks for your time!

    Derek

    • ANSWER:
      It is for sure a leaking pipe below the foundation. No way would water ever come up that high from ground water. You would have to have a pond in your yard that is near or at front door level.

      That is a very difficult and costly repair to both locate and repair. What has happened is that plastic tubing below the cement has probably been kinked and formed a hole in it and it is pressureizing the soil below, thus the flow is out of the crack into the dwelling itself.

      There is a special media, called iron Chloride that can be injected into the water pipe to locate the precise location of the hole in the pipe. An instrument similar to those used to find buried treasure is then used for the location.

      After that a trench of concrete is then sawed about 3 feet long by a foot wide. The slab is removed and the crused pea gravel and dirt below also and the repair is made on the pipe itself.

      Do not assume just because its coming out of that crack in the floor that the pipe leak is directly below. It is most like NOT and probably 5 or even 20 feet away from that crack.

      Sorry to be a bearer of bad news but this water is from a pipe and not a wet ground conditon.

      As a temporary relief, you can get a bundle of cedar shingles at Lowes and coat the ends with Polyurethane adhesive and drive those shingles sharp edge into the crack tightly sealing the crack, do this putting them close together. And breaking them off once driven into the crack. Those shingles will swell out something like wood on a boat and seal that crack.

      Any sort of caulk gun or cement applied will immediately be forced out the crack due to the internal pressue of the water in the soil below, so dont waste time or money on that.

34. QUESTION:
    how do you dig a trench around a foundation of a home and fill with stone and cement?
    The ground of my back wall is caving in and I can not afford to have a contractor come to my home to repair this problem. the problem has not gotten bad yet and want to nip this in the bud BEFORE it is a BIG problem! Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      I am a poured wall mechanic and this is my advise. You can rent a small excavation devise from your local heavy rental store. If you can’t run the machine, they should know someone who could do it for you, cheap. Dig up about 16 inches on both sides of the wall. Tear the wall out with the same machine. Pour a concrete footer, using 2×8 level about 8 inches thick. Now you can rent forms to build a poured wall, and the people at the rental store will give you exactly what you need , based on the measurements of the wall, and show you how to erect them (this is not hard) . Simply build the wall the same height as the other one placing the forms on the footer you already poured. You want them at least 8 inches thick. This may sound complicated but it isn’t. When you rent the forms they will explain everything to you. If I have not been clear enough, email me and I will answer all your questions. This is the best way to go.

35. QUESTION:
    Can a sunken asphalt driveway be repaired by putting new asphalt on top?
    My driveway/boatramp has sunk (at the water’s edge) just before the concrete ramp into the water. The area is about 8 X 10 feet. Can I have new asphalt poured on top of the old asphalt without tearing out the old stuff and laying a nrew gravel bed? How long will this fix last?

    • ANSWER:
      There is a reason it has sunk. It means the foundation underneath has eroded away. You could pave over it but it might just keep sinking and then you’d be back to square one. The best thing to do is tear it up and repair the foundation.

36. QUESTION:
    What are the different types of home foundations?
    We are in the process of trying to sell a house that was built in the late 1960s. A potential buyer commented on the way the foundation was built. There is a space of about 1″ between the floor and walls. I was built this way and isn’t a crack. Is this normal? The buyer is complaining about potential water damage. Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Well, I’d have to ask for more details first, before commenting on this particular problem. For example… where is the gap? What is the floor made of? Are there any cracks in the foundation?

      During the 1960’s, here in the US, you began to see more and more houses built on concrete slabs. There are 2 ways to approach a slab home. The first is to pour a complete slab, usually 4 to 6 inches thick, and build everything on top of it. With this method, the floor actually runs under the walls, so there should be NO gap, unless you are measuring a gap between the wall covering, and the floor surface.

      The second method, is the way many ‘post and beam’ buildings, such as barns, are put up. Garages are often done this way too. Whether for a home, garage, barn, whatever, if the grade is sloped, or the pour is below grade, then the walls will be poured concrete to at least above the grade level. Once the footers (and if necessary, the walls) are poured, then the slab is poured INSIDE the perimeter of the foundation. A lot of basement floors are done this way too.
      Ive never seen a 1″ gap between a poured floor and perimeter foundation, or poured wall, though, if you mean the floor stops about 1″ away from the wall, horizontally.

