Sinking House Foundation Repairs

♦ December 8, 2012 ♦ Leave Your Comment

If you have bought an older home recently or have lived in one for many years, then you might not be surprised to discover that some settling has occurred over the years. This is not so much to be expected in a newer home, but it does occur in those as well. Unless you know the signs to look for, you could have some serious structural damage taking place before you have realized that it is happening, but there are some sure signs that you can take notice of that could help you to avoid a tremendous cost in home repairs.Since structural damage usually begins to occur underneath the home, it could be years before you ever go under there and see the damage that has taken place. The upside of structural damage that might be occurring underneath the home is that it will also show itself inside the home as well in most cases. The signs could begin as things that are hardly noticeable at all, but when you know what to look for, it is easy enough to spot.If you begin to notice that the furniture that you have placed against a wall is leaning forward or backward, this means that you floor is not level. This is a sign that the the joists under the floor could be becoming misaligned. The block foundation of the home could be sinking into the ground around the outer edge of the home or the support pillars underneath the home could be sinking. This can cause the joists to shift and begin to sag.Other signs on the inside of the home is when you begin to see cracks in your sheet rock. This is because the shifting of the home applies pressure to the nailed down sheet rock and it will begin to crack under the pressure literally. You might also notice that some window and door frames inside the house look crooked and misaligned. This is also a sure sign of structural problems if they were plum and even before.Of course, some of the most obvious signs outside the home is if you see cracks in your foundation or the brick on the outer walls if your home has it. You might begin to see cracks where your siding is joined or other outside wall coverings.The most important thing is that if you do begin to see any of these signs of foundation failure inside or outside your home, get a professional out to investigate the cause as quickly as possible. It can be cause by moisture and water damage. It can be caused by inadequate construction, but you will not know for sure until a professional has looked into it for you. The sooner you have the problem corrected, the less money it is likely to cost you and the less repairs will have to be made. Structural damage can tremendously effect the value of your home.

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    What to do my house Foundation sinking towards the front?
    The foundation of my house is settling towards the front of house…. The foundation repair companies have told me to just raise the front of the house… N some have told me to raise both front n back…. Who should I listen too???

    • ANSWER:
      At the minimum, those who are saying to raise the front of the house. At the max, BOTH!

      Hope this helps.

      ‘av’a g’day mate.

      “)

  2. QUESTION:
    What can be done for a house foundation which is settling unevenly?
    The foundation of my house seems to be settling unevenly. The garage area is sinking faster than the rest of the house, and it is starting to cause cracks in the walls. What can be done to stop or reverse this before it gets too bad? The house is about 40 years old.

    • ANSWER:
      Call a foundation expert to assess the problem and recommend repairs. You can’t do this yourself.

      There is a new process called hydro-jacking which may be an option for you as an alternative to having new piers placed under the slab. Hydraulic cement is injected in strategic locations under the slab to level out low spots, is less labor-intensive than trenching around the foundation and can be done for a fraction of what a typical repair job will cost. Ask the contractor who comes to see you about this.

      Once the foundation repair is complete you may have to address water problems that caused the slab to sink in the first place. Gutters/downspouts, french drains, etc. are cheap insurance.

  3. QUESTION:
    What is the best way to repair cracked cinderblock basement?
    We are thinking of buying a house with a bad cement block basement,it has vertical & horizontal cracks.We want to do it cost effective but lasting.

    • ANSWER:
      First you have to ensure that this is not due to the foundations sinking? if that is the problem then Underpinning $$$$$$ is the solution, its a worry that you have both the vertical and horizontal cracks, good luck

  4. QUESTION:
    just to give me an idea, how much can a cracked or sinking foundation cost to repair?
    we are looking to buy a cute home, but the foundation is cracked and one wall is sinking…we may think it is worth it depending on repair costs. I just need and average cost nubmer just to have an idea of what we would be getting into.

    • ANSWER:
      Wow! That’s just about rebuilding the whole house – think about it! The foundation – just by definition it means the base , in this case, of the house. You are looking at at least 20K maybe on up to 50K depending on the size and the land it’s being erected on – there could be an underlying problem – sinkholes, etc. – Seems like a bad investment unless you tear it down and start over! Remember – you get what you pay for!

  5. QUESTION:
    How do I repair or replace a drain pipe that goes under our cement foundation?
    The damaged portion is about 3 feet straight down at the 90 degree joint on the back of our house on our kitchen sink drain. The line then continues to run under the house connecting the main line somewhere along the way. Roto Rooter’s clean out went straight into the dirt and never made the turn and then came back out full of sand and spoiled/stagnet gray/black water. Is it possible to dig down and slightly under the foundation for this type of repair?
    Thanks so much.

    • ANSWER:
      yep, when replacing the pipe put 2- 45 deg turns in it
      instead of a 90 deg, easier to run a snake thru next time,

  6. QUESTION:
    What is the best way to raise a sagging house?
    The house I bought is sinking in the center. I must raise it. What is the best way to do it myself? I would like to save the door facings and all the orginial wood walls. Are there special things I should know? If so, what are they? Please help. This house is very special to me. It just needs a lot of work.

    • ANSWER:
      Actually, anyone you would hire to come in and do this will not play around with it for weeks to bring it back to where it should be. So there is no such thing that if you do it too fast things will begin to crack. If you go to far this could happen, if you do not take certain precautions it could happen too.

      If it sank a considerable amount and you do not have cracking going on then there really is a lot of flexability here. For each inch you must raise it I would problably allow 1/8 ” for the winter time contraction of the wood and ground ..etc. So if you need to raise it four inches then go to 3 1/2 ”
      If you intend to repair the foundation the home will actually be raised higher than the level point so the foundation can be accessed.
      The logic is, if it were level and is sinking that means it swung to the left by a certain amount. Therefore, it can also be taken the opposite direction by at least that same amount.
      Just like an angle and every angle has a counter angle, but the only solution is to repair the foundation that is the ‘Fault” here that enabled this to occur. Foundation jacks are only temporary preventions – preventing it from getting worst not a cure to an ongoing problem.

  7. QUESTION:
    How to fix a house that tilting?
    I know a contractor has to the job, but how would you fix a house that tilting? Its lifting up from the front, and sagging from the back how would one go by to fix a problem like that. Would like some information on how its done, it’s not something i would do myself but would like some knowledge on how it would be fixed. So when i contact a contractor at least i know some information on what am dealing with.

    • ANSWER:
      I’m a Contractor and I’ve come across similar problems such as yours.
      It all depends on your foundation and the soil in your area.
      Maybe your house was built on an underground stream or spring.
      In which case, well…let’s just say that would be your worse-case scenario.
      See, what you want to find out is WHY is your foundation shifting, or sinking.
      Sure, you can fix it by driving new pylons or beefing up or replacing your foundation,
      but if you haven’t found out and removed or fixed the problem,
      your repairs won’t last too long.
      It might only be that the original construction was substandard and needs to be brought up to par.
      Whatever you do, get a geological survey of your site.
      This will tell you a lot about the ground under and around your home and whether it can support a house.

  8. QUESTION:
    What can cause a house to fail inspection in Missouri? How serious do defects have to be?
    In the house we are looking to buy, there are problems like paint peeling off walls, light fixtures being loose and electrical outlets not having covers on them, minor things we could easily repair ourselves with little cost because we own many of the supplies. Could this cause the house we want to buy to fail the inspection?
    No, I am not trying to back out of any earnest money. Im just not sure how/what kind of things inspectors look for and how hard they look at things. It’s an inspection for a FHA loan.

    • ANSWER:
      to did not indicate what inspection you meant; if you mean
      an inspection for your house insurance; no. IF you mean for
      an occupancy permit; yes. Different lenders require
      different things to be taken care of so that you will be
      inspired to pay the mortgage and not get caught with
      a “real estate sink hole.”

      IN some cases, an inspection can find non-remedial problems
      like faulty foundations, bad tresses, contaminated wells, and more.

      Some people have bought houses that soon strained their
      skill levels and savings.

  9. QUESTION:
    Does anyone know the average cost of repairing the foundation of a 1911 craftsman house (1,549 sqft)?
    The house is located in Los Angeles, CA. and I think the house is being held up by a pier and beam foundation. The floor areas are sinking and some doors and windows are starting to stick. Do we go with a contractor or structural engineer? Has anyone used Servicemagic.com?

    • ANSWER:
      Usually they’ll just put your home up on jacks…it shouldn’t be that much. We got under my house and did it ourselves. The kitchen floor wasn’t even when we moved it and it bothered me!

  10. QUESTION:
    What is best to use to eliminate spring tail bugs ?
    I have a mild (for now) case of spring tail bugs that appear regularly in my kitchen sink. They are annoying and embarrassing. I have replaced all of the pipes under the sink and even replaced the garbage disposal because I thought they might be in there. I would like to treat this problem myself. Can you suggest anything that works that can be purchased at Home Depot or Menards or someplace local like that ?

