Commercial Building Foundation Repair

♦ December 6, 2012 ♦ Leave Your Comment

Frequently Asked Questions

QUESTION:
How do I repair cracks in a granite foundation?
I have granite walls in my 110 year old commercial building. How and what do I use to seal the cracks? And yes water does get through the cracks into my basement.
- ANSWER:
  to repair cracks in granite you will need a special chemical hoaning mixture to buy this you have to have a flooring business or have extensive knowledge of floors hire someone is your best bet bc granite is so hard to get right yet so easy to mess up!
QUESTION:
Can/how you repair expansion gaps in the seam of a manufactured home?
We are thinking about buying a manufactured home set on a foundation. When looking at the house for the first time the owner showed us these gaps (max 1/4in) in the interior walls and ceilings of the home. He says they completely seal up in the summer time and are unnoticeable. Do I need to be worried about this when buying the home, and is there some sort of permanant fix?
- ANSWER:
  Not that I like manufacture homes myself but the owner is correct expansion is required for these homes and should not be wider than 1/4″ for natrual expansion and contraction Concrete, wood, cmu block all these houses or buildings have expansion controll. I do inspection for commercial buildings and if there not in its a problem. This allows for the material to breath. If you look in your lowes or home depot or any expose block building you will see a cap between wall expansion for this very reason. Concrete floor will be section out or saw cut for natrual expansion and contraction to prevent any structural damge. And the reason you dont see this in other homes is they are built onsite and are concealed at that point buy siding etc.
QUESTION:
Do I require planning permission to replace an existing building in bad repair?
I own a commercial property in Scotland which has a run down storage shed at the rear made of timber and corrugated iron. I want to remove this and use the existing foundations to build a wooden bunkhouse. Can anyone advise me as to what planning permission I need? The planning office are being very unhelpful
- ANSWER:
  Watson says “Sherlock, what is your opinion”?
  
  My brother, we are thousands of miles apart, but one thing is certain, when the building officials are unhelpful, plan on doing everything by the book.
  
  Draw up plans, where the storage unit (it is now a storage unit) will be in perspective to the property lines. This perspective should be on a plot plan drawn to 1/20th scale. A recorded survey copy modified to show the new storage shed on it works great here.
  
  Many cities, towns & counties require such prior to applying for a building permit when a storage shed exceeds 144 SF (12×12). This is even if it’s not on a permanent foundation.
  
  Once approval is granted, build as if it is a storage shed, then make the modifications toward conversion to your bunkhouse, seek the appropriate approval (which will be granted) and move on to the next project.
  
  You’re being tested here, so be a good citizen & neighbor, respect their authority, be humble & give them what they want. In turn, you’ll get what you want.
QUESTION:
Post-tension or steel-rebar foundation for a home?
We are considering building a new home in the Dallas,Texas area. The builder uses post-tension foundation versus the steel rebar foundation that we currently have in our Dallas home. I have read both pro and con articles for both sides of this argument. I would like to know what type of foundation is better for this area. Anyone that can shed some light on this issue would be greatly appreciated. I would rather find out on this side of building a home than have expensive foundation repairs after the home is built.
- ANSWER:
  I have a friend who has a good bit of commercial rental property in and around Tyler, Tx. He says he has never had a cracked slab when you has used post tensioned slabs.
  
  He built a home for his daughter just down the street from me and that is what he used there.
QUESTION:
I cant seem to get rid of the musty smell in my basement?
I run my daycare in my basement and I use a dehumidifier which works some but also heats the rooms up. Does anyone have any suggestions?
- ANSWER:
  You’re not going to to like the answer for this problem, because you use the basement for your daycare business. The musty odor is probably caused by mold and mildew in some parts of the basement. This mold and mildew is what’s likely causing the odor you smell. Unfortunately the only good cure is to remove everything possible form the basement like carpeting, furniture, curtains, toys and everything else that isn’t attached to the floor or walls. Choose a sunny day with low humidity and get everything outside into the sun to kill any mold/mildew spores. “Beat” the carpet to remove the dust and allergens from the carpeting. If it’s not too heavy, hang it on a clothes line for the best dust removal. You can use a proper commercial cleaning spray that contains bleach to wipe toys, books, and most other items you had in the basement. Once you’ve cleared out your basement, sweep or vacuum the floors and use a dry scrub to get rid of accumulated dust. You should then use a solution of 3/4 chlorine bleach to a gallon of water to mop up the floors and wash the walls. Let it sit for five minutes and give it a rinse with cold water. Let dry and help the drying process by mopping with a dry mop and having a fan circulate the air in your basement. Make sure that you scrub the walls, cornices and corners very well! You’re not just cleaning out the basement but killing the mildew that’s been growing in your basement. Check the drainage or your basement pipes for condensation. When too much condensation builds up in the pipes, it will drip down your basement floor or run down the pipes and stay there. With the condensation comes the musty basement smell. Prevent condensation from building up by wrapping pipe insulation around your basement pipes. The rainy season can also cause a buildup of moisture, so make sure that the ground slopes away from the foundations of your house and that the downspouts of the house extends six feet or more away from your house. Leaking pipes is also another problem that you can run into. Repair any leaks you find in the basement. You indicated that you already operate a dehumidifier in the basement. Make sure it’s the proper size and is working as it should. High humidity is what makes molds and mildew grow and spread rapidly. Providing more ventilation in your basement will also help. Installing cross-ventilation that connects your basement with the ventilation system in other parts of your house is another way to prevent humidity and stagnant air. A simpler solution could be creating windows or installing air vent fans in your basement. Condensation can build up on the basement walls. There are many causes for condensation on the walls, such as the structure of the house, the climate, the make of the walls, the drainage system and possibly even the activities of the children during the day. Any cracks in the walls that weep water should be repaired. The walls can be cleaned with “TSP” ( Trisodium – Phosphate ) or its equivalent, and then dried and sealed with a latex concrete sealer if desired. If there is any area up high, ( out of the reach of children ), you could scatter some charcoal briquettes to absorb moisture. This is a lot of work and can be accomplished within a reasonable time period with some help. More time is involved than expense, unless there are problems with the floor or walls. Hope this sheds some light on fixing this “odor” problem in your basement.
QUESTION:
what are some economic activities of virginia?
what are some economic activities that they have in virginia.
what are some stuff they grow, manufacter, or any service they mainly do in virginia. it is for a project im doin
- ANSWER:
  The main activities of Virginia are:
  Agriculture: Cattle, poultry, dairy products, tobacco, hogs, soybeans.
  Industry: Transportation equipment, textiles, food processing, printing, electric equipment, chemicals.
  
