Typical Cost Of Foundation Repairs

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   How much can repairing a concrete crack in a pool (1/4 inch thick, up the whole side) typically cost?
   There is a sizable crack in a pool at a home I am considering purchasing. It runs almost the entire depth of the pool up unto the concrete ledge. I am sure it can not just be patched. I have heard the structure must be stabilized. I am trying to determine what the typical cost of this report would be?

   • ANSWER:
     I worked on a pool crew for the past couple of summers. Most of teh repairs I saw were not that bad and ended up costing at least 5,000. If there is that much of a crack then there will need to be intensive digging just to get to the problem, then you have to fix the foundation. Then you need to fill the hole then you need to worry about actually fixxing the pool. Like mentioned this could easily cost 20,000 and take weeks to fix.

2. QUESTION:
   What can be done for a house foundation which is settling unevenly?
   The foundation of my house seems to be settling unevenly. The garage area is sinking faster than the rest of the house, and it is starting to cause cracks in the walls. What can be done to stop or reverse this before it gets too bad? The house is about 40 years old.

   • ANSWER:
     Call a foundation expert to assess the problem and recommend repairs. You can’t do this yourself.

     There is a new process called hydro-jacking which may be an option for you as an alternative to having new piers placed under the slab. Hydraulic cement is injected in strategic locations under the slab to level out low spots, is less labor-intensive than trenching around the foundation and can be done for a fraction of what a typical repair job will cost. Ask the contractor who comes to see you about this.

     Once the foundation repair is complete you may have to address water problems that caused the slab to sink in the first place. Gutters/downspouts, french drains, etc. are cheap insurance.

3. QUESTION:
   My double wide has settled lately and the front door is difficult to open?
   I also noticed that one of the Vertical seems covered with molding separately slightly. Also on the ceiling I can see areas that although not cracked or broken you can see where thee are seems underneath that seem to be about a foot wide that go cross ways(not long ways) over the trailer. Is this in need of leveling or is it just giving due to normal settling. I have my house for sale and this suddenly came up. What is the cost of a double wide to be leveled if needed>?

   • ANSWER:
     All homes settle, but due to how most mobile homes are set up on their foundations, they tend to be more prone to movement. What you’ve failed to tell us, is the foundation type, how long your home has been sitting where it is at, and whether you noticed the problems after some severe weather or not.

     I used to charge about 0 to 0 to level a home, whether it was a single or double wide – you go through the same set up and process for either, and a double wide only takes a few minutes longer in most cases. Hehehe… I’ve some homes that were over 2 inches out of level.

     This is something that most homeowners could do themselves.

     I made my own water level, with a custom rig, to make set-ups faster, but any water level will do the trick. A typical water level will be accurate to within 1/8″ over 100feet. We started by setting up the level to a reference point, and then I’d crawl around the support columns measuring the offset from level. By charting them, you can easily see where the home has settled, and where the frame may be flexed over a support column.
     A standard cylinder jack and some blocks are needed to raise the home where it is low.. I used a 12 ton jack most of the time. Once the frame is raised, adjust the shims, and move on to the next, checking each adjustment with the water level as you go.

     The key things to remember when working with a water level:
     Don’t change your reference point.
     Don’t let the volume of water change in the level (Don’t spill or add water).

     A pair of us could easily re-level a double wide home in less than 2 hours from start to finish – for someone who’s never done it before, plan on a little longer.

     Now – re-leveling a home will not make the seams disappear in the ceiling – the texture and/or seam has flexed/expanded and will stay that way, until repaired. The sticking doors/windows will probably be corrected by leveling the home. I could most likely walk through your home and tell you where it is out of level, hehe. Loose trim is a pretty common problem, and easily corrected with a pin nailer. These are all ‘cosmetic’ repairs – meaning there is nothing wrong structurally, they just need to be tweaked a bit. Anyone familiar with warranty work in the manufactured home industry could do all of this work for you in short order. I’d recommend contacting a local dealership to see who does their warranty service. If necessary, you can hire one crew to re-level, and another for the cosmetics. We handled it all in our service package, something not all crews can do.