    • ANSWER:
      I’m sorry, I can’t name a product specifically (except diatomaceous earth, sold as Safer, and Bifen, with which I have no experience) because I couldn’t find an article that named one; all of them suggested an exterminator. This is what I did find:

      * Fix moisture problems inside the house. Pay particular attention to the wood window and door sills with water damage.
      * Repair leaking and dripping pipes.
      * Remove mold related to water leaks.
      * Clean up loose materials from damp floor.
      * Eliminate any moist or organic matters.
      * Avoid over-watering and allow the soil to dry between watering.
      * Increase ventilation, artificial air movement from fans or use a dehumidifier.
      * Permit proper air circulation around house foundation.
      * Remove moist leaves, moldy wood items, compost piles and decaying vegetable matters.
      * Remove excessive mulch. Mulch should only be 2-4 inches deep so it remains dry most of the time.
      * Clip bushes and ground cover.
      * Seal cracks and crevices with caulk.

      # Bifen Granules – Bifen granules are potent and can be used indoors and outdoors, making them a pretty versatile solution. Their effect also lasts longer than most insecticides. Each granule emits fumes that are harmful to springtails, which is why a 25-pound bag is enough to cover two acres of land. Apply these babies around your property and your springtail problem will soon come to an end. Just keep your pets way from them since the granules are poisonous.
      # Insect Spray – Insect sprays work best when applied on cracks, crevices and hard to reach places. The poisonous cloud emitted will take out any pest that it touches, including springtails. Make sure you wear a safety mask when applying. Long exposure to the gas may damage your respiratory system.
      # Liquid Insecticide – Bifen granules work even better when partnered with liquid insecticide. Not only does liquid insecticide kill springtails instantly, it also increases the effects of the granules. Spread the granules around the springtail havens, preferably near the exit points. Once done, spray the insecticide onto where you placed the granules. If the springtails are hiding beneath an object, simply lift it up and exterminate everything that’s moving.
      # insecticide dust Insecticide Dust – Insecticide dust is highly corrosive, so you better wear safety gloves when handling it. Place a generous amount in a hand duster and blow the particles onto a springtail colony. Within minutes, the dust will eliminate them all. This solution is perfect for the smallest crevices.

      From a practical experience, wettable powder formulations (WP) seem to provide better springtail management results than other formulations, especially when they are used as barrier/perimeter treatments. A desiccant dust (silica gel or diatomaceous earth) can be used to treat voids around bathtubs, showers, along plumbing and water pipes. However, where mulch and wood chips are present, it is recommended to use granules, as they release slowly into treated areas. Depending on the product selected for this purpose, granules can provide more than two months of residual effects.

      www.pctonline.com/PCT1005_occationalinvaders.aspx

  11. QUESTION:
    Want to sell my house, but the foundation has sunk -cracks. Should I repair it first?
    I’d like to sell my house. However, it’s definitely sunk. I think the term is “settled.” You can definitely feel the slope when in the house. Will it get worse? Is it worth it to repair the the foundation before putting it on the market?

    I want to do the right thing and not swindle someone like my family got swindling purchasing this sunken house.

    Thanks in advance.

    • ANSWER:
      All states require the seller to disclose known problems when selling a house. You can make the repairs and add the cost into your asking price, or you can let the buyer know about repairs that need to be made and let them deal with it. Most mortgage lenders will require a home inspection and certificate of occupancy. The cost of repairs may also be escrowed by the lender. You may want to contact a civil engineer and discuss what repairs need to be made, whether you do the repairs or the buyer handles the repairs. You didn’t specify if the whole foundation has settled, which may require ‘mud jacking’ or if the house flooring has settled which can be fixed with a house jack in the basement or crawl space.

  12. QUESTION:
    How much would it cost to fix my house?
    My house is pretty old, about 107 years old. The house is a decent size; three bedrooms, living room, kitchen, and a bathroom. The only bad thing is there isn’t central heating and cooling so it gets pretty hot in the summer and super cold in the winter.

    This is what needs to be fixed; windows (8), the whole bathroom (shower, toilet, sink), plumbing in the kitchen and bathroom, electrical wiring, floors, and possibly foundation.

    My questions is, is it possible to fix each room separetly while still living in the house? If so, how much would it cost roughly?

    Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Yes you can do each room separately, and you really will need to get a builder’s quote to get an accurate estimate.

      But to give you an idea, we live in a 99 year old house that was in desperate need of renovations when we bought it, it cost us about 60K to fix it. That included cladding and insulation, repairing the roof, building a proper shed, re stumping, new walls etc

  13. QUESTION:
    What is the easiest and best way to get rid of roaches?
    My fiancé and I are moving into a house Saturday and find out that we have a small roach problem. Hopefully it’s small! Of coarse if you just see one there is way more than that. Please give me some helpful tips..thanks

    • ANSWER:
      It is late at night as you step into the bathroom and flip on the light. From the corner of your eye, you see a little roach scurry into the shadows. You know that for every cockroach you see, there are dozens you can’t. Luckily, there are ways to get rid of cockroaches and keep them from returning.

      1. Clean, clean, clean. Cockroaches love to live in dirt, clutter and dark, damp places. Cover trash and set it outside of the house. Wash all dishes immediately after use and keep food in sealed containers. Clean the bathroom and kitchen regularly as these areas are generally the first place cockroaches establish a base.

      2. Remove hiding places. Get rid of extra clutter. Remove any shelf paper from drawers and cabinets. You should also replace any loose wallpaper.

      3. Plug holes and cracks. A tightly sealed house is less likely to have cockroaches. You should patch any cracks and seal all openings that you can find. Stuff steel wool around pipes and in other holes you come across.

      4. Take away their water. Cockroaches can live a very long time without food, but they need water on a daily basis. Begin by repairing any water leaks. Dry out sinks, the shower and tub after use. You can also pour bleach down the drains.

      5. Apply boric acid powder. This powder can be sprinkled or dusted onto virtually any surface and is one of the best products for killing roaches. You should put this in any area that is dark or damp. You can also dust places where you have seen cockroaches. Depending on where you live, it may be beneficial to sprinkle the powder under your home and around the foundation.

      6. Spray your shoes with bug spray. One common way to get rid of a cockroach is to step on it with your shoe. Unfortunately, there are times when a cockroach’s eggs will deposit on your shoes only to hatch later. A bug spray on your shoes will most often kill the eggs as well as the roach that you squish.

      7. Call the exterminator, depending on how infested an area is. It can take more than one visit to ensure that all cockroaches are gone. This combined with all the other steps should ensure that you have gotten rid of the cockroaches.

  14. QUESTION:
    What is an average cost for repairing a front porch. It is composed of 2 sandstone slabs & supports a railing?
    The concrete connecting the railing has deteriorated as has the concrete sealing it to the house. The slab now shifts when stepped on. The cinder blocks underneath also appear to have sunk.

    • ANSWER:
      You shouldn’t pay more than – sqft (demolition your previous concrete is included) to pour the porch. Usually we charge 0 to install 100 blocks. To pour foundation it’s about for liner foot. So if your perimeter is 12′ by 22′ it should be about 0.

  15. QUESTION:
    If a foundations is sinking, is it a repairable problem, or is the home done for?
    I suspect my foundation is sinking, but that has not been verified yet….One of my floors slopes towards an outside wall, and there is a hairline diagonal crack going from the doorframe to the roof pointing towards the outer wall…there is also a weak floor area directly under the hairline crack.

    is a sinking foundation something that is worth repairing? what should I look for?

    • ANSWER:
      this question isn’t so easily answerable as you didn’t provide needed information. however, almost all houses settle and their foundations shift/sink/rise. this can be because of a number of reasons from anything to a sinkhole opening up under the house to hydrostatic pressure building from the rainy season.
      when a part of the foundation sinks or moves, a large enough degree, it will change the square of the home, and this will crack plaster, make doors and windows stick and not be able to open and shut normally/etc.
      to actually know what is what you almost need a foundation engineer to look at things and make a assessment. from your description no one can really tell you if it is worth it (we do not the value of your home, it’s age or the circumstances involved.) but I can tell you usually it can in fact be fixed, or even ignored. if your house for instance in brand new, and you just moved in and your foundation shifted 6 inches out of norm already…then I’d say you have something seriously to be worried about…if it’s 100+ years old and all you have is that crack, I’d say you probably have nothing to do worry about at all.
      a foundation engineer will know specifically though and it shouldn’t cost a lot just to get them to look….although if you have one come from a company, I would outright tell them your policy is to never have the person’s company doing the assessment do the work involved, so it won’t do him any good to alarm you if it isn’t something that needs alarming over. (course even if you tell them that, you can then still have his company do the work anyways. not like they’d turn it down.)

  16. QUESTION:
    What does under grade mean referring to house slab?
    My inspection report of a house came back saying that the SE corner was in danger of being under grade…..(it is slab on grade home) what does that mean? The slab is slanted or what? I’m so confused by the lingo!!

    • ANSWER:
      The grade is the level of the ground the concrete is sitting on. When a concrete slab is formed, they “shoot a grade” to ensure the top portion of the slab is level. The bottom of the slab is not as critical. So when a portion of a slab is “in danger of being under grade”, it means the slab is sinking on that portion of the slab. This is a very bad and costly thing. Most people use the term “foundation fault”. This is usually caused by time or poor construction procedures where the ground under the slab is washing out. If yo are looking to buy the house, my first suggestion would be to look at other houses and pass this one by. If you are selling this house, this will be more difficult. You will need to repair this problem before you can sell. If you hide it and sell the house and it is discovered later, you can be sued for nondisclosure. You will need to contact a foundation repair company or at least mention the problem in the property listing.