  Notes: Virginia’s gross state product was 6.6 billion. The per capita personal income was ,477 in 2004.
  In 2006 and 2007, Forbes Magazine voted Virginia as having the [ best climate for business] in the United States citing economic growth, business costs/incentives and quality of life. CNBC ranked Virginia as the top state for business in 2007 as well.
  Richmond is one of 12 cities in the country having a Federal Reserve bank. It, along with the New York and San Francisco Federal Reserve banks are the only ones that cover a non-state (Washington, D.C.).
  There are seven Fortune 500 companies headquartered in Northern Virginia, and nine in the Richmond area (most of which are within the city itself.) Only five metro areas in the country have more Fortune 500 companies than the Richmond area. Virginia, arguably the wealthiest southern state before the Civil War, recovered from the Civil War and the Great Depression much faster than the rest of the South. Today, Virginia is still one of the wealthiest states in the South.
  The state’s biotechnology industry is not centralized, but growing, highlighted by the building of the Virginia BioTechnology Research Park biotech incubator in Richmond and the opening of the Howard Hughes Medical Institute’s Janelia Farm in Northern Virginia.
  
  Virginia’s nanotechnology industry, centered in Hampton Roads and Northern Virginia, accounted for billion in manufactured goods in 2006. Researchers in Hampton Roads, many of whom hold patents in the field, believe the region has an advantage in the commercialization of nanotechnology due to the amount of research, much of it spearheaded by NASA’s Langley Research Center
  Virginians provide a vast array of services and manufactured goods to customers throughout the world. Our manufacturing base continues to be strong, producing everything from steel beams, wood flooring and trucks to semiconductors, robots and rocket engines. As the birthplace of the Internet and one of the leading centers of software development, Virginia’s high-technology economy continues to expand. And as one of four U.S. states currently licensed and capable of launching communications satellites and other commercial payloads into space, Virginia has all the right assets to continue our economic leadership throughout the 21st century.
  
  Fast Fact
  
  AeA, the nation’s largest trade association representing all segments of the high-tech industry, has ranked Virginia as the national leader for its concentration of high-tech workers according to their recent report, Cyberstates 2007: A Complete State-by-State Overview of the High-Technology Industry.
  
  More than 11,500 high-tech companies operate in Virginia.
  Nearly 60 firms with annual revenue over 0 million are headquartered in Virginia.
  Virginia is headquarters to 29 Fortune 1000 firms.
  More than 770 foreign-affiliated firms are located in the Commonwealth.
  Virginia ranks third among the 50 states as a recipient of federal R&D funds.
  Virginia ranks 10th in terms of venture capital deals and 11th for total venture dollars invested.
  Virginia ranks among the top 10 states best adapting to recent changes in the U.S. economy, according to “The 2007 State New Economy Index” published by the Information Technology and Innovation Foundation and the Ewing Marion Kauffman Foundation.
  Virginia exported .1 billion of merchandise in 2006.
  Among top 25 industries invirginia are Cigarettes, Ship building and repair, commercial printing, paper and paper boards, automobile parts, plastic products, plumbing products, pharmaceuticals and medicine, Organic fibres, automobiles and light trucks, brewaries, pachaging material, semi conductor devices, navigation instruments, tires, saw mills, wooden furnitures/ doors/ windows, poer bioler and heat exchanger, heavy duty trucks, ready-mix concrete.
  Virginia has or plans industrial clusters in the following areas:
  Aerospace
  Automotive
  Biosciences
  Distribution
  Electronics
  Financial Services
  Food Processing
  Motorsports
  Plastics
QUESTION:
can part of a commercial property be sold and retain the rest ???
I have a commercial property that
is one building, however it consists of two seperate retail spaces.

My question is could I sell one of the stores and lease out the other one ? it only has one pin number, but it has two seperate gas meters and also seperate light meters.seperate front and back entrances, the only common usage is the water.
- ANSWER:
  Yes, with the permission of your local zoning board you can convert your single building into two properties, similar to converting your two stores to condominiums, or cooperative retail space.
  
  Presently, the common usage is the water, but after conversion the common areas will be many such as the roof, foundation, exterior walls just to name a few. You will want both owners to pay regularly for upkeep and maintenance, and there will need to be an adequate reserve fund in case repairs are necessary.
  
  You must seek a commercial real estate attorney’s advice on this. He can help you decide on the type of ownership that is best for you. If you convert your building, a separate entity, a Condo or Coop Association, is created to define and safeguard the legal rights of both owners. Large office buildings “go coop or condo”, but usually the cost of converting is too expensive for converting one building into only 2 stores.
  
  Your attorney may suggest less expensive alternatives. He will go over the benefits you receive and problems you take on by splitting the ownership. And help you answer the question of what happens when you decide to sell the property to which you are keeping title.
  