      If the gap you are talking about is between the wall covering, and the floor surface (that is, you would measure the 1″ gap by holding a tape measure up and down), then there may have been some settling, or the wall covering was built with that much gap for a reason (maybe they intended to tile it later?)

      One important question… Have you HAD any water damage, or know about any in the past, if you have not owned the home since it was built?

      And, Its still your house, if you don’t want to deal with this individual, tell them to go find another house to buy.

      Your best option is probably to hire a foundation/concrete repair specialist to come in and look at the situation. They can tell you if there has been any settling, and how to correct it. They can also, if necessary, eliminate that gap for you. In the long run, if you really need to sell the home, this is probably your best option. (They can also tell you if your situation is common for your area)

      Your other choice is to give the buyer such a good price, they’ll buy it knowing they’ll have to correct any problems themselves. Be sure, if you choose that option, to get it spelled out very explicitly in a contract.

      I’d say call in that concrete foundation expert… if nothing is wrong, they can put that in writing for you. If there is a problem, they can tell you how to best go about fixing it.

      Good Luck

37. QUESTION:
    How do I repair / replace an 8 inch hole in a concrete foundation caused from a coring drill?
    The core piece is still available and I could replace that there is just the area around the core and the existing wall that was removed by the bit… I have heard of pressure injection. Is this the only way. the hole is about 12 inches deep.

    • ANSWER:
      fill the hole 1/3 to 1/2 way with a good liquid sealant,
      [like an epoxey ]
      lower the core into the hole, allow the sealant to ooze up the sides, apply some weight or pressure to the core, smooth out any excess before it hardens,

38. QUESTION:
    I have a large crack in the concrete foundation wall of my one storey house. How can I repair it meaningfully?
    I want to avoid making it look like a sleazy coverup! It’s visible from the ground about three feet up to the wood siding. Thanks in advance!

    • ANSWER:
      I guess I don’t seee where you said “block wall” Other than that if it is concrete there are a couple of fixes that can be used. They are called out below as quik crete, foam and or caulk.
      I am more inclined to tell you to use an epoxy material to “glue” the crack back together. The crack should be cleaned to remove dirt, dust and insects. Then after it dries put duct tape over both side of the crack to form a dam. Leave access holes about 1′ apart.
      Go to Home depot and buy Set 22 epoxy cartridge and gun and shoot the epoxy into the crack. Patch each hole with a wood plug as yyou work up the crack.
      After 24 hours you can pull the tape and apply a slurry of cement creme over the exposed epoxy to get it to blend.
      NOTE instead of Duct tape to seal the crack a superficial patch about 1/2 inch deep on each side of the crack will work better.
      If the crack is not still moving you can fill the crack with mortar or concrete depending on the width and depth. Mortar will fill a small crack and concrete mix for a wide crack . Quikcrete does make patching mortars that should match good. Same method of damn and fill only one side placing material full depth.

39. QUESTION:
    repairing split floor joists?
    I have two different types of splits on two different joists. I have a basement. One is split vertically due to a knot in the wood. The other is split horizontally (lenghtwise) about 2 ft worth, and is abutted against the concrete block foundation. I dont have access to any sort of jack to fix the knot split, is there another way? and how in the world do I fix the horizontal split?

    Do I need to bolt through and through the knot split? or can I just nail? thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Can you get another joist ( or piece of a joist) attatched to the present cracked joists ? They can be “sistered” to each other. You can use screws or bolts to sister them together

40. QUESTION:
    What is considered a foundation with a house?
    I’am interested in buying a 1930’s house. It has cement around the edges of the house,but also it is supported on beams from the ground up.It is on a slope so it is atlease 16 or more inches from the ground. So I don’t understand what is meant by “it needs a foundation” Do I just replace the beams and relevel the house?

    • ANSWER:
      sounds like its a pier and beam house. the foundation is both, the concrete footing around the perimeter of the house and the pier and beams. if it needs foundation repair you need to check and level the footing first. Then you fix the beam problems.

41. QUESTION:
    What is the best way to find a leak in your basement and repair it?
    When it rains really hard in the spring my basement floods… I know where on the house the water is coming in, generally, but what is the best method to fix a hole in the foundation of the house.