  17. QUESTION:
    The foundation on our townhouse is sinking due to outside drainage from the downspouts!?
    I had a soil engineer inspect the problem and it turns out it is from our downspouts and a retaining wall that is along side our house. Is the Homeowners Association responsible for the repairs?

    • ANSWER:
      it depends on the contract that you sign with the home owners association. most of the time the answer is no unless they are at fault or cause.

      Sometimes they will cover certain issues the only way to get a direct answer is to check with the association and with an attorney.

  18. QUESTION:
    How much would it cost to add a sink? Is it even possible?
    I want to add a sink to a room in my house that is adjacent to a bathroom. I want the sink to be against the same wall as the bathroom’s sink, and about ten feet away from it. Can the water and drain pipes for the new sink just be connected to those of the bathroom sink? I don’t want any fancy counters built or anything; I just want a 30 in. base cabinet put in. If this is possible, how much would all of the labor cost? Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      The only way to give a close estimate ball park is to know location of plumbing and whether it is accessible to extend the feed and the drain, is the location 2nd story if so all plumbing would have to be exposed typically cutting wall section for extensions then repairing? Run and pitch of drain extensions are considered here. is the location 1st floor level, then it’s a snap, easier to typically access pipes from crawl or basement.,

      If 1st floor and slab foundation, that’s a different story, more walls to demo.
      Get a free estimate from you local plumber, the have the experience to give you an accurate quote.

  19. QUESTION:
    My 115 year old house is settling unevenly. The field stone foundation is intact, how can I level the house?
    The home is 1.5 stories and after installing a gutter along the east side of the house, due to a mold problem, the east side of the home has dropped and the interior floors are dramatically unlevel. A stone wall in the crawl space is the main support and the home appears to be sagging at all outside points. I have considered slowly jacking up the outside of the home, however I am concerned about damaging the exterior brickwork in the process and need some guidance in where to set the jacks and how to keep them from sinking into the soil. I know that the home has never had gutters, due to some original trim work on the eaves. The house is located in a semi arid climate in Colorado and faces south.

    • ANSWER:
      You should have a professional do the jacking and redo the foundation so it won’t settle again. It’s not a job without danger and the professional will know how to do it safely.

      After it’s been levelled, you will have to have the bricks where they have seperated repointed, again best done by a professional. But the brick work will be okay, if there is a broken brick, the mason will just replace it.

      Thankfully brick houses are the easiest to repair, if you had a frame house or ones with modern siding, it could mean major repairs to the house’s structure.

      I called a friend of mine whose old brick house (140 years old) settled and she had a fairly large crack in one of the walls. She said getting a proper foundation that is suitable for the soil conditions and one that stands up to water is a must and you need to contact a soilfoundation engineer for the foundation and he will tell you what kind of foundation is needed. Also she said that foundation has to have the ability to resist water, which field stone may not do properly. You might also need “tile work” done. She said tile work is essentially an underground drain system that keeps the earth underneath the foundation from become too wet.

      Before the house is jacked, you should have a structural engineer look at it to see what damage the jacking may cause. Sometimes they can fix some of the things needed before the house is jacked. She also said that since your house was older, the existing structural damage is much less than newer homes because they used different construction techniques that are more sturdier than what is required today.

      Lastly she said it’s best to consider it a good investment. A brick house over 100 years old that has had it’s major problems fixed in such a way that they will not occur again will increase the value of the house more than you think. She said over time the value of an old house that is structurally sound gets a large premium price compared to newer homes with the same size, in the same location. She said it’s essential that you get a soil and foundation engineer and a consult a structural engineer before any work is done. It’s money well spent. But when you sell the house, you will get a lot more back than you spent.

      When I answered your question I was using my memory of her experience, but I thought it would be best to go straight to the source of someone who has had it done.

  20. QUESTION:
    Looking for advice on a written offer I made through my real estate agent?
    I recently looked at a home that was listing through an agent. I met the seller personally and he showed me the house himself as he’s a friend of my family. I made a written offer through my own agent to the sellers listing agent just recently. The seller has not accepted my offer and his contract with his listing agent expires at the end of this month. He contacted me to see if I would be willing to wait till his contract expires and we can make a deal without our realtors to avoid paying the commissions. Is this legal and do I have any obligation to my agent now that I have put in a written offer through him? Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      When you went to an agent to look for homes and if it’s the first house sometimes people think the agent who is trying to find you your dream home works for you. That feeling is totally NOT true. You owe the agent exacty [FAQ-ANSWER]0.00

      Under the law the agent you picked and asked to find you a home actually works for the seller. The law in all 50 states is that buyers always have NO obligation to pay one cent in commission to the agent. The seller always pays 100 percent of the commision. Your friend is giving you bad advice, you already do not have to pay any commission.

      In private sales the seller dose save on commission but what they really want is for the buyer NOT to hire a lawyer to draw up the offer for the house. It’s a common scam, but it is not against the law.

      There are some legalities that you should have looked into by a lawyer before making an offer on a house and you should also always always always have your lawyer draw up the offer, not the real-estate agent. The best thing that happened to you is that the seller refused your offer. If you make an offer without any terms and conditions and it is accepted, then the house is sold, you can’t change your mind later. You own it as well as all it’s problems.

      But by hiring a lawyer to make the offer for you he can write terms and conditions on the house. Then your Lawyer has the legal right to act on your behalf and look for things you might not even know about.

      Most importantly the lawyer will write a clause in the offer that the house has to pass a building inspection by an inspector of YOUR choice. Your lawyer then writes another clause that says if the inspector finds one thing wrong and you don’t like it, then you can nullify the offer. This clause is always written with the words that says that the inspection is for YOUR benefit, not the sellers.

      Say you see the perfect house and you want to make an offer. But say you make the offer through your lawyer who writes in terms and conditions into the offer, you can save your self a lot of money and a lot of grief down the road.

      Because of the terms and conditions, the lawyer and/or your inspector could find things like the house has liens or multiple mortages on the house or other legal problems such as easements. Does the land come with the house — sometimes it doesnt.

      The building inspector will be abe to find out if there are major problems with the house: the sewer pipes are blocked by roots, the house is not constructed properly to bear the weight of the roof or the second story or the electrical wiring may have to be redone because it’s not up to code, the foundation has problems, the basement leaks and worse of all, the house is settling (half the house is sinking), all of which will require real costly repairs.

      After you get the reports from your lawyer and building inspector, then you can say the house does not meet the terms and conditions. The lawyer will write a letter that the offer is nullified and since the offer says the terms and conditions are written for your benefit, there is nothing the seller can do and you are fully protected from being sued.

      Many States have laws that allow them to inspect the wiring in older houses and the seller of the house may have already received an order to have the house rewired so it meets current code standards. An order to rewire is one of the reasons owners want to sell privately and say that you will save on commission and lawyer’s fees to write an offer. They will say to you “why pay a lawyer to write an offer and why pay a real-estate agent a commision, let’s save you the money.”

      A lot of people hire a lawyer upon closing. What they should do is hire a lawyer the minute they go house hunting. Sure you save a few hundred dollars, but it might save you many thousands of dollars down the road.

      By hiring your lawyer at the offer stage, when you find your dream home, you will know exactly what you are getting for your money. No house is without problems, but you will be reassured that you won’t find and real bad problems and nasty surprises later on.

      But to answer your question you never had any obligation to the real-estate agent at any time and yes it is legal to sell privately, but the sellers motivation may not be to save money; the odds are is that seller wants you to sign an offer not drawn up by a lawyer. That too is perfectly legal.

      What rings alarm bells for me is the words “our realtors.” Even though you picked the agent, the agent works for him, period.

  21. QUESTION:
    I have a home on cinder blocks with a cement base. The base has sunk on one side. How can I repair it.?
    The contractor poured a base then set cinder blocks on it. This part of the house is three feet off the ground. The highest elevation of the house. The area had a long dry spell and I noticed the problem in July. The soil under the house is red dirt and gravel.
    Can this be repaired by one person?

    • ANSWER:
      The “base” is actually called a footing, and should be a foot deep or more, depending on soil conditions. Normally, the first row of concrete blocks are set in the footing while the concrete is still wet. There should also be reinforcing steel (rebar) in the footing and going up through the concrete block. When the block foundation is up to the final height, the cells should have been filled with concrete (grouted).

      If the footing has sunk, the house may no longer be level. You may need a house mover to lift the house back up to the right height. But more importantly, the footing may be improperly designed or constructed. You will continue to have problems until this is first resolved.

      You should hire a structural engineer to examine your house and make recommendations. He may in turn need to have a soils laboratory run some tests. Perhaps the soil is not adequately compacted. Or, if you have freezing in the winter, maybe the footing does not go below the frost line. I could not possibly answer these questions in this forum. You need an expert. There are no shortcuts.

  22. QUESTION:
    my stairwell is sinking and causing the rest of the house on the entry floor to sink what should I do?
    I need to know if I can fix it without contractors?

    • ANSWER:
      Yikes! Sounds like you need foundation repair, definitely NOT a job for a do-it-yourselfer.

  23. QUESTION:
    Our home has a sinking foundation is it covered by home insurence?
    WE recently bought this house the ex-home owner said the cracks in the wall are due to previous house movement and he took care of the problem and the house is not moving right now this was confirmed by the house inspector too, now i got a foundation expert just to look at it and he said the house is dropping and the cost of the repair would be 30,000$ now I am afraid to go the insurence because if I go i am afraid that they would say it is a preexisting condition and they wouldnot cover it ,please help.