  Perhaps a long term lease is a better idea and makes more financial sense. Another idea is to take on a partner in ownership who will have certain financial responsibilities in exchange for a share of the ownership. You can also sell the entire property, and lease back the one store you want with the right to sublet it.
QUESTION:
how does one get into the iron working trade?

so can someone answer my question?
- ANSWER:
  Trade apprenticeship programs provide the unique opportunity to learn a trade while earning a decent wage. These programs also benefit people who cannot take time off to attend school due to financial obligations. Union trade apprenticeship programs combine classroom training with on-the-job experience. Graduates of such programs have received top-notch training in their respective trades or industries. For those who cannot attend school or who prefer to learn in environments other than the classroom, trade apprenticeship programs may be the way to a new career.
  
  Ironworkers
  Ironworkers are skilled construction workers who set up the foundation for large-scale construction projects such as skyscrapers, bridges and highways. Ironworkers develop projects to the exact specifications of federal, state and local building codes. The craft requires that you have no fear of heights and are able to work in a team. In addition, the work is physically demanding and requires agility and good balance. Only those in above-average physical shape need apply.
  
  Ironworker apprentices must be at least 18 years, have a high school diploma or equivalency and be alcohol- and drug-free. Apprenticeships typically last three or four years.
  
  Growth in the field is projected at 12 percent in the years between 2008 and 2018 by the Bureau of Labor Statistics (BLS). The BLS also pegs average hourly wages at .68, as of May 2008.
  
  International Association of Bridge, Structural, Ornamental, and Reinforcing Iron Workers
  
  1750 New York Avenue NW Suite 400
  
  Washington, DC 20006
  
  202-383-4800
  
  ironworkers.org
  
  Sheet Metal Worker
  Sheet metal workers craft and manipulate various kinds of sheet metal. This can be a manufacturing profession or a construction profession, depending on the job. The Sheet Metal Workers International Association operates more than 170 Joint Apprenticeship Training Committees throughout the United States and Canada. The union estimates that its members generally earn about twice what the average construction worker earns. In fact, a union apprenticeship in sheet metal work is an excellent way to get into management, with more than 80 percent of all contractors and shop owners having started their careers as SMWIA apprentices. Apprenticeships generally require between four and five years to complete.
  
  The field of sheet metal workers is expected to grow in the years between 2008 and 2018 by 6 percent, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. The BLS estimates average hourly wages for sheet metal workers at .37, as of May 2008.
  
  Sheet Metal Worker International Association
  
  1750 New York Ave., NW, 6th floor
  
  Washington, DC 20006
  
  202-783-5880
  
  smwia.org
  
  Electrician
  The electrician’s union, the International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers (IBEW), offers a number of trade apprenticeships. Inside electricians work on the power systems within a single commercial or industrial structure. Outside electricians maintain the nation’s electrical distribution and transmission grid. Residential electricians perform many of the same functions as inside electricians. Installer technicians work with low-voltage systems such as communications and security.
  
  IBEW apprentices must be at least 18 years of age with a high school diploma or equivalency and have had at least one year of algebra. Apprentices must also be able to pass a qualifying exam and a drug screening. Apprenticeship lengths vary depending on the trade selected.
  
  The field is expected to grow by 12 percent in the years between 2008 and 2018, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. The BLS also projects average hourly wages at .32, as of May 2008.
  
  International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers
  
  900 7th St., NW
  
  Washington, DC 20001-4089
  
  202-833-7000‎
  
  ibew.org
  
  HVAC Repair Schoolswww.TradeSchooling.com
  
  Read more: Trade Apprenticeship Programs | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/list_6711200_trade-apprenticeship-programs.html#ixzz1Zqtp0xwv
QUESTION:
i want to switch job fm sales to Operations.for it,i ve to go through a interview process by HR. how to handle
if HR puts a question on why i want to switch from sales to operations,what answer,i can give to him to satisfy. any ideas,you want to suggest. but soon,my interview is pretty soon.thanks,
- ANSWER:
  We’re changing the scientific protocols and procedures to make indoor air not just pleasant, but to safely remove from our indoor environment many dangerous and harmful substances.
  You already know that Fresh Air by EcoQuest is the only air purification system endorsed by and approved by The Space Foundation as is used in NASA space vehicles and space stations. Here’s some things you may not know:
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   Highly technical, delicate equipment in Iraq was being damaged by the baby-powder fine dust that could not be kept out of work areas at a military facility there. The cramped living and working quarters of the military members contributed to odors, transmission of communicable illnesses, breathing challenges. After installation of 10 Fresh Air units, the entire facility as well as the well-being of the personnel changed dramatically for the good.
   Lamar University Museum contained priceless, irreplaceable artifacts when Hurricane Rita struck. Every professional estimator was adamant that most of the artifacts were mold infested and a total loss. The costs for repair and restoration of remaining artifacts and displays was astronomical. Our top commercial/industrial experts used our equipment and not one artifact or display was lost, the entire building was safely remediated at a fraction of the cost bid by other companies using older technologies.
   Schools, restaurants, courthouses, bars, hospitals, and residential customers (millions of them) rate our technology from 93 to 98% satisfactory… and no wonder!
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  For your use, this means your home smells clean and fresh…. Those 10,000 bacteria on your keyboard are reduced 99.9999% so only 1 remains. Those airborne and exposed molds are killed and the gasses emitted by them swept from the air. Pet dander swept out of the air, dust and dustmites swept away, pollens swept away. You breathe more freely when the air is clean. But you can rest more easily knowing you have taken the best steps you can to ensure a healthier indoor environment for you and your family and guests!
  
  Thank you,
  www.ecoquestintl.com/farny product and opportunity
QUESTION:
I have a buckled 12″ foundation wall 4′ high, I think 9″ wide. Wall moved 4″ maybe more. What cause this and?
what are repair options?
- ANSWER:
  I recently had to deal with a similar situation on a commercial building. The double brick wall was about 12′ high about 1/2 buried in the earth (on the outside) and was buckled just above the frost line probably due to water and freezing that put pressure on a wall that was not designed for it. It was also about 4″ out. Ours was a non-bearing foundation wall to the extent that the roof was on perpendicular walls.
  
