Foundation Crack Repair Price

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   house with foundation problems,is it savalable or is there no hope once a house has foundation problems?
   The seller reduced the asking price to ,000 today. The house has a foundation crack, with some damage to the bathroom walls. A repair inspection was done and the cost to repair the foundation totaled about ,800 – ,000.

   Other than that, the house is in good condition, with original hardwood floors. I know the seller is anxious to sell the house.

   • ANSWER:
     How do you know the foundation has problems? Foundation cracks and stair-stepping on walls can be signs of “settling” just as often as a sign of a foundations with questionable structural integrity. Settling is easy and generally inexpensive to fix. Is most the cosmetic damage in one place in the home? if so, are there huge trees nearby or lots of bushes that have extensive root systems that ‘suck’ the water in the ground under the foundation causing it to settle? Did the company that quoted ,800 to ,000 determine the cause of the settling or just how much it would be to put their 12 piers (i’m guessing here, 5 a piece or so???) to (temporarily) stabilize the foundation?

     if you haven’t answered the WHY of the settling you shouldn’t consider the HOW of the fix. get a structural engineer out.

2. QUESTION:
   How much does it cost to repair cracked foundation?
   I’m looking into buying a house, but the garage floor is cracked. The house is on a hill, and one corner is definitely sloping down the hill. The room upstairs is sloping down, as well as the garage. Other than that only the garage floor has a noticeable crack. How much does it cost to get it replaced?

   • ANSWER:
     All the advise above is pretty much on the mark, apart from anyone mentioning trying to ascertain what’s the cause of the failure. Fixing the foundations only to have the problem raise its ugly head again because you haven’t fixed the cause of the failure could be devastating. You say the house is on the side of a hill, how would you know if the hill isn’t prone to landslides which could be the cause of the failure and no matter how well you fix the foundation one day the whole house could slide away? If the problem is that the original foundations were only under size, go for it if you can get it cheap enough.

     Fixing foundations isn’t as big a job that most in the industry would have you believe, after all the harder you believe it is, the more they can charge. Most of the time it’s as easy as digging a hole alongside the problem section of foundation, about 3 to 4 feet deeper than the bottom of the foundation, allowing you to dig out underneath the problem area, so as to be able to jack that section up to level with the rest of the house. Then pour a concrete pad say 1 ½ foot to 2 foot deep and 2 foot square then install a pier much like in this picture, but hopeful neater than the picture seeing trying to find a better picture could of taken some time.

     It woud only be a guess giving you a rough price to repair your foundation without knowing what’s the problem.

     TEX my red neck friend and which school of building did you spend 3 years studying at? Plus I didn’t say it was always an easy fix if you can even read and for your information that’s not my picture, I did say it was a poor example seeing I did feel up to searching for a better example.

     And that picture in some way proves my point seeing the person who did the repair was the owner not a professional!

     I suppose to a pencil pusher who’s never did a hard days work before, it would be hard and maybe a pig farmer might find it difficult, just where do you sit in that mix, pig farmer or pencil pusher?

     http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/1052257997016067599AQCvGW

3. QUESTION:
   How serious is a crack in the foundation of a house that is 7 years old?
   Looked at a house for sale. We really like it but it had a long crack across the tiled floor. It has been repaired. New tile and grout where it was cracked. It was quite long. Think it is alright? Is this very common?

   • ANSWER:
     Get a knowledgeable inspector or structural engineer to evaluate the problem.

     Alternatively, you might call a foundation repair company for a free estimate.

     This way you will not only find out what the problem is, but also what needs to be done and how much it will cost to have it done.

     You can then, negotiate down the price of the property, based on that written estimate or demand that the seller fix it before closing the deal.

     If you really like the place, you might be able to get a good deal here.

4. QUESTION:
   I’m looking at a home 4 sale where floor is bowed severely from settling. Is the foundation a expensive fix?
   this is an investment property w/ a great rental potential in the town I live. What I need to know is a little bit of potential problems that can occur from fixing the foundation as I believe the bowing is from settling the last 88 yrs. any comments toward this issue will be appreciated. thanks
   seems to be an even settling around perimeter as center of floor is up throughout main floor. House is as near to dirt cheap as it gets..

   • ANSWER:
     The expense will vary widely, based on what needs to be done to remedy the problem.

     If you can buy the house for a low enough price, and the foundation itself is not cracked and crumbling, it should be possible to jack it up and restore it to plumb. However, if the masonry is in bad shape, it could be VERY expensive to repair, as that requires jacking and removal and replacement of sections of foundation. It’s a tedious process that can take weeks to complete, depending on how extensive the damage to the foundation is.

     At best, if the foundation has settled rather equally around the entire perimeter, and the bowing is only caused by interior piers that haven’t settled as much (i.e. a few high spots on floors), you would be able to have the supports to those piers trimmed to allow the high spots to settle down to match the perimeter.

5. QUESTION:
   How much does it cost to get rid of wood eating ants?
   I was just wondering what other people have had to pay. Which service company offers the best price? My house is 1600 sq ft. And when we took out some trees/stumps all of a sudden now we have carpender ants.

   • ANSWER:
     Hello. My name is Richie. I am an electrician and a home improvement expert. I will help you the best I can.
     About all you can do is prevent them from getting in your home. Get a big spray bottle of ant and bug spray, spray the perimeter of the house, where the house meets the dirt. Also, use spray that is odor free (they say that but there still is a smell) and spray the areas where you see them most and along the base boards of the exterior walls the same as where you have sprayed outside.
     To prevent them form being a problem:
     Keep all trees and bushes trimmed so branches do not touch or come in contact with the house. Correct moisture problems such as leaking roofs, leaking chimney flashing, or plumbing, poorly ventilated attics or crawl spaces and blocked gutters. Replace rotted or water-damaged wood and eliminate places where wood comes in contact with soil. Remove dead stumps, logs and firewood within 50 feet of the house, especially in Summer months. Repair trees with damage and broken limbs or holes in the trunk. Seal cracks and crevices in the foundation, especially where utility pipes and wiring occur from outside. Be sure to store firewood off the ground away from the house and bring in only enough firewood to be used quickly . Consider non-organic mulches near the house in heavily infested ant areas. High moisture conditions must be eliminated to help control carpenter ants, prevent future attacks and prevent “wood decay” fungus infection.
     Good luck and God Bless. Jesus Christ loves you.

6. QUESTION:
   We have two cracks in our poured concrete foundation – is it better to repair from the inside or outside?
   Repairing from the outside is twice the price, but repairing from the inside would require that we remove and patch some drywall. I’ve heard that the inside method isn’t as effective because water can still get into the crack from the exterior. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
   By the way, the cracks are leaking and the plan is to have a professional repair them. We just have people pitching both methods to us.

   • ANSWER:
     out side clean the crack first apply hydralic cement then tar then test before backfilling should be permant

7. QUESTION:
   How much do you do to the house to sell it?
   I have a 24 year old home that I am selling due to divorce. It needs cosmetic things and new flooring and carpet. One agent suggested to sell as it and take a ,000 drop in price. Would I recoup my initial investment and be able to ask a higher price? I have very limited monetary resources to work with and need to make the biggest bang for the buck

   • ANSWER:
     O.K. The main thing is to minimize………and what i mean by that is to remove all the clutter if there is any. Also, I would paint, add a new kitchen floor, and possibly neutral carpeting. If carpeting is in fair condition, have it professionally cleaned. Outside, make sure there are no visible cracks in foundation, and check roof for leakage. If you have those issues, have them repaired before inspection report. Also if your house has a basement, make sure the oil burner and hot water heater works, and there are no leaks or musty odors. Also lawn mowed, and flower beds manicured and neat. Also bathrooms are something that people look at alot. If your vanity has seen better days, replace it. You don’t have to retile, etc. All you do is make sure shower tile and bathtub are sparkling clean…new towels, and accessories, candles, maybe some new lighting. Also, home should be neat when shown for Open House on weekends. I believe if you put ,000 into the house, you will get about ,000 more in your asking price. If you don’t want to do all the work, then just paint…declutter….and take a little less in your asking price. My husband was a real estate broker so I know a little about the business. The market is soft right now, so the high prices of the past are a lingering memory…It is a buyer’s market now. Best of Luck to you in whatever you decide.

8. QUESTION:
   Should I buy a house that has foundation problems?
   I am thinking about buying a ranch style house that was built on a slab of cement. The problem is in the living room. The floor is unlevel in the middle for about 12 feet. I think this means there is a crack in the cement slab. I have not signed any contract or put any earnest money on the house. Should I buy this house?

   • ANSWER:
     Find out how much it will cost to repair, then ask the owners to either make a concession to give you cash for the repair at closing or take that $$$ off the price of the house.

     Foundation problems are common in TX. Is this where the house is? They can be very expensive to fix. Tread carefully on this one.

9. QUESTION:
   Want to sell my house, but the foundation has sunk -cracks. Should I repair it first?
   I’d like to sell my house. However, it’s definitely sunk. I think the term is “settled.” You can definitely feel the slope when in the house. Will it get worse? Is it worth it to repair the the foundation before putting it on the market?

   I want to do the right thing and not swindle someone like my family got swindling purchasing this sunken house.

   Thanks in advance.

   • ANSWER:
     All states require the seller to disclose known problems when selling a house. You can make the repairs and add the cost into your asking price, or you can let the buyer know about repairs that need to be made and let them deal with it. Most mortgage lenders will require a home inspection and certificate of occupancy. The cost of repairs may also be escrowed by the lender. You may want to contact a civil engineer and discuss what repairs need to be made, whether you do the repairs or the buyer handles the repairs. You didn’t specify if the whole foundation has settled, which may require ‘mud jacking’ or if the house flooring has settled which can be fixed with a house jack in the basement or crawl space.

10. QUESTION:
    What are the different types of home foundations?
    We are in the process of trying to sell a house that was built in the late 1960s. A potential buyer commented on the way the foundation was built. There is a space of about 1″ between the floor and walls. I was built this way and isn’t a crack. Is this normal? The buyer is complaining about potential water damage. Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Well, I’d have to ask for more details first, before commenting on this particular problem. For example… where is the gap? What is the floor made of? Are there any cracks in the foundation?