    • ANSWER:
      Well “foundation expert”? if he is a contractor be leary. He may know how to install a foundation and can point out the obvious defects, but does he know what the result will be of the defects?

      Consider getting yourself a structural engineer. You’ll need one anyway if you are looking for any type of settlement.

      I don’t think your insurance company will back you on this… However… if this is not listed on your disclosure form (part of your purchase agreement) then you have a grievance with the former property owner.

      No matter who is at fault, you still need to get an engineer out there to tell you if you have an issue, what is the fix. He/she has nothing to gain or lose by telling you the truth. Contractor??

      Good luck!

  24. QUESTION:
    My house is seven years old and the foundation is cracking again. Who’s responsible for fixing this now?
    The builder dug up one side under house and added more concrete footers. Everything is cracking again. I understand “settlement” cracks but just one side of the house sinks and makes the foundation and everything crack. He did the repairs about 3 years ago. My question is who is responsible for fixing this now the house is seven years old? I need to know before contacting him. My whole front porch has moved away from the house. It looks awful. If anybody knows how long the builder is responsible or am I????

    • ANSWER:
      Contact your builder again, since you’ve already had a problem earlier & he tried to correct the problem. If he refuses to help, I think I’d contact an attorney or a state consumer affairs office & find out your rights. It sounds like you have a serious situation going on with your home & need to get it corrected immediately.

  25. QUESTION:
    What would make a home not pass an FHA inspection?
    We have been pre-approved for an FHA loan and I know the home needs to be inspected and approved first. What things would break a deal? We are looking at an older home (built in 1920) that is in great condition but I am afraid because of it’s age it will not pass.

    • ANSWER:
      Basically FHA’s inspection covers safety, structure and mechanical issues with the house. While some items may seem very minute and picky, they will always fall under one of these categories.

      Safety – chipping peeling paint is a risk for someone ingesting lead based paint, no railings on stairs is a fall risk, no smoke detectors, no carbon monoxide detectors, faulty wiring, mold, etc.

      Structure – roof and foundation and siding must be sound. Flat roofs require an automatic roof certification from a roofer. Peaked roofs must not have any leaks, etc.

      Mechanicals – all major mechanicals must be in place and safely functioning – gas (furnace, stove, etc.), electric (all outlets, light switches, etc.), plumbing (toilets, showers, sinks, etc.).

      I remind all of my borrowers that the inspection is there to protect you, not to prohibit you from purchasing. I remember some borrowers who begged me to talk to the inspector to change his mind about what he put in his report about suspecting mold in the crawl space because “they knew that it was not mold, it was just dirt, and we need to close tomorrow”. I told them they did not NEED to close tomorrow, even if they need to now live in a hotel for a few days, it is best to get a mold inspection and wait. Anyway, the mold inspection came back toxic and requiring over 0,000 to clean up the house. The house was selling for ,000. My borrowers were extremely happy that I did not listen to them.

      Just because a house is old does not mean that it won’t pass. I have financed plenty of older homes with FHA financing. I will say that there probably will be something that needs to be repaired prior to a closing with an older home, but it isn’t the end of the world. You or the seller repair what they are asking for and get it reinspected and then close.

      If you are in love with a house that doesn’t look like it will pass, you can always do a 203(k) rehab loan. Ask your lender about that option.

      Let me know if you have any questions!

  26. QUESTION:
    does the landlord have to give me a key to my house?
    He never gave me any keys to the house stating that he didn’t have any and lost them long ago. I live in California. Since moving in I found out the roof leaks (pours) the foundation is cracked and sinking, there are racoons living in the walls, cannot use the heater because debris has fallen into the unit from the racoons. Water doesn’t work in the kitchen. There is no source of heat in the downstairs at all and much more. I have requested the repairs be made and he just ignores me.

    • ANSWER:
      I don’t understand – you leave all your belongings in an unlocked house every day? Why did you move in without keys? That is crazy.

      I would hire a locksmith and have the locks changed, then send him a copy if it were me. OF COURSE you have to have keys to the place you live.

      How are you allowing him to ignore you? Get in his face and tell him to make this right or you will not pay him. Also tell him that you are filing a report unless you leave his doorstep with keys and set appointments for the repairs. Remind him how difficult, time-consuming, and expensive it is to evict someone.

  27. QUESTION:
    I live in Texas. I bought my house NEW in 2000, and it now has foundation issues.?
    I recently noticed a 1/2 inch crack in the front brick from foundation to shingles. It looks like one front corner is starting to sink some causing it. I’ve heard that builders are responsible for foundation issues for 10 years. Is this true? Any suggestions before I call them? Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      Good luck! Do you live in a subdivision where the builders are still active, or is this a finished subdivision or custom home site? If the builders have “moved on”, you may have a hard time getting them to work on it, or possibly even finding them at this point.
      Texas is known for subsidence issues, especially in some of the newer neighborhoods where a LOT of dirt work has been done to get the ground level for building. Subdivisions have been created in formerly unlevel ground that may be prone to flooding, erosion, etc.
      You can get foundation repair, but it’s not cheap. Nolan Ryan is the “pitchman” for one of those companies in Texas.

  28. QUESTION:
    If I was given the opportunity to purchase a 3k square foot home for only k, but it required……..?
    But it required 96k in foundational repairs, and it also needed new cabinets, lighting, etc. Would it be ok to purchase? Why would a home need that much in foundational repairs and would it be worth the purchase of the home?

    • ANSWER:
      It sounds like the house is sinking. The earth in the area is not taking the weight and the foundation is falling apart. I think you should FORGET about it.

  29. QUESTION:
    What was housing like in roughly 900 AD?
    In Europe (Britain and France mainly)
    912 is my exact date.
    WHY the caps?
    its just the date i’m using for something i’m writing.

    • ANSWER:
      It would vary depending on where you were. Most construction was timber — few buildings other than churches were built in stone. However, it you were in an old Roman city you would find a certain amount of reuse of Roman stone buildings, often patched up, so they wouldn’t have looked very “Roman” any more. The likelihood of this depends on where you were — places like Italy and southern France tended to maintain as much continuity with Roman settlement as possible. In England, on the other hand, Roman sites were more likely to be abandoned even if the general location continued to be occupied. Anglo-Saxon London, for instance, was a short distance upstream from the ruins of Roman London, which was only reoccupied later.

      Buildings generally didn’t have foundations. The most common construction method was wattle-and-daub; you drive heavy vertical posts into the ground for the frame, then make the walls out of a kind of latticework of flexible twigs and branches (the wattle). Finally you make the whole thing as airtight as you can with clay and mud (the daub) and make a roof out of thatch. Naturally, this is all very vulnerable to being damaged by the elements and would need to be repaired, the thatch refreshed, etc., on at least an annual basis. The floor might just be dirt packed down hard, or you could lay down flat wooden planks, or flagstones if you were particularly rich.

      The layout of houses vary widely from place to place. In some areas, particularly northern Europe, you would have the “longhouse,” big rectangular structures where presumably a whole extended family with their servants and dependents all lived under one roof. One end might be partitioned off for the master family’s bedroom and the rest is a big all-purpose room. In other areas you get smaller square- or round-houses. Southern Germany has a rather distinctive pattern of fairly square houses concentrically partitioned between an inner room and outer rooms. Many areas used a byre — a part of the house partitioned off to keep domestic animals in.

      There are also “pit houses” (German “Grubenhaeuser”), which are very widespread. These were build around a pit sunk into the ground and were usually circular. They probably were not living space but rather storage or workshop buildings where the sunken floor provided a desirable cooling effect.

      Lead could be used as a roofing material for luxury buildings — again, mostly churches. I’m not sure if tile continued in use anywhere, it may have in Italy. Glass was quite rare, expensive, and only available in small pieces, so more ornamental than useful to admit light. Buildings as a whole were pretty dimly lit – you did most of your work and life in general outside anyway.

  30. QUESTION:
    The brick wall at the back of my house is sinking. don’t know where to look for someone to repair..?

    • ANSWER:
      Look for a foundation and structural repair firm.
      They repair sunken basement floors, driveways, house foundations, etc. Normally by injecting concrete beneath the existing mass to raise it back level.

  31. QUESTION:
    Floors are slanting away from central fireplace. Settling or Foundation?
    We purchased a home last year. It was built in 1926. The inspector said that the planed doors and minor cracks in the plaster were from normal settling. However, the upstairs floors are slanting away on all sides from the brick that forms the centrally located fireplace. It is very noticable. Plus, the two doors closest to the fireplace wall won’t close because they appear to need another 3/4 in planed away, on top of the 1/2 inch that’s gone already. Also, after some work on the sewer line, the contractor stated that there are no footers. They just leveled the ground and started laying brick. The basement is panelled and I don’t have complete access to the brick to check for cracks. Where I have checked, there are none. Wondering what others thought.

    • ANSWER:
      Sounds like your house has sunk over the years. All houses settle but should not sink because of a footing or other method pertaining to soil condition. With your fireplace, it has a large enough surface area of solid material to act as a footing whereas the outside walls do not have enough surface area to keep from sinking. Thats what footings are for after all. There are companies that can jack up the house and pour new foundations and footings. This is about the only way to do it the correct way. Lay a 4′ level on the floor and measure how far one end is sticking up when its level. Divide the number of feet for the length by 4′ and multiply that by how far the level stuck up to see how much of a drop it is. If your room is 20 feet long and the level is 1″ from being level then your house drops 5″. I’d definately look into some foundation repair and house jacking.