     By the way, once the home is re-leveled, you need to check the anchors, and tighten them as needed.

     Good Luck

4. QUESTION:
   Can a proper home(roof) inspection be done when the roof is covered with snow?
   Does the exterior of the roof have to be thoroughly inspected as well to verify the actual condition of the roof, or will an interior inspection be sufficient? If it’s not possible to inspect the exterior because of the snow on the roof, then what can the buyer do to ensure that he is buying a house which has a good roof? How can the buyer’s interest be protected when buying a home in the winter?

   • ANSWER:
     The exterior roof inspection is a relatively small part of the overall home inspection. The inspection contract will generally say the inspection will only cover what is visible. If you want to make sure the exterior of the roof is inspected, you can arrange to have the snow cleaned off. But the inspector can tell a lot about the roof by inspecting it from the inside. Some inspectors will clean off enough snow to at least inspect parts of the outside. Most won’t.

     The most important things to get inspected before buying a house usually aren’t, because the inspection would cost more. If it’s a slab foundation with no basement, it’s very important to get the plumbing inspected extensively. That’s because plumbing work can be very costly with a slab foundation. A typical inspection only tests the functionality of the plumbing, but not the actual condition of the pipes under the slab, nor the condition of the sewer line. Compared to those, a roof is relatively cheap to repair. Something that typically happens with moderately old houses on slab foundations is that tree roots grow into the sewer line, causing frequent sewer backups. The only permanent way to fix that is to replace the sewer line with a more modern one. Otherwise you have to get rid of the tree roots on an ongoing basis, year after year. Replacing the sewer line requires breaking the foundation slab with a jackhammer. But if the roof leaks, you usually only have to replace some shingles.

     The important point of all this is to be aware of the risks and costs. The inspection costs money and helps reduce your risks. But you will still have risks. And each risk can be measured by how likely an incident is to happen, combined with how much it would cost if it did happen. So don’t just inspect what seems obvious. Analyze the risks and find the most cost effective way to minimize them, with a very sophisticated inspection that takes such risks and costs into account.

5. QUESTION:
   what can i doo about creaky floors throughout my house? seems excessive dryness would cause this?
   my basement is very dry and the mortar in the old foundation is even dry and deteriorating and will need attention soon.

   • ANSWER:
     nope nope and nope…. having a dry basement will not cause your floor to squeak.

     Ive repaired, literally, hundreds of floor squeaks. So, I am very surprised to see a “certified home inspector” suggesting that you just screw another piece of wood from underneath the floor. If you are dead set on just sticking another piece of wood underneath your subfloor… use construction adhesive! Glue the length of wood to the floor joist, and pre-glue the top of it, so that it adheres to the subflooring. This lasts much longer than just screwing a stick of wood to the underside.

     Ok…. here are some typical causes of floor squeaks….

     The subfloor has seperated from the floor joist. This often happens if the subfloor was nailed or stapled in place. The nail or staple backs out a bit, letting the subfloor actually pop up just a bit… then, when you step on it…. it squeaks as it rubs the nail or staple.

     The floor joist itself, is damaged. Sometimes you get a floor joist that has split, and will often make a noise as the two sections rub against each other…. this sounds more like a ‘creak’ tho, than a squeak.

     If you have an older home, with slat flooring, instead of plywood subfloor, then the slats, may have warped, so that they are rubbing against each other. Or, you could have a raised nail, as in the first example.

     Ive seen talcum powder recommended often as a ‘simple fix’ for this type of problem. If you have a LOT (as in the ‘whole floor, everywhere you step’) of squeaks with this type of floor, I seriously recommend stripping the surface cover off, and repair the wood from above.