      During the 1960’s, here in the US, you began to see more and more houses built on concrete slabs. There are 2 ways to approach a slab home. The first is to pour a complete slab, usually 4 to 6 inches thick, and build everything on top of it. With this method, the floor actually runs under the walls, so there should be NO gap, unless you are measuring a gap between the wall covering, and the floor surface.

      The second method, is the way many ‘post and beam’ buildings, such as barns, are put up. Garages are often done this way too. Whether for a home, garage, barn, whatever, if the grade is sloped, or the pour is below grade, then the walls will be poured concrete to at least above the grade level. Once the footers (and if necessary, the walls) are poured, then the slab is poured INSIDE the perimeter of the foundation. A lot of basement floors are done this way too.
      Ive never seen a 1″ gap between a poured floor and perimeter foundation, or poured wall, though, if you mean the floor stops about 1″ away from the wall, horizontally.

      If the gap you are talking about is between the wall covering, and the floor surface (that is, you would measure the 1″ gap by holding a tape measure up and down), then there may have been some settling, or the wall covering was built with that much gap for a reason (maybe they intended to tile it later?)

      One important question… Have you HAD any water damage, or know about any in the past, if you have not owned the home since it was built?

      And, Its still your house, if you don’t want to deal with this individual, tell them to go find another house to buy.

      Your best option is probably to hire a foundation/concrete repair specialist to come in and look at the situation. They can tell you if there has been any settling, and how to correct it. They can also, if necessary, eliminate that gap for you. In the long run, if you really need to sell the home, this is probably your best option. (They can also tell you if your situation is common for your area)

      Your other choice is to give the buyer such a good price, they’ll buy it knowing they’ll have to correct any problems themselves. Be sure, if you choose that option, to get it spelled out very explicitly in a contract.

      I’d say call in that concrete foundation expert… if nothing is wrong, they can put that in writing for you. If there is a problem, they can tell you how to best go about fixing it.

      Good Luck

11. QUESTION:
    Hme Inspector found vertical cracks in foundation wall from a window to the floor, is this time sensitive?
    House was built in 2000 and has concrete block foundation. Crack is vertical in nature and looks to go from bottom to top through a window. There are two windows with this issue.

    • ANSWER:
      If you have a contract subject to home inspection I would say yes its time sensitive. I would call and get estimates as to the repair.
      You might want to re think the the terms or purchase price of the contract. You dont want to have structural or water problems down the road

12. QUESTION:
    The house we want to buy has crumbling foundation?
    We recently found the perfect house everything is just what we want. The location, neighbourhood, house and price. When we had a building inspection the foundation specialist found a problem with the concreate foundation on the linked side of the house it was crumbling and it is his opinion that the damage will be serious. Should we walk away or plan to do the repair?
    The house is only 20 years old

    • ANSWER:
      The foundation is pretty much the most important aspect of the home, and as a mortgage professional, I’ve seen many deals go awry simply because of cracks or issues with the foundation.

      Meaning many people who faced this issue before you walked away, and the deals died on the spot. I think that’s a pretty good indication to walk away and look for something in tip top condition.

      Learn more at http://www.thetruthaboutmortgage.com

13. QUESTION:
    When it comes to looking at a home inspection report, what are the top 5-10 things to look out for?
    As a first time home buyer, I’m not sure what to look for. Is the roof more important than the boiler or is the deck crack more important than the mold?

    Any direction would help.

    • ANSWER:
      Foundation, Roof, and Mechanicals. Also pay attention to any mold or Radon issues.
      Basically, give priority to anything that would require a third party to fix. If it’s major, make sure the final purchase price reflects the cost to repair it.

14. QUESTION:
    How do I decide if a house is/is not worth trying to remodel? I’ve found a great home for a great price…
    1880 Victorian, from the outside clearly needing some work but looks like it could be an amazing house. Roof reportedly about 5 years old, siding kind of dingy but in decent repair. Haven’t seen inside yet. I have some money (not a ton), not a lot of knowledge but willing to learn, willing to work hard but not if it’s not worth trying to save. What conditions are dealbreakers, and how can I tell by looking? What signs should I be keeping my eye open for?

    • ANSWER:
      the foundation should be the first thing to look at. if it is broke cracking or falling apart, it could be very costly to fix. the roof is next and expensive to fix. bad wiring could be a nightmare and dangerous and very likely in an old house. plumbing is a headache and it could even have lead pipes. inspect for termites in the wood of the house.

15. QUESTION:
    how much does it cost to fix the foundation on a house?
    i am looking in to buying a home for 42,000. it is a nice size and has a good amount of yard. however, when i saw it on the inside, i noticed there was some cracks on the cement floor and on some of the walls.i’ve never owned a home and have no clue about the repair costs. im quite sure the foundation is the problem. sounds like hard work and expensive……

    • ANSWER:
      You should get a foundation repair company out there before you make any kind of offer on the house. If the foundation is a slab, they have to jack the house up all along the sides and pour concrete beams or some other type of support. The cost is related to how many supports they have to install. But a badly cracked house can have broken pipes inside the walls and other structural damage from the foundation problems.

      In this housing market, with many homes available for good prices, if I were you I’d keep looking for one in good condition. Foundation problems are usually the problem you can see and any owner who has allowed their home to sag has allowed many other things to deteriorate which you can’t see.

      I say, walk away and keep looking.

16. QUESTION:
    How is a sloping floor corrected?
    I just purchased a 5 year old home. The 3 story home has a crawl space foundation and the wooden flooring have a slopes from the back towards the front of the house. I am not sure of the degree of the slope, but it is certainly noticed when walking in either direction. This is the case on all floors. Additionally, I have noticed hairline fracture cracks along the drywall. I am not the least bit knowledgeable when it comes to home repairs and am looking for possible causes and the direction I need to take to resolve this. Also, how worried should I be about this? Thanks!!

    • ANSWER:
      You should check with a carpenter, I just jacked my bathroom floor up, it had a two inch slope because the support posts were rotted. Sounds like your foundation has settled. It will require jacking whole side of house up and replacing sill plate on foundation. Could be expensive if you can’t do it yourself. Get several estimates!! Prices have huge variations!! Been a carpenter for 30+ years and have done several of these. They are not fun to do and they are MESSY.

17. QUESTION:
    My 115 year old house is settling unevenly. The field stone foundation is intact, how can I level the house?
    The home is 1.5 stories and after installing a gutter along the east side of the house, due to a mold problem, the east side of the home has dropped and the interior floors are dramatically unlevel. A stone wall in the crawl space is the main support and the home appears to be sagging at all outside points. I have considered slowly jacking up the outside of the home, however I am concerned about damaging the exterior brickwork in the process and need some guidance in where to set the jacks and how to keep them from sinking into the soil. I know that the home has never had gutters, due to some original trim work on the eaves. The house is located in a semi arid climate in Colorado and faces south.

    • ANSWER:
      You should have a professional do the jacking and redo the foundation so it won’t settle again. It’s not a job without danger and the professional will know how to do it safely.

      After it’s been levelled, you will have to have the bricks where they have seperated repointed, again best done by a professional. But the brick work will be okay, if there is a broken brick, the mason will just replace it.

      Thankfully brick houses are the easiest to repair, if you had a frame house or ones with modern siding, it could mean major repairs to the house’s structure.

      I called a friend of mine whose old brick house (140 years old) settled and she had a fairly large crack in one of the walls. She said getting a proper foundation that is suitable for the soil conditions and one that stands up to water is a must and you need to contact a soilfoundation engineer for the foundation and he will tell you what kind of foundation is needed. Also she said that foundation has to have the ability to resist water, which field stone may not do properly. You might also need “tile work” done. She said tile work is essentially an underground drain system that keeps the earth underneath the foundation from become too wet.

      Before the house is jacked, you should have a structural engineer look at it to see what damage the jacking may cause. Sometimes they can fix some of the things needed before the house is jacked. She also said that since your house was older, the existing structural damage is much less than newer homes because they used different construction techniques that are more sturdier than what is required today.

      Lastly she said it’s best to consider it a good investment. A brick house over 100 years old that has had it’s major problems fixed in such a way that they will not occur again will increase the value of the house more than you think. She said over time the value of an old house that is structurally sound gets a large premium price compared to newer homes with the same size, in the same location. She said it’s essential that you get a soil and foundation engineer and a consult a structural engineer before any work is done. It’s money well spent. But when you sell the house, you will get a lot more back than you spent.

      When I answered your question I was using my memory of her experience, but I thought it would be best to go straight to the source of someone who has had it done.

18. QUESTION:
    How do you get rid of pesky squirrels?
    Help, we have squirrels with identity crisis, they think they are beavers and moles, they are chewing, making holes in our back pouch and eating the flowers and digging holes in the garden.

    Are there any true, tried and tested home remedies against the squirrels.