  32. QUESTION:
    Who desighned the Leaning Tower of Pisa?
    I figure this will give me the fastest answer, so does anyone know?

    • ANSWER:
      The Leaning Tower of Pisa (Italian: Torre pendente di Pisa) or simply The Tower of Pisa (La Torre di Pisa) is the campanile, or freestanding bell tower, of the cathedral of the Italian city of Pisa. It is situated behind the Cathedral and it is the third structure in Pisa’s Campo dei Miracoli (field of Miracles).

      Although intended to stand vertically, the tower began leaning to the southeast soon after the onset of construction in 1173 due to a poorly laid foundation and loose substrate that has allowed the foundation to shift direction.

      The height of the tower is 55.86 m (183.27 ft) from the ground on the lowest side and 56.70 m (186.02 ft) on the highest side. The width of the walls at the base is 4.09 m (13.42 ft) and at the top 2.48 m (8.14 ft). Its weight is estimated at 14,500 tonnes. The tower has 294 steps. The tower leans at an angle of 5.5 degrees. This may not seem a lot, but this means that the tower is 4.5 metres from where it used to stand vertically. [1]

      The Tower of Pisa was a work of art, performed in three stages over a period of about 174 years. Construction of the first floor of the white marble campanile began on August 9, 1173, a period of military success and prosperity. This first floor is surrounded by pillars with classical capitals, leaning against blind arches.

      The tower began to sink after construction progressed to the third floor. In an effort to compensate for the tilt, the engineers built higher floors with one side taller than the other. This made the tower begin lean in the other direction. Because of this, the tower is actually curved.[2]

      After a phase (1990-2001) of structural strengthening, the tower is currently undergoing gradual surface restoration, in order to repair visual damage, mostly corrosion and blackening. These are particularly strong due to the tower’s age and to its particular conditions with respect to wind and rain.[3]

      Galileo Galilei is said to have dropped two cannon balls of different masses from the tower to demonstrate that their descending speed was independent of their mass. This is considered an apocryphal tale, and the only source for it comes from Galileo’s secretary.[4]

      Benito Mussolini ordered that the tower be returned to a vertical position, so concrete was poured into its foundation. However, the result was that the tower actually sank further into the soil.[5]

      During World War II, the Allies discovered that the Nazis were using it as an observation post. A humble U.S. Army sergeant was briefly entrusted with the fate of the tower. His decision not to call in an artillery strike saved the edifice.[6]

      On February 27, 1964, the government of Italy requested aid in preventing the tower from toppling. It was however considered important to retain the current tilt, due to the vital role that this element played in promoting the tourism industry of Pisa.[7] A multinational task force of engineers, mathematicians and historians was assigned and met on the Azores islands to discuss stabilization methods. After over two decades of work on the subject, the tower was closed to the public in January 1990. While the tower was closed, the bells were removed to relieve some weight, and cables were cinched around the third level and anchored several hundred meters away. Apartments and houses in the path of the tower were vacated for safety. After a decade of corrective reconstruction and stabilization efforts, the tower was reopened to the public on December 15, 2001. It was found that the lean was increasing due to the stonework expanding and contracting each day due to the heat of sunlight. This was working in combination with the softer foundations on the lower side. Many methods were proposed to stabilize the tower, including the addition of 800 metric tons of lead counterweights to the raised end of the base.[8] The final solution to prevent the collapse of the tower was to slightly straighten the tower to a safer angle, by removing 38 m3 of soil from underneath the raised end. The tower has been declared stable for at least another 300 years.[8]

      In 1987, the tower was declared as part of the Campo dei Miracoli UNESCO World Heritage Site along with neighbouring cathedral, baptistery and cemetery.

      Geographic coordinates: 43.7231° N 10.3964° ECoordinates: 43.7231° N 10.3964° E
      Elevation of Piazza dei Miracoli: about 2 metres (6 feet, DMS)
      Height: 55.863 metres (183 ft 3 in), 8 stories
      Outer diameter of base: 15.484 m
      Inner diameter of base: 7.368 m
      Angle of slant: 5.5 degrees[9] or 4.5 m from the vertical[10]
      Weight: 14,700 tonnes
      Thickness of walls at the base: 8 ft (2.4 m)
      Total number of bells: 7, tuned to musical scale, clockwise
      1st bell: L’assunta, cast in 1654 by Giovanni Pietro Orlandi, weight 3,620 kg (7,981 lb)
      2nd bell: il Crocifisso, cast in 1572 by Vincenzo Possenti, weight 2,462 kg (5,428 lb)
      3rd bell: San Ranieri, cast in 1719-1721 by Giovanni Andrea Moreni, weight 1,448 kg (3,192 lb)
      4th bell: La Terza (1st small one), cast in 1473, weight 300 kg (661 lb)by
      5th bell: La Pasquereccia, cast in 1262 by Lotteringo, weight 1,014 kg (2,235 lb)
      6th bell: il Vespruccio (2nd small one), cast in the 14th century and again in 1501 by Nicola di Jacopo, weight 1,000 kg (2,205 lb)
      7th bell: Del Pozzetto, cast in 1606, weight 652 kg (1,437 lb)
      Steps to bell tower: 294[11]

      The movie Superman III features an evil Superman doing several “bad deeds” around the world – one of which is straightening the Leaning Tower of Pisa, played to comedic effect. The famous final scene of the film features Superman pushing the tower back to its normal inclination.
      In the Histeria! episode “The Wheel of History”, Froggo is shown attempting to push the tower into its leaning position, unsuccessfully. He soon manages to accomplish the task with the help of Archimedes (played by Chit Chatterson) and his lever.
      In the Cartoon series Futurama the leaning tower is knocked straight by Fry and Bender and then knocked back again on a joy ride in the Planet Express Ship.
      In the Disney movie Sky High, the very beginning shows Will Stronghold’s superhero mom getting “take out” pizza from Italy. In one shot of the comic strip, she is seen with a pizza box, flying past the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
      In the Bartimaeus Trilogy, the djinni Bartimaeus claims that he helped build the Tower of Pisa, but his advice to the archiects was ignored and that is the reason that it leans.
      On a Tool Time segment on Home Improvement, Tim Taylor shows a picture of the tower as an example of how men create and build masterpieces with tools. His assistant Al Borland then goes on to say that the tower is actually an example of a mistake by mankind.
      In a flashback in an episode Rocko’s Modern Life, it is shown an ancestor of Heffer was standing at a side of the tower, causing the tower to lean.
      In Disney’s A Goofy Movie, Max’s friend Bobby (Pauly Shore) makes a reference to the tower with Eazy Cheeze that he piled in his hand and says “look, it’s the leaning tower of cheesa.”
      In MTV’s Viva La Bam, Bam visits the tower and his uncle, Don Vito, who calls it “The Leaning Tower of Pizza” and says there is a pizza shop at the bottom of the tower . He then says in a hysterical voice that the whole town was named after pizza.
      In the Disney movie the Return of Jafar, the Genie’s song ‘Nothing in the world’ refers to the Leaning Tower of Pisa where, comically, the Genie is seen cycling into the tower, which falls on top of him.
      In Janet Jackson’s music video “Runaway”, she appears at the top of the tower.
      In Niles, Illinois, USA there is a replica which was bought by a very wealthy man as decoration for his front yard. One which included roman and greek statues, swimming pools, and reflection ponds.

  33. QUESTION:
    What does it mean that a “roof is bowing”? what causes it? any remedies?
    I am also having foundation problems with part sinking, could this be a cause or are they likely to be independent of each other

    Thanks for any help

    • ANSWER:
      The foundation settling is likely the cause, or part of the cause of the roof bowing. This is a serious problem at both levels ( pardon the pun! ). The roof could be bowing because the rafters are inadequate, either in their number of rafters installed or their size of lumber used. The foundation problem could also be to blame if the structure is being pulled off center in one direction. You didn’t say, but I hope this problem is with an out building and not the house itself. If it indeed is the house, you need to get some professional help in there right away to determine the cause and a solution. The foundation would be the place to start. They’d have to test the soil to make sure it is able to handle the weight of a structure. They need to determine why the foundation is sinking in one area, and if there’s a possibility of the problem getting worse in the future. If the soil is adequate, then it will have to be determined how to best “jack” up the foundation back to a point of being level and stabilizing the area. Once this has been done, then you can turn your attention to the roof that is bowed. Make sure that you have proper drainage from your downspouts to get rain water away from the foundation. This is the problem many times when soil is being washed away from a foundation! The roof repair will be simple to handle as compared to the foundation repair. Once again, a contractor you trust can repair the bowed roof for you. There may be more than one option for the roof repair, depending on how much you want to spend. There’s an old saying that a house isn’t any better than the foundation it’s built on! Unfortunately, you’re finding that out first hand! Hope everything turns out okay. Don’t be afraid to ask questions about either project and get more than one estimate for the work to be done. If you have a friend that is knowledgeable in construction methods, seek their advice. The cheapest repair isn’t always the best way to go. The repairs will likely depend on your financial status during this time. good luck and I hope any project goes well!

