Home Foundation Repair Cost

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   just to give me an idea, how much can a cracked or sinking foundation cost to repair?
   we are looking to buy a cute home, but the foundation is cracked and one wall is sinking…we may think it is worth it depending on repair costs. I just need and average cost nubmer just to have an idea of what we would be getting into.

   • ANSWER:
     Wow! That’s just about rebuilding the whole house – think about it! The foundation – just by definition it means the base , in this case, of the house. You are looking at at least 20K maybe on up to 50K depending on the size and the land it’s being erected on – there could be an underlying problem – sinkholes, etc. – Seems like a bad investment unless you tear it down and start over! Remember – you get what you pay for!

2. QUESTION:
   Does anyone know how much home foundation repair cost is in Edmond or Oklahoma city, OK?
   I thinking about buying a REO home and would like to know the cost.
   I am thinking about buying a REO home. The home is 6-7 years old and the realtor says it has foundation problems. He does not think its a good buy but I am having a structural engineer come out to inspect the home. FYI I have not met any realtor in Oklahoma who thinks buying a REO property is a wise decision.

   • ANSWER:
     You’re on the right track by hiring a structural engineer. Years ago, I had a foundation problem with a home and did the same thing. The engineer came out and located the fault in the slab, then provided me with a scale drawing depicting how many piers and where they should be located. He recommended a foundation repair company that would do it at $X per pier.

3. QUESTION:
   What is the future of foundation that has been “repaired”?
   I am looking to buy a home that has had foundation repairs due to settling, common in north texas with the clay soil. I am wondering what further problems are possible with relation to the foundation. There is a lifetime warranty, but are there any problems that can arise that are not covered with the warranty?

   • ANSWER:
     It is good that you have a TRANSFERABLE warranty, right? If so, then that is good. Make sure Before you buy the house that if any foundation repair has been done that the foundation repair company is reputable, registered, and is affirmed as having the warranty that can transfer to ALL new owners that come along…not just you.

     That being said, it is possible that foundation issues to still continue for years to come. Slight changes folks say the house is “settling”, but extensive changes are foundation issues and you can’t just sit on it and do nothing. Foundation problems can be from the expansion and contraction of the clay soils or it can be caused by a plumbing break (even ever so slight), so that may need to be checked, as well. If problems still arise, and the weather has been “balanced”, do check the plumbing for leaks under the foundation.

     So, weird very wet and very dry weather (which we just got over a 4 yr drought) can cause foundation issues for slab homes and a break in plumbing can do the same. Sometimes one causes the other, too.

     You mentioned North Texas, well howdy! I’ve lived in Collin County since 1966, and have seen quite a bit when it comes to types of homes built, neighborhoods that have foundation issues up & down the street, and some areas that seem fine.
     We do have strips of soils that are sandy and even shallow of the clay [meaning that rocky limestone is very close to the surface, which helps with foundations, but makes it tough on plants which need deep roots] , which makes for less shifting (Allen). Homes that are on pier & beam actually still have foundation issues, but they are MINOR in cost of repair. The track builders like Fox & Jacobs (Centex today) found that laying concrete slabs for foundations were quick and cheap and that is how all of this started. Other than that, homes were prior to then variations of Pier & Beam. Then other forms of slab came along with tension wires that claimed that were effective in keeping the foundation sound, but they weren’t perfect either.

     KRLD radio – 1080am on your dial has a saturday program that is hosted by an area homebuilder called Tom Tynan, I believe at 2pm. He’s easy to understand and is laid back and seems very honest. You can probably call in and ask him some questions like the one you posted here.

     KRLD can also be found www.krld.com

     Another thing, too. Check with the city building inspector of the town you are interested in. Just for example, the town of Frisco had some mutiple huge issues with foundations a few years ago because it was growing very quickly and many unprofessional builders flew in, built homes with POOR foundations, and they split. Home after home was cracking up, and the city stepped in and put in some very strick building restrictions before that finally cleared up. So, check up on the history of building in the town you are considering. Did they have extreem growth spurts, or was it controlled? Can make a difference! Check around the neighborhoods and look for signs in the yard of foundation work done. If you see a few, its possible that it’s a bad area for homes. This clay was great for the cotton and corn farmers, but it reaks havoc on the slab foundation home. And don’t even think of mobile homes – the old ones were constructed with 2×2’s and are as safe as a matchbox to live in. Even if they are “hurricane tethered” to the ground, and they are constructed with a late model 2×4 beams, and even PLACED on a slab, they will – I repeat WILL blow away with any great gust of wind. Period! So avoid mobile or manufactured homes. Pre-fab may be better, but I wouldn’t put my money there either, even if they do throw in some acerage!

     Be smart. Do your research. Might consider building your own and monitoring the construction. We are in a tornado proned area, so do try to build a reinforced “safety” room in your home for such times that tornado warnings are present.

     Good luck and a TEXAS WELCOME to you!

4. QUESTION:
   Is there a 2008 tax break available for home improvement expenditures in Texas?
   I bought a home in Texas in 2007 and paid a sizable amount of money to get my foundation repaired in 2008. Does anyone know if I can claim this when I file my 2008 taxes? If so, what is the process?

   • ANSWER:
     The expense of the foundation repair is added to your cost basis.

5. QUESTION:
   How much will it cost to repair my home foundation? No visable cracks but popped up tiles.?
   It has been very wet here in Texas and colder than usual. The walls aren’t cracked but my neighbor said my foundation may have a crack in it!

   • ANSWER:
     You foundation may be buckleling. Very expensive project to fix anywhere from ,000 on up. Unless you can find a contractor that will work real cheap for you, if you are willing to give him other jobs by word of mouth or by your business, real estate etc…

6. QUESTION:
   what would it cost to repair a foundation wall that has colapsed?
   I’m interested in a home which has one side of the foundation colapsed, how much would it cost to repair something like that?

   • ANSWER:
     You really are going to have to call in a structural engineer to look at that.

     As already noted… you didn’t specify where the home is (labor rates vary from region to region), what kind of foundation it is (stone, concrete, etc), how much has collapsed (dimensions).. etc, and etc….

     There’s no way you’re going to get a serious, accurate answer, without all those details being looked at by a structural engineer. I will say, its likely to be expensive. Excavating may be necessary, as well as temporarily supporting the home while the foundation is repaired. If you are only ‘mildly’ interested, I’d suggest you pass on this house. If you really like it, then get that inspection by a structural engineer. The engineer can tell you what needs to be done, and about how much it will cost. Then you can use that information to negotiate with the seller.

     Good Luck

7. QUESTION:
   how much does it cost to fix the foundation on a house?
   i am looking in to buying a home for 42,000. it is a nice size and has a good amount of yard. however, when i saw it on the inside, i noticed there was some cracks on the cement floor and on some of the walls.i’ve never owned a home and have no clue about the repair costs. im quite sure the foundation is the problem. sounds like hard work and expensive……

   • ANSWER:
     You should get a foundation repair company out there before you make any kind of offer on the house. If the foundation is a slab, they have to jack the house up all along the sides and pour concrete beams or some other type of support. The cost is related to how many supports they have to install. But a badly cracked house can have broken pipes inside the walls and other structural damage from the foundation problems.

     In this housing market, with many homes available for good prices, if I were you I’d keep looking for one in good condition. Foundation problems are usually the problem you can see and any owner who has allowed their home to sag has allowed many other things to deteriorate which you can’t see.

     I say, walk away and keep looking.