    • ANSWER:
      ·Non-toxic squirrel removal begins with figuring out how the squirrels got into your building in the first place.
      ·For successful squirrel control, repairs have to be done to keep them out of your home permanently.
      ·Remove the food supply.
      oIf it is a bird feeder, move it twenty or more feet from the house.
      oClose or cover garbage cans, and if possible make them inaccessible.
      oIf you have a barbecue near the house, keep it clean and covered.
      §Squirrels have been know to eat the drippings and sometimes build a nest if they can get inside.
      §It doesn’t take very long, sometimes just hours.
      ·Maybe the squirrels are digging in your garden, or flower pots.
      oYou can’t stop a squirrel from digging, you can discourage it
      oUse hardware cloth, a heavy metal screening with a half inch square grid
      oCut it to fit around the stem of the plant, and extend it to the edges of the pot.
      oPlace it just below the soil.
      oPut some small rocks near the edge to hold it in place.
      ·If the squirrels are eating your fruit as it ripens, about the only way to stop them is to cage the entire plant.
      oAllowing them to have a little may be a small price to pay.
      oThey can be wasteful, try to accept it as food tasting.
      ·Other devices, such as high frequency sound emitters and animal scents may be effective for a short period of time.
      oThey become ineffective, and you’re out a lot of money.
      oThe use of ” Squirrel Away” or ” Hot Pepper Spray” are also ineffective as deterrents.
      oThey can actually do harm to both squirrels, and other animals, especially when these products get into their eyes.
      §How do you deal with a blind squirrel?
      oThe use of ” moth balls” as a deterrent does work.
      §Temporarily
      §A determined squirrel will get used to the smell, or simply push the ” smelly stuff” out of its way.
      §So if you do try this method, wrap them in a piece of metal screening to form a bag.
      §Then tie the bag to a solid object, make it as difficult as possible for the squirrel to move.
      §You will have to replace the contents every few days for it to be truly effective.
      ·Another problem area can be exposed wires or rubber hose’s.
      oMost common are those on gas grills, and stored motor vehicles.
      oBut, low voltage lighting can be a tempting target for squirrels.
      oWhat most squirrels are trying to do, is clean and sharpen their teeth.
      oThey do this by biting through some material, (normally wood) then they pull their head back so the fibers slide between the teeth.
      oIts the squirrel version of dental floss.
      oMost squirrels stick with small tree branches, but some have found the plastic coated wire or rubber hose does a much better job.
      oThe only way to stop this problem is to trap and relocate the offending squirrel.
      oOnce the squirrel is removed, the problem should end.
      ·Once a squirrel has chewed its way into an attic or crawl space, again the only practical way to remove it is by trapping.
      oOf course repairs should be made immediately to close the entrance hole.
      oIt is also important to cut off the access route to the attic or crawl space.
      oThis may require trimming tree branches that overhang the roof.
      oRemove firewood that may be stacked against the building.
      oFill cracks in foundation walls.
      oEven a one inch hole or crack can make a suitable entrance hole for a determined squirrel.
      oWhen patching wood, use metal plates or flashing where ever possible.
      oOn foundation walls use concrete.
      oAvoid plastic or PVC vents when ever possible.
      ·If your only alternative is to trap, and remove an unwanted squirrel, you should first check with your local government agency.
      oYour City, County, or State may require you to obtain a permit.
      oThere may be certain circumstances when a professional trapper is needed to capture and relocate the animal.
      ·The other very important part of trapping concerns the time of year.
      oThe female squirrel will give birth to a litter of three or four, in the early spring and possibly again in the fall.
      oIf you trap and relocate the mother squirrel, you will surely kill her babies since they can not leave the nest on their own.
      oWhile this alone would be heart breaking, consider what will become of those baby squirrels.
      oThey can cause quite a smell.
      oPlease give this some careful thought before you proceed.
      oIf you’re not sure, please ask for help.
      ·If you are allowed to trap, your next step will be to find a suitable trap.
      oBe sure to find one that is the proper size for the squirrel you wish to trap.
      oToo small of a trap may not completely enclose the squirrel and one too large may not be sensitive enough for a one pound squirrel.
      oTraps should come with instructions to bait and set them, be sure you under- stand and follow the directions.
      §Peanut butter (Skippy crunchy) is considered the best bait for a squirrel.
      §Placing a spoonful on the trip lever usually does the t

19. QUESTION:
    When selling a property in “as is” condition, are you required to repair nail holes?
    Just small holes in the wall that are left over from hanging picture frames. Is it a requirement?
    To answer the below questions: We are under contract with the buyers, they agreed to buy our home “as is.” We close on the home on Monday, I wanted to see if this was a requirement. I wouldn’t want them to back out of the contract over nail holes I could easily fill in, but I am also limited on time.
    No one (neither agent) even mentioned it to us. It is not in any of the contracts.

    • ANSWER:
      This is a small consideration in the over all scheme of selling a home having small nail holes in the wall. As long as there are not thumb type holes you would probably be ok.

      When selling a home most buyer would want to purchase the house subject to an inspection by a licensed inspector of the state in which the house is located.. Failure of the seller to allow this condition then the buyer would want a deep discount in the sale price of the home.

      Without an inspection you are basically buying a home that could have all sort of problems.

      To name a few of the major ones

      #1. The roof leaks

      #2. There are cracks in the foundation and walls (potential major problems)

      #3. There is water leakage

      #4. The electrical wiring is sub-par (Potential major damage)

      Therefore selling a house in a as-is condition raises many flags a homeowner might not want to tackle and take a chance on without a deep discount of the sale price to compensate for any potential problems that might not be apparent to the naked eye.

      If you see a bank HUD or VA selling a problem property in an as-is condition, most of the time those are sold to investors that are knowledgeable about the necessary repairs. The bank HUD and VA sell these properties at a deep discount to these investors.

      I hope this has been of some benefit to you, good luck.

      “FIGHT ON”

20. QUESTION:
    Should I buy a house even if it has signs that the foundation may be settling?
    I recently found a duplex with a great floor plan for a decent price, but I noticed that in the kitchen where the back wall and ceiling meet a long crack has formed. I have lived in 2 other houses in this neighborhood and have never had any problems with foundation. Should this stop me from buying a seemingly great house?

    All houses in area were built in the 1980’s

    • ANSWER:
      It should not necessarily STOP you from buying the property, but it is certainly a strong sign that you need a professional assessment of the situation, such that you know the probable cause and costs to remedy the issue. If you find a settling foundation is the actual cause, understand that repairs of such issues can be VERY costly.

21. QUESTION:
    is it worth buying a home if the foundation needs repair?
    my wife and i are looking at home that has is said to have shifted and cracked 3 sides of the foundation, its on 11 acres and has 4 bed and 1 bath 1800 sq. ft and an in ground pool.
    i guess i just want to know if this is something i can repair myself with some help or will it just be alot of money and still problems or whatever. aside from that it needs a new roof and had some water in the basement. BUT 11 ACRES
    please help
    thanks

    • ANSWER:
      No, its not worth buying. Maybe if the owner dropped the price or did something about the problems first.

22. QUESTION:
    Have you ever bought a house at the auction?
    How complicated is it? Do you need a realtor?

    • ANSWER:
      Its not complicated but be sure you know exactly what your maximum bid is beforehand. The whole point of the auction is to get people excited and bidding more than they otherwise would. Also the contracts are slanted towards the auction company, be sure to review one in advance and be sure you are ok with it. Another thing is the autioneer typicaly cahrges a premium above you auction price so if you win with a bid of say 100,000 they may charge a 3% premium (or whatever) and you end up paing 103,000. Another thing to remember is typically the contract is contingency free, and they require a downpayment at the auction. So if you fail to buy the property for any reason they keep your downpayment, at a minimum, so be absolutely sure you are willing and able to buy the property you bid on. Another thing, be sure to inspect the place beforehand and run comps to find out exaclty what its worth (if your inspection finds problems subtract the cost for those from what you are willing to pay). I’d suggest only bidding on properties in good to great shape unless you really know the fixup costs and can do a really good job determining everything that is wrong with the place (ie will those cracks in the foundation require minor patching, or require major repairs).

      Finally, if you end up winning a property but get a deal that is too good, the seller can still refuse to sell it to you at that price (unless the auction is an “absolute” auction – but very few are), and they will instead try to bargain you up on price – which you may or may not be willing to do.

      Having pointed out all the above problems, there are some pluses. First off the prices are usually (but not always) below market, and sometimes way below market, so you can get some really great deals. As mentioned, the sellers can refuse to sell to you if the deal is too good, but they are paying alot to run the auction and of course the market is weak in most areas right now (very, very weak in some areas) so they really do want to sell the place even if the price is really good.

      So, you can get great deals, but be sure you know what the palce is really worth, and don’t get carried away and bid higher than you wanted to.

      Also, when the bidding is going on – if someone is bidding againist you then put your bids in slowly. Give the other guy time to think about what he is doing so he doesn’t get carried away either.

      Best luck.

      PS – This is for auctions of property where you get title free and clear (like is currently going on in areas with lots of foreclosures). If you are talking about buying property being foreclosed on (where you typicaly buy it on the courthouse steps) its a whole different set of considerations. It can also give good deals but its alot trickier.

      PPS – You don’t need a realtor but having one may help if they are experienced with these auctions.

23. QUESTION:
    I got structural inspection for new home as there are lot of cracks in the garage the guys said the cracks are?
    ok but the house is not leveled, it is two inches elevated on one end. He said acceptable limit it is .75 inch only. He said the house needs to be lifted with piers. The house size is approx 4000 sqft. I am two days away from closing what shall i do. Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      Well you are speaking of the garage and the house. Usually garage cracks are not a huge problem because they are not usually tied into supporting the structure and are strictly a slab on the ground. Which when installed improperly without a properly compacted foundation can be disturbed. You should make sure there is no water leakage causing this problem.

      If it is a problem with the house. The age of the home is important, a large movement in an older house would be less of a concern because any damage would have already occured. Newer homes would make you a lot more suspect of the cause of such movement.

      If the person doing the inspection was qualified and as you say a specific structual engineer, take his advice. That’s what you paid him for, and ask the seller to fix the problem or lower the price after getting an estimate from a contractor and do the repairs yourself(hire contractor).

24. QUESTION:
    When remodeling you kitchen, which is the overall better buy and look? granite or quartz countertop?
    i’ve heard that quartz is cheaper than granite but i’ve heard two different things about its durability. Some say that quartz is more durable and some say granite is. Which one is more durable and cost efficient?

    • ANSWER:
      As others have noted, there is no absolute winner between granite and quartz. There are some slight advantages to both, but for all intents and purposes they perform essentially the same except on one major category… repair.

      Quartz is more flexible, but that is hardly a consideration unless you expect a lot of foundation movement in your house and if that is the case it will eventually crack the quartz too.

      Quartz does not need to be sealed, but it still can and does stain despite claims that seem to imply otherwise. If you read any quartz manufacturers info they will state “stain-resistant” not stain “proof”. It is also more susceptible to chemical damage than granite is. And chemical damage to quartz is permanent, while granite can always be repaired (more on this below).

      Also, many granites do not need to be sealed either since they are naturally very dense and very stain resistant. Very very few granites need sealing every year as is commonly claimed (usually by quartz manufacturers).