  34. QUESTION:
    Do most homes have some amount of “settlement?”?
    My home is 50 years. I have seen 2 tiny verticle cracks.

    • ANSWER:
      We dwell on a living planet….
      Yes most houses “settle” after construction, …. and they continue to rise and fall with the expansion of the ground they are built on….
      Depending on soil types, differing soil/clay/rock mixtures and of course the amount of moisture (water) they contain…..
      If you experience a drought (dry), then the soil/clay shrinks, causing the buildings foundations to sink with the ground…
      If you have heavy rain then the soil/clay swells and the building rises also…
      When and if you have uneven moisture in the location of the buildings foundations, then rise and fall are uneven and great stress is placed on the foundations which sometimes crack and subsiquently cause disturbance in the structure….
      cracks are the stress signs of this occurrance…. nearly always this is the result of uneven moisture in the sub soil…
      Some ways of limitting this are NOT to have garden beds at or near the perimeter of the building (near the foundation), as watering these can cause uneven soil moisture…
      Not to let damaged gutters/downpipes persist… get them repaired asap….
      Do NOT grow large rooted trees adjacent to buildings….the root system can cause major foundation faults…
      Drainage and water pipes if leaking are also bad news….
      What a great number of buildings lack is a correctly formed and constructed drainage system…. that is ground water drainage…..this is a major consideration in construction and it is quite often overlooked….. especially by owner builders…
      hope this is useful….
      later, Jim (Contract Builder for 34 years )

  35. QUESTION:
    What is the source of the cliche’ “fortune favors the foolish”?

    • ANSWER:
      The title of the story is taken from a running joke in the movie “The Gay Divorcee”- A Fred Astaire/Ginger Rogers musical RKO Studios – 1934
      ——————————————–

      FORTUNE FAVORS THE FOOLISH
      ACT I

      Scene:

      Interior of Macgyver’s loft – kitchen area
      Macgyver lays sprawled on his back, underneath the kitchen sink. He has just returned home after completing yet another dangerous assignment for the Phoenix Foundation, and finds a note from his son Sam. To his dismay, Sam has gone to Central America to cover a particularly hairy-sounding news story. Mac is clearly unhappy as he monkeys with the sink’s drain pipe.
      Macgyver: – muses to himself

      Oh, well – you have to give Sam the freedom to explore and define his own destiny. I just wish he hadn’t inherited so much of his parents’ traits: insatiable curiosity, an unwavering desire for justice, and a slightly reckless restiveness. Even if he has the right to make his own choices – doesn’t mean that I don’t worry about him.
      With a sigh, Mac returns his attention to the second, and more minor cause of his bad mood – the pipe under the kitchen sink.

      Macgyver: – to himself
      I can’t believe that I’ve just returned from an assignment that involved defeating laser sensors, deadly holographic images, supercyber-generated explosives, and a computer virus that could infect systems world-wide – and I get home and my drainpipe is leaking. There must be an ironic joke in this somewhere – just don’t get it at the moment. As Mac completes his repairs, and is securing the pipe – the telephone rings. Hauling himself up from under the sink, he is befuddled for a moment. He can’t see the phone – anywhere. Following the sound of the ringer, Mac finally finds the phone under a pile of clothes and sports gear.

      Macgyver: – to himself
      This place could use a good cleaning. Guess that’s what you get from having two bachelors living together………

      Mac: – into the phone
      Helloooooo……

      From the Receiver: – a slightly hysterical, familiar voice
      Mac! It’s Jack Dalton! I need your help Macgyver! There’s this treasure in an old haunted house, that I need your help to………

      Macgyver: – cutting Jack off
      Hold it, Jack! I guess the words ‘hello and how are you’ have lost all meaning for you – but SLOW DOWN so that I can at least pretend to understand this newest folly of of yours.

      Jack: – wounded tone
      Mac – I am cut to the quick. And how are you, by the way? Longtime no see. How was the ‘In Search of America’ road- trip with your bambino? Good I hope.

      Macgyver:
      I’m fine, Jack – and the trip with Sam was great. we……
      Jack: – cutting Mac off
      So much for idle chit-chat, my boy. There is treasure to be found – fortunes to be made – empires to be built. But I need a little help to do it, Mac. Say that you’ll help me. Please?
      Mac: – in a sardonic tone, rolling his eyes
      You are still the same incurable idealist that you’ve always been, Jack – I guess that some things never change. But you have to understand that I’ve just gotten back from a pretty rough assignment. After I get some sleep – all I want to do is get some fresh air a pleasant exercise – work out the kinks and the cobwebs. Care to join me on a cross-country bicycle trip?
      Jack: – prissy distaste in his voice
      Bicycle trip? You know that I never indulge in exercise if I can help it. Besides, I’m serious, Mac. There is this old house up on Rt. 33 north of the town of Devil’s Den. We can take the I-5 to Lost Hills…don’t you just love the names of these small towns…then Rt 46 to 33 and then north…..it’s about a 4 hour drive from L.A.
      Macgyver:
      Drive?!?! Why can’t you fly us there? Oh no, I can’t believe that I ‘m even asking you that. I have no intention of getting involved in this!
      Jack: – hesitantly
      Ummmm…Mac, I can’t fly us there because……
      Mac: – expectantly sarcastic
      Because why, Jack?
      Jack:
      Because I lost the plane in a poker game. I put it up for collateral – I had a full house, jacks high…I was sure it was the winning hand. But the guy I bet against – a man devoid of any redeeming characteristics, by the way – also had a full house – with aces high. I think that he was cheating, Mac. I’d bet my life on it.
      Macgyver: – horrified
      You gambled away your LIVLIEHOOD in a poker game! I cannot believe you took a chance like that – no matter what your hand. Jack, when are you going to learn?
      Jack: – suddenly soberly serious
      I did learn my lesson from that poker game, Mac. Losing my plane, with it’s meager income has really grounded me in more ways than one. My vocation – Hell it’s my avocation, too…is gone, and I’m flat-broke. Mac – I really need your help to try and get my life back on track. I’m desperate. I assure you that this ‘folly’ of mine is completely legal, and doesn’t involve any international conspiracies or hit men. I need your help.
      Macgyver: – sympathetically
      It’s o.k., Jack. I will help you find a way out of this mess. That is what friends are for. Now, me tell more about this house, and the treasure – and what we are up against – so that I’ll have some idea of what tools and equipment we’ll need.
      Jack:
      You’re the greatest Macgyver. Let me spin for you a fascinating tale about the old Smith House……..By the way, what time are you picking me up tomorrow? My car was repossessed, so you’ll have to drive……
      Macgyver: – with a sickly smile
      Great Jack…just great…….

  36. QUESTION:
    My house’s foundation is sinking in Downey,CA. Can our Earthquake policy cover it?
    We bought a home in downey ca in 2000’s not knowing that the houses around were built on a landfil years back. In 1992 a nearby house sank and the then property owner fought with the city of Downey to have them repair the foundation. Downey only paid half of the repair cost. This community was built in the 70’s. We were wondering if our Earthquake policy would cover it or if the city of Downey is liable for not having built to code? These is a very costly ordeal as anyone can imagine

    • ANSWER:
      The CITY didn’t build not up to code, the BUILDER is the one who built not up to code. You can sue them for the code violations.

      Earthquake coverage doesn’t cover earth shifting, moving, or settling.

  37. QUESTION:
    Cement-block foundation, steer clear?
    If you were buying an older home with Cement-block foundation would you avoid it? Hubby says it is a really bad type of foundation and should be avoided.

    True?

    • ANSWER:
      We JUST had our foundation repaired – the culprit was a large oak tree in the front yard. The roots were leaching water from the soil under the house, causing our dining room to sink.

      If you’re considering buying that kind of house, it’s definitely worth the money to get a professional to come out and look at it before you buy it. I wish we had! Most estimates are completely free.

      We also have an irrigation system to keep the soil moist (dry soil = sinking) and we’re also going to install a tree shield (0) to prevent the oak tree’s roots from going under the house.

      If the house is built on pretty solid ground (not a lot of filler dirt) it probably won’t be an issue.

  38. QUESTION:
    dose anyone else notice that people plant southern magnolia really close to their homes?i thought that is ?
    suppose to be dangerous for the foundation of the home

    i have seen some three feet away from the house
    but i alos notice that most of those homes are on cynder blocks is it okay to place asouthern magnolia close to the home its on cynder blocks the home is on cynder blocks
    http://pics.davesgarden.com/pics/mosquitoflats_1105587309_782.jpg

    • ANSWER:
      Planting a tree that would grow that large isn’t safe near any home. Cynder (cement) blocks make no difference. Tree roots try to grow through your foundation and will split any kind that is used. It’s not just magnolia trees but anything that gets large roots like it.

      My dad has been a building contractor for decades in Michigan and Florida and this is one of his pet peves (planting large trees close to your home). Foundations are extremely expensive to fix. Better to spend the money on AC then have to repair your foundation later. Plenty of other plants that smell good when they bloom (Brugmansias are some of my favorite.. 4O’Clocks smell dang good too).
      ——
      Meanolmaw:”if tthe house is up on blocks, it has no foundation, so there’s nothing for the tree roots to bother…..”
      —–
      It is still called the foundation. From WIkitionary:”Foundation (engineering), the portion of a building’s structure that transfers the weight of the building into the ground strata.”