    • ANSWER:
      Hello, the best repair for a hole in the foundation, if you can get to it, is to mix up some concrete and re-pack the hole.Clean the hole of all loose debris and dirt, make sure that one side is closed off,cut a piece of plywood six inches wider and six inches taller than the size of the hole.This will close the other side of the hole.Position the plywood over the hole and mark a two inch by two inch notch in the top-center, then cut that out,this will allow us to fill our hole with concrete.Begin by mixing concrete to a fairly stiff consistency and packing it firmly into the hole.When concrete no longer stays in the hole brace or attach the cut piece of plywood to the wall with the notch just below the top of the hole.Continue packing concrete until the hole is full,finish the 2×2 spot of concrete with a trowel,wait a day for the concrete to set and remove the plywood. At that point you can mix a small amount of mortar an finish off the face of the patch smoothly.Hope this helps:-)

42. QUESTION:
    How to water seal exterior concrete?
    Our concrete stoop to our front porch gets walked on every day. It’s over a cement block storm shelter. The slab has cracked and the metal corrugated piece under it is rusted and peeling. Therefore, rain water drips down into the storm shelter.

    What’s the best way to seal this, please?

    • ANSWER:
      Repair the crack with concrete repair, such as “Top and Bond”. Allow the repair to cure according to manufacturers instructions.

      If the cracked slab gets heavy foot traffic, depending on the size of the crack, it could re-appear with the flexing of the concrete as it is constantly walked on.

      One way to preserve the repair for a longer period of time is to seal over the it with a waterproofer. UGL makes a product called ‘DryLok’ that can be used to waterproof basement walls and foundations. It can also be applied to other concrete, such as floors and stoops.

      If the crack reappears after a short period of time, then replacing the stoop would be the only other alternative.

43. QUESTION:
    Who do I report to about a house that desperately needs repair?
    There is a house that may be infested with termits and the foundation could be questionable. Is there away to report the house anonymously of possible safety hazard?
    homeoowners should be concern but other homes affect the value of your and termits can spread from one home to the other, since termits do have wings.

    • ANSWER:
      I usually find that someone who is looking to report someone else usually has the same issue…and I agree with some of the others…
      Get your own home treated for termites and you won’t have anything to worry about. What even makes you think that the house has termites? Termites are looking for wood and if the house is a stone or brick; it is rare that termites would have decided to eat the foundation. I have personal experience because there was a stack of wood on my property when I purchased it and I asked for a termite inspection as part of the purchase agreement and there were termites in that stack. After the area was treated, the house was checked and had no sign because it is a concrete basement and a stone exterior.

44. QUESTION:
    How much would it cost to repair a concrete slab foundation?
    I am seeing cracks in walls, doors don’t close right.

    • ANSWER:
      Depending on the size of the house, it realistically could be upwards of about ,000,00 or more. And that of course is only the foundation work, there may be other things besides what you have already mentioned that are only going to get worse over time.

      I know about the foundation work as my family and I have a property in Northern, Ca. with 8 houses on it and we are needing to repair two of our house foundations. They are talking around ,000.00 for the two houses that we are needing the work to be done on. Ours are not as bad of a situation as your is, but it is bad when ever a foundation is involved.

45. QUESTION:
    i need an apporx or exact price to lift a house and add concrete to the post foundation.?
    It doesn’t help me much to get answers like “expensive” or “better not bother.” what i’m looking for is anyone who has experience (has done themselves or knows someone who has) with this. The house is 800sf and has a post foundation. to make it saleable it needs a concrete foundation. for this it would need to be lifted and the concrete foundation added on.

    • ANSWER:
      Your looking at a footer or stemwall rather than an entire foundation I would imagine. Depending on what part of the country your in you could count on about 0-0 per linear ft on up – for a 12″x30″ with rebar and tie downs and jacking up the house and shoring, as well as the form for the crete.
      However you need to allow a budget for settlement repairs once the house has been shifted. Common repairs for this will be drywall, paint, trim and flooring. After your home sitting for years, it is used to the way it has settled, so when you lift and level it…it is bound to creak and crack here and there. Be sure you set aside an extra k for financial safety incase you do have maximum repairs needed when the jacking is done…but with 800sqft you hopefully won’t need 1/2 of that.

46. QUESTION:
    Who would I go to for leveling the foundation of a house that’s starting to split almost in half?.?
    The foundation of my house is trying to come apart. What are the necessary steps in preventing this? Or better yet, improving the foundation?
    Hey I want to thank all of you who participated in this question I had.

    I’m in Ga. with all this clay also…would this have any effect on the task at hand?