      And neither granite nor quartz will scratch. It may be that quartz is measurably harder than granite, but granite is already so hard that it is nearly impossible to scratch under normal use and any difference will be completely unnoticeable to the homeowner and thus a mute point.

      However, the one big difference to consider regarding performance is repair. It is rarely needed by either, but when damaged granite or any stone can almost always be repaired to like new. Any stain that does occur can be easily and cheaply removed (sealing just dramatically reduces the need) and the surface can always be refinished.

      On the other hand, when quartz is damaged it is almost always permanent. Chips and pits can be filled just like granite and some resurfacing can be done, but chemical damage and stains on quartz are permanent since it affects the resin, which cannot be repaired.

      Also, granite will take heat better. Quartz can take the heat very well, but again the resin is much more susceptible to heat damage than granite is.

      Having said all this, the chance that you will permanently damage quartz is pretty slim and I would not make it a big consideration, but it is the most important/relevant difference in performance. The marketed “benefits” of quartz over granite that the quartz companies like to emphasize are so insignificant that the user will never notice a difference.

      So in the end the most important factor is really the look you like. Some like the movement of granite and others like the uniformity of quartz. I will say this though…. when we’re installing countertops in million-dollar+ luxury homes… it is always granite.

      And if you like the look of both, then I’d recommend granite because of the repair issues with quartz. Plus you have 2500+ colors/patterns to choose from with granite, so you can easily find a truly unique top.

      In general, granite and quartz are similarly priced although you will find a much larger range of prices with granite since some varieties cost more or less than others.

      You’ll find more comparison information of granite vs quartz at the source below.

      Good luck with your project!

25. QUESTION:
    Is 00 a fair price for foundation repair?
    I have no cracks in my walls but I do have trouble closing my doors certain times of the year.

    • ANSWER:
      It’s because your door frame is expanding and contracting nothing to do with foundation.

26. QUESTION:
    i need an apporx or exact price to lift a house and add concrete to the post foundation.?
    It doesn’t help me much to get answers like “expensive” or “better not bother.” what i’m looking for is anyone who has experience (has done themselves or knows someone who has) with this. The house is 800sf and has a post foundation. to make it saleable it needs a concrete foundation. for this it would need to be lifted and the concrete foundation added on.

    • ANSWER:
      Your looking at a footer or stemwall rather than an entire foundation I would imagine. Depending on what part of the country your in you could count on about 0-0 per linear ft on up – for a 12″x30″ with rebar and tie downs and jacking up the house and shoring, as well as the form for the crete.
      However you need to allow a budget for settlement repairs once the house has been shifted. Common repairs for this will be drywall, paint, trim and flooring. After your home sitting for years, it is used to the way it has settled, so when you lift and level it…it is bound to creak and crack here and there. Be sure you set aside an extra k for financial safety incase you do have maximum repairs needed when the jacking is done…but with 800sqft you hopefully won’t need 1/2 of that.

27. QUESTION:
    Should I buy the house?
    Okay, Im looking into buying a house. Its an old victorian style house. 3bedroom, 2 baths, 2783SQ Feet, huge wrap around porch, garage, nice size front and back yard. The price is 35k.

    It does need some work though, It needs foundation repair (replacing old wood piers and beams and leveled), Got it apraised at aprox. 7k. But since its such an old house, it can make the wood crack, brake pipes and other misc. things. So it could get pricey.

    Is it still worth the price? What would you do?
    The nieghborhood is a middle class nieghborhood. In a meduim size town in texas. Not sure on the lot size.

    But i do love the house, I love how big it is, I love the huge windows. It’s a beautiful house. (well after a new coat of paint)

    • ANSWER:
      I guess it all depends on where the house is located. A house like that in a major city like Boston, I would buy, fix, and sell for probably more than half a million. If it is located in Wright, Wyoming, population 1300, I would pass. How large is the lot?
      My 1/5 acre lot in Florida has a land value of more than 000, so if the land is worth it, it would be a good buy. And that makes it easier to swallow if issues start to creep up. At least you would still have land value, and somewhere to build if the repairs cant be done.
      I think you should look at the location, and land value, and make sure that the land value is a good percentage of that 35000.

28. QUESTION:
    what will eventually happen if you NEVER ever fix a foundation problem?
    The seller reduced the asking price to ,000 today. The house has a foundation crack, with some damage to the bathroom walls. A repair inspection was done and the cost to repair the foundation totaled about ,800 – ,000.

    Other than that, the house is in good condition, with original hardwood floors. I know the seller is anxious to sell the house.

    • ANSWER:
      There’s a good Simpsons episode about this. The house started tilting.

      (its not just a cliche, you need a solid foundation to have a good home)

      If I was in a buying situation like that I would call in a foundation expert and have him do an inspection and get his opinion before I made any offers.

29. QUESTION:
    Home foundation repairs. What needs to be disclosed?
    If it’s determined that foundation repairs are needed but not done, does this info need to be disclosed to potential buyers if the house is put on the market? (Legally speaking.)

    • ANSWER:
      Yes, you are legally obligated to disclose structural defects and some other issues. Your real estate agent or an attorney can fully explain the details to you. Foundation repairs are not necessarily a deal breaker in a real estate transaction. For example, years ago I sold a home with a cracked foundation. I had an engineer’s report and recommendations and a price from a foundation repair firm. Upon disclosure we negotiated with the buyers and I deducted the price of the repairs from the sale price and the deal was done.

30. QUESTION:
    I am heavily looking to buy a fixer up-er house with a cracked foundation…?
    Who do I contact to get the foundation inspected and if the foundation is not fixable who would I contact to get a new foundation? The house is a VERY large 2 story one acre house. All the other stuffed (pipes, electrial, etc are still good, for a couple more years. Sorry can’t say the price of the house then I would get bias results. It’s got fair marktet value. Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      A building contractor familiar with foundation repair. Foundations which are cracked don’t necessarilyhave to be repaired, most people have a crack or two. You can repair small cracks to keep out bugs & water with injected epoxy, google “Hilti” or “Simpson strong tie” for a local distributor.

      A better question would be why did the foundation crack?

      Is the underlying geology bad? if so then you’re buying a salvage house to be moved to another stable lot which is worth far less than a house with a lot.

31. QUESTION:
    Did the scheme of house flipping drive up the price for housing?

    • ANSWER:
      Of course it contributes to the upward movement of prices.

      But they do provide a service, for a profit, in that most ppl are TOO LAZY to do the the FixUp of the abondoned and neglected houses!
      Case in point, there is a gub-mint loan program in which they lend you the money for the purchase and REHAB all in the same loan! So any schlub w/two brain cells to rub together could do what the professional “flipper” does if they would take the initative and invest the hard work and: go locate the fixer and “git er done”.

      Edit: no doubt jeep grl gave me the thumbs down! with her SPAM-er answer!!
      but in fact there IS A LOAN anyone can use to do what the “Armando Montelongos” [Flip this House”] of the world do! it is the FHA 203k loan. To wit, you buy w/a 3.5% dn payment and add the cost of repairs necessary to bring the dwelling up to habitable standards on to the loan amt.

      The catch? your cost of purchase and repairs cannot exceed the value of the dwelling “after repairs” so you have to be sure you buy low enuff to include the repairs you’ll need to complete ur project. Of course no one is going to get themselves in over their head and buy something w/major repairs ie cracked foundation, sagging roof joists etc etc

32. QUESTION:
    My house has foundation cracks outside and inside. I got an estimate of 7,200 . Do have to repair it to sell?

    • ANSWER:
      Ask a realtor. But, most likely, if you don’t fix it…you will have to deduct the cost of repairs, from your sale price.

33. QUESTION:
    Should I buy a house that has foundation problems?
    I found a house in a great spot for a great price. Although the house needs foundation repair. The house is cheap for the area its in. The estimate to repair the foundation was ,000. The problem is that their are cracks between the bricks also. Does anyone know if the bricks would need to be repaired? many of the bricks look like this http://www.fixmyfoundation.com/files//brick_cracks.jpg

    Do you think its worth to purchase?
    foundation is made out of blocks

    • ANSWER:
      the question is do YOU think the purchase is worth it?

34. QUESTION:
    Anyone Have any idea on how much it would cost to fix a house that is settling? I got a estimate of ,000?
    I am looking at a house that has settled and needs repair work done to the foundation, they said it would cost….,000, is this high or normal??

    • ANSWER:
      There is a very crude check for this and it is NOT 100% accurate:

      the assumption is that your foundation is either poured concrete, concrete block, or brick…

      Look for cracks in the foundation. If they are more or less VERTICAL cracks (top to bottom) then it is a settling issue and not necessarily a horrible thing. If they are HORIZONTAL cracks, then it probably is structural and should be tended to immediately.

      If there are parts that are disintegrating and produces a hole or gap more than 2″ deep and 3″ round then, again, it is very possibly structural and further inspection is needed.

      Pricing is a very regional issue, so costs will vary with building codes and traditional charges in your part of the country, but I don’t think that K is all that bad for a foundation repair problem

35. QUESTION:
    tips on buying a foreclosed property?
    Do you know of any tips or downfalls when buying a foreclosed property?
    Any issues I should be aware of? (like back taxes, liens, second mortgages etc)
    Did anyone buy a foreclosed property and what was your experience? Would you do it again?What would you do differently the second time around?
    Thank you in advance

    • ANSWER:
      I bought my home just over a year ago, and it was a foreclosure. I got a good deal on it, but it was in pretty rough shape. I had to spend some money to fix it up, but in the end I got a good deal. Some things to keep in mind:

      Using an agent is probably a good idea with foreclosures. They are putting their reputation on the line, and their job is to advocate for you. They can also use MLS to find good prices in good neighborhoods, so you aren’t wandering aimlessly or reading papers hoping to find a good deal before anyone else does. A good agent does their homework on the property, and will tell you if anything is amiss. Ask around to see if anyone can recommend a good one.

      Liens and other claims on the property should be cleared before you even hear about it. When you go to close on the sale, the title broker will set you up with title insurance as part of standard closing procedure. The title insurance protects against any liens or other claims on the property.