      But if the house is actually UP on blocks it PROBABLY won’t hurt anything (the roots can still heave up and move the supports).. an actual house made of cynder blocks has the same foundation as a house made of wood (“stick-built”). You have a stem wall then you either have a slab or the house is on a hanging system on the stem wall (usually you have a crawlspace under these).. if the stem wall gets broken it can’t hold as much weight and can begin to sink.. you will start to see cracks and breaks in your drywall when this happens.

  39. QUESTION:
    do you know how much it cost to repair a sinking floor in a old house?

    • ANSWER:
      That depends on what’s causing the floor to sink. If you have a cracked floor joist or two, you might be able to jack the floor up and put a couple of 2 by 10s on either side of the damaged joists. Then you may have just 0 or so into the cost of wood, renting a jack, etc. But if the foundation under a load-bearing wall is damaged, you may have to add a couple of zeroes to the end of that cost.

      You need an experienced builder to look at the problem, and figure out WHY the floor is sinking, before you can work out a cost.

  40. QUESTION:
    Cracked Plaster – repair or replace?
    Hi

    When we moved into our house and stripped the wallpaper in the lounge, we found blown plaster.

    We paid a lot of money to have the wall re-plastered by a builder, who also papered,painted and finished off the job. About 3 weeks afterwards, the plaster started to crack on the surface (pretty large and deep). Plus, I have also heard what sounds like plaster crumbling/falling behind the surface.

    This happened last November and the builder has finally agreed to come round and have a look at it. We have contacted him weekly since it happened.

    Do you think that it will simply be a case of him re-painting over the cracks or is more substantial work required? Plus, does he have a right to charge us for this?

    Thanks in advance!

    • ANSWER:
      paint wont fix your problem ! was there any warranty with the work he did ? if so you shouldnt have to pay! however if it has only been 6 months since you got it done you may have a more serious problem on your hands! your foundation may be sinking somewhere ! when you do get around to redoing the room again i would consider using sheet rock instead of plaster ! it is alot easier to repair the cracks that do tend to recur!

  41. QUESTION:
    Home inspection?
    Just wondering what the major issues are that we should be checking out on a house that we are thinking about purchasing. Home inspection list would be helpful! Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Here ya go:

      General
      Any major changes to the property?

      Agreed upon modifications or repairs completed?

      Receipts/warranties/guarantees provided by repair contractors?

      Pest control clearance provided?

      Roofing
      Indications of roof leakage?

      Gutters and downspouts secure?

      Signs of roof surface, flashings, vent or chimney damage?

      Exterior
      Evidence of cracks, paint peeling or other visible defects?

      Trip hazards, cracking in the walkways, driveway or steps?

      Plants/vegetation growing on the exterior of the home?

      Stairway, deck, porch and other railings secure?

      Cracks or indications of retaining wall failure?

      Signs of inadequate surface drainage?

      Openings into the building at trim, flashings, chimneys, etc.?

      Signs of soil movement in areas around perimeter of the home?

      Basement
      Are all accessible areas dry?

      Are there any indications of current or prior water damage?

      If there is a sump pump, is it operational?

      Indications of foundation cracking or movement?

      Musty odors or signs of mold or mildew?

      Interior
      Stains, cracks or damage to interior walls, ceilings or floors

      Cracked or broken windows?

      Windows and window latches operate properly?

      Doors and door latches operate properly?

      Stains or leaks at kitchen, bathroom or laundry sinks?

      Interior staircases have safe, secure handrails?

      Smoke alarms in hallways, on each floor, in each bedroom?

      Kitchen and Bathrooms
      Are all appliances functional?

      Cabinets, countertops, sinks or floors damaged?

      Water Pressure is ok at sinks, shower and tub spout?

      Any sign of water leaks under sinks?

      Are all ceramic tile floors and wainscoting intact and well grouted?

      Garage
      Garage door functional?

      Fire-rated doors provided at all interior entrances?

      Automatic door opener reverse properly?

      Fire-rated surfaces at house walls, attic and sub floor areas?

      Indications of dampness or mildew?

      Electrical
      All light fixtures operational?

      All electrical outlets functional?

      All smoke detectors provided and functional?

      Doorbell operational?

      GFCI outlets in kitchen, bathrooms, exterior and garage?

      GFCI devices functional?

      Any visible dangling or exposed wiring?

      Extension, lamp cord, or zip cord used as permanent wiring?

      Plumbing
      Adequate water flow at fixtures and drains?

      Faucet or drain pipe leaks?

      Adequate water pressure?

      Ample hot water provided?

      Clothes washer and dryer functional?

      Water heater adequately strapped?

      Water heater has popper pressure/temperature relief?

      Heating/Cooling
      System functional?

      Serviced recently?

      Is there adequate heat/cooling distribution to each room?

      Are there large differences in temperature between different rooms?

      Fireplace
      Safety check on older fireplaces and chimneys?

      Dampers operational?

      Fire boxes need repair?

      Spark arrestor and rain cap installed?

      Further, I would visit the house on a rainy day of you can. Look for water puddles on the lot, any drainage concerns, and see if you can get in the attic as well. Look for any truss or sheathing discoloration – anything black is not good – that is an indicator of mold.

      Good luck!

  42. QUESTION:
    Can I claim foundation damage caused by tree roots on my insurance, becuz I moved in this house 3 yrs ago …?
    This house was built in the year 2000 and I just moved in three years ago and now I noticed that my foundation has sinked like 1 inch towards the front left.
    I was wondering if u guys can help me by letting me know if I can use my insurance claim to repair it as this was caused by the tree roots.

    • ANSWER:
      Sorry there would be no insurance coverage for a foundation that is sinking. The standard HO3 policy specifically excludes “Settling, shrinking, bulging or expansion, including resultant cracking, of bulkheads, pavements, patios, footings, foundations, walls, floors, roof or ceilings.”

      That being said, you don’t mention what state you reside in. Some states mandate that insurers cover sinkhole collapse coverage. Florida insurers, for example, are required to offer catastrophic ground cover collapse includes geological activity resulting in the following:

      •Abrupt loss of ground cover
      •A depression in the ground clearly visible to the naked eye
      •Structural damage to the building, including the foundation
      •Government condemnation of the insured structure and an order to vacate the premises

      By the express terms of the coverage, catastrophic ground cover collapse only covers damages when the insured property is condemned by a governmental agency and ordered vacated.

      Even if you bought the coverage (if it was available) It doesn’t seem that your problem fits the requirements for coverage.

      Don’t take my word for it. If I were you, I would ask your insurance agent but understand that it is highly unlikely that there would be coverage.

  43. QUESTION:
    Advise on home foundation?
    I had a couple of foundation repair companies come out and look at my home that is on concrete slab and they told me the front and left side of the house needs to be lifted with peers. What I want to know is if the house is not lifted all the way around will the sides that do not have peers give one day?

    • ANSWER:
      What’s happened is that the soil base below the area of the slab that’s sunk has been compromised.

      Search in your area for a contractor that performs a process called hydro-jacking, which entails injecting hydraulic cement below the slab to level the house. This can be done without trenching below grade to install piers, is less labor-intensive and costs less than traditional pier installation.

      Good luck.

  44. QUESTION:
    Can i fit my bilge pump. Will it effect boat? Will she sink??
    I have a pilot 590 pleasure boat and have just bought a automatic bilge pump for. Getting sick of bailing!

    The problem i face is i need to cut into the deck to sink the pump into a well of water. However for obvious reasons im a bit aprehensive of doing this. There is no natural sunk in bits where i can fit it, the deck currently is completely flat. So i need to cut the deck and make a sink, where the water will naturally gather.

    The boat is a twin cathedrall hull and to me there is loads of room between the deck and the outer skin to cut a small hole/sink into the deck.

    It still goes against the grain and i dont want to do it! Some advice on if i should go ahead or not please!

    Experienced boat owners/fishermen/boat builders/marine engineers only please.
    This is rain water. ( I live in the far north of scotland) I can only manage to get down to the boat/harbour every few days as i live a bit away and most of the time when i go she has an inch of water on deck. Welly Boots plastic bailer and mop, is whats been used up till now. But would like something automated the bilge pump i bought has a float switch installed.

    No leak on boat and would like to keep it that way
    Hey again everyone,

    Deck level is basically on water level so i think drilling holes in the side of her is out of the question!!
    Thanks for the idea though.

    • ANSWER:
      I am not sure how, as you say, a “deck” can be retaining water. As ‘decks’ always drain overboard – one of their main functions is to keep the rain out! It is why they have a camber.

      Perhaps you refer to the sole. Though, again, you do not specify whether your problem is with the cockpit or cabin sole – or indeed, if it is an open boat.

      I shall assume it is an open type with a flat, single-level sole, over a foam filled buoyancy chamber (at least in the ‘hulls’).

      There should really be no need to cut a hole – ie: a sump, if you use an in-line pump and a length of hose with a low profile ‘strum-box’ on the end.The strum-box gives the intake end of the hose a wider, lower profile so that it can pick up from much shallower water; as well as providing a crude filter against leaves etc.

      Put the float switch as near to the intake as possible, and position both at the point of deepest water. You can ‘trim’ the vessel, by judicious positioning of any gear (e.g: anchor & chain, etc) in order to create a ‘deepest’ point.