8. QUESTION:
   How much will foundation repair on my home cost??
   I have just moved into a hundred year old home that is sagging on one side. I want to know what kind of options I have before I purchase this house. Is there a cost effective way of fixing this problem????

   • ANSWER:
     sounds like you ought to pass it by.
     contractors costs are with out a doubt, going to get expensive.

     Think about, how much dammage has the sag caused to the surrounding structure, and how long has that sag been ignored?

9. QUESTION:
   Anybody knows a good and honest foundation repair company in arlington tx?
   my house needs a foundation repair but I don’t know where to start, if someone has had a foundation repair, would you tell me a good foundation repair company and about how much it costs?

   • ANSWER:
     I’m not aware of any particulars in your area, but you might contact a home inspector and ask him who he recommends. Also, some area builders may have someone they use.

     The following page may also give you some guidance. It is on home foundations:
     http://www.building-your-green-home.com/home-foundation.html

     Once you find a company (or 2 or 3), ask them if they will give you a free estimate.

     Hope this helps.

10. QUESTION:
    Should I purchase a home with foundation problem history?
    I am looking to purchase a home that has had foundation pillars added to level a slab out. The reason for this was unsuitable fill material. When I looked at the house I noticed a low spot where the refrigerator and dishwasher are located, also in the living room there is a spot where the base molding is separated from the floor. Should this be a major concern if the house has already been lifted to “level” on drill shafts? Should I walk away?

    • ANSWER:
      Just remember the leaning Tower of Pisa has been repaired many times due to unstable or unsuitable sub material and it continues to lean a little more each year.

      An inspection will cost several hundred dollars, they aren’t free.

      If the home had never ever been remodeled then maybe I’d feel a little confident, but let’s years ago somebody came in and did some work and cut supports within the floor or wall……you see it all the time. The floor problems might not be totally the result of the foundation problem.

      I’d not feel real confident in the house.

11. QUESTION:
    Home owners, what small details should I look for when selecting a home to buy?
    The home inspector should find any major structural faults. But I was wondering what little things I might over look. For example, I rented an old house, that had very few electrical outlets, most of them with out the third prong. That is on my list to avoid with a purchase.
    Are there any little details that you have come across that I might not think to check for?

    • ANSWER:
      Geeez, I could write a book on this question!!

      Along with what the other have suggested…

      Check the slope of the house for drainage. If/when it rains, water should flow away from the house and have somewhere to go. Make sure the house has gutters and the downspouts lead away from the house, and the water doesn’t just dump out at the foundation.

      Look to see how the previous owners have maintained the house. If there are a lot of little things that need repair, chances are good that a lot of big things need repair. Also try to determine if improvements and repairs were done with quality parts and supplies, or if a lot of corners were cut.

      In many cities it’s common for the seller to include a home warranty with the house. Don’t let that cause a false sense of security. Frequently they don’t cover a lot of things and that it can be hard to file a claim against the policy.

      Keep in mind the age of the house and the age of the major systems in it. When was the water heater last replaced? Dishwasher?Furnace? Air conditioning system? Water heaters and dishwashers last about 7 years and will cost 0+ each to purchase and install. Furnaces and air conditioning systems last about 15 years, depending on use. I *think* those are easily 00+ each to purchase and install. Having an idea of how old these things are will give you a better idea of when you might need to replace them and you can plan accordingly.

      Look at the vegetation in your yard and in the adjacent neighbors’ yards. Is the property going to be easy maintain? Are any plants or trees of your neighbors encroaching on your property?

      Speaking of neighbors, how are the neighbors’ yards maintained?

      Lastly, if a home has carpet in it, I’d plan to replace it before you move in. You never know what’s been on it, how often/if it’s been cleaned, etc. One thing you can do is buy a black fluorescent light, turn the lights out, and walk around the carpeted area with the light. Any stains on the carpet will show up in the black light. Be prepared, though. It might creep you out! This happened to me!!

      Hope this helps!

12. QUESTION:
    Is the cost of foundation repair worth it on an older home?

    If you’re not planning (necessarily) to keep it for the duration, is the repair investment going to have a great return if it’s sold?

    • ANSWER:
      Tony H;
      It will be money well spent, besides, what other option is there, other than tearing down the building.
      A leaking foundation will degrade the house value, and cause mold and other health issues.

13. QUESTION:
    Limestone foundation: is it worth the cost of finishing the basement?
    I have a 90+ year old house with crumbly, limestone foundation. The unfinished basement only leaks in extreme weather (once/year, just enough to stain the floor, but not puddle). I’d like to reclaim some square footage by turning the space into an office/living area. What moisture factors should I be aware of? How can I minimize the threat of water damage? Would finishing the attic be a better idea?

    Thanks in advance.

    • ANSWER:
      An important factor here is your outside drainage. Another no so important is basement ceiling height (your home’s age usually indicates a lower ceiling).

      Hopefully your drainage is such that it can be easily cleaned or updated. If part of the basement is above ground, that is you live on a hill, then you are home free. That is the best way to fix your moisture problem and because this would be a necessary fix to your home anyway, this could be considered a non cost to your project.

      Ceiling height is important for comfort, air quality and resale value. If your ceiling is lower than eight feet, consider “digging down”. Look at costs and feasibility. This would also be a repair needed regardless of the finishing.

      My preference would be to finish the basement and would do so unless either of these improvements show to be cost prohibitive.

14. QUESTION:
    what could go wrong with a mobile home?
    so I’m thinking about purchasing a mobile home (no it’s not a trailer but a modular home)…and its about 30 years old. i was wondering what types of things could go wrong with it? is it same as a house or are there other things to consider? It looks really well taken care of and the roof was just reshingled 3 years ago
    any advice for me?

    • ANSWER:
      A mobile home is very different than a “modular” in the eyes of the lenders. You will not be able to get financing for a mobile home UNLESS it is on a permanent foundation. Neither of them appreciate in value like a stick built home. I believe it is a bad investment, unless it is all you can afford. If the home is 30 years old it is probably not as well insulated as today’s requirements, therefore it is probably not energy efficient and will cost more to heat and cool. The other negative is that after 20 – 30 years even stick built house need updates, and I wouldn’t imagine pulling the trailer apart to repair would be easy to find parts for as it is a “manufactured” home and everything, other than maybe the appliances, are usually non-standard sizes. The doors and windows are definitely non- standard in size. You can’t upgrade by installing storm windows or even replacements, so again bad investment.

      If you can afford to buy this outright, only the land will be the “good investment” if it even comes with land. I would suggest you pick a lender and ask ahead of time before they pull your credit about purchasing a mobile or a modular compared to a stick built home. There are mortgage brokers that can advice you on this. If you can only afford a Small mortgage maybe you could look around for a cheaper home and get a “cost to cure” loan for a stick built house that is not in perfect condition. A “cost to cure” loan allows you to buy the not-so-perfect house for an affordable price and then monies are put aside to pay the licensed contractors to do the repairs. As an example let’s say you bought a house that need the central a/c heat system replaced, about 5000.00, you would get the loan for the full amount of the sales price plus the 5000.00 and the lender pays out the 5000.00 to the contractor as needed until complete.

15. QUESTION:
    How do I repair a crack in a mortar joint of a concrete block foundation?
    I recently noticed a “stair step” crack in my foundation’s mortar joint. Foundation company came to my house and said the foundation was okay. My question is, how do I fix the mortar joint? Is there some kind of product you’d recommend to fill the crack to keep water out?