  Removing and rebuilding the wall was not an option. The wall was on the property line and there was some construction on the other side including the only acess to other property.
  
  If you are not experienced with this work you should not attempt it without an engineer’s assistance. If removing the wall was an option, you would support the wall above at appropriate points and then dig down and remove and replace the wall. I have done this where I had to build a foundation under a building that did not have one. You may not have to go down to the foundation or you may have to rebuild or replace the foundation.
  
  In this case we carefully dug for a 24″ footing inside and built a new 8″ block wall (about 6″ inside the outer wall.) That new wall was reinforced with durawall and re bar and poured solid. Then the gap between the walls was poured and reinforced with re bar.
  
  Our original brick wall makes very poor foundation walls especially over this height. It may have been an mistaken afterthought to backfill 1/2 the wall. The new 10″ to 14″ of reinforced masonry inside should easily take the frost pressure but it was a fairly labor intensive operation.
QUESTION:
What can the little guy do?
You can tell who has the power in a civilization buy looking for the most elaborate buildings. The government in Roman times, many examples still exist ie the coloseum. The Roman Catholic Church in the middle ages ie many gothic churches speread throughout europe. In our present day it is the corporations, as our public buildings crumble corporations like the oil industry and pharmacutical companies record record profits. these corporations are owned by shareholders and are therefore profit driven.No profits = angry shareholders. Unfortunately this system is money driven and morals are generally not considered. How do we engineer a paradigm shift?
- ANSWER:
  Vartan Gregorian, an academician of many titles, two of which were a former president of Brown University and a president of the Carnegie Corporation of New York, a granting foundation, once said while being interviewed by the journalist Bill Moyers that “there ‘are’ no little people.”
  
  Correct and absolute!
  
  The shift that you speak of is happening even while we speak, but sluggard is it indeed, and I share your views and feelings 100%. Snippets of change ‘are’ occuring, though; sometimes are they short upheavals but in comparatively small regions geographically or commercial sectors of political economy. For now they may appear to occur as ad hoc events, apparently unconnected to us such that many of our common perceptions overlook the deeper, greater undertows. But as one looks more closely, however, one may connect events and disclose definite patterns and discover a portent of things to come that bodes poorly for the “big guy,” but by which we, the “little guys” are affected first.
  
  The spikes in occurrences among the wealthy, for example, are measures of an increasing indication of fear, not readily evident to the lay persons or relative to any given sector of commerce or industry that lay people depend on, but rather fear in the power brokers themselves, whose fear signals should at once prompt each of us to wink out our mental tape measures and begin making an accounting. Our indenture to the norms, to leisure — comparative gratuities to what the poor third-world people could enjoy, however, causes many to fixate upon their immediate circumstances before first zooming out wide and seeing the great charade wefting and warping beneath the economies upheld by the one-percentile, greed-smitten jack asses in power.
  
  The moment a mass of people ‘feel’ and perceive things to be amiss, as quickly do certain forces shift into action for which a vortex immediately takes hold that triggers events. Things raze, they grow volatile as a staging for the new. We see one pattern in that of the housing sector of the United States and thereto, the building sector: an entire mult-billion-dollar corporation has fallen at Wall Street and not few in these same sectors are to be brought before the courts to answer for their deceit. We observe the spike in fuel prices and thus the steep downward curve in the shipment and logistical industry and thereto again as result, the soaring consumer price indices. Among the powerful, this expresses a peacock pride yet is truly but great theater before the fall.
  
  But the pains at first undergoing among the few, then the many do precede the inevitable sought-for aim. Rest assured, martyrs we do not need today — such is passe, and rather quite immature, sophomoric. Such was tried and succeeded-at in the 1960’s and 70’s and to good avail. But no longer is this viable. The less we do en masse, the less harm we confront in our respective lives and the less we have to do to repair great damage, but rather is it the inertia from many events that prompts adjustment by its own volition, which is to say, given the inertia, the bounty and groan of imbalances will cause inevitable falls of great institutes in all cases — sooner or later — increasingly sooner than later, however. Simply watch, observe, act with tactical clarity, bide your patience above all — but do do where propriety accords your doing. For feeling and perceiving can be thought active things as well: they are seeds well-planted.
  
  The more we work upon ourselves each, the more we will unravel the congestions that en masse have added up to the critical mass that prompt us to ask and then wish to act at the outset of feeling the wrong in these others. This does not speak to passivity but rather impassivity, which is to say, herewith we put focus energy on what we can do most and carry most constructively, which takes us to ourselves first and wherein we are constrained to work with what we rate — that which exists within our respective compasses.
  
  This whole dynamism is a slow-going thing for the most part; but there will be nodes along the lines of actions whereupon certain radical occurrences commence, which are the open windows, the opportunities to slip in and effect change — great change. Again, the paradigm shift is happening even while we speak — with the current presidential campaigning occurring in the United States as testament to this.
  
  Yet this must occur deliberatively if verily, else things would implode and wreak havoc upon vast areas of social underpinnings. I am as appalled as any and like to think I am as radical as any. But — things take time. But peer in closely and one will see that things are happening quicker than ever. The old assumptions are falling away. In the United States, for example again, — who would’ve thought we’d see a woman or scaling black man running for President; this, after some 230 years of just one ilk and pattern.
  