      I would recommend getting a handy and knowledgable friend or family member to check out the property with you before you make a bid. Look at everything, and take it all into account. How old is the furnace and water heater? How is the plumbing? Is the foundation sound and free of cracks? What shape are the windows in? How is the brick work or siding? How much will you have to spend to fix the place up, and how much are you saving on buying this foreclosure? Make sure it’s a good deal.

      Plan ahead. If you are going to need to do a lot of repairs, make sure the place is liveable before you plan to move in. If you have to do repairs, how long will they take? What can be worked on while you live there, and what is high priority and needs to be done immediately?

      I hope these thoughts help.

36. QUESTION:
    how long can a house last and not fall apart if it has foundation problems?
    The seller reduced the asking price to ,000 today. The house has a foundation crack, with some damage to the bathroom walls. A repair inspection was done and the cost to repair the foundation totaled about ,800 – ,000.

    Other than that, the house is in good condition, with original hardwood floors. I know the seller is anxious to sell the house.

    • ANSWER:
      I think your in the wrong category

37. QUESTION:
    does anyone know anything about building a hydraulic formula?

    • ANSWER:
      BUILDING THE ENGINE: In order to have the engine live with high horsepower and run efficiently you must have the right combination of compression ratio, fuel, air and timing. Please do not try to get extreme power simply by increasing the fuel pressure on a stock engine. You will obtain some horsepower, however your compression ratio, air and timing will be wrong. The best time to obtain horsepower is during a rebuild. Since you are going to buy new parts anyway you might as well buy the right combination that produces horsepower and generally the price of the high performance parts is the same as the stock parts.

      NOW TO THE NUTS AND BOLTS : The compression ratio of the pistons and the timing must go together. High compression pistons belong only in gasoline engines that are naturally aspirated. Turbocharged diesel engines must have low compression pistons in order to produce high horsepower. The lower the compression ratio the less wear on rod bearings and the lower the internal pressure will be when the injector fires. High internal pressure is very detrimental to the life of a piston. When you see a piston with a hole burned through, it’s not the fault of the injector it is a result of internal pressure.

      To control the pressure we lower the compression ratio and retard the timing. If you compare the compression ratio and timing of an NTC 290 versus an NTC 400 you will see the difference. Where do you think we have to be on the timing to produce 700 horsepower from an NTC?

      All NTC Cummins engines manufactured after Sept. of 1987 were cut for the LPF liner. If your engine was manufactured before Sept. 1987 you will have to have your block machined to accept the LPF liner. The price to cut the block in the chassis is approximately 0. The advantages are as follows: (1) The liner is now a press fit into the block and held more securely (2) With the liner being held tightly in the block you eliminate seeping head gaskets (3) Eliminate liner cavitation or liner pitting (4) Eliminates blow-by. This may sound absurd however, when the injector fires, the pressure distorts the liner until it comes in contact with the block. Your piston rings stay perfectly round and now, with the distorted liner, the rings lose contact with the cylinder wall and thus you have blow-by. Lower press fit liners help to eliminate this distortion and (5) Eliminate cracking of head bolt-holes. With LPF the pressure from the liner is moved down in the block by approximately 3&”;.

      Please keep in mind that if the surface of your block is rough and should be resurfaced, remove it from the chassis and have it resurfaced. Inspect the block for cracks from the head bolt holes into the counterbore area. The cracks are hard to see and can be repaired by having head bolt hole repair sleeves installed. The water holes can also corrode and crack. Salvage sleeves, too, can repair them.

      To build a strong running engine you must start with a good foundation, which is your block. If you ignore block problems they may come back to haunt you.

      TURBOCHARGERS : One of the most important components on the diesel engine is the turbo. Many trucks come equipped with a 3-series Holset turbo. That is fine for stock engines. The 3-series Holset is adequate for engines up to 450 horsepower. For higher horsepower you must have a 4-series Holset. Preferably one with a mapwidth enhancer. The mapwidth enhancer consists of the 3 slots in the compressor housing that allows more air to the lower fin. With dual exhaust and dual air cleaners it is possible to obtain 42 to 45 lbs. of manifold pressure.

      PISTONS : When building an engine that is turbocharged you must lower the compression ratio when increasing the horsepower. The efficiency gained from increasing the manifold pressure will more than compensate for the compression ratio. Cummins also offers a high strength piston that we have ceramic coated on the top and Teflon coated on the skirts. The ceramic coating helps to keep the heat out of the piston and in the combustion chamber where it can further help to burn the fuel. The cooler we keep the piston the longer it will live. The Teflon coating on the piston skirt helps to remove the piston slap on the side of the liner. Teflon is the most slippery substance known to man and will allow your engine to more smoothly and quietly.

      TURBINE HOUSINGS : Many people believe that going to a larger turbo will give them an increase in power. The problem with this change is that the turbine housing of the turbo is also much larger. Which, in turn, decreases the amount of backpressure in the engine. This is good because it allows the engine to run more freely, but with the loss of manifold pressure. The engine will run much hotter. As the size of the turbine housing increases the speed of the turbine wheel and shaft decreases manifold pressure also decreases and the response time or turbo lag also increases. All are negatives.

      When purchasing a larger turbo you must find out how many sizes of turbo housings are available for the particular turbo you are choosing. The larger the compressor wheel (fresh air side) the greater the volume of air available to the engine. Now, you must be able to spin the larger compressor wheel at low RPM and to do this you need a smaller turbine housing on the exhaust side to increase the velocity on the exhaust. The sizing of the turbine housing effects the speed of the turbine wheel and how fast the wheel comes up to full speed the same way lower gears in your differentials effect how fast your truck can accelerate.

      If you live mostly in high country (5000 ft. elevation or greater) you will want to decrease the turbine housing size one step lower than if you lived at or near sea level.

      CAMSHAFTS : The big cam I, II and III engines all used the same basic camshaft except for the flange and flangeless design. However, the lift of the injector and valves were the same.

      The big cam IV 400 camshaft did have more lift to the valves. Therefore, you must use a B.C. IV piston with deep valve pockets so that the valves will not hit the pistons. Please be careful when working with a big cam IV.

      For building horsepower we prefer to use the high-lift cam along with the mechanical variable timing. This particular cam has .266 inches travel to the injector where the standard cam has .224 inches travel. The longer the travel of the injector the greater the amount of fuel can be injected. Fuel makes horsepower and you need a lot of it to produce 700 to 800 HP. Manifold pressure or turbo boost burns the fuel to produce the power. However, all boost and little fuel will give you little horsepower. You must get fuel injected and atomized into the combustion chamber to produce power.

      MECHANICAL VARIABLE TIMING : MVT has a very poor repore with mechanics of Cummins diesel engines. The main problem was that the steel piston in a cast-iron bore that was moved by compressed air from the air compressor would rust to the walls because of lack of lubrication. We now have an automatic oiling system that constantly lubricates the piston which makes the MVT almost trouble-free. The advantages to this timing system are many but the first and most important benefit is decrease white smoke when the engine is idling or cold.

      With the mechanical variable timing your engine idles in the advanced mode and when you accelerate the timing will change to a retarded setting. The retarded mode is great for making power and the major benefit of this is piston and rod bearing life. Retarded timing is much easier on the engine components than fast timing. Many of the mechanics that work on Cummins engines do not understand the MVT and may not be able to set the timing properly. So if you decide to build an engine with mechanical variable timing please call us and we will explain it to you.

      When building your high-performance diesel engine you must build a strong basic engine. However, regardless of how good your turbo, heads and pistons are, if your injector pump and injectors are not high pressure and volume, the engine just will not perform up to your expectations. You must have fuel to make horsepower. Air from the turbocharger makes it possible to burn the fuel but you must have plenty of fuel available.

      The best way to increase horsepower is to install larger injectors or injectors that flow more fuel. One of the reasons for larger flow is that it helps to relieve the pressure on the camshaft. With stock injectors and stock fuel pressure there is a 3,000-lb. shock load on the push rod. Did you ever wonder why injector push rods bend? If we have 3,000 lbs. of shock load at stock fuel pressure such as 180 lbs. Just think what the shock load is at 250 or 300 lbs. of fuel pressure. It could possibly be around 4,200 lbs. on the push rod. By increasing the flow of the injector you help to eliminate the excessive pressure on the push rods and camshaft and the horsepower increases greatly. The only negative to high flow injectors is you should not idle your engine for excessive periods of time. Cummins Engine Co. states that it is three times harder on an engine when idling than pulling a load down the highway. It is much more economical to purchase a generator or a diesel-fired cab and engine heater than to idle your engine. Diesel engines are not built to be used as heaters.

      When installing injectors use a mixture of STP. and engine oil (70% S.T.P. and 30% engine oil). Coat each injector o-ring with the mixture and also coat the injector hole once it is cleaned. The STP. mixture will keep you from cutting or nicking the o-rings. Straight engine oil is not slippery enough. Once the injector and the hole are lubricated place the injector in the hole and with a hammer handle push the injector into place with one hard push. It’s better to seat the o-rings quickly. If your engine is cold, plug in the block heater for several hours before installing new injectors. This will allow the new injector to slide in easier thus reducing your chances of cutting the o-rings.

      When setting the valve and injector clearances do not use the five in. lb. torque wrench to set the injector. Instead, set the rocker arm finger tight. You should be able to turn the pushrod once the jam nut is tightened but with a little drag. Set the valves for .011 intake and .023 for the exhaust.

      Lets start with a question: Have you ever wondered why some Cummins engines run better than others even though they are both stock? Why there are over 6,000 different calibration codes? The answer to the first question is the torque curve which is determined by two springs. One of the springs is the governor spring and the other is the torque spring. These two springs can drastically change the pulling power that your engine delivers. Of the 6,000 different calibration codes we use about fifteen of them. Since 1978 we have been documenting the calibration codes of the engines that perform well versus the engines that are sluggish regardless of what you do to them. The answer has always been in the torque curve. When building your high-performance engine you must match the torque curve with the compression ratio of the pistons, camshaft timing and the injector flow rate. This is done when we build your fuel pump. It is calibrated accordingly.