    • ANSWER:
      water stopping cement or hydraulic cement you can buy a small tub at home depot or any hardware store mix with water to consistancy of mayonaise and fill in cracks quickly the stuff sets up very quickly cost abot 6–8 dollars takes 3-5 minutes if you notice the concrete is not even take a wet (soaking) rag and wipe across concrete until desired result is acheived. you must do that immediatly or it will not work!!!!! good luck

16. QUESTION:
    Does anyone know the average cost of repairing the foundation of a 1911 craftsman house (1,549 sqft)?
    The house is located in Los Angeles, CA. and I think the house is being held up by a pier and beam foundation. The floor areas are sinking and some doors and windows are starting to stick. Do we go with a contractor or structural engineer? Has anyone used Servicemagic.com?

    • ANSWER:
      Usually they’ll just put your home up on jacks…it shouldn’t be that much. We got under my house and did it ourselves. The kitchen floor wasn’t even when we moved it and it bothered me!

17. QUESTION:
    How realistic is it to raise a house and redo/repair the foundation? A cost in extremely ball park figures?
    My has a very shallow basement, about 7ft from floor to ceiling, not counting plumping and duct work. There is also a large wooden support beam running half the length of the basement, held up by temporary jacks, that drops that down to around 6ft. Also there are many areas where the previous owner tried to fix the basement ceiling with pieces of sheet rock. I have a mild moisture problem. I will be installing rain gutters. The floor is not well leveled. One wall of the foundation also has a slight bulge to it, and it seems that there may have been cracks or breaks in the walls that they tried to cover up. I may also have a problem with settling, I dont know. The home is built on an extremly narrow lot, 31ft face, with only a couple feet to the property line, and less than 10 feet between my house and the homes to the next. How feasable would it be to redo the entire foundation, raising the house (or lowering the basement floor)?

    • ANSWER:
      I had my house done about 5 years ago they had to put piers in the front of it. And my house was brand new with wood floors throughout the house. It worked wonderful had to make some drywall repairs but it was nice to have it right. The cost was 6000.00 or a little more

18. QUESTION:
    We need to know if our foundation around the house which is conrcret nneds repairs?
    concrete around our brick house (foundation) shows some cracks. Should it be repaired called parging or resufaced. What are the usual costs.

    • ANSWER:
      Since the foundation is the main support for the house you need to know what is causing the cracks; i.e. settling or deterioration of the concrete. You may need a professional home inspection to be sure what is necessary before you proceed, as maybe nothing needs to be done

19. QUESTION:
    Does foundation warranty cover issues created by bad foundation?
    What I mean is, if i have a warranty on my foundation, and there is indeed a problem with it, will it cover the costs to fix issues caused by the bad foundation i.e. cracks in walls etc? Or only the foundation repair?

    • ANSWER:
      The answer depends on the age of your foundation and the terms of your “warranty”. If it is new, generally a licensed contractor is on the hook for repairs for up to 18 months (in MI). If dealing with the contractor first gets you no results, then complaints can be filed with the licensing office (which can be found online). They will generally force the contractor to a resolution if case warrants it. However, buildings and walls sometimes settle and heave with the ground and can create “minor” issues, such as cracking drywall (looks more like a jagged line). This can sometimes be anticipated in northern climates. That does not excuse poor foundation work. You’ll probably have to get a second opinion from another contractor or local building inspector on the cracks in your foundation and get them to state that is why the walls are in disrepair and not seasonal changes. If your foundation is old, then it’s unlikely any insurance policy is going to cover cracks in your foundation. If it was a warranty purchased when purchasing the home through the previous owner or agency, then an attorney is all the legal advice I can suggest.

20. QUESTION:
    How much would it cost to repair the water damage TOTAL to a home like this?
    This home had extensive water damage and I am still interested in buying it, but I am curious how much it would take to repair EVERYTHING (pipes, water damage to walls, etc). I know this is broad but I am just looking for broad price. I dont want to buy a house if the price to fix it will be like half of what I pay for it. Thousands? Tens of thousands?

    • ANSWER:
      The only way to tell will be to do some structural analysis looking for such things as rotten wood, shifted foundations, and other structural issues. Pipes and electrical work and plaster may be just the tip of the iceberg. I’ve seen very nice houses that were totalled after such “little things” as a water heater leak in an attic. It was cheaper to tear down and rebuild than fix.

21. QUESTION:
    New construction home completed this week, what should I look for?
    My wife and I have to sign off on our new home (built by Pulte) this week. Is there anything specific we should look for before we sign off? I have already noticed when I went in the house myself that some of the kitchen cabinet drawers arent pulling out smooth, is this something to have them fix or am I just being picky?

    • ANSWER:
      You will want to open all windows and doors in order to make sure they all open and close smoothly. Also walk around the entire outside checking the foundation and walls for any cracks or areas that are not level. Check all of the corners inside the house, and everywhere the walls meet the floor and ceiling to make sure they are level and straight. You should use a level when you do this, in my opinion.

      Check all of your moldings, around the doorways and baseboards to make sure they are level. Check around doors and windows to make sure they seal completely with no gaps anywhere.

      You should also check every outlet….I could go on and on, but I would probably forget something. The BEST thing to do is hire an INDEPENDENT Inspector, who has nothing to do with Pulte Homes, and have them evaluate everything.

      Frequently, home building companies the size of Pulte and many others build homes fairly quickly and skimp on various things due to their speed and costs. It is very wise and well worth the cost for you to get an inspection. I realize that many of these companies will bring out an inspector for you, but they have personal interests with these companies and will not work for YOU.

      In order to get the honest information that you need before you sign off on your home, you should hire an independent, licensed home inspector and follow him/her around while doing the inspection. They should explain every detail to you so that you know what you are getting in to, and if there are any issues they can give you advice about them.

      Then, Pulte Homes should be required to repair any problems. If there is anything major going on, you are NOT required to settle for the home. You will be able to get out of the deal. And wouldn’t you rather find out about potential problems before you sign off, rather than after you’re stuck with the home?

      Get a home inspection. Its the wisest choice that you can make about your home before you sign off on it.

22. QUESTION:
    How much to charge to paint a foundation?
    A person wants me to paint the outside foundation of their house, and I don’t know how to bid the job…it’s the stuco part at the bottom. I don’t know how long it will take ( their are bush’s part way around. How do they price something like this???

    • ANSWER:
      One option when not familiar with work is time and materials basis: Tell the person that you will do it on a time and materials basis…that is they can supply the paint and materials and you will supply the labor…it will take as long as it takes to paint it. Depending on your relationship with these folks you might paint a section of the job on T&M basis then bid the rest of the job or keep to T&M. Not much to risk on their part…and no risk on your part. Home owners dont like this approach because they feel like you will work slower and more expensively than you would if you bid it as a job.

      Another option is to bid it as a job, whatever you tell them it will cost is what they will pay you and no more. Unless you are careful you will lose on this type of bid – or if really cautious you will over bid it…either way you’ll likely not get the job. This hard bid or job bid is tough as often there will be changed circumstances for example what if you find a section of stucco that is rotten – are you willing and able to explain to them that this is a changed condition and that your original price did not include repair?