  The paradigm shift is in our midst.
QUESTION:
3-D Printers or Mass Production in space.?
Hello,
I recently entered a contest on innovation for space products, by the Spirits of Innovation of Conrad Foundation. I was wondering about mass production in space and have a question how a 3-D printer will work in Zero Gravity environment. There printers who “Grow” their parts using additive form. What would be some constraints of a 3-D printer in space and/or mass production?Thank you we will be more than glad to mention you in our submission form if we use your idea.
- ANSWER:
  Made in Space has tested a 3-D extrusion-based printer in zero-gravity with successful results (Summer 2011), and is scheduled to do sub-orbital testing in 2012 as part of NASA’s Flight Opportunities Program.
  
  Made in Space, Inc. has been selected for a NASA Small Business Innovation Research (SBIR) contract to develop in-space 3D manufacturing capability for the International Space Station. No terms have been released, but NASA says that SBIR agreements are typically funded for six months at amounts of up to 5,000.
  
  The 3D system, called the Additive Manufacturing Facility, “will allow for immediate repair of essential components, upgrades of existing hardware, installation of new hardware that is manufactured, and the manufacturing capability to support commercial interests. Additive manufacturing is the process of building a part layer-by-layer, with an efficient use of the material. The process leads to a reduction in cost, mass, labor and production time,” according to Made in Space’s proposal.
  
  As part of this proposal, Made in Space, Inc., combined with the mission experience of Arkyd Astronautics, Inc. and NanoRacks, LLC, will develop an Additive Manufacturing Facility for the ISS that will enable on-board manufacturing capability. The crew would be able to utilize the Additive Manufacturing Facility (AMF) to perform station maintenance, build tools, and repair sections of the station in case of an emergency.
QUESTION:
Claim denied by Insurance?
Had Builder’s Risk Insurance, this insurance is for construction of residential house, the foundation wall collapsed during 3rd day, the foundation wall was not build as per plan, i had to sue builder, architect and surveyor. my insurance company denied the calim. i though they will pay to repair or rebuild and then recover or sue my builder. they also denied to pay me rent even though i had loss of use of property coverage. any way i can collect the claim to rebuild, repair foundation wall or rent i pay till the wall is fixed.
- ANSWER:
  A builders risk endorsement on a policy is for theft of building materials, only. If the house was to be done in about 6 months, you could have purchased a regular homeowners policy (if it was intended to be your primary home) and added the endorsement. Faulty construction is NEVER covered by any property policy. It is an exclusion in the policy. You have to contact the commercial policy, hopefully you obtained certificates of GL & WC from the contractors (ALL of them working on the house) so you know who the insurance company is. It is also possible they deny coverage for faulty workmanship because a GL generally is for accidental damage (for example – a piece of construction equipment catches on fire & burns down your half done house, or a ladder falls & breaks your brand new custom window). You cannot collect loss of use on a house that is not built yet. You are not living in it, therefore not using it. You would have to pay rent if the collapse didn’t happen. There is no loss of use to cover.
  NO construction I know takes the exact amount of time stated by the contractor and I am sure there is a clause in the contract you signed that has to do with this. Things happen, weather happens, emergencies happen with other customers of the contractors. If you are only 3 days behind now, consider yourself lucky.
QUESTION:
Explain the importance of the Roman Roads,bridges,and the construction of these structures. how was this done?
please answer easy 10 points
- ANSWER:
  The Romans, for military, commercial and political reasons, became adept at constructing roads, which they called ‘viae’ (plural of singular via). It means “to go” with the sense of transporting in a vehicle. Viae were always intended primarily as carriage roads, the means of carrying material from one location to another.
  
  The Roman roads were essential for the growth of their empire, by enabling them to move armies speedily and by sustaining land transport for Roman mercantilism. A proverb says that “all roads lead to Rome”. Roman roads were designed that way to hinder provinces organising resistance against the Empire. At its peak, the Roman road system spanned 53,000 miles and contained about 372 links.
  
  Roman roads vary from simple corduroy roads to paved roads using deep roadbeds of tamped rubble as an underlying layer to ensure that they kept dry, as the water would flow out from between the stones and fragments of rubble, instead of becoming mud in clay soils.
  
  Prepared viae began in history as the streets of Rome. The laws of the Twelve Tables, dated to approximately 450 BC, specify that a road shall be 8 feet wide where straight and 16 where curved. The tables command Romans to build roads and give wayfarers the right to pass over private land where the road is in disrepair. Building roads that would not need frequent repair therefore became an ideological objective.
  *********************************************************
  Roman Bridges: The Roman architect Vitruvius tells us that in order to lay the foundations and supporting pillars the Romans would construct water tight vessels, rather like barrels. These were made of wood bound by metal. In order to provide water resistance the barrels could be lined with pitch or clay. By lowering these into the river it was then possible to divert the water from the place of work in order to dig down to build foundations. The foundations could be lain directly onto hard rock if it was found or onto wooden piles driven deep into the river bed. This last solution is relatively durable as is demonstrated by the result achieved with Venice! The wet mud and the lack of oxygen prevents the action of the bacteria which would in other cases destroy the wood.
  
  Once the foundations had been laid the bottom portion of the pillar could be built within the “barrel” and from there brought up to
QUESTION:
How to be a commercial property landlord?
Ok, so I have two rental properties (single family homes) and thought about venturing into the apartment options. I found a 5 unit apartment complex that is above a retail space (approx 3700 square feet or retail space). I figure I could break even on payments if the 5 units were rented, so the biggie would be getting the retail space rented. I’ve never leased a retail space. What are the pitfalls, and what should I know about going down this road? I guess I’m more worried about insurance issues and hidden expenses that a novice wouldn’t think about until the bills came. Any resources, books, tapes, etc. that would help out? I think I don’t know enough about this to know what questions to ask and that should be a reason to RUN from this opportunity, but maybe after getting this knowledge, I’d be better equipped to make a decision in the future. Any help from commercial real estate landlords is very appreciated. Thank you so much!!!
- ANSWER:
  As landlord of a commercial property, you’re faced with a challenging task, but it can be a profitable task, if done correctly. If you own an office building, retail strip, hotel, restaurant space or warehouse, you may want to save the fee paid to a property management company and manage the building yourself. There are many details to consider, but once you understand the basics, you’ll have a good foundation from which to run your commercial property.
  