    • ANSWER:
      Concrete foundations need to be durable to support the building that is built above. Concrete foundation repair can become very expensive after the entire building is constructed.

      Your best bet is to call in a professional. Sorry to hear about your unfortunate situation. Hope you can find a solution.

47. QUESTION:
    Where can I find information to repair my pier and beams on island?
    I live in texas on a coastal island Every rain and my yard floods I need to replace and repair posts beams in silt and sand. If I have to hire it done I still need to know how because most foundation companys around here are less than honest. While at it should I just raise the house up a level?

    • ANSWER:
      This web site may provide good info for you as it shows the technique used to repair (replace) wood with concrete, which is probably the way you should go. The company has a San Antonio office which might do work in your area. If not they should know a competitor that does.
      Unable to speculate whether you should raise the house up a level without more info, but that would be quite a bit more expensive. Make sure whoever you hire is reputable. Ask for references and check them out before signing any contracts.
      http://www.centexhouseleveling.com/pierbeam_repair.html
      Good luck!

48. QUESTION:
    How do I permanently repair a corner joint where one wall has shifted downward during summer settling?
    I’ve repaired it a couple of times, but each summer when the ground shifts (clay soil) one wall will move downward a little bit (less than an inch) causing the tape to buckle and make diagonal ripples in the tape joint. Sometimes it pulls the tape off the wall, sometimes it doesn’t.

    • ANSWER:
      Sounds like you have a pretty funky structure to have that kind of shifting?! That said, the movement is in the whole wall it sounds like and the good fix would be to get under the outside part of the foundation, dig it out and jack it up (10 ton jack, rent or cheap t buy) to be where it is suppose to be. Pour a second stabalizing foundation block under the offending corner. 4-8 bags of concrete should do it. Back fill and tamp the ear around the new pour.
      If there are cracks in the foundation there are epoxy glues that you can fill those crack with and they hold like gang busters. I’ve used em’. Chekc with Simpson Ties, or any lumber yard should have that info for you.
      Once you have stabalized that corner, you should be able to tape and mud that corner interior and not have to deal with movement in it anymore.
      Lots of work but you asked! Good luck!

49. QUESTION:
    Is there a way to repair old pilings (telephone poles) under a beachouse?
    I am looking at a home and some of the pilings appear to be rotting. Is there a way to repair them. The pilings are treated wood ‘phone poles’ with knee braces etc.
    What is estimated cost per piling? House is in
    California…

    • ANSWER:
      If it were a ‘decorative’ piece of wood, like window trim, you could dig out the rot, and plop some wood putty in it… but that is not sufficient when dealing with a piece of the support structure.

      The only way to ‘repair’ this damage is to replace it.

      You might consider having them replaced with concrete piers. (no more rot issue later).

      You need to get estimates and references from several foundation experts and/or contractors. Depending on who you hire to do the job, they may be able to temporarily support the structure, and take out all the rotten piers at the same time, or they may have to drag the work out, and replace them one at a time… it really depends on what kind of equipment they’ve got to work with.

      Don’t fail to check the references… and for work of this serious a nature, get a CONTRACT with a warranty on materials and workmanship.

      I’d have estimates on repairing just the ones that are rotten, and on replacing them all. For the purpose of thinking about purchasing the home…. negotiate a reduction on the price of the home based on replacing all of them….that’s the ‘worst case’ scenario and you should be prepared for it.

      Good Luck

50. QUESTION:
    what would it cost to repair a foundation wall that has colapsed?
    I’m interested in a home which has one side of the foundation colapsed, how much would it cost to repair something like that?

    • ANSWER:
      You really are going to have to call in a structural engineer to look at that.

      As already noted… you didn’t specify where the home is (labor rates vary from region to region), what kind of foundation it is (stone, concrete, etc), how much has collapsed (dimensions).. etc, and etc….

      There’s no way you’re going to get a serious, accurate answer, without all those details being looked at by a structural engineer. I will say, its likely to be expensive. Excavating may be necessary, as well as temporarily supporting the home while the foundation is repaired. If you are only ‘mildly’ interested, I’d suggest you pass on this house. If you really like it, then get that inspection by a structural engineer. The engineer can tell you what needs to be done, and about how much it will cost. Then you can use that information to negotiate with the seller.

      Good Luck

• Posted in: Uncategorized ♦ concrete foundation repairs