     I’ll take a moment here, to mention one more type of floor noise, for those who have mobile homes…. the lag bolt holding the steel frame to the floor joists can often come loose. Tighten the lag bolt, and it will eliminate this type of floor noise.

     For homes with plywood subfloors, I recommend using a product called SquakEnder… this is a bracket that is specifically designed to eliminate floor noises. And it is MUCH more effective than simply screwing a piece of wood to the underside of your floor. Here is the link to their web page… on it, you will find several models of the product, that will help with various problems….. they are easy to install, and very cost effective (the Squeak Ender runs about ). You can find them in the flooring department of Lowes, and other building supply stores…even some hardware stores carry them.

     These things WORK.

     http://www.squeakender.com/html/squeak.html
     http://www.squeakender.com/

     Have Fun!

6. QUESTION:
   I am buying a house of what things should be alert?
   I am buying a 465 000 house I want to know some things that I must know from my agent or things that i should expect i dont want ot get rip off in other words I want to be alert.

   • ANSWER:
     Things you should know before buying a house.

     Look for a developer first. Whether you find one through referrals or through your own research, investigate a developer’s reputation carefully:

     1. Visit other projects (especially older projects) that the same developer built.
     2. Look for durability of construction.
     3. Talk to homeowners in these developments and in the one you’re considering.
     4. Find out how well the builder responds to complaints and follows up on repairs. Some developers have a person or department right on site to handle repairs.
     5. Talk to authorities.
     6. Contact the Better Business Bureau, the state’s regulatory agency for builders, and the county courthouse. Find out if there have been any complaints, disciplinary actions or lawsuits against the builder.
     7. Talk to vendors.
     8. Contact suppliers, subcontractors and lenders. Find out if the builder pays bills on time.
     9. Approve the Location
     10. Evaluate the location, just as you would for a resale home. New-home communities are often built on the developing edge of a metropolitan area, so make sure that a freeway isn’t planned to come through in 20 years. Check with the local zoning and/or planning department and look at their master development plan (if they have one) for any future development activity that might affect you.

     TIP: Heavy demand and short supply drive up prices in booming areas. If you’re buying in a rapid-growth area, try not to overpay for a new home. The market will inevitably correct itself and may leave you with a house that’s worth less than what you paid for it.

     11. Negotiate Your Purchase
     Most new-home developers want you to use their sales agents to purchase a home in the project, rather than bringing in your own representative, and most contracts favor builders. For example, a typical contract may not provide escrow funds to handle repairs after closing. In theory, the sales price, contract terms, upgrades and options are all negotiable. In reality, most builders would rather give upgrades to avoid lowering the price, which lowers the comparative market value of other homes in the development.

     Before you sign the purchase contract, find out exactly what the price includes in addition to the house, such as window coverings or landscaping. Ask about quality. Are the carpets, light fixtures, doors and windows you saw in the model the same grade that you will get in your home? Make sure your purchase agreement includes an itemized list of finishing details and who pays for them, which both you and the builder should sign.

     TIP: Plan for delays. Don’t leave your present home until you’re certain when you can occupy your new home. The builder may be willing to pay the cost of an interim rental or hotel room if construction is delayed.

     12. Inspect Construction
     When you buy a home before it’s built, you can follow its construction from foundation to roof. Consider doing three inspections:

     1. When the foundation is poured

     2. When the framing is up but not yet covered.

     3. When construction is complete.

     Not all builders will agree to this condition (even though you pay for inspections), but if you can negotiate it into your contract, it gives you one way to exercise some quality control. If you buy the house before it’s completed, use the final walk-through to make a list (called a “punch list”) of finishing details that the builder still needs to complete. Have the builder sign a copy of the punch list.

     Other inspection tips:

     Make sure that your right to an inspection is covered in the purchase agreement.
     Ask for copies of any previous inspection reports, including the soils report, so your inspector can review them.
     Get copies of any blueprints, construction documents or surveys so your inspector can review them.
     Understand your builder’s warranty policy. A typical 10-year warranty covers structural defects for 10 years, as well as construction materials and defects for the first year and major mechanical systems for the second.