  Instructions
  
  Calculate the rent per square foot for your building. Look at ads for space in your area, and visit these properties to compare them to your own. Call listing agents to ask for the average price of similar buildings. Review current leases to determine if they are at market value.
  
  Add the triple net (NNN) and common area maintenance (CAM) fees to the cost of the lease. NNN is an additional expense where the tenants pay their portion of the property taxes, insurance and CAM, such as elevators, hallways and parking lots. CAM is calculated by dividing the tenant’s space by the total amount of leased space available.
  
  Prepare a lease agreement, with the help of a real estate attorney. Your contract should include details such as cost per square foot, total rent, term (length) of the lease, NNN and CAM, who is responsible for which repairs, who pays for any remodeling before move-in and the percent of rent increases per year — if any.
  
  Advertise any vacancies that you have in your property. If you know that a tenant will be moving out at the end of the lease, advertise for new lessees 12 months before the expiration. Placing a professionally made sign in front, and an ad in the local newspaper, should yield inquiries. Also, advertise on websites, such as LeaseMLS, to reach a wider market (see “Resources”). In addition, mail flayers to tenants in buildings around yours. They may want to move, once their lease expires.
  
  Require that all companies interested in leasing space complete an application. Review these carefully, and check the credit and background of each business, along with the principals of the company, using a service such as Abika (see “Resources”).
  
  Meet with the new tenant to sign the lease agreement. Ask for a personal guarantee from the tenant, which consists of a form that allows the landlord to collect from the tenant’s personal assets if the business is unable to pay the lease.
  
  Use rental management software, such as Rent Is Easy, to keep track of rent payments, lease expiration, expenses and deposits (see “Resources”), especially if you have many spaces in your building.
  
  Keep the lines of communication open with your tenants. Ask them if there’s anything they need from you. Not hearing from tenants doesn’t mean that they’re content. You may be able to retain more lessees by regularly touching base.
QUESTION:
WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST USE OF THIS CONDEMNED PROPERTY?
I need to figure it what is the best option. Its an old home built in 1936, now its commercially zoned. its about 3100 sq ft on a half acre with a small guest house in the backyard about 500 sq ft. To remove the condemned status I need to repair the roof, brick walls, and foundation. Including the interior repairs it will cost about K to fix up. The half acre of land is appraised at k and the building is appraised at K. The appraisal company said it would be worth 5K after repairs. Would it be best to sell it as-is, lease with option to purchase, or it would cost about K to demolish
- ANSWER:
  You did not say what the purchase price was to acquire the property. This is an important element in determining the exit strategy on buying an investment property.
  
  Your return on your investment is determined in the cost of the property and your exit strategy.
  
  You also have to take in consideration the hold time in which you will sell the property.
  
  So to answer your question there is a lot more information needed.
  
  Can you realize more of a profit selling the land as a commercial piece of property, after paying the ,000 for the demolishing, or perhaps you do not have to do any demolishing at all? Is your profit more after repairing the property and paying the repairs of ,000? Then don’t forget to take in consideration the hold time involved and perhaps additional expenses that you might incur.
  
  I hope this has been of some use to you, good luck.
  
  “FIGHT ON”
QUESTION:
Landlord shall “keep and maintain”…?
My commercial lease states that Landlord shall keep and maintain the roof (including the structural integrity thereof), foundation, and the exterior walls of the building in which the premises are located in good repair, provided that the Landlord shall not be required to make any such repairs occasioned by the act of negligence of Tenants, it’s agents, employees, invitees, licensees or contractors.

Bearing the above paragraph in mind, have 2 questions about this…

1. When I started my Tenant Improvements, my space was just a shell. The floor was dirt. I paid to have the slab poured. My Landlord reimbursed me from my “Tenant Improvement Allowance.” I asked my neighboring tenant if they had the slab pourback taken from their allowance. They said no. Should this have been taken from my tenant allowance?

2. I paid the Landlord’s roofing company 00 for “flashing out” 2 holes which were cut in the roof for HVAC & Plumbing ventilation. Was this my responsibility to pay?
- ANSWER:
  Just because the landlord must keep and maintain the roof and foundation in good repair, the contract will specify who is responsible to pay to build the roof, and pour the foundation. The clause you reference in your lease only says that once the roof and foundation are finished, the landlord would be responsible for maintaining them in good repair, unless damaged by negligence.
  
  1. To answer your question regarding your tenant improvement allowance, and appropriate payouts, you should find the clause in your contract regarding the allowance. Whatever the contract says is what you agreed to when you signed the lease. If other capital improvements come out of your tenant improvement allowance, maybe pouring the foundation is your responsibility also.
  
  2. The roof needed flashing to finish the installation job of the HVAC & Plumbing ventilation. If you were responsible for installation, then adding the flashing around the holes would be your responsiblity, even if the landlord’s roofing company completed the job. (Probably the plumbing contractors were not licensed to do the flashing, only cut the holes. Therefore, roofers were needed to finish the job).
  