      How to bid it:
      1. Calculate the area in square feet of the foundation to be painted.
      2. Figure out how much paint and other materials you need. Paint, drop cloths, brushes , rollers, scaffolding or ladders – do you need to prime the surfaces to be painted?
      3. Specify the type of preparation you will do – ie scraping off old paint or are you only going to pressure wash it? Tell them that minor caulking etc is OK but anything more is considered a repair and not part of your bid.
      4. Figure out how much time it will take to pressure wash, figure out how much time it will take to paint. Once you have the time numbers double the amount of time unless you are really confident in your assessment.
      5. Figure out your wage per hour, multiply by number of hours and add in cost of materials if you are buying those add 15%.

      Good luck – my recommendation is you go time and materials until you know what you are doing.

23. QUESTION:
    When it comes to looking at a home inspection report, what are the top 5-10 things to look out for?
    As a first time home buyer, I’m not sure what to look for. Is the roof more important than the boiler or is the deck crack more important than the mold?

    Any direction would help.

    • ANSWER:
      Foundation, Roof, and Mechanicals. Also pay attention to any mold or Radon issues.
      Basically, give priority to anything that would require a third party to fix. If it’s major, make sure the final purchase price reflects the cost to repair it.

24. QUESTION:
    Can a proper home(roof) inspection be done when the roof is covered with snow?
    Does the exterior of the roof have to be thoroughly inspected as well to verify the actual condition of the roof, or will an interior inspection be sufficient? If it’s not possible to inspect the exterior because of the snow on the roof, then what can the buyer do to ensure that he is buying a house which has a good roof? How can the buyer’s interest be protected when buying a home in the winter?

    • ANSWER:
      The exterior roof inspection is a relatively small part of the overall home inspection. The inspection contract will generally say the inspection will only cover what is visible. If you want to make sure the exterior of the roof is inspected, you can arrange to have the snow cleaned off. But the inspector can tell a lot about the roof by inspecting it from the inside. Some inspectors will clean off enough snow to at least inspect parts of the outside. Most won’t.

      The most important things to get inspected before buying a house usually aren’t, because the inspection would cost more. If it’s a slab foundation with no basement, it’s very important to get the plumbing inspected extensively. That’s because plumbing work can be very costly with a slab foundation. A typical inspection only tests the functionality of the plumbing, but not the actual condition of the pipes under the slab, nor the condition of the sewer line. Compared to those, a roof is relatively cheap to repair. Something that typically happens with moderately old houses on slab foundations is that tree roots grow into the sewer line, causing frequent sewer backups. The only permanent way to fix that is to replace the sewer line with a more modern one. Otherwise you have to get rid of the tree roots on an ongoing basis, year after year. Replacing the sewer line requires breaking the foundation slab with a jackhammer. But if the roof leaks, you usually only have to replace some shingles.

      The important point of all this is to be aware of the risks and costs. The inspection costs money and helps reduce your risks. But you will still have risks. And each risk can be measured by how likely an incident is to happen, combined with how much it would cost if it did happen. So don’t just inspect what seems obvious. Analyze the risks and find the most cost effective way to minimize them, with a very sophisticated inspection that takes such risks and costs into account.

25. QUESTION:
    Is looking to buy a foreclosed home a smart idea?
    Ok I am thinking about moving out of my parents home and into my own home but I know nothing about going about looking for one. I was thinking about getting a foreclosed home because I had a daughter that is 19 months and my boyfriend would be moving with me. I found a two bedroom house that is 7,900 and I’m not sure if its even something smart to think about. Can someone give me some advice?

    • ANSWER:
      Just because the house is 7,900 does not mean that is all that it will cost you to live in the house. Remember that you need to have money to fix up the place. Most of the time (but not all of the time), houses that are in foreclosure or have been foreclosed on are houses that were left in disarray and they take a lot of fixing up. Make sure that you have money to make necessary repairs. Have an inspection done first. If they tell you that the foundation is no good, then don’t buy the house. Remember that you will need money for electricity, water, trash, cable, internet access, and many other things including food, clothing, etc so you need to be able to afford a house before you move into one.

26. QUESTION:
    Approximately how much does it cost to buy a mobile home??
    Looking at buying a couple of acres in the country and thought
    about building or putting a mobile home on a permanent foundation. I looked online at mobile home sites but couldn’t find the costs. Anybody got any ideas?

    • ANSWER:
      They vary considerably, from a few thousand to well over a hundred thousand dollars. Used ones can be had relatively cheaply, but require careful inspection of all the systems to see what repairs may be needed. You will need to worry about utilities: does your proposed site have electricity, gas, water, sewerage, telephone service?

27. QUESTION:
    What are my option for a 4 year old home with structural damages?
    This includes foundation 3 inch shifting and plumbing problems?

    • ANSWER:
      If you can go after the builder or not depends on the cause of the structural problems. Which we don’t know.

      If it will be covered under your homeowners insurance or not depends on the cause of the problems. In general, homeowners insurance does not cover foundation issues….but if the foundation was caused by an earthquake and you have earthquake insurance…then it could be covered.

      So…step one…find out the cause of the problem. You don’t know what your options are until you find out what the cause of the problem is.

      A reputable general contractor may be able to help you do that. Many will come out and tell you what they think the problem is and write up an estimate to repair for no charge. But make sure you get a licensed and insured GC.
      Or you can hire a structural engineer to tell you what the cause of the problem is( of course, that could cost 00-00)

28. QUESTION:
    How much does it cost to waterproof a basement?
    I have seepage in my basement through cracks in the cement foundation & through cinder block walls.

    • ANSWER:
      Stop any leaks from the edges of your home. Check around the outside of your house. Make sure the ground does not slope towards the foundation. If it does, use a shovel to raise it. You can do this by adding dirt sloping away from the foundation. The dirt should be slopped between 1 and 2 inches per foot, and extend approximately 10 feet out.
      Step2Maintain downspouts and gutters. It is very important to have properly working gutters and downspouts. Clear the gutters of any debris. Check to be certain your downspouts release the water 5 feet or more away from the foundation of the house. You can use a splash block at the base of your downspouts to do this.
      Step3Check your landscaping. Make sure any type of landscaping (trees, bushes, flowers or any other plants) is no closer than 1 foot from the foundation. Also be sure to slope around landscaping to keep water away from the house.
      Step4Get rid of condensation. If moisture gathers on the surfaces of the basements floors, walls or cold water pipes, the basement needs better ventilation. Insulate the cold water pipes and make sure you maintain the ventilation of your basement by using heat in the cold months and air conditioning in the hotter months. Sunlight and a dehumidifier will also help get rid of condensation in your basement.
      Step5Fix any holes or cracks. Check the interior walls of the basement for cracks or holes. The area around pipes is a common leakage area. You can use regular patching mortar and a trowel for these types of small repairs.
      Step6Waterproof your interior walls. You can use specially made cement formulas to waterproof the interior walls of the basement. Many of these unique formulas will even stop small leaks.
      Things You’ll Need:
      Shovel
      Dirt
      Gutters
      Downspouts
      Splash block
      Pipe insulation
      Dehumidifier
      Patching mortar
      Trowel
      Cement formulas (epoxy or latex)