7. QUESTION:
   within the next yr i plan on moving into my first place can any of you give me any tips?
   Next year will be my last semeter of college and hopfeully i can get a job. I do plan on moving out of my parents house and live on my own for the first time. can anyone give me any tips on how to make this move successful and what things i should avoid so i wont end up livin with my parents again

   • ANSWER:
     Make sure you live within your paycheck and you will never have to depend on parents again.

     If you are going to rent:

     *Before you write a check for an application fee or a deposit on an apartment, ask about the length of the lease, the amount of rent, and the amount of deposit.

     *Make sure the lease specifies that water service is included, or that it is billed at the prevailing rate in the community.

     *Never sign an apartment lease on the spot. Take it home with you and read it. If you don’t understand something, put question marks next to the item and get an explanation.

     *If you pay a deposit or an application fee for an apartment and decide not to rent the apartment, you probably will lose the money.

     *Always add a clause to an apartment lease giving you the right to terminate the contract before its normal expiration if your circumstances change.

     *Many leases renew automatically unless you notify the landlord that you are leaving.

     *Make sure to be present for the move-in inspection, and note everything you can find wrong with the apartment.

     *Be present for the move-out inspection, too.

     More tips check out the link:

     http://fullsailmortrentaproperty.blogspot.com/

     If you are going to buy then things to be careful of:

     In most states, home sellers must disclose any defect they know about that could affect how desirable — and marketable — their home is before they sign a purchase contract. Even in the six states that lack a “mandatory seller’s property condition disclosure” (Alabama, Arkansas, Kansas, Vermont, West Virginia and Wyoming), the state’s licensing agency may require real estate agents to tell buyers what they know. In all states, real estate agents who belong to the National Association of Realtors are obligated by their code of ethics to disclose any defects they know about.

     But you may have fallen in love with a house, and spent hours preparing a purchase contract, before the disclosures are made. You should always make your purchase contract contingent on a professional home inspection (0 to 0). Home inspectors could miss hidden problems, however, such as a basement that floods during a downpour.

     Poor water pressure. Aside from issues of comfort and convenience, low water flow may indicate plumbing problems, such as corroded pipes that will need to be replaced down the road. Tearing out old plumbing and replacing it with copper pipes can run ,000 to ,000 or more in a typical 1,500-square-foot home. A less costly alternative is cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) piping, which unlike rigid copper piping, is flexible and easier to install (approved for potable use in all U.S. model plumbing and mechanical codes, but may not be approved in local building codes).

     Among tests you can do: Run water in a bathroom sink and check for weak flow. Flush the toilet while the water is running. Does the faucet flow drop off during the flush? In the bathroom located farthest from the water heater, turn on the hot water. Is there an unduly long delay before the water turns hot?

     Ceiling stains. Something’s leaking. If the stain appears beneath a bathroom, odds are the shower is leaking. It may merely need recaulking or regrouting, but it could also require ripping out tile and replacing the shower pan, a much more costly process (about ,500). Most roof leaks result from neglected flashing that seals “valleys” in the roof or around a chimney or vents (cost to repair: 0 to 0). But roof leaks may also mean it’s time to replace shingles — at 0 to 0 per 100 square feet for asphalt shingles and 0 to ,000 for wood shingles.

     Troublesome doors. Are the doors hard to close? Do they swing open by themselves or fail to open fully? If you have one bad door, it may simply have been installed incorrectly. But more than one may indicate a serious structural issue, such as a foundation that has settled or framing that is deteriorating. Fixing this problem can require structural and geotechnical engineering reports and thousands of dollars in repairs.