      Another method for increasing the torque, or pulling power, of your engine is to change the gear pump. This is the heart of the entire Cummins fuel system and it is located at the rear of the injection pump where the incoming fuel line is attached. The stock gear pump produces 1175 pounds of fuel in one hour running at 2100 RPM. The gear pump we use for performance will produce 1200 pounds of fuel in one hour at 1400 RPM. Did you notice the difference? Our high-performance gear pump produces 25 more pounds at 700 RPM. less. The greatest advantage of this gear pump is when you’re cruising along the flats at 1500 or 1600 RPM. and a situation arises and you need power right now all you have to do is gently push on the throttle and your truck will accelerate as though the Jolly Green Giant reached down and gave you a push. Keep in mind that your engine will respond at 1400 RPM. as it does currently at 2100 RPM., and what a difference in pulling power it will make in the mountains, hills and against head winds out on the plains.

      Another item that should be changed every six or seven years is the fuel suction hose coming from the fuel tank to the fuel filter then onto the injection pump. The diesel fuel attacks the rubber in Stratoflex and Aeroquip hose and swells it shut. This is the cause of many power problems, especially with the trucks that are from 1985 or earlier. If you are planning to build a high-performance Cummins, replace the #10 fuel line with #12 The injector pump will not have to work so hard to get the fuel out of the fuel tank.

      This month we will discuss exhaust, air and fuel flow. If you restrict any of the three the result will be a loss of power or high operating temperature. The principles that apply to racing vehicles also pertain to trucks. After all, when a truck us pulling up a mountain the engine needs an unrestricted supply of fuel and air. If the engine is getting all the fuel and air it can consume can it get rid of all the exhaust that has been produced?

      Let’s start with the air intake system. Most truck manufacturers supply an air filter and housing with enough CFM (cubic feet of air per minute) to satisfy the horsepower of the truck when it’s being built. If you purchase a used truck with a 290 or 300 HP. engine then rebuild the engine to 400 or more horsepower your air filter is too small. Almost all trucks with the air filter stuck under the hood suffer from lack of cool air. This is the new aerodynamic look with the filter under the hood. However, it is terrible for performance. Why preheat the air before it gets to the turbo? Think about how hot it is under your hood in the summer when your 3,500-lb. engine is operating at 185 degrees and your air filter is right above it. We all know what high pyrometer temperatures do to aluminum pistons. Heat and metal fatigue are a trucker’s biggest enemy. If you do not own a conventional, or cannot mount your air filter out in the air stream, then mount a second filter under your hood on the opposite side of your current filter. On a cabover it’s fairly simple to mount a secondary air filter and plumb it into your existing air pipe going to the turbo.

      The most economical and easiest filter and housing to work with is the Farr Ecolite. At 24″ long and 13.5″ in diameter, this filter has an amazing capacity of 1500 CFM The price is 9 and for installations you need two clamps at each. The air inlet and outlet is 7″ in diameter and you will have to obtain 7″ aluminum piping to complete the installation. The extra clean air entering your engine will lower your pyrometer temperature and allow your engine to run as it does on a cool, damp night.

      In the previous articles we discussed what it takes to build horsepower and torque. Now we will concentrate on pyrometers, manifold pressure, liquid-filled fuel pressure and air and fuel filter restriction gauges. These five gauges work in unison to monitor your engine as you drive. It’s like having a portable dyno in your cab at all times. With the gauges, we can diagnose ninety-five percent of all power problems over the phone. Most of the time you will be able to cure the problem yourself. This will help avoid expensive repairs in an out-of-town shop that probably cannot diagnose the problem properly anyway.

      Let’s start with the pyrometer. Always install the thermocouple, or probe, in the exhaust manifold. If you use a Hewitt pyrometer or thermocouple it will not burn off and wipe out the turbo. We have been doing this for 21 years and have never lost one. You will have to drill and tap the pulse manifold to install the probe. To do this, use a 7″ drill bit and a 1″ pipe tap. Install the thermocouple in the back three cylinders approximately one inch from the end of the center section where the turbo bolts onto the manifold. With the pyrometer installed on the hot side the critical temperature is 1200 deg. Do not operate the engine above 1200 deg. for an extended period of time.

      Manifold Pressure Gauge : All turbocharged engines, gasoline and diesel, should have a manifold pressure gauge. This gauge is one of the best diagnostic tools a mechanic or owner-operator can have. A 290 or 300 HP. Cummins must have between 15 and 20 lbs. of boost, or manifold pressure. A 350 HP. must have 18 to 22 lbs. and a 400 HP. Cummins must have at least 25 lbs. We prefer 28 lbs. out of a stock NTC 400 HP. If you increase the fuel pressure, the boost will also increase. Manifold pressure makes it possible to burn the fuel and keep the exhaust temperature down. Every four lbs. of boost lowers the exhaust temperature by 100 degrees. If you feel your 400 is running sluggish, install the gauge. Go for an uphill ride wide open and see how much manifold pressure your engine will develop. If it’s below 25 lbs. you definitely have a power problem. If boost is down then your exhaust temperature is high, which means you are killing your pistons and rings on every grade. It does not take a mountain, just a slight grade or head wind. You must have boost to have power.

      LIQUID-FILLED PRESSURE GAUGES: This gauge will change your driving habits and increase fuel mileage and engine life. On high-performance engines we use as much as sixty-five percent over on our fuel settings and many times, as you are driving, you will use more power than what is necessary. This gauge will let you know exactly how much power you are developing.

      As a diagnostic tool this gauge is as important as a manifold pressure gauge. When your pump is calibrated on a test stand at your local fuel injection shop and they tell you it has 170 lbs. of pressure, which is stock, and your engine is still a sled, how do you know that pump is producing 170 lbs. of fuel on your engine? Keep in mind that the pump stand drives your fuel pump. However, when your pump is on the engine, the pump does the driving. Over the years we have seen as much as 30 lbs. of fuel difference from the pump stand to the truck. When you have your own fuel pressure gauge (liquid-filled) you will know when your pump is producing what you want it to. Forget what the person says it has on the pump stand. Let’s see what it says on the engine.

      This month we will talk about oil filtration. Even though this is not horsepower related it is still very critical to the life of the engine. Remember the 750 luberfiners? Almost everyone has removed them by now. If you have the filter housing put it back on your truck and install a Harvard 750 filter in it. The Harvard 750 is made from one-micron paper and it actually polishes the oil. Remember, oil does not wear out. It becomes contaminated with dirt. That is why your engine will use a gallon of oil around 8,000 mi. after an oil change. The dirt gets between the rings and the liner. This forces the piston rings to ride on particles of metal and dirt. When you have extra filtration on your engine the oil stays much cleaner. Your rings, liners and bearings last much longer. Now that you will not be adding a gallon at 8,000 mi. you can extend your drain intervals to 15,000 mi.

      Also, the spinner II centrifuge oil cleaner is a great idea. This unit actually spins the oil and throws the dirt and metal particles out of the oil. The particles collect on the wall of the centrifuge, which is approx. four inches in diameter. To clean it, all you have to do is remove the lid and scrape the black dirt out with a knife every 30,000 mi. I personally did not believe that the Spinner II would clean the oil until I installed one on my brother’s 444XT. Now, every 30,000 mi., we clean it and the dirt is about 1 ” thick on the centrifuge wall. The cleaner the oil the longer the engine will live.

      This is a review of the major components needed to build a high-performance Cummins diesel engine:

      1. TURBO: It takes a lot of manifold pressure, or turbo boost, to burn the additional fuel necessary to make horsepower. If you do not have fuel you will not have power. Burning the fuel produces the horsepower. The turbocharger supplies the necessary air to complete the burn and keep the exhaust temperature low.

      2. INJECTORS: Stock flow injectors are very limited on the amount of fuel they will inject into the combustion chamber. This is where the power comes from; the injection of fuel. The more you inject the more horsepower and torque your engine will produce. Stock injectors are very hard on camshafts when the fuel pressure has been increased. Always install the next size larger injector if you want power.

      3. FUEL PUMPS: Now that the injectors are larger the fuel pump has to deliver more volume and pressure. You have to have a high output pump for performance.

      4. PISTONS: When performance increases the internal pressure on the piston also increases. This is why we have our pistons ceramic-coated on the top and Teflon-coated on the sides.

      5. TIMING: Retarded timing will also enable your pistons to live longer. Do not advance timing in a Cummins engine.

      6. FUEL SUCTION LINE: Install number twelve line and fittings from the tank to the pump.

      7. AIR FILTERS: Two are much better than one. Freightliners with one filter under the hood are very restrictive: we do have an economical solution for this.

      8. DUAL EXHAUST: Runs fifty deg. cooler on exhaust temperature than single exhaust.

      Approximately two months ago, a young owner-operator by the name of Dwain Pyeatt from Butler, Missouri read one of our articles on horsepower and torque. He called us for the other articles. After receiving our booklet he read the articles several times, called the writer several times, then loaded his Peterbilt and headed for Pittsburgh. After spending several hours at Diesel Injection he left for Missouri loaded with high-performance engine parts. The next week he and a mechanic friend of his proceeded to convert his B.C. III 350 HP. engine to an N.T.C. 700 HP. single turbo engine. Please keep in mind that the Freightliner and Kenworth dealers in Kansas City told Dwain that it would not work and he should not build the engine. In my first article I mentioned to beware of the negative mechanic. They will disagree with what we have to say. Dwain Pyeatt kept the faith and continued to build his engine. The results are as follows: On mountains that he used to drop two gears on he can now hit the bottom at sixty m.p.h. and go over the top at 80 m.p.h. That is an increase of four to five gears. As a 350 HP. engine, Dwain averaged five and one half m.p.g. Now at 700 HP. loaded heavy, he is still at five and one half m.p.g. On lighter loads his mileage climbs as high as six and one-fifth m.p.g. Not bad, considering the two Kansas City truck dealers told him it would not run. Dwain also installed dual Vortox air filters on his Peterbilt. He already had dual-exhaust and he installed a number twelve line from his fuel tank to his fuel pump.