      Repair hairline cracks smaller than 1/8 inch using a waterproofing mix. You need to clean out and patch larger cracks. Make sure you wear work gloves when handling chemicals.
      Step2Make your mortar fill cracks and holes. Mix one part cement and two parts fine sand with enough water to make a fairly stiff consistency.
      Step3Apply your mortar using a trowel or putty knife into cracks where water simply seeps through the wall. If outside pressure forces water through the wall, chip out a dovetail groove using a chipping chisel and hammer along the entire length of the crack.
      Step4Fix holes in the wall the same way by chipping out the broken area in a dovetail groove. Once you’ve chipped away all of the broken area around the hole, fill it with your mortar mixture and smooth it out with a trowel.
      Step5Insert a weep pipe through the wall if the outside water is trapped against the wall and is under pressure to escape. Insert the weep pipe where the wall and floor meet or where the pressure is greatest.
      Step6Fill the crack completely with mortar where you installed the weep pipe, beginning at the top and working to the bottom. Set the mortar until thoroughly dry. If the water running through the pipe slows to a trickle, remove the pipe and fill the hole. Leave the pipe in place if water is still significantly running and run this water into a sewer drain with a hose.
      Step7Remove the pipe, patch the hole and make a cement plug by rolling your mortar mixture into a cone shape that’s a bit larger than the hole. Put the cone’s smaller end into the hole where you removed the pipe and tap it into place. Hold the plug for five minutes until it’s set. Now you’re ready to waterproof.
      Waterproof the wall and floor
      Step1Moisten the basement walls with a gardening hose set to a fine spray. The walls must be damp with no water standing on the surface before applying the waterproofing mix.
      Step2Purchase epoxy or latex waterproof mixes to treat your walls and floor. Follow the product’s instructions carefully. You also can make your own mixture of plain cement and water to coat your walls and floor. The mix should be the consistency of cream.
      Step3Rub your waterproof mix into the wall using a stiff brush in a circular motion. Be sure to fill every pore.
      Step4Begin by applying your coat at the bottom of the wall, then brushing your waterproofing mix to the top. Slowly move back down to the bottom, applying additional coats. Apply only over the area where leakage was a problem, and be sure to completely cover the area.
      Step5Spray the area with water after the coating dries. Soak it completely and let it set for 12 hours.
      Step6Wet down the area with a garden hose once the wall has dried. Apply a second coat of waterproofing mixture to your basement.
      Pack a leaking floor joint
      Step1Determine if your leaking problem is near the joint at the floor and wall. Clean the area on the floor before applying your waterproofing mix.
      Step2Chisel out a a dovetail joint where the wall and floor meet if the leaking is heavy. Chip along the entire floor joint a

29. QUESTION:
    house with foundation problems,is it savalable or is there no hope once a house has foundation problems?
    The seller reduced the asking price to ,000 today. The house has a foundation crack, with some damage to the bathroom walls. A repair inspection was done and the cost to repair the foundation totaled about ,800 – ,000.

    Other than that, the house is in good condition, with original hardwood floors. I know the seller is anxious to sell the house.

    • ANSWER:
      How do you know the foundation has problems? Foundation cracks and stair-stepping on walls can be signs of “settling” just as often as a sign of a foundations with questionable structural integrity. Settling is easy and generally inexpensive to fix. Is most the cosmetic damage in one place in the home? if so, are there huge trees nearby or lots of bushes that have extensive root systems that ‘suck’ the water in the ground under the foundation causing it to settle? Did the company that quoted ,800 to ,000 determine the cause of the settling or just how much it would be to put their 12 piers (i’m guessing here, 5 a piece or so???) to (temporarily) stabilize the foundation?

      if you haven’t answered the WHY of the settling you shouldn’t consider the HOW of the fix. get a structural engineer out.

30. QUESTION:
    Best repair for a ruptured water main?
    The service line was made out of plastic and it was bumped from the inside which I believe cracked it outside the foundation. I still have good pressure, however the city came out and we determined that there is a leak just outside the foundation and my backyard resembles the everglades. I can think of 3 fixes
    1. Excavate the whole front yard and rerun a line
    2. Pull a line through the existing line
    3. bust out the foundation wall and repair from the inside.
    estimates of cost and best practices would be appreciated.

    • ANSWER:
      Bumping the pipe inside the house probably did not cause this. In most cases a leak on the main line supplying a home is going to be a broken male adapter at the shut off valve just before the line enters you home, usually within 3 feet of your house. Water can travel a long way under ground before coming to the surface. Just because you see water coming to the surface in one spot does not mean you are within 50 feet of the leak. If your back yard is wet and your water service comes through your back yard, locate and dig up the shut off valve next to the house. If water service to your home does not cross the the back yard and your back yard is wet, it’s probably leaking under an outside faucet. Or wherever the tire tracks were left by whoever drove across your yard. If you just cant seem to locate it, look in the yellow pages under leak detection. We use a company called ‘American Leak Detectors” for under slab leaks. They will put you an X on the floor.

31. QUESTION:
    What is the approximate cost of having a house leveled?
    I am looking at purchasing a home and we just had a home inspection done yesterday. The house has some settlement issues and needs some work. We are getting a good deal on the house b/c it does need work. I would just like to know an approximate amount on having the floors leveled. My husband could possibly do it himself, but would rather pay someone if it is not going to be too expensive. Also, the house is only one story, incase that matters. I’m sure a 2-story house would cost more. Anyways if I could possibly get an estimate from someone it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
    I am located in North Alabama and the house is on a crawl space. The inspector told us that there were some leaning, missing and fallen columns under the house.

    • ANSWER:
      you failed to mention what area you are in and whether you are on a slab or a crawl space. IF the issue is because of the foundation it “could” cost an avgerage of 00.00.
      But repairs can range from 1200.00 to 40000.00.

      If you are on a crawl and the wood floors need replaced, cost would depend on amount of sqare feet and whether the joists need to be supported from underneath.

      Here is what I would do. Call serveral contractors and ask them to bid out the job. The estimate should be free. If they are hungry, they will do it for free and give a little lower price.

      If you do not know who to call, in our area we have an organiztion called, Angies List. It is comprised of reviews from the members and they rate thier workmanship and price for value. ( they only keep good companies that know what they are doing.)

      Hope this helps

32. QUESTION:
    What kind of house to avoid buying?
    I am interesting in purchasing my first house (a single home) and I am doing this on my own. I am okay with a fixer upper that has cosmetic issues, and even a place that is lacking counter space, appliances, and no garage because I can work on all of this as I go. But I am not interested in a home with serious problems. What are some things I can avoid?

    I am not looking to do a fast flip. I am planning to keep this place for years.

    • ANSWER:
      1 stay away from govenors homes, trailers, and manufactured homes. They are not built to last and as an electrician I hate the way they wire them. Cheap and unsafe.

      Make sure the wiring and plumbing are up to date and to code. Alot of old home owners would do their own repairs and add ons. If an add on is obvious walk away. Ask a plumber and electrician for their opinions. Most will be straight up with you since they are in the business of safety.

      Ask for any records of work done to foundation, structure, roof, or anything else.

      If anything inside looks like it was done un professionally walk away. These are signs that it was a DIYer and chances are it wasn’t done right.

      What kind of heating / cooling system does it have. What shape is the water heater in. Look under the sinks, does there appear to be damage from water?

      Get dirty! Get in that attic and look for signs of leaks and in the basement for cracks and moisture problems.

      Find out who the previous residents were. how long they lived there. If it was ever a rental. Ask questions.

      And if someone is showing it and there is furniture and rugs. move em and be snoopy. Take your time on your grand tour. Make several passes looking up and down.

      I always check the doors and windows first. If they are in bad shape it already has failed. If they arent efficient the whole house is a $ pit and will drain you through heating/ cooling costs.