     Overloaded electrical outlets or lots of extension cords. Today’s electrical demands may exceed the capacity of homes built as little as a decade ago, says Kuhn. You’ll spend to 0 to have an electrician add a 120-volt outlet to an existing circuit. Or, if the electrical system is very outdated, it may require a new electric panel. A new, 100-amp panel will cost ,500 to ,500.

     More warning tips at the link below:

     http://fullsailmort7redflags.blogspot.com/

8. QUESTION:
   Cost of a house remodel?
   I know this is a ridiculous question to most people because the cost varies SO much depending on what you put into it, but I also know cost varies from location to location… and I’ve searched the internet finding people in the city saying they’ve paid a quarter million dollars remodeling their house. THAT sounds ridiculous to me?? So, here’s my situation…

   My husband and I are looking at a house for sale in a rural area of West Michigan (where house prices have plummeted). It’s on 8 acres of land with two huge beautiful barns in good shape. The house, however, needs A LOT of work such as…

   – A new septic system
   – All new plumbing
   – All new wiring
   – A new roof (trusses and all, as the roof is about to collapse)
   – A new furnace

   That’s only counting the repairs it needs to make it livable. That’s not counting what we WANT to do to make the space even remotely nice. The layout is absolutely horrible. We would want to knock down walls and create a new layout all together. This would include two new bathrooms AND a kitchen. I’m not looking for anything super fancy and expensive such as a 50K kitchen remodel with granite countertops and such. We were actually considering buying cabinets off craigslist that have been taken out of someone’s house. We’ve seen whole kitchens (cabinets, appliances, faucets, etc) for 00 or less. We also plan to do much of the work ourselves. We have talked to a family friend of ours who is a builder who is saying although it does need a lot of work, he doesn’t believe it would be more than 50K for a complete remodel. I shouldn’t be questioning a builder, but is this NORMAL price? If you live out in the country and have done a complete remodel on a house, how much did you pay all together? And also, do you believe this is worth it? I believe just the barns and land is worth 50K; I’m not sure whether the headache of remodeling is though. Help me out?

   I might also add that the house is 1900 square feet, not counting the basement. The basement is block, but it’s not your typical Michigan dirt basement that’s found in homes of this age. And we were told that the foundation is good despite the structural problems with the roof.

   • ANSWER:
     K sounds like a great price, for all of the work you are doing. I used to live in Grand Rapids, and costs are very comparable to where I live now (Madison, WI). To be honest, I give you credit. If I saw a house that needed that much work, I’d run, not walk away. With the price of materials, especially copper, going through the roof, it sounds like a fiar price. Good luck.

9. QUESTION:
   Rental home with insufficient heating…?
   My rental home has a “heat pump” which will not work in temperatures under 40 degrees. Instead, I must use emergency heat if it gets too cold. Additionally, I cannot get the temp in my house over 65 without running the emergency heat when it is over 40 degrees (but under 60)….

   And to make matters worse the foundation is under repair at this time and the house is raised on stilts… leaving 2 feet of airspace under the whole house.

   Now my heating bill is 3x the typical bill for this time last year. The energy bill is almost as much as the rent. My landlord just told me that his bill was high and he has a heat pump too and that’s mother nature… we have to deal with it. He will not send a technician to check the efficiency of this unit. I cannot afford to purchase a more sufficient system for this home.

   In order to keep the house at a livable temperature of 65 degrees, we have to use excessive amounts of energy and its costing us the same amount as the rent we pay. Can we deduct this extra cost from our rent? We rent in Texas.

   • ANSWER:

10. QUESTION:
    Typical rates for underground leak detection service & water line maps filed by builder?
    Hi Answers crew. I want to get an idea of the average cost/hourly rate of underground water pipe leak detection services, location would be the N.W. part of country (Western WA.) for a fairly straight forward residential property with no more than 40 feet of line to be located and checked.

    If I choose to not have it professionally located I am wondering if the builder of this development/house would have had to file a water line map with the city or county planning office back in 1977? If I have a map I can then dig dig dig and attempt to locate the leak and then repair.