  The neighboring tenant may have a different lease than you do. Leases are negotiable. While the leases may be similar, there is no reason to assume they are exactly the same.
QUESTION:
Uninsured Mason hiding behind Uninsured Builder – NJ?
Foundation wall collapsed on 3rd day, builder denied it was his fault, lied, misdirected and pulled all the fast ones including committing fraud. Builder only has carpentry insurance instead of “GC” insurance as required by Law for he demolishes and constructs houses, during deposition it was discovered the Mason is uninsured. my contract was with builder so i cannot sue the mason. as per Builder’s review other 5 or so home owners reviewed him as Robber. which dept. can initiate legal action against builder and the mason I GUESS IT MAY NOT BE ILLEGAL TO DO BUSINESS WITH out ANY INSURANCE LIKE MASON ?
complain was filed with consumer affairs, BBB in fact refused to log the complain since my complain was the 1st one, builder’s structural engineer is also unlicnese and unregistered by consu. affairs and even after proof consu. affaris did not intiate any legal action, the proof is as clear as it can be. i think crime pays and innocent home owners get roobed
- ANSWER:
  Any remodeling, altering, painting, repairing, renovating, restoring, moving, demolishing, or modernizing of a residential structure is considered home improvement work in New Jersey. New Jersey requires: “Since January 1, 2006, anyone who makes or sells home improvements with respect to residential properties in the State of New Jersey must be registered with the Division of Consumer Affairs unless specifically exempted under the statute and may not obtain a construction permit unless registered.
  
  Every registered contractor must:
  
  *maintain commercial general liability insurance in a minimum amount of 0,000.00 per occurrence
  
  *display the registration number in the place of business, in all advertisements, in all business documents including contracts and on all commercial vehicles
  
  *put home improvement contracts with a purchase price exceeding 0.00 in writing containing all terms and conditions of the contract including: price; a description of the work to be done; materials to be used; and the dates or time period within which the work will be begun and completed. The contract must be signed by all parties.
  
  *provide a copy of the certificate of commercial general liability insurance with the contract
  
  *comply with all other requirements of the statute and regulations accessible at www.njconsumeraffairs.gov/contractors/hcrules.htm ”
  
  You can file suit against the mason and the builder and you can also file a complaint with the New Jersey Division of Consumer Affairs–against the mason because he is probably unlicensed & uninsured and against the builder for hiring unlicensed and uninsured subcontractors. You can contact the NJ Division of Consumer Affairs at: askconsumeraffairs@lps.state.nj.us.
  
  In terms of the insurance, it is entirely normal to write a policy using the classification of General Carpentry including general remodeling of the home for General Contractors. The only issue would be if the insurance had a different classification or a limited classification endorsement which would restrict coverage to only specifically disclosed trades. Regardless of this the main issue is that Commercial General Liability Insurance would not cover defective construction nor does it provide any type of construction warranty–it only provides coverage for the resulting damage, i.e. if the contractor builds a deck with a defect and it results in a collapse causing damage to the house and injury to a person/s, the insurance would pay for the repair to the house and for the bodily injury. The insurance would not pay for replacement of the deck itself since it was defective due to the contractors incorrect installation.
  
  I suggest you file the complaint/s and also seek legal counsel to file suit and recover payment of your damages and resulting damages for the delays.
  
  I hope this helps. Good Luck!
QUESTION:
Random sounds in the house?
Has anyone ever noticed little noises in your house or apartment, as if someone else is in the house with you? when the television stand makes this weird crack sound..sometimes my closet makes this loud crack sound too..why does this happen…this has nothing to do with ghost..This is the only way I can explain it..so if anyone can explain why this happens
I live in an apartment..also during the summer times..we always hear this loud sound like the apartment building is moaning..almost like the sound of a rocking boat. lol
- ANSWER:
  # Temperature changes cause houses to moan, shift, and creak. Desert climates have the widest temperature swings between day and night, but even temperate climates have seasonal changes that can cause your house to shift slightly. And when a couple of floorboards rub against each other and echo in an attic, the noise can sound like someone in agony.
  
  # Settling houses make snaps, thuds, creaks, and groans. If your house is new, it may be settling. A hastily-poured foundation, or one poured at the wrong time of year, can produce outrageous noises for years after the house has been built.
  
  There are other reasons why a house can “settle.” If you’ve had an earthquake in your region, your house may now be settling back into place. If you’ve had unusually high rainfall, or a drought, the ground around your house will shift. A piano or waterbed moved in or out of a room can cause the whole house to readjust itself.
  
  # Critters in the walls or attic can sound bizarre. The scurrying noises alone can sound like little ghostly footsteps. A bushy tail of a squirrel or raccoon, rubbing on all sides of a narrow passageway inside a wall or alongside a chimney… Well, you’ll be convinced that a ghostly woman in a full Victorian skirt just passed you.
  
  If two animals decide to argue or chat within your walls, in your basement, or overhead in your attic, sometimes they sound like ghostly whispers, or a full-fledged argument in a strange dialect!
  
  # Check for even smaller critters, such as wood ants or termites. If they’re weakening the house’s structure, the house will moan and groan as it shifts its weight.
  
  # Is there construction going on near you? Perhaps rocks tumble from their recently-blasted niches, at a certain hour of the night when the temperature dips low enough to cause contractions and shifts. The roof of a new house can make astonishing noises, especially at night. Ask anyone who’s put a roof on a house, or repaired one, about the nails that pop out overnight.
  
  # If it happens at the same time every night, it’s not necessarily a ghostly hour. Temperatures and humidity change at night. When these natural effects reach a “critical mass” level, the house may shift. A loose shingle may pop up again. The mortar in your chimney may contract just enough to cause dust to echo as it tumbles to the ground or hearth. These kinds of things happen night after night. It’s part of the natural cycle of a house.
  
  This “critical mass” effect is usually at approximately the same time, each night. Seasonal changes and unseasonable variations can shift the hour back or forward, but it’s still within the same approximate time period.
  