      Mark Yoder from Calgary, Canada is another example of an owner-operator who built his engine using our high-performance parts. Mark has cleaned the clock of every Caterpillar and K.T.A. 600 Cummins in western Canada.

      I have not had the pleasure of meeting Mark Yoder in person. However, I have spoken with him numerous times on the phone. We are hoping Mark can get a load to Pittsburgh and stops in to see us.

      The first high-performance engine we built with mechanical variable timing belongs to Elam Riehl from Middlebury, Indiana. This engine is still running strong with 370,000 mi. on it and there is no excessive blowby or oil consumption. Elam stops in our shop once a year to have his valves and injectors set.

      When you are rebuilding your engine remember this statement: The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten.

38. QUESTION:
    Price of laying cement?

    • ANSWER:
      cement is price by the yard if you call a cement company you can get a quote for your area here in Detroit at Michigan Foundation it is around .00 a sq. yard but it may be more now because of the high gas prices that is for cement that is already mixed and poured out by the cement mixer. You need to measure whatever it is you are trying to cement for example a driveway or side walk, patio etc… or your can try to get bag cement and mix it your self if it is a small job say like a couple of squares on your sidewalk you are trying to repair. Just buy a bag from Home depot and follow the mixing instructions. Most bags are pre-mixed and you just add water but you also need the other tools to spread and lay the cement out correctly. The people at home depot or Lowes can help you. If you are trying to do a big job I suggest you hire a professional. If cement does not set correctly it will crack up the first winter. If you are in a cold climate area and you have wasted your time and money. If you are in warm climate the water and heat will destroy it and the weight of whatever it is supposed to support. So if it is a big job like a driveway or a patio or something like that hire a professional.

39. QUESTION:
    What do YOU check in a new house?
    I will be taking a ‘home tour’ of my new house soon.

    Does anyone know what IMPERFECTIONS I should look out for?

    other than cracks in the WALL…

    • ANSWER:
      Flush all the toilets, keep an eye out for mold.

      Never buy a home without getting a home inspector.
      That 0 or so you will pay will be worth more than gold at any price.
      They will tell you if there is mold, bad plumbing, termites, bad appliances or furnace, a roof that is about to cave in, bad plumbing, bad electrical, or a foundation that is about to slide away.
      Never, ever consider buying a home without a home inspection.

      If the inspector finds anything wrong with the home – which they always do .
      You will demand that the current owner make repairs before your purchase – or that the price be removed from the home. The inspection report will give you estimates on cost.
      /

40. QUESTION:
    What is the average range of prices from worst case to minor for repairing a cracked foundation?
    Me and my fiance are looking to buy our first house. We found a great little starter home with the perfect location and price but the only problem is the foundation is cracked and some of the brick going up to the window, so it is fairly serious. Since it is so cheap we are debating whether or not to go through with it and just fix the problem. It is a single story home on a crawl space and the right side wall of the house is the only problem. We believe since its only a single story it wont be a massive undertaking but we don’t know. We don’t want to buy a money pit.

    • ANSWER:
      I agree with cheasyhill, Just think how many contractors are looking for work right now. I wouldn’t stop with just one expert checking it out though. Do it like the big boys do, call three or four concrete contractors and make them compete for the lowest price. If they are charging for bids look elsewhere, you should never have to drop a dime until the work has started. a little friendly competition never hurt anybody and one might catch something the others missed.

41. QUESTION:
    Can a horizontal foundation crack be patched if it’s caught early?
    My offer on a house was accepted pending inspection. There’s a horizontal crack in the basement wall, (between 4-8 feet long if I’m remembering correctly — it’s not the full length of the wall) with minimal if any bowing. I didn’t detect any water leakage, but I’m no pro. Along with the standard buyer’s inspection I’ve also requested a foundation specialist to look over the crack.

    Are there any instances where horizontal cracks can be repaired simply by patching? The house is 81 years old. The front of the house is 1.5 stories and the rest is just one-story. Beyond this crack, the house is in remarkably good condition given its age, but I know foundation problems can cost tens of thousands of dollars to properly repair. Because the house is a foreclosure, I don’t think I’ll have much room for negotiating with the bank to lower the price or pay for the repairs, so I’d probably have to walk if the crack is going to be a very costly repair.

    I’m SUPER excited about this house and having a difficult time waiting until the inspection to find out if I’ll be able to move forward in buying it, so I’m hoping to learn more while I await inspection day!

    Thank you!

    • ANSWER:
      Is crack in center of wall,or is it close to a corner?Anyway after some thought,I have seen this type of crack in new buildings.81 year old house,one hair line crack,no problem.Buy it,put some speckling or paint over it.Congratulations.

42. QUESTION:
    Buying house [foundation] question?
    I’m in the process of looking to purchase a house. I found a house that is PERFECT for my living needs. The house has a downfall tho to it; it has maybe 4 cracks in the foundation. There only on the sides of the house tho. Should i run away from this house or fix the cracks? And HOW much would it be to fix them? There is a picture of the houses foundation cracks on the one side. I would be purchasing this house for a CHEAP price since its in foreclosure.. PLEASE HELP!!! Thanks!

    picture: http://i40.tiny pic.com/kbop6w.jpg <—remove space between tinypic. yahoo wont let me do the full link for some reason.. :[

    • ANSWER:
      This is an ideal question for a home inspector who can actually examine the cracks up close. If the foundation is actually brick, and not merely a poured concrete foundation with a brick veneer, this may be trouble. If it is nothing but a brick veneer it is not a problem at all and can be fixed for less than . The beautiful part of most offers to purchase real property is that the contract often includes a period to have the property properly inspected, such that you don’t have to pay for an inspection until after you have an accepted offer and if it turns out to be a costly repair, you can back out of the contract and not lose your good faith deposit. Good Luck and (likely) congrats!

43. QUESTION:
    Need to know what maintenance is needed for FHA loan?
    I’m looking at an older home that needs A LOT of little tiny things. Before we get the assessment done, our seller did agree to 0 in maintenance, but no more – so, I need to know what of these little things we need to get him to do before we get the assessment. I know it will cost a lot more than 0, and we’ll need to repair some things afterwords to qualify, I’m sure, but what of the following (and I’m not even going to list everything) should we do before we order the appraisal?

    1. Tree branches resting on service wires.
    2. needs gutters
    3. decayed wood on windows/ door trim – needs protective finish – these are older, and there are not that many spots that are bad, just a few here and there.
    4. foundation – cracks along mortar joints
    5. Chimney – cracked cap. Deteriorated bricks/ mortar, loose/ missing bricks, needs cap and screen on top – fireplace missing damper door.
    6. garage – decayed and deteriorated sill plate (only one wall, only small area)
    7. Garage Electrical – connections not made in junction box, lacks ground, altered wiring
    8. Basement Electrical – disconnected wires not removed
    9. Main Electrical – open knockouts on service panel, lack separation of grounds/ neutrals, disconnected wiring/ outlets not removed, lacks ground in 3 prong outlet at beam.
    10. Plumbing water leak at service entry – copper and galvanized piping are touching, open waste lines
    11. Kitchen – recommended GFCI outlets
    12. Bathroom – GFCI didn’t trip, sink has s-trap
    13. Bedroom doors – only half stained

    Those are the bigger things – like I said there are a lot of tiny things wrong, but that’s going to happen in my price range. The reason I am asking is because we want to get into this house – we will do almost every single one of these repairs as soon as our stimulus money comes in – but that won’t be until after the sale is finalized, and we’d like to work towards that first, and wasting 0 on something major that the FHA doesn’t care about is not a good idea in our circumstances! If you are knowledgeable about these things, just listing the numbers of the most important thing the assessor will look at would be very helpful. Thank you.
    the foundation isn’t bad – it’s minor, easy repair that just takes time – the floors and heater are practically new, nothing wrong with them at all.

    • ANSWER:
      The foundation is the only thing on your list FHA will care about. It depends on how bad it is. minor cracks mean nothing, there is steel inside the concrete.

      The other things they will look at that you did not mention is a heater and flooring, you have to have floor covering of some sort.

      None of this other stuff would prevent a loan.

44. QUESTION:
    question about inspecting a place to buy…?
    hey there

    was thinking of buying a 1 bedroom apartment and am going to inspect it tomorrow. i was just wondering (as ive never done this before) what important things i should look out for when inspecting it.

    and also, what important questions i should ask the real estate agent who will also be there during.

    thanks heaps for your help

    • ANSWER:
      If you have a contract on the property and are in our due diligence period you need to hire a professional property inspector to go to the property with you. Your real estate agent should have informed you of this. Your agent can probably recommend several or you can find one on your own in the phone book. They will check for structural defects and damage, things you can not always see. Mold if there is a need present to check and make sure plumbing, air and heat are working properly. A professional property inspector does for a house what a doctor does for a person when they go take a physical. Just think of how many people walking down the streets that look fine but on the inside are ill and we can’t tell. Drs can. So can professional home inspectors.They will thoroughly check out and inspect everything for you so you know what you are investing in before you finally make big decision to purchase. They usually cost 0-300 for 2 hrs time where I’m from but is best money spent. You don’t want to go into an REO or bank owned home that is sold AS IS and not know EXACTLY what AS IS means. If a property has mold (which you may not see) cost 10k to remediate and fix- wouldn’t you want to know before you signed the papers agreeeing to purchase the property? What about termites? Electricity? Plumbing is a biggee- many are pouring dry cement down drains and you won’t find out until its too late if you don’t test all pipes first. Roofs can be expensive too. Inspectors get in attics and check for leaks. Believe me, if spending 0 on an inspection to find out I are going to need 10K or more to repair enables me the opportunity to find out beforehand so I can walk away and find another home instead- I would pay the 0 first any day of the week.
      On the other hand if you are only “thinking” and haven’t actually made an offer on a property then you are most likely not in your ‘due diligence’ period yet, so I am going to assume you are only VIEWING the property rather than inspecting for a minute. If it is your first time in go through and see if you like layout first of all and would be happy calling your home. Most people will just feel or sense this. If you feel you could be happy living there go through again. Turn on all faucets in bathrooms, leave them slowly running as you go through rest of house. Turn on all lights and check ceiling fans. Look up at ceilings for waterspots or leaks (sign of leaky roof) Look at baseboards for water stains as well to see if there has been any signs of flooding. Look under all sinks for leaks and black fuzzy stuff (possible mold) Also look behind hot water heater for same. Go back and turn of faucets. Check for leaks around top of faucets as you do so. Around outside of home check foundation for cracks.
      Ask agent cost per sq ft. Get comps of surrounding properties to see if priced properly. A good agent will guide you through all this no worries.
      Apologies- I write you a book 🙂