    • ANSWER:
      There’s a company called “American Leak Detection” that is franchised throughout the United States. The employees are well trained professionals whose sole purpose is to do exactly what you are looking for. They detect leaks. They don’t fix them, so no conficlt of interest here–they find them and then go on their merry way.

      Most homeowners are a little shocked at their fees, but they are extremely thorough and stand behind their investigation with a written garauntee. The last two people I knew of that used them were charged 5 and 0. They check not only the building structure of a property, but also all water lines whether marked by the city or a builder, or not. In our two neighbor’s homes, they were charged by the property site size and the time spent there was in the hours. Even though the property owners were asked to be in attendance as the leak detection was being done, the jobs were followed up with written reports and diagrams of where the leaks were found.

      I hope this helps. I’m sure that other good companies are out there. Check with foundation repair companies for other referals since they often include leak detection as a before and after service along with foundation repairs and could advise you of reputable services. Good luck

11. QUESTION:
    Rental Business: Cracks and Age of Building – Good Reasons to Walk Away?
    Hi,
    I viewed a Plex that was built in 1880!
    it has a few horizontal cracks on exterior wall that was painted (maybe to hide damage!?) so not clear how wide the cracks are etc.
    Is it even worth a home inspection assuming everything else is fine – great rent, great price, condition etc..
    OR are the above alone good reasons not to buy and save the inspection?

    Also, a couple more questions on this topic, related to risk:

    – Isn’t it a big risk that it will be impossible to sell such an old property in the future? that it may take 3-5 years to sell a 130 yrs old Plex??

    – What are some of the signs that 100 yrs old house (or 150 yrs old) is near the end of its life? meaning structure or anything else will shortly be beyond repair resulting in a need to demolish it or get an outstanding order from the city to do so?

    THANKS.

    • ANSWER:
      Okay, NO house built in the 1880s is going to still have an excellent foundation. Most buyers of “historic” buildings are aware that they’re going to have some issues due to age. What you want to find out is if it’s in acceptable shape *for its age.*

      Inspections don’t cost much, so if you really like the building just get it done. As for resale, commercial properties take longer than houses to sell in general. In the housing market, a listing is considered “aged” if it’s been listed for 6 months or more. With commercial buildings the expected typical time for a listing is much more flexible. A property that’s been listed for a year or two (or even more if it’s a really unique property, like a historical apartment building) won’t necessarily be viewed negatively. Plenty of investors buy a property then list it again before long at the price they WANT to sell it for, and just wait however long it takes for someone to be interested in buying the property at that price.

      I honestly couldn’t give you guidelines on when an old building should just be torn down because I’m not an engineer. You need a professional’s opinion on this. I would suggest trying to find an inspector who is well-versed in older buildings, and to also talk to perhaps a structural engineer that he/she trusts. You don’t want to buy a money pit, of course, but sometimes the charm and interest of an older building outweighs its inevitable need for restoration.

12. QUESTION:
    Are the water and sewage pipes installed to the Code?
    In my split-level house there are 25 feet of pipes running under tiled floor to the kitchen. They were laid 1-2 feet deep in the concrete foundation, covered with gravel, then poured with concrete and tiled over. A really barbarian job. Now to replace them I need to jack-hummer the floor (and I don’t have matching tiles to cove it up after).
    Q: is it possible that the building code allowed for such “installation”? I am sure it is a violation, so is there an option to for me to have it corrected w/o paying the whole cost of remodeling? I live in Montgomery county MD, and the house is 30 years old.
    Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      What you have described is typical slab-on-grade installation. Usually the pipes in the trench are covered with sand then the slab is poured over the whole thing.

      Why are you sure it is a violation, because it is inconvenient to make repairs? That has no bearing on construction. The house was constructed this way because it is simpler and less expensive to build.