  # Do you live near a commercial area? You may live far enough from a shopping center that you don’t hear the garbage collectors’ trucks. However, when they lift one of those huge containers of trash and empty it into the truck… wow! If that noise echoes off a neighbor’s siding or cement wall, it can seem as if something is crashing on your patio, or in an another room, particularly if the windows are open.
QUESTION:
Rental Business: Cracks and Age of Building – Good Reasons to Walk Away?
Hi,
I viewed a Plex that was built in 1880!
it has a few horizontal cracks on exterior wall that was painted (maybe to hide damage!?) so not clear how wide the cracks are etc.
Is it even worth a home inspection assuming everything else is fine – great rent, great price, condition etc..
OR are the above alone good reasons not to buy and save the inspection?

Also, a couple more questions on this topic, related to risk:

– Isn’t it a big risk that it will be impossible to sell such an old property in the future? that it may take 3-5 years to sell a 130 yrs old Plex??

– What are some of the signs that 100 yrs old house (or 150 yrs old) is near the end of its life? meaning structure or anything else will shortly be beyond repair resulting in a need to demolish it or get an outstanding order from the city to do so?

THANKS.
- ANSWER:
  Okay, NO house built in the 1880s is going to still have an excellent foundation. Most buyers of “historic” buildings are aware that they’re going to have some issues due to age. What you want to find out is if it’s in acceptable shape *for its age.*
  
  Inspections don’t cost much, so if you really like the building just get it done. As for resale, commercial properties take longer than houses to sell in general. In the housing market, a listing is considered “aged” if it’s been listed for 6 months or more. With commercial buildings the expected typical time for a listing is much more flexible. A property that’s been listed for a year or two (or even more if it’s a really unique property, like a historical apartment building) won’t necessarily be viewed negatively. Plenty of investors buy a property then list it again before long at the price they WANT to sell it for, and just wait however long it takes for someone to be interested in buying the property at that price.
  
  I honestly couldn’t give you guidelines on when an old building should just be torn down because I’m not an engineer. You need a professional’s opinion on this. I would suggest trying to find an inspector who is well-versed in older buildings, and to also talk to perhaps a structural engineer that he/she trusts. You don’t want to buy a money pit, of course, but sometimes the charm and interest of an older building outweighs its inevitable need for restoration.
QUESTION:
Drywall Seams are Buckling/bulging?
I purchased a home that is about 5 years old. Prior to moving into the house, there were no unknown problems with the drywall.

Fast forward about 15 months, and now some of the seams in the drywall on the ceiling are bulging outward into the room. This is happening on both the top floor and the main floor, with the top floor being the worst.

I do not believe the problem is due to a foundation issue. I have found no significant cracks in the foundation either from the interior or after a walk around the exterior. The bulges in the drywall are also 90 degrees to the trusses on the 2nd floor (I would expect a foundation issue would break the drywall parallel to the trusses in the weak area…not sure though, never had a foundation issue).

I was thinking that the builder might have just done a crappy job of fastening the drywall and taping (or lack of tape) the joints.

Anyone have any ideas why this might be happening and/or any ideas on how to fix it?
All the drywall with issue are in the ceiling.

I’ve done some work in the attic putting ceiling fans in and I did not notice any moisture issues up there. When I was working it was summer…perhaps I should poke my head up there again (besides, I left my wife’s good broom up there)

I’m not sure if there is moisture between the ceiling of the first floor….I’m not seeing any sort of water damage, but I know that isn’t a good indicator.
- ANSWER:
  There could be a number of resons. First, there could a problem with humidity in the building. Expansion can be a direct result of high humidity. The house may have venting problems, i.e., not enough attic ventilation. Lack of ventilation can cause moisture (humidity) buildup, and if it can’t get out–LOOK OUT. The contractor may also have put poly sheeting on the ceiling. Many areas of the country mandate this, but I have seen a couple of instances where trapped moisture between the poly and drywall can cause buckling, and even sagging of hte drywall. Moisture and humidity can also cause, with no real solution in mind, an unusual amount of expansion in the wooden framing of the house, and cause this buckling in some joints of the house. I have that problem, and I repair it nearly every year. To avoid this problem in apartment / commercial buildings, professional drywallers use metal ‘expansion joints’. These metal joints allow the drywall to expand and ‘creep’, without causing the ugly buckling and damage to the joints it can cause. (the butt or raw seams, mostly) . This problem is always prevelent in LOOOOONG hallways, thus the need for these expansion joints.
  The only thing else I could suggest is to contact a REPUTABLE drywaller (ask around, especially at lumber yards), and for a REPUTABLE building contractor. Without taking a long hard look at your dwelling, this is all the info I can give…..
QUESTION:
I am finishing my basement and putting in a drop ceiling. I need some help…?
This is one of the new “low-profile” ones that hangs only 1 1/8″ below the joists. The main drain PVC pipes all run together at one point next to the foundation (poured, not block) wall. There is about a 5-6′ section wide that all hangs about 4-5″ below the joist and sticks out 4-5″ from the wall. Question is, how do I go about putting the drop ceiling around this mess? Do I build a “case” for it and block it all in with nice cedar stained wood? I need some suggestions please!
The other factor is that the main drain pipe runs from the ceiling to the floor. I like the cabinet idea though. With these being solid walls instead of block, I can just drill and screw right into it without the worry of blowing out the back of the block correct?
- ANSWER:
  I would not build the cabinet or what ever he was trying to describe , If your wall are drywall use drywall type x (fire rated) and when you frame out for the plumbing make it big enough for an access panel (12″x12″ or 16″x16″) in case repairs to the plumbing need to be done and after the drywall is finished properly if can be painted the same color as tile so it is not notised as much. If you have a professional grid man doing the work, Grin. He can actually build a soffit out of the grid material and put the tile in it so it all matches, description of this would be exhausting but it can be done, ive done it for my customers esp. in basements. Find a commercial ceiling grid guy and he should be able to do it if you so choose. ps- it takes rivets and special tile retaining clips for it to work, i say this so you dont get bullshitted by ceiling guy.
  Good luck and let me know how it turned out.

commercial building foundation repair

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