      The most simple arrangement for the outlet hose, obviously, is just to lash it over the gunwale. but for a more professional set-up, use a hole-saw to cut exactly the right diameter hole to take a skin fitting. It needs to be of a type with a smooth flange outboard, and a hose spigot and back-nut inboard. And it’s vital to use exactly the right size to fit the hose: the same size as the pump spigot in other words. Always secure the hose with jubilee (hose) clips.

      Drill the outlet hole a good way above the load water line. And use a suitable mastic beneath the flange and back-nut to protect the GRP from water.

      If the hull is double-skinned all the way up to the gunwale, it will probably not be a very large cavity. Use a skin fitting with a long thread so that it can span the gap and take care not to over-tighten the back-nut and deflect the hull-side.

      A ‘submersible’ pump would not really be suitable for a flat bilge/sole precisely because of the need to create a sump – they need fairly deep water.

      But if this is your chosen arrangement and you need to make the sump into the buoyancy foam, cut the inner skin only (obviously) using either a very large hole-saw, (You can hire them – they are expensive to buy) big enough to house the pump and switch and, very important: set the centre-bit in the shallow position so that it does not penetrate deeper than the teeth of the saw (You don’t want a quarter-inch hole from the pilot bit through the outer skin!). Alternatively, use a hand-held ‘pad-saw’ and cut a square/rectangular hole. (Remember, it has got to be able to house the switch as well as the pump). Try to locate the sump where the water tends to be at its deepest anyway, if this is not totally inconvenient from a practical point of view. And it will almost certainly have to be over one or other of the cathedral hulls as the middle would have no depth or thickness for the purpose.

      Remove the foam with a sharp chisel or other suitable cutter down to the outer skin, or just deep enough to house the pump and switch, taking care not to create any cavities that go off under the perimeter of the hole. The reason for this is because apart from appearing unsightly, the surface thus formed in the foam will be your foundation for finishing off with a layer or two of chop-strand glassfibre matting and polyester resin – get a small ‘repair’ kit from a chandlery, prime the foam well with the resin, lay the glass – having prepared it first while everything is clean and dry, and then ‘wet it out’ with a gentle stabbing action using a 50mm resin brush. Then finish with a coat of suitable paint.

      Note: using automatic bilge pumps on float-switches to keep rainwater out of boats is notorious for flattening batteries. So be sure and take appropriate steps to ensure your battery is regularly charged. A good boat cover is nearly always better!

  45. QUESTION:
    wall mounted toilet leaking methane gas?
    Hi!
    I have an older 70’s model wall mounted toilet in a half bath in my basement and when we drain our tub or dishwasher upstairs we get a very strong rotten egg / methane smell downstairs..
    Besides the wax/sponge ring from the toilet what could be the other causes before I attempt replacing the ring because the toilet is not leaking water..Any comments would be greatly apppreciated…Thanks in advance.
    I have been in the house for two years this winter and it is always worse when its cold?..I also have a septic that has been pumped and there is no visible cracks in my foundation.The home is also a split level with no floor drains…
    Lori

    • ANSWER:
      The first thing is to narrow down the possibilities. You said half bath, so I’m assuming there’s a sink downstairs, is there also a laundry tub, in any case plug them off with a test plug. If the smell goes away, there’s your culprit. Usually when you get sewer gas from flushing a large quantity of water, the trap water is being sucked out by the suction it produces. Have someone downstairs to watch while you run the water to see if you get motion in the trap of the toilet. If none of this is happening, you must search for a crack in your vent line. If anyone can go on the roof safely, put a hose in the vent and see if anything leaks. The fix for a sink is to put a flapper check valve in the drain leading to the sink, like the one’s used on sump pumps. For the vent, if it’s cast iron, a cheap repair is fiberglass repair kit. Just get everyone out of the house when you do it because of the epoxy smell. Good Luck!

  46. QUESTION:
    sale or remodel my house?
    i would like to remodel a home i inherited and rent it out on section 8. it s a 3br 2ba 1car garage. it tax appraised at k, i think i could sale for at least . it does need work, so at what amount should i consider saling it? i know it needs foundation repair, badly.each room needs work. bedrooms need minor sheetrock repair, painting, and closet doors. bathrooms need door, new faucets, minor sheetrock repair, and toilets. kitchen needs minor sheetrock repair, cabinets, sink, faucets. diningroom needs minor sheetrock repair as well as living room. most sheetrock repair is a result of bad foundation so the have cracks on walls. i would also believe house needs re insulating. roof needs repair, but i believe insurance company will repair that. at what amount would i be better off just saling house? the house is currently paid for. or does anyone know of any home repair programs that may help or grants i may apply for? any other advice is appreciated, thanks.

    • ANSWER:

  47. QUESTION:
    house is sinking, am i covered by farmers insurance?

    • ANSWER:
      Settling and earth movement are both excluded under the standard homeowners policy.

      If you have an earthquake endorsement and the sinking is caused by an earthquake, land shock waves, tremors associated w/ volcanic eruption – you may have coverage.

      However, if you are in the south east where the drought is going on – The drought has caused shifting of foundations – this has been seen in slab built homes and crawl space homes. If this is the cause, it will not be covered.

      You would need to call a foundation repair company and have them give you a quote to repair. They usually come in and put piers under the ground to support the home. It can be very expensive. However, if the house eventually collapses because of the foundation problems – that will not be covered either so ignoring the problem is not a good idea.

      **not legal advice **

  48. QUESTION:
    1″ Crack in garage corner of foundation.?
    I went in the garage and can see right through the crack. It’s about 1″ and goes completely through. I’ve lived in the house for 1 year and there are no signs of cracking in the living/dining room which is above the garage. Also no water leakage. Can this be fixed? Any idea on cost?
    The house is 15 years old. I don’t know how the inspector missed it. There isn’t a basement under it so I guess it’s a slab

    • ANSWER:
      It’s possible you have a small sink hole under the corner of the garage! Dig down in the corner, and check for a cavity under the corner. If there is one, fill it with 3/4 clear crushed stone, and pack it in. Next, go to your local building supply dealer, and they will show you the various concrete repair products you will need to plug up the crack and seal the foundation.

  49. QUESTION:
    How to repair sinking house foundation?
    My mom’s house is built on a concrete slab (no basement or crawl space). We’ve noticed for quite a few years now, that around the perimeter of the inside of the house, there is about a 1 to 1 1/2 inch ‘ledge’. I diagnosed it as a sinking foundation.

    We had a contractor out (he was extremely cocky), and he confirmed, with a ,000 price tag to have the house pumped up (approx. 17 plugs). My mom was angry with this guy’s attitude, and now won’t have any work done until she has an engineer confirm what’s already been said.

    I’m getting desperate here! The chimney is pulling away from the house, one of the exterior walls is starting to bow. The walls are cracking, and one can only imagine what’s going on with the ceilings–they’re all suspended. Selling the house for what the land is worth is NOT an option. This needs to get fixed-the right way-and I need some advice. What kind of an engineer do I look for? How much ‘should’ this cost? Any other ideas?

    • ANSWER:
      Depending on what your soil conditions are this could be expensive to fix. Unless bedrock is within a few feet of the surface it could cost at least ,000.00.

      You don’t say what your location or square footage is so I will answer in general terms.

      It isn’t unusual to see perimeter and loadbearing footings settle more than the floor. The buildings weight is concentrated at these places. If the foundation is weak then the footings will plunge leaving the floor higher, usually a crack appears around the perimeter at the walls.

      If new piers are improperly placed on the same inadequate foundation (for example not deep enough) the new piers only add weight to the structure. You could spend a lot of money and only make things worse.

      Your mom has good instincts. You should contact a “structural engineer”. The cost to repair the resulting damage to the structure if allowed to progress could be major.

      There should be a geo-technical or soils report done to determine the soil conditions and depth of suitable foundation.

      Based on the soils report the structural engineer can draw up plans to do the job properly.

      good luck

  50. QUESTION:
    doing your own car repair?
    in this tough economy time, is it good to do your own car repair?

    • ANSWER:
      Let me start with a story. Several months ago a pipe burst under the main bathroom in our home. I decided I could approach this and repair the pipe and reroute it so that it no longer runs under the foundation of the house. 2 weeks into it and I had a huge hole in the wall where I decided to tap on to the hot water pipe. And we had no hot water in the house. I had also broken the vanity around the main bathroom sink. I finally called a plumber who came out and re routed the pipe through the attic in one day. He charged me 0. I then had to call a general contractor to come repair the hole in my wall and install a new vanity. Another 0. If I had called the plumber in the beginning I would have only spent 0 and had it repaired that day. And my wife would have been much happier.

      The point of my story? I am a mechanic. Not a plumber. I did more damage to my home by not knowing what I was doing.

      If the car you are talking about repairing is your main form of transportation, the family car so to speak, then no I would not attempt to learn how to repair my own car on that one. You could end up doing greater damage and costing yourself more money in the long run. And you could end up having a lot of down time. You want to keep your wife happy? LEAVE THE CAR ALONE! Trust me on this one.

      If it is a secondary car, then I would certainly give it a shot if I wanted to learn how to fix cars.

      I do see your point. When money is tight, we do all we can to save some dollars. Wandering into the unkown is not a good way to do it.

sinking house foundation repairs

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