33. QUESTION:
    How much should we offer on the home of our dreams?
    The house is listed for a quick sale at right below 200,000-too much for us. Home will go to auction in August. Home is in Putnam County IN, has 10 acres, 3 bedrooms, 3.5 bathrooms, 3 car attached garage, bonus room. There is no central air, all flooring needs to be replaced, kitchen is outdated, roof appears to need some work, needs painted on inside and out, some holes in siding, missing light fixtures on garage and the ones that are there do not match, outside and inside trim missing, no railing on staircase, no dishwasher, appliances included are very outdated, behind house is old boat, lots of trash, old motors and a very rundown shed, and the kitchen floor has a mysterious bump in it(possible foundation issue). All these things were noticed during an informal 5 minute tour of the property. Any help anyone can give us in coming up with a reasonable offer will be greatly appreciated. Our realtor is the listing agent on the property so we aren’t expecting much help from him.

    • ANSWER:
      Hard to answer, but here is how I would approach it.

      Try to figure out what a comparable house in the Indianapolis area would go for on a standard lot. Pick a house in decent condition. I might used Greencastle or Danville area. Then try to add to that what you feel the extra 9 or more acres is worth. Then discount from that total what the repair and upgrades for things like A/C are going to cost (k-k ???).

      Also, consider that the housing market is not real great right now. And not a lot of people want to live that far out in the country. It’s just too far to drive to work!

      It doesn’t really hurt that much to low-ball in this market. The worst they can do is say no and it will likely result in a counteroffer that will give you a better idea of their rock bottom price.

      Everyone says to get another realtor. I don’t know that I necessarily agree with that. Realtors can represent both sides in Indiana, it is legal. Yes, he will not give you much help on an offer price, but if you can figure that out yourself, then no big deal. Your offer may be more indicative of what you can afford rather than what the house is worth anyway! And trust me, any realtor is going to have a hard time appraising that property.

      A realtor can charge the seller anything he wants. If he knows that he will not be having to split a commission with your realtor, he can charge the seller less overall for the services, even if he is representing you also (because he keeps both sides). This means the owner keeps more of the sale proceeds and therefore might be willing to take a lower price for the home.

34. QUESTION:
    How much would it cost to fix loose bricks on a home?
    Located beneath a window maybe about a total of 16-25sq ft. Bricks are sort of popping out about .25inc. House was built is 1965, It’s about to have some minor foundation work done. Just wanted to know about how much it would cost to repair that section of brick. Thanks for your help! =)

    • ANSWER:
      Answer:

      I have done this before. It took about 2 hours and cost about .
      *I took a digital picture of the way it looked
      *pulled the bricks out
      *chipped away some of the old loose mortar
      *went to Home Depot and bought a bag of mortar for , and trowel for
      *mixed the mortar in a bucket until it was as thick as pancake batter
      *put a bit in each space and packed it all back together.
      * I used old plastic CD cases to get the spacing right

      That was about 10 years ago. It still looks perfect!
      If you get right up and stick your nose on the bricks you can tell the difference. But, nobody ever bends down and gets that picky about my brick repair job.

      Good luck.

      P.S. Mortar dries better in warm weather. Make sure it’s not raining or freezing when you do this. Don’t mix more mortar than you are going to use in about 15-20 minutes.

35. QUESTION:
    How much does it cost to have a professional pour a 4 or 5 ft foundation (ballpark estimate)?
    I bought a piece of property and I am going to build a 28 ft by 36 ft (1008 sq ft) new home on it. I’m looking for a ballpark amount of how much it would costs to pour a 4 or a 5 ft foundation if all of the digging were already done.

    • ANSWER:
      I don’t want to be a kill joy but your question would be difficult to answer even as a ballpark figure because, 1 you haven’t given us enough information and 2 because a 4 or 5 ft foundation makes little sense, do you mean slab or footing, either way 4 or 5 ft thick is what you’d need for a skyscraper.

      If you meant footings the dimension would be something like this 1 foot wide by 1 1/2 deep depending on your soil type, (reactive soils need heavier footing than the ones I just stated) and then you haven’t given us the internal walls, just the external, so you need to know how many of them you need under load bearing walls?

      And if you meant a slab, you need an edge beam of the same size as for the footings more or less then a 6″ slab on top of that and again you need beams running under any load bearing walls, plus you need again to know what type of soil it’s going onto so to make sure that the foundation won’t fail on you, which would cost a small fortune to repair.

      In short without a drawing and a knowledge of what type of soil you have how could anyone give you an answer.

36. QUESTION:
    Is there an inner DIY foundation leak repair?
    I’m looking for something worthwhile and durable. Not a big crack at all and I have some extremely handy bros. Whats the cost for materials?

    • ANSWER:
      I once had a crack in my basement wall that let water from rain in, sometimes alot. I located the crack on the outside by digging down to find it. Chiseled it out a bit to create a V groove and then plugged it using hydraulic cement that I got at Home Depot. I also did the same on the inside and that was 10 years ago and it has not leeked a peep since…

37. QUESTION:
    How much can repairing a concrete crack in a pool (1/4 inch thick, up the whole side) typically cost?
    There is a sizable crack in a pool at a home I am considering purchasing. It runs almost the entire depth of the pool up unto the concrete ledge. I am sure it can not just be patched. I have heard the structure must be stabilized. I am trying to determine what the typical cost of this report would be?

    • ANSWER:
      I worked on a pool crew for the past couple of summers. Most of teh repairs I saw were not that bad and ended up costing at least 5,000. If there is that much of a crack then there will need to be intensive digging just to get to the problem, then you have to fix the foundation. Then you need to fill the hole then you need to worry about actually fixxing the pool. Like mentioned this could easily cost 20,000 and take weeks to fix.

38. QUESTION:
    How do I get a quick sale on a fixer modular?
    We have been through the wringer with a contractor who has done substandard work and wandered away with projects half done. Now we just want out. How do we get a quick sale on a modular on a permanent foundation on it’s own lot? Are any of those “We pay cash for homes” websites legit? We have some plusses, such as a great location and big decks, but the the carpets are the pits and the back deck is dryrotted, among other problems. Total repairs to get the place into top-notch condition would be 15-18k. Any ideas? How low is too low? A very similar home, except in good-not great-condition went for 5k last week. How badly will we need to discount this place to attract a buyer? Any insight is appreciated.

    • ANSWER:
      First, fire the contractor and find a lawyer to litigate.

      Find another contractors and get estimates on what needs to be done. Just fixed, not fancy.

      Follow this guidance, “Caulk and paint to make it look like what it ain’t.”

      Depending on what needs to be done, you will have to discount it more than the cost of repairs that need to be done.

      You can try to price it at the lower price and see if there are any bites.

      You can get home improvement loan, or some such financing, and complete the repairs. I would suggest that you place time limits on completion of the work by the contractor though.

      Now, on handling contractors, only pay down sufficient to cover immediate supplies and require them to be kept on premises. Also require the lien release from the supplier so that the contractor doesn’t leave you with mechanics liens.

      You could also create an account that the contractor may use, but you pay personally. Often this type of agreement is cost plus supplies, with supplies your responsibility.

      Good Luck

39. QUESTION:
    where can i find web information on foreclosed government tax homes?
    I want to see if its possible to find a home that i can just pay the back taxes and be able to get into the home without paying a loan. please let me know the best possible way to go about this.

    • ANSWER:
      What you’re looking for are “tax lien” properties, and you can find information about them at your local (usually county) courthouse. You can probably call first to find out when and exactly where at the courthouse you can find the houses listed for auction, when the auction will be, and your county’s procedures for bidding on and buying the house. Usually you’ll have to have certified checks in 00 denominations, and some way to pay any fraction of that amount.