13. QUESTION:
    Buying a house.. I NEED advice!?
    I am in the process of purchasing a home that in 2005 sold for 1,500, now its a foreclosure and they accepted my offer at ,000 (cash). The people who lived there were real creepy and screwed the house up ( had 5 dogs ) and the house has an animal odor, I planned on spending ,000 to re model the house which needs carpet ripped out ( i want to replace with wood ) paint in every room, carpet in the 3 bedrooms and new kitchen cabinets.. Does this sound like a good idea to do or does it seem like to much?!
    Yes, does it seem like ,000 in work is to much? The reason I am questioning my family thinks its a horrible idea like a “big waste” but I think its a great investment.
    Oh and do you think ,000 is enough.. haha

    • ANSWER:
      Since you say that the house was really messed up by the former owners, I would not close the deal before having an inspector examine it thoroughly, to make sure the only repairs you need to to in the house are purely cosmetic.

      Home inspectors have the expertise to look for and find problems in places you wouldn’t even think of looking. Roofing, plumbing, heating, electricity, foundation drainage and structural integrity, moisture and mold issues, termites, etc…

      In 2005, houses were unrealistically overpriced as the market was then more stable than it is now, so it might sound like a good deal when you compare what they paid and what you are going to pay, but what you should be looking at is, how much could you sell it for right now, if it were in tip top shape.

      My bet is, you wouldn’t get that 1,500 for it.

      Now assuming you’ve done your homework, got an inspector and he says that all the house needs is new cabinets, flooring and a coat of painting. You might be able to get things done with ,000 if you are willing to tackle some of the work yourself and if you do not chose high end finishes.

      The kitchen cabinets will be probably the most expensive repair. Consider resurfacing them instead. New veneers and knobs, new doors or even a coat of paint over the old ones can update the look of the cabinets.

      Hardwood floor can also get pretty expensive, but you can shop around for savaged wood floors, or try laminates, bamboo or cork.

      I am adding the link to Remodeling Magazine’s Cost vs. Value report, which will tell you how much typical remodeling jobs cost in each US state and how much money they add to the property value.

      The national average for a minor kitchen remodeling on that report is around $ 21,000 and you will be recovering about 79% of that cost.

14. QUESTION:
    What is the material use to make a water bed?
    What is this material? DO you have a link/website i can go to? the material should be durable right?

    • ANSWER:
      Construction
      Waterbeds primarily consist of two types, hard-sided beds and soft-sided beds.

      A hard-sided waterbed consists of a water-containing mattress inside a rectangular frame of wood resting on a plywood deck which sit on a platform. Platforms may incorporate drawer systems for storage. Frames may be decorative, with elaborate headboards or tall posts.

      A soft-sided waterbed consists of a water-containing mattress inside of a rectangular frame of sturdy foam, zippered inside of a fabric casing, which sits on a platform. The effect is to look like a conventional bed and is designed to fit into existing bedroom furniture. The platform usually looks like a conventional foundation or box spring, and sits atop a stronger than normal metal frame.

      Early waterbed mattresses and many inexpensive modern mattresses have only one water chamber. These mattresses are commonly described in the industry as “free flow” mattresses. When disturbed significant wave-action could be felt. They needed some time to stabilize after a disturbance. Later types employed wave-reducing methods, including fiber batting and interconnected water chambers. More expensive “waveless” modern waterbeds have a mixture of air and water chambers, usually interconnected.

      Water beds are normally heated. Temperature is controlled via a thermostat and set to personal preference, but is most commonly average skin temperature, 86 degrees Fahrenheit. A typical heating pad consumes 150–400 watts of power. Depending on insulation, bedding, temperature, use and other things, electricity usage may vary significantly. The annual electricity cost may be USD 100–500. Average UK cost in 2003 was £43.80 per annum for a waterbed heater’s electricity usage.

      Waterbeds are usually constructed from vinyl or similar material. They can be repaired with nearly any vinyl repair kit.

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