45. QUESTION:
    Foundation Repair and Settlement?
    Hi,I think I may be needing foundation repair in the near future.I have a 750 sq ft convential home that sits on a brick wall with crawlspace.There are cracks in the bricks and the stucco is falling off.The mortar is turning to sand due to the age I guess and a water drainage problem that floods the the entire property with standing water that has persisted for several years.There are now trenches
    in the yard due to the ground eroding away.I imagine what all this water and moisture has done and is doing.There need to be a draining ditch outback between the properties that needs to be dug out but
    the city would not do it so I am own my own.The dirt crawlspace beneath my home looks dark but not a dusky brown dry color.A seal on or ring on a sewer pipe in the toilet area seem to be cracked,rusted or broken and I look thru it but there is no smell of sewer so I guess everything is fine…However I do smell a pea like scent around the damp places of the home on the ground,what could this be?
    I live in mississippi are and wanted to know will the foundation work be very expensive and will the company redo the bricks and stucco around it while I still can remain in the home since this will be outside work? Is there anything I can do to save money such as shoring the house in the corners with bottle jacks,knocking out the bulged skirt walls and have my friend mason rebrick -stucco it,or is this not advisable and be a waist of time since it seems there is settlement?
    I am thinking of installing some gutters so I can drain the water away from the foundation and bring in some sand to place it around the foundation sloped? Who do I call to come give me estimating of regrading my property in the places needed? Thanks All

    • ANSWER:
      Gutters are a start but you need to contact a contractor.. You will want to call several contractors and get references. You will get several different ideas of the problem and price.

      Gutters will get water away and slow down the problem. Make sure you get the downspouts 5-10 ft away from foundation.

      The foundation can be replaced with blocks instead of brick to reduce cost.

46. QUESTION:
    Looking to buy a house for the first time and it needs the foundation excavated, is this as bad as it sounds?
    I am looking into buying a home but they want a escrow 203k to have some things repaired. this is my first house and looking for advice on how serious these problems are and if I should stick it out or run lol 1. Excavate the foundation; reseal to prevent further water intrusion. ( I was in the basement and I didn’t notice any water or a moldy smell). 2. Repair/cracked garage foundation 3. Repair the sinking driveway slab. 4. repair the drain valve and then 5. defective paint. If anyone can can help me out, I would appreciate it. Ty = )

    • ANSWER:
      Excavating the foundation is not a disaster if the reason is to reseal it. If the reason is to shore up structural damage or inadequate construction, that’s a bigger deal, but still not necessarily a deal killer. The key issue is the price of the house. If the price is the same as it would be if it were in perfect condition, and the seller will be paying for all costs, and they want you to be in escrow first so that they can be sure they have a buyer before spending the money on repairs, then there is nothing wrong with deciding to enter the escrow. Make sure you do a careful job of supervising the work to make sure it is done right.

      On the other hand, if the price of the house is the same as it would be if it were in perfect condition and the seller wants you to pay for the repairs, you should decline.

      On the third hand, if the price has been discounted to account for the defects and you are expected to pay for the repairs, then there is a possibility that you can get a great deal out of this. Do the arithmetic: Find out the price of similar houses in the neighborhood. Find out the cost of the repairs, without relying on the seller to tell you. If the price you will be paying is the standard neighborhood price minus the anticipated cost of repair, you might want to consider the idea of offering a price which is even lower, so that you have a deal that is more advantageous than coming out even. A seller of a house in this condition is in a disadvantageous position in negotiations. Press for a discount so that you are ahead even after paying for the repairs, and you might end up with a great deal.

      Make sure you have a home inspection done to find all other defects.

      Mayan

47. QUESTION:
    What causes bricks on the outside of a house to crack vertically?
    I am curious what causes bricks on the outside of a house to crack vertically? We looked at a house yesterday to buy and all the way around the house there are numerous cracks in the brick. The cracks are vertical but the mortar is NOT cracked. I have seen foundation issues that crack the mortarr a lot, but I have never seen where the mortar is fine and the bricks are cracked. There are other obvious signs of foundation issues on this house like separations in garage door framing, fireplace framing, etc but why would the bricks crack and not the mortar? Further is this house repairable or will it need demolished and rebuilt?

    • ANSWER:
      They probably had the mortar replaced to conceal the cracks, but left the bricks, as that is definitely a sign of foundation damage.

      If a house has foundation movement, a responsible homeowner gets foundation repair people out to put piers under the foundation to stabilize the house. It may move a little more, but not enough to cause the problems you are seeing.

      This house has been neglected. The foundation being just the obvious sign. If you can get some spectacular deal on the price, BEFORE you make an offer, get a few reputable foundation repair people out to give you their opinions on repair ability.

      And remember, if the foundation has moved enuf, pipes in the walls and floors may be bent and ready to start leaking and other structural damage may have occurred.

      Probably not a good idea to buy.

48. QUESTION:
    Buying an Older House: buying price vs. cost of repair?
    There is a Home right in a good part of town, accross the street from a public school, with a huge backyard. its a 3 br house with dining room and kitchen seperate, with a loft master bedroom.
    the only problem with that house is that the basement floods with a good rain, and 3 of the 4 walls in the foundation are bowed, cracked, and leaking. the pain on the exterior need complete overhaul, and the roof needs to be done too. basically, I figure I could pay around 8K to fix the basement problem, and then another 8K for Vynle siding, and then another few Ks to fix the roof. the amount asked for this home is 69K. I want to offer them 49K plus 1K cash to help them get thier stuff out. then take out a Total loan for 65K to fix those problems. what do you think?

    • ANSWER:
      I would never buy a house with obvious foundation or roofing problems. It will turn into a money pit.

49. QUESTION:
    How to repair fairly large basement cracks? Also, other basement problems?
    I am looking into buying a home that is very nice for the most part, but has several basement issues. There is a crack on one wall that is about a half inch wide and it is vertical at the top but starts to turn horizontal about halfway to the floor. There is paneling on one wall that is buckling out, I’m assuming this is due to moisture. There is also a crack on another wall of the basement that doesn’t look severe, but is still worrysome. My father is a retired carpenter who could do the work to fix it, but is unsure of the cost. What would need to be done and what would the cost be? I’m trying to decide if its even worth putting in an offer on this house. . . Any info is VERY MUCH appreciated. Thanks!

    I don’t know if it matters, but the home is 1130 square feet.

    • ANSWER:
      oooo boy…..

      Well, a half inch wide crack is pretty significant. And you didn’t say how long it was….

      My suggestion would be to call a foundation repair contractor (if you’re serious about buying the home), and have them come in and give you an estimate on the repairs.

      A half inch wide crack is enough to see some serious settling of the walls above – which can lead to all kinds of problems, depending on the wall structure, exterior, and interior coverings.

      You could also use the estimate as a bargaining tool when negotiating the price of the home.

      Good Luck

50. QUESTION:
    I need law advice in texas about if I am able to sue the previous owner of my home regarding foundation?
    So my husband and I purchased our home about 4 months ago. We knew the home had foundation issues going into it but it came with a lifetime waranty on the majority of the piers inside the home and a 2 year warranty on the piers on the extension at the back of the home so we werent concerned. We specifically asked if the waranty on both would be transferable and valid via email and the sellers realtor said it was (I have this email). Now we had some cracking in the walls at the back of the house near where the extension was and we called the repair company. They come out and say that it is because the extension is sinking however (all the piers in question should of been covered), so I think its fine because we still have a year left on the waranty with the other company. However the foundation guy says that if we have the other company do the repair it will Null the waranty on the house, and that in fact there is very good chance since the foundation work done on the extension happend after the original work was done on the house that our waranty may already be nulled. So essentially I have two options to keep my house fully covered under waranty, both places offer the option to absorb the others waranty for a large price per beam, but in order to get the house fixed I have to pick one, and either pay to absorb the whole house warranty and have the repairs for free under my warranty or pay to have the repairs done from scratch (which would actually be cheaper) and the company will overlook the previous error on the part of the previous owner. This all being said my house needs to be fixed, Can I go back to the original owner for the cost based on the fact that he sold me the home when the warranty was no good because of how he did the repairs? He never lived there and does these home renovations for a liveing, so I am assumeing he knew that by getting the repairs from some one else instead of the original foundation guy he would void the warranty. The fact that I specifically asked if all my warrantys were good- and purchased the home based on this, do I have a case to sue him? And should I take the cheapest route to just redo the repair, when my whole basis for the lawsuit would be that he nulled the other waranty? PLEASE HELP! Either way Im looking to be spending in the thousands which I dont think is fair since this part of the home was promised to be covered when we purchased.
    I did have a home inspection, includeing a specific founcdation inspection. At the time there were no ongoing issues. As for prooveing the owner knew that it would void the waranty it is stipulated on the back of the waranty that if any work is done that it would void it. So by this right he should have known
    I also have an email confirming (as stated above) from my realtor to his asking that all warrantys are valid. And they confirmed, I wouldnt have been allowed to confirm with the companys as the warrantys werent in my name until the house was sold. That being said the first company didnt know about the second pier repair until I mentioned it not knowing myself that this would void the first.

    • ANSWER:
      A couple of points and neither of them are in your favor as far as a successful suit goes.

      You should have had a home inspection done prior to purchase.

      You should have confirmed with what every company was providing a warranty that it was in good standing and that nothing had been done that might void that warranty. An email from the realtor isn’t proper due diligence.

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