      One thing to remember about tax lien properties is that they come “as is”, and it’s appalling what some people will do to a house when they move out! Any house you are considering buying, make sure you check it out. See if the city or taxing authority has any inspection reports to make sure the house is structurally sound, doesn’t have any major electrical, plumbing or foundation problems, is in a flood plain or have some other issue that might end up being a royal pain to you.

      Typically, you’ll be able to get the houses that need work cheaper, so if you go with one of those make sure you have the money to do the repairs or have them done. I come from a construction family, so I’m very familiar with most aspects of construction, and my husband and I do a lot of things ourselves. Honestly, it’s not rocket science, and if you’re willing to do some research you can figure it out yourself. But some things, even if you do them, you’ll have to have an inspector come out and sign off on it. Electrical things always have to be inspected–and you probably should defer to a professional on that. You can check with the city where the house is to see what inspections will need to be done and the approximate costs. Home improvement stores like Home Depot and Lowe’s sometimes have classes on the weekends to teach you how to do a lot of things. Take advantage of those as well as your public library, book stores, or friends you know in the trades.

      And, if you do buy one of those properties to live in, PLEASE set aside enough money each month to be able to pay your taxes, as well as insurance and have a repair fund. I’ve seen families lose houses they thought were paid off because they didn’t pay their annual property taxes. Insurance is a must in case of fire, tornadoes, any type of storm damage or other “act of God”. It’s a lot cheaper to pay for insurance than to try to repair major damage or completely rebuild a house should there be a catastrophic event.

      I hope that helps! Good luck, and happy house hunting!
      Dawn

40. QUESTION:
    Is builder responsible for fixing new home that is not up to code?
    We are currently purchasing a new townhome and after the offer was accepted, we had our home inspection. The home inspector found several issues that need to be fixed due to shoddy building (like putting in a spa tub but not putting in the motor or an access panel and not hooking up the dishwasher) and stated that some things are not up to code (like the location of the upstairs dryer vent). Is it reasonable on new construction to expect the builders to fix these issues due to poor construction or should we be ready for a “split cost” situation?

    • ANSWER:
      I sold new homes for the past 4 years. This falls squarely on the builders shoulders. You should have those items repaired before you close. Sometimes they will disagree with you on which building code book is being used, so be sure to contact the city code enforcement office and be clear on these issues just in case you need to know that information.

      Not hooking up the dishwasher is a final hotcheck item for the electricians and is sometimes overlooked. That is not something I’d get concerned about.

      Also, remember that home inspectors are paid to find things wrong. This is their job. Perhaps the construction manager was overloaded and wasn’t able to keep an eye on his trades like he would’ve liked to? I don’t know which homebuilder this is and therefore their reputation. But, I’m not seeing anything here about foundation issues, settling, post-tension cables, no HVAC system, electrical wiring being compromised, etc. — which I’ve seen all the above — so I don’t thus far see any need for alarm.

      Without conforming to the proper code 100%, they will not be able to get a CO (certificate of occupancy) and you will not be able to close without the CO. So, it’s just as much in their favor as it is yours to get those repairs done as quickly as possible.

      Have you already done your walk-through list? I would try and get those items done before closing, too, just because it’s such a hassle once you’re already moved in to get them to come back, take off work (they only work usually M-F 8-5), meet them, show them the item(s), get the work done, wait for them to finish, then drive back to work. We just moved out of the new home we bought about 4 years ago and we still had blue tape in the master closet!!!

      Also, if something doesn’t get done, it’s not like that’s your very last chance either. You have a warranty with a new home. Ask for a copy of it and review it as it will go over everything that is covered. I always recommended to my clients that in the 11th month (my old builder’s bumper to bumper warranty was up after 1 year) to have the home re-inspected and anything that needed to be done, to have it done while everything was still under warranty. It will not cover items that were not maintained, however.

      Hope this helps,
      Terri

41. QUESTION:
    how to fix it a crack on the outside wall?
    hiring the crack team it costs me a lot of money..I would like to know if I can fix it myself and how to do it? Any advice please.

    • ANSWER:
      Stuco or block? Is the block cracked or just the joints?…..
      There are plenty of scenarios and plenty of fixes that won’t ost you an arm and a leg. But, make sure the cracking isn’t due to unresolved foundation issues. Some cracking is expected as houses get old and settel, but if it’s major cracking get a contractor or structural engineer out to properly diagnose the problem.

      For repair options though, I have had great luck with Gel-Patch. It is a structural rated mortar and o.k. for moisture prone areas. Thuro Seal Plaster is a good product too and is rated for moisture.

      For a basic tuck point or minor poured foundation repair….this is a simple way I have done it. (I have done two major foundation repairs this season (interior and exterior) in conjunction with home remodels I have done.)

      You’ll want to thuroughly clean out all loose material from the crack. use a chisel to get the bulk of loose stuff out. Use a stiff wire brush then to get all particles out. if you have a compresser clean out the crack with air after the brushing. If it is reachable I use a strong shop vac to clean it.
      Carefully read the manufacturer’s specs. Some areas need to be primed with a latex type liquid first. Others want a sponge wet surface.
      Mix per directions, let slough.
      If the crack is bigger than the material is rated to fill in one application, fill it as much as you can, let it cure, then add additional courses untill you’re flush.
      You can use a joint tool if neccesary to match the existing, or use a piece of copper pipe.
      Ussually when it is curing I’ll go back with a wire brush to rough up the finish.
      This is a super generic overview!

      Take a peak at this link for ideas.
      http://homerepair.about.com/od/exteriorhomerepair/ss/sbs_tuckpoint_3.htm

42. QUESTION:
    How much should I expect to pay for a plumbing estimate when buying a house?
    From the initial building inspection some problems were found under the house (raised foundation). My real estate agent said the estimate alone would take 1.5 hrs and cost 0. Isn’t that way too high for an estimate only? Especially since the individual would get the job.

    • ANSWER:
      I think you should consult some other home inspection service provider like inspections florida as they would give you accurate estimation on how much you have to spend on what problems in your house. I got my home inspected from them and I got my home repaired in a very affordable cost. You can also give it a try and take some decision about the work to be done on the house.

43. QUESTION:
    Is a home’s foundation repair coved by insurance?
    I have a concrete block house that has developed some “stair-step” cracks in the blocks. The house has a slab foundation. How does this get repaired? What should it cost? and is it typically covered by insurance?

    • ANSWER:
      That is usually the sign of the need for a leveling of the foundation. This typically is the result of a crack slab. The costs can be a little a few thousand dollars to six to ten thousand depending on the extent of the problem.

      Only your insurance agent can answer if any of the costs are covered by insurance but typically it isn’t.

44. QUESTION:
    Is a home’s foundation repair coved by insurance?
    I have a concrete block house that has developed some “stair-step” cracks in the blocks. The house has a slab foundation. How does this get repaired? What should it cost? and is it typically covered by insurance?

    • ANSWER:
      Depends on the cause of loss, and the policy form.

      Typically, on the HO3 form, if the foundation is damaged by FIRE, it’s covered. Also typically, shrinking, settling, cracking, is NOT covered. Doesn’t sound like your loss is going to be covered. As to how much it costs to fix, it would depend on the type of repair that needs to be done.

45. QUESTION:
    how do insurance companies estimate the amount of coverage for your home?
    That is, how do they estimate the amount of living area of your home (sq foot), the cost to repair, etc.

    • ANSWER:
      We have a computer program put out by Marshall Swift/Boeckh. We put in the zip code, year built (yes that matters), # of families, length x width (outside measurements), # of stories, additions with size, foundation type (slab, crawl, basement, walkout, finished, etc), framing type (studs, post & beam, steel, etc), ceiling height (8, 9 or 10 ft), general shape. Also, siding type, roof type (asphalt, metal, slate, etc – whether it is elaborate), any cathedral ceilings, attached structures like garages, porches, balconies & decks (with size). As for the inside we put in quality of kitchen & baths (basic, builders grade, semicustom, custom or designer), # of full, 3/4 & half baths, flooring, wall coverings, ceilings, fireplaces, heat type (hot air, hot water, radiant, including fuel type), any hot tubs or jacuzzis, spiral staircases, elevators, chair lifts, built in bookshelves, special millwork, decorative beams. That is all I can think of off the top of my head. It is a pretty comprehensive program.
      We can also add in architect fees and contractor overhead. It is pretty accurate for most houses. When you start getting up towards 0,000 to ,000,000 plus, it is still best to get a builder that specializes in custom homes to do real appraisal on the rebuilding cost. It may also estimate low if you have an old victorian with turrets, fancy siding & gingerbread & lots of custom woodwork inside. You would want a builders estimate in that case too.
      I hope this helps.

46. QUESTION:
    What is the cost to repair/replace a house foundation (concrete slab) in the bay area (Saratoga, CA)?
    I put an offer on a bank owned foreclosure at 1K it was listed on the MLS for 0K (on zillow its worth 1.5 million). However I noticed the house (built in 1950 with concrete slab foundation, wood and stucco exterior, ranch style 1600 sq ft home on a 13000 sq lot) has many problems but I’m mostly concerned with the foundation of the house. If I buy this home I won’t have much money left. And I want to know how much it would cost me to fix or replace it. I noticed the floors slope and bulge in certain areas. Any suggestions about who is really knowledgable and honest I should hire to inspect and/or fix the foundation? Because I have no idea how bad the foundation is. The house seems to be in living condition but I don’t want to take any unneccessary risks. Plus because it is a foreclosure I don’t have any idea what else is wrong with the property. Do you think if there is anything wrong with the house the bank would give me credits or negotiate a lower price? Thank you.

    • ANSWER:
      I have represented buyers that have had issues with foundations and in every situation a Structural Engineer was hired for a specific inspection. A regular home inspector is often not qualified to make such an assessment.

      Foundation problems vary greatly. But a slab that slopes and bulges puts up some major red flags to what is going on beneath the slab. A slab is nothing but a piece of concrete and concrete doesn’t “give” much. You could be looking at a repair cost of a few hundred dollars or something like ,000. Regardless of the engineers findings, keep the report for the sake of future buyers of the property!

47. QUESTION:
    How do you know whether a house has to many issues before you buy?
    I am a first time home buyer under contract on a home. The agreed sales price in 0,000. The inspection turned up problems with the rear wall foundation (“bending failure”) and there are a number of leaks in the roof. The house was priced low because it is in general disrepair, however, these issues were unknown before the inspection. How do I approach the seller in the negotiation when these items were not in the seller’s disclosure? How much do I deduct from my offer to account for repairs?

    • ANSWER:
      You have several options. You can negotiate a lower price for the house to cover the cost of repairs (you should be able to get free estimates from a general contractor for these repairs), you can ask them to complete the repairs before closing at their expense with the price of the house staying the same, or you can walk away from the deal stating that they didn’t disclose all of the homes problems.

      I don’t know if you will lose your earnest money on the last option. Your real estate agent should be telling you all of these things.

48. QUESTION:
    What can I do about the foundation on my house settling?
    One side of the house is settling and is causing the tile to crack in my kitchen floor. I need to figure out how to make the house level again. Any suggestions would be wonderful thank you!

    • ANSWER:
      You must get a certified foundation company now. This can cause more problems than you immagine. The home will be very hard to sell if you don’t. But the main thing is so much more can happen to the walls and cost you so much more money in the long run. Seek a foundation repair company now. They are in the phone book under foundation.

49. QUESTION:
    How much lower should you offer from a seller’s asking price?
    We’re looking at a home listed for 130,000 in a very rural community. We would really love to get the house of a little less. We also want the sellers to pay some or all of the closing cost. The house is unoccupied at the time. Is there a percent that you can go by. The real state market in the area is overwhelmed with listings and not many people looking to relocate to the area.

    • ANSWER:
      There is no general percentage. There is a chance this house is already listed below market to draw interest, with the idea that that is the final number.

      Getting the seller to pay closing costs is something you can put in the offer, but you need to be specific with an amount – they vary wildly. And a lot of sellers just want as clean of a deal as possible, so adding 10 requirements could just bog down the offer.

      So look at what similar homes are going for in the area. Since it’s rural you may need to look at old data, then reduce that price by the average that real estate is down in your county (which will compensate for the state of the real estate market). Then subtract large immediately necessary repairs (roof, a/c, foundation bracing, septic/well), and you’ll come to a good number.

      If you are cash strapped and want them to cover closing costs, add the amount of closing costs to your “good number” from above (so you will be paying “more” for the house).

      Keep in mind if this house has been sitting vacant the sellers may have been paying 2 mortgage payments for some time and are even more broke than you. Selling the house may not net them any cash to hand over to you. So it’s possible that any offer with such terms will be immediately turned down.

      Hope this helps.

50. QUESTION:
    Anyone have experience replacing a foundation wall?
    I have considered replacing the entire basement/foundation wall instead of trying to brace it. There’s a few benefits to doing this. You can make the foundation wall deeper so you have the option of lowering the basement in the future. And you can damp-proof the external foundation wall and put in drain tiles on the outside and inside. But would replacing a wall or two at a time like this likely cause problems with my windows, doors, drywall, etc?

    • ANSWER:
      What you are proposing has not been done that I know of. Your foundation is one continuous piece they don’t even pour the concrete for it until it can be done at one time. Then there is the re-bar infrastructure. All of this is dependent on itself any removal or even movement will cause irreversible damage. I must say here I am not an expert or have hands on experience. I have been in the construction industry for 32yrs and as far as I know this is imposable. You will need to completely lift your house off and remove the existing before anything can be altered. Now I have seen foundations repaired and worked on but the amount of work to do this is staggering. The house needs to be supported like 10-15′ on each side of work. That doesn’t sound bad huh? Now take into effect that a crack needs to go back to virgin steel and that crack is now 4′ wide plus the 10-15′ on each side ……in other words a crack requires the entire side of your home to be supported. lol I’m not really knowing where to go on this I know from experience that what you seek is not common I’d go as far as to say very rare and it cost less to build a house. But you know what I cant back up my jaw-wing so I would really appreciate it if when you do find out update and let me know or get my e-mail from my info and feel free to contact me. In the meantime I’m going to get ahold od some GC {General Contractors} friends of mine and pick their brains on this. I am not used to not having the answer when it come to homes. I thought after my years in the trade and experience in the field, and the experience of completely gutting and rebuilding my 4 story ranch style that there was nothing I could not at least BS my way through lol Thank you this has definitely got me going I really need to know now. If or When I do Ill let you know as well. In the meantime let me know about the home the region, weather,
      climate, any earthquakes? I live in N. Calif. SF Bay Area so this is a topic for discussion in regards to stability and costs. Thanks again hope to hear